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  1. #41
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  2. #42
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    A little front end work

  3. #43
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Its coming together. Have you been keeping track what what cost what? I think itd be cool to see how much it costs to build one over buy one. I mean your pretty much rebuilding it with newer upgraded parts. Very smart.

    Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    Its coming together. Have you been keeping track what what cost what? I think itd be cool to see how much it costs to build one over buy one. I mean your pretty much rebuilding it with newer upgraded parts. Very smart.

    Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
    Good point. I will do that. I'm guessing $350-400 including the SW4. That combo, the body, and the wheel/tire combo were a big chunk.
    But the beauty of the hobby is resale. I have a lot of parts from the old Slash on Ebay. Probably get back $150ish from all that itemized. Throw out the not so good stuff. Clean up and sell the usable parts.

  5. #45
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott P View Post
    Good point. I will do that. I'm guessing $350-400 including the SW4. That combo, the body, and the wheel/tire combo were a big chunk.
    But the beauty of the hobby is resale. I have a lot of parts from the old Slash on Ebay. Probably get back $150ish from all that itemized. Throw out the not so good stuff. Clean up and sell the usable parts.
    I wish I would've done it to begin with. I can see what ive bought and spent on amain and Amazon and also ebay I think. If i took the time to do so, i could probably make a list.

    Also yes, that's a wicked good idea. Buy new parts with old unused parts.

    Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk

  6. #46
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    Mounted the Hitec 625MG. I can't believe this servo was turning that old steering assembly. Everything was bound up with bent screws and pins.
    Picked up am aluminum servo arm from the LHS. The old clunky unit was too big for the LCG chassis.
    The arm I bought had four mounting holes. Longer servo arms do not work with this chassis. I had to dremel off the top hole. Not my best work but it's functional.



    Couldn't find any options locally for this ugly servo linkage. I bought a piece of aluminum tubing to dress it up a little.




    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-25-2020 at 02:02 AM. Reason: merge

  7. #47
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott P View Post
    Couldn't find any options locally for this ugly servo linkage. I bought a piece of aluminum tubing to dress it up a little.


    Oh hey, thats a good idea. Itll save the threads too. Not that ive ever ruined threads but you never know.

    Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk

  8. #48
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    I've always liked RPM products, but this build has really given me a new appreciation for them. They leave the lower section of the front bulkhead hollow for the option to fill with something to give it weight. I opted for JB weld steel stick. Easy to form in those small spaces.




    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    Oh hey, thats a good idea. Itll save the threads too. Not that ive ever ruined threads but you never know.

    Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
    Thanks! Definitely cleans it up a little, and adds protection
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-25-2020 at 02:02 AM. Reason: merge

  9. #49
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    aluminum tube was a good idea, another nifty one is heat shrink tubing

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by REAP3R View Post
    aluminum tube was a good idea, another nifty one is heat shrink tubing
    I like that
    Great option for black.

    Mocking up the rear suspension. Picked up a piece of 1/8"x 1/2" aluminum flat bar at the Home Depot. This will locate the top shock mount directly above the a-arm shock mount. Those are the front GTR's in the picture. I was thinking they would give me the ride height I'm looking for, but not so much. With the 3's battery in, and a motor set in the back the rear wasn't rebounding much.
    I'm thinking the rear shocks will ultimately work if I install a spacer over the shock shaft inside the shock body. That'll restrict shock length along with making the rear suspension stiff.
    BUT...that's going to be the trial and error part. I don't want it to be so stiff that it becomes a pivot point under power and the truck wheelies out. I also don't want it soft enough to where the butt end scrapes under power due to the low stance.
    Either way I'm just happy the flat bar mounting lined up after drilling holes lol! Now I need to drill shock mount holes, and machine the ends down.


    This is the stance I would like to see



    Front body mounts are too narrow for where I want the fenders to sit above the axles. Now I know why some of these body pictures didn't look quite right. Adjustable needs to be up and down, and left to right. I either need to make a 3/4" square bracket to widen the body mounts, or come up with some sort of plastic flat bar for a velcro under body attachment.
    I'm going to work on the under body mounts to avoid black front posts sticking through red body fenders.
    I did find longer cap screws for the rear upper shock mount. Should have that cut and done tomorrow.





    Shock tower mount is done. That was a super easy fabrication in my mind. Wrong!
    I need more tools in my shop to make those things easier. Either way it's done other than a coat of flat black paint.
    Next step is to nail down stance for inner shock spacer (to reduce travel) measurements. Home depot sells nylon sleeves in different lengths and widths. Hoping to get lucky with pre cut sizes. If not I have leftover aluminum tubing to use. The springs will be compressed too much to use anything that isn't rigid.
    Another thing on the list is to grind down the ribs and screw holes on the chassis for esc, and rx box mounting. I'm not using traxxas electronics so those holes don't mean anything.









    Haven't had too much time to work on the car lately. I did get the Deans plug installed on the SW4. Had to bust out my old soldering iron. And when I say old, I mean old lol







    Got the chassis ground down for the rx, and esc mounting. A quick mockup of placement

    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-25-2020 at 02:03 AM. Reason: merge

  11. #51
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    Hope you have some long motor leads, I had to flip my ESC the opposite way to get everything to have length to attach.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by REAP3R View Post
    Hope you have some long motor leads, I had to flip my ESC the opposite way to get everything to have length to attach.
    Castle gives a nice length of wire off the motor with this SW4. I'd have too much wire if I turned the ESC the other way.

    Getting the inner shock shaft spacers (limiters) marked for cut using aluminum tubing. I marked off 1mm extra in length. I'll cut that mark, then grind down to measurement. This will allow me to make L and R equal for both front and rear. I'm good with a little tolerance in overall length, but it's very important both left and right spacers are the same length.




    Springs finally arrived! They are slightly shorter than the factory GTR spring which is good. Definitely need thicker shock oil.

    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-27-2020 at 01:42 AM. Reason: merge

  13. #53
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Nice Tri-County body!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Nice Tri-County body!
    Thanks! It's a bit challenging to mount. Finally had a chance to work on it a bit today. Back mount holes are drilled. Now I need to work on the front.

  15. #55
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    The build continues...
    The car is pretty much together. I messed up a few times along the way. The most recent was when I noticed I mounted the rear RPM body mount backward. Oops! I noticed it when I went to put the old slash body on for a test run. Just after I drilled the rear mount holes in the Tri County body #&%$!! Oh well.
    Speaking of test run- the tires don't hook up too well. Like it's a drift car. Maybe they'll get more grip as they break in?? I bought a diff locker spool. Hopefully that helps with hook up.


    I ditched the Integy front steering parts for RPM plastic. The slop between the parts was ridiculous. I get things can use some shims here and there, but this was way too much both ways. RPM fit is perfect.

    Side note on the RPM stuff that I probably should've singled out in it's own thread. These parts are strong because they are soft. There is a lot of give in the plastic for a reason. That being said- take care when driving screws in. Don't go super fast to create a lot of heat with friction. Most importantly, don't overtighten. You'll never feel that super snug feeling with a screw like you do with hard plastic. Again, for a reason. RPM parts can take a ton of abuse!



    Everything installed


  16. #56
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    Locker installed

  17. #57
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    New gear set. Traxxas spur gear- 76. Pinion by Robinson Racing- 28


    Widened the front body mounts. I didn't take too much time on these as you can see. Used a couple of dividers from a plastic parts container. Functional but not attractive. I might wrap them with a sticker or something but I'm not too worried about it.
    Those front GTR shocks are midgets now lol





    Body is painted. Final window coat is drying. It's getting close!

  18. #58
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    I wish I wouldn't have test ran it before complete. The tires looked so good new lol
    Also glad I got pics before first run.
    Good news is it's fast. Like I didn't get to full throttle fast.
    Bad news is the suspension is a bit too stiff. Got a little bumpy on a speed run and flipped it multiple times down the road. It's used now haha!
    Also snapped my homemade right front body mount.
    After a few more runs with this set up I think it'll be time to convert it to a full suspension travel off road basher.
    Last edited by Scott P; Yesterday at 11:04 PM.

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