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  1. #1
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    New xmaxx wheel bearing seals popping off...

    Just got my first xmaxx yesterday. I watched every youtube video out there and everyone says "man this thing is big" but I was still shocked when I pulled it out of the box... man this thing is big.

    Anyway, went out this morning with my son and drove it around a soccer/baseball field. We found a little "lip" between a patch of the baseball gravel and grass to "jump". Only got about 10" of air at best but still had a ton of fun.

    Rolled it 2-3 times, honestly they were gentle rolls on the grass only rolling maybe one full rotation before stopping. Not even a scratch to the body. Here was the worst crash of the day by far (we watch a lot of Kevin Talbot):



    When I got home I realized that the inner metal seals on the passenger side bearings (front and rear) had popped off and were flopping around on the axle. The sandy baseball gravel had gotten into the now exposed bearings. I have found a few threads on this problem but no firm solutions.

    I cleaned and lubed the bearings and tried to put the seals back in but they don't spin freely anymore, there is some resistance (not grit, just feels stiff, probably rubbing on the bent seal).

    Just seems like a silly problem for such an otherwise stout truck.
    Will the $35 fast eddy bearing kit keep this from happening again? Are there other bearings that would be better?

  2. #2
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    Same problem happened to me. I got RPM Hubs and a bearing kit from XmaxxStore including the RPM sized bearings. No problems since.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Can remove the binding seal-and turn bearings
    around so exposed side is in the inner hub
    RPM is the ticket for the rear
    fabricator

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Domineazy View Post
    Same problem happened to me. I got RPM Hubs and a bearing kit from XmaxxStore including the RPM sized bearings. No problems since.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    Seems like a lot of people recommend the RPM hubs. I'll get a set on order along with that bearing kit from thexmaxxstore.

    Seems like the rubber seals might be better for that application than the metal ones.

    Do you think it is OK to put another battery through the ones I "rebuilt"? It would be a shame to waste the long weekend... I guess the worst that could happen is that they just destroy themselves further? Could it destroy anything else?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXMAXX View Post
    Can remove the binding seal-and turn bearings
    around so exposed side is in the inner hub
    RPM is the ticket for the rear
    ah good idea. I will try that until the new stuff arrives.

  6. #6
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    The bearing may spin in the hub
    after it seizes up
    fabricator

  7. #7
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    As others have said, RPM hubs and bearings for the rear.

    For the front, practically any third-party bearing is better than what traxxas supplies. I'm using Fast Eddy bearings (eBay) and have yet to pop a seal. They still wear out quickly (they get notchy from wear, nothing to do with dirt contamination or loss of lubrication), as this bearing size is inadequate for the job, but the seals stay intact. I suspect either the seal channel in the outer race is deeper, the seal has more material to fit in this channel so it doesn't pop out when you sneeze on it, or a combination of both.

  8. #8
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    Yep, RPM or Pro-Line rear axle carriers are a must. If you do get them, be aware that the bearings do not come packed. You have to grease them yourself. If you skip that step they will fail.

  9. #9
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    RPM hubs are definitely the way to go. I have the same happen to me.

    Stock bearing are not very high quality at all. Best get an updated set for your new truck. A complete set in the UK cost me £30. Fast eddy bearings are meant to be good but to be honest, any uprated bearings will do the trick. Best go for some rubber sealed bearings to help keep out the moisture. I use some marine grease by carlube on my bearings to keep em going a little bit longer. Just don’t pack your bearings with loads of grease as this can cause flat spots on the bearings and with wreck them.

    Hope this helps!

    Hal

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallamnet View Post
    RPM hubs are definitely the way to go. I have the same happen to me.

    Stock bearing are not very high quality at all. Best get an updated set for your new truck. A complete set in the UK cost me £30. Fast eddy bearings are meant to be good but to be honest, any uprated bearings will do the trick. Best go for some rubber sealed bearings to help keep out the moisture. I use some marine grease by carlube on my bearings to keep em going a little bit longer. Just donít pack your bearings with loads of grease as this can cause flat spots on the bearings and with wreck them.

    Hope this helps!

    Hal
    Can you explain what you mean by flat spots? I'm curious about this in the case I choose to use grease rather than oil.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    You can use grease or bearing oil
    Oil will need more maintenance but spin freer

    Never heard of bearing flat spot failure from over lubed bearings
    They get dirty neglected , thrashed and fail
    Every 10 runs or so- a lot of dirt is washed out of the bearings
    fabricator

  12. #12
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    I haven't messed with the bearings at all as far as lubrication. I put 3 in 1 on the RPM bearings when I first got them but that's it lol.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallamnet View Post
    . Just donít pack your bearings with loads of grease as this can cause flat spots on the bearings and with wreck them.

    Hope this helps!

    Hal
    Never heard of this. I've always fully packed my bearings with marine grease. Never had a issue with them. On 1:1 cars and trailers you fully pack the bearings. Or at least I always have..


    To OP. Rpm rear oversized rear hub carriers. Is way to go. Never had a front blow out of my but the inner bearings on front are a pain to remove seals and service.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  14. #14
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    The RPM rear hubs and bearings is the solution.

  15. #15
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    Thanks guys, I have some bearings and RPM hubs on order. Hopefully that fixes it, its super annoying to have to clean the bearings after every run, especially when I'm not abusing it.

  16. #16
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    Yup, 3rd outing with mine, mostly just flat on grass running and today found the bearing seal swinging round the rear drive shaft as you say. Rpm oversized hubs ordered too! Not very good though is it, such an expensive rig and the bearings fail after about an hours run time.

  17. #17
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    You’ll end up being very happy with the RPM rear hub / bearing upgrade. Once I installed, no issues even on very large jumps. I only wish they would make something for the front inner hub bearings, as they are the same size and fail easily also.

  18. #18
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    Just get these for 2$ a piece: https://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bea...-bearings.html

    I'm still on my first set after almost a year, still running strong. So far they've been through jumps, speed runs, water, snow, salt, dust, gravel, grass, etc.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBall View Post
    Just get these for 2$ a piece: https://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bea...-bearings.html

    I'm still on my first set after almost a year, still running strong. So far they've been through jumps, speed runs, water, snow, salt, dust, gravel, grass, etc.
    do those fit stock rear hubs? I just blew mine out today

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechnoGears View Post
    do those fit stock rear hubs? I just blew mine out today
    As far as I know, the spec. are stock size. So they will fit no problem.

    Question for technoGears, just curious why do you think Advid bearings are better than stock?

    Iíve use fast eddies bearings For this application and blew them out right away. Is there something Iím missing.........quality?

    Because it seems to be the physical size of the bearing
    is whats limiting them. They are so thin they seem to not take lateral forces very well.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    As far as I know, the spec. are stock size. So they will fit no problem.

    Question for technoGears, just curious why do you think Advid bearings are better than stock?

    I’ve use fast eddies bearings For this application and blew them out right away. Is there something I’m missing.........quality?

    Because it seems to be the physical size of the bearing
    is whats limiting them. They are so thin they seem to not take lateral forces very well.
    I honestly don't know anything I have had my truck for a week. Today the seal popped off and usually I would clean it and put it back on but it bent cause its metal so that is a no go. More or less I want a nice cheap replacement so I can enjoy this truck as I wait for my rpm rear hubs.

  22. #22
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/VITAVON-CNC...4AAOSw2BFdNwDr

    I just discovered these hubs after ordering my rpm has anyone ever heard of these before?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechnoGears View Post
    do those fit stock rear hubs? I just blew mine out today
    Yes, they do. You can also replace the front one's with these.

    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    As far as I know, the spec. are stock size. So they will fit no problem.

    Question for technoGears, just curious why do you think Advid bearings are better than stock?

    I’ve use fast eddies bearings For this application and blew them out right away. Is there something I’m missing.........quality?

    Because it seems to be the physical size of the bearing
    is whats limiting them. They are so thin they seem to not take lateral forces very well.
    I'm assuming you asked me? Idk why they are better. They are very hard to distinguish when side by side. I'm just going to guess that they are made from stronger materials.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBall View Post
    Yes, they do. You can also replace the front one's with these.



    I'm assuming you asked me? Idk why they are better. They are very hard to distinguish when side by side. I'm just going to guess that they are made from stronger materials.
    My bad, yes question was for you. I hear you, I’m still looking for the perfect bearing. I’ll have to try the Avids.

  25. #25
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    U watch Kevin Talbot? "tumble tumble"

  26. #26
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    Ive never had any problems with my shields falling off also bearings are super cheap so u can just get a package of new ones sometimes I do even bother putting the shields back on anyway

    I would recommend getting RPM hubs for the rear and spray your plastic arms with wd-40 I know this may sound weird but u need things to flex like arms and hubs. if u have metal arms which I would 1000% stay away from because there's no flex and it will kill your bulkheads. other than that leave the xmcxx stock every thing on the truck is very strong

    604Slash4x4
    GoneBashing
    Last edited by 604Slash4x4; 09-12-2020 at 01:13 AM.

  27. #27
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    I highly recommended rpm oversized rear hubs.

    Rpm a arms. No, I do not. I'm on my 3rd warranty replacement for a arm. I have not tried Traxxas hd a arm. It looks much beefier over stock. I have had 2 rpm a arm blow out at the shock pins front and rear. I am heavy basher. As Each stock a arm broke I have replaced with rpm. I am not happy with rpm a arm on xmaxx. All other cars rpm a arm work great, never broken one except on xmaxx.

    I would give Traxxas hd a arm a try over rpm at this point. Only reason I still have rpm lowers is due to free warranty replacements. Yet to have a issue on rpm upper a arms.

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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 604Slash4x4 View Post
    U watch Kevin Talbot? "tumble tumble"
    Yep, my son loves his channel.

    I got the RPM rear hubs and new bearings, easy install.

    Unfortunately about 30 seconds into my first run with the RPM hubs one of my front tires EXPLODED. Big chunk (about 1/4 of the tread) flew off (the sidewalls are still glued to the rim). The foam is fine, and dry. I was going maybe 7/8 ths throttle in a grass field. My batteries were still at 4.18 V per cell.

    Sigh. The mini Maxx seems to be a tank so far, but the xMaxx seems to break something every time i take it out.

    I am going to try the proline MX43s maybe they will be better for my style of driving. Plus, they are not "out of stock" everywhere like the stock tires are.

  29. #29
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    The proline Badlands tires are amazing, they handle anything and are bulletproof.

    Though, watch out they will break everything else down the suspension line. I’ve since switched from Proline Badlands to Duratrax Lockups. A softer and lighter tire, seems to absorb impacts better.

    Though if you’re just doing speed runs and not too much heavy bashing, like big jumps, you’ll be fine with the badlands

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    The proline Badlands tires are amazing, they handle anything and are bulletproof.

    Though, watch out they will break everything else down the suspension line. I’ve since switched from Proline Badlands to Duratrax Lockups. A softer and lighter tire, seems to absorb impacts better.

    Though if you’re just doing speed runs and not too much heavy bashing, like big jumps, you’ll be fine with the badlands
    I second that. I have both the Trenchers and the Badlands, and they are bulletproof. The Badlands are not good for big jumps as you said, cause the rubber is very hard and low profile. The Trenchers are much better for jumps. Atm I use Badlands for power sliding, drifting, etc. Trenchers for everything else.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBall View Post
    I second that. I have both the Trenchers and the Badlands, and they are bulletproof. The Badlands are not good for big jumps as you said, cause the rubber is very hard and low profile. The Trenchers are much better for jumps. Atm I use Badlands for power sliding, drifting, etc. Trenchers for everything else.
    So you think the trenchers are okay for less damage? I haven’t tried them on an X Maxx. Do the seem softer?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    So you think the trenchers are okay for less damage? I havenít tried them on an X Maxx. Do the seem softer?
    Yes. They are much, much softer than Badlands, and since I vent them the air will be knocked out on landings as well. I feel the Trenchers have an undeserved bad reputation, many seem to care only about their weight and ballooning...

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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBall View Post
    Yes. They are much, much softer than Badlands, and since I vent them the air will be knocked out on landings as well. I feel the Trenchers have an undeserved bad reputation, many seem to care only about their weight and ballooning...

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
    Hmmm.....okay, I’ll have to try them. Are they beadlocked like badlands?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    The proline Badlands tires are amazing, they handle anything and are bulletproof.

    Though, watch out they will break everything else down the suspension line. Iíve since switched from Proline Badlands to Duratrax Lockups. A softer and lighter tire, seems to absorb impacts better.

    Though if youíre just doing speed runs and not too much heavy bashing, like big jumps, youíll be fine with the badlands
    Thanks for the heads up. Right now i don't have any heavy bashing spots... mostly just soccer fields. I guess I'll just use the badlands until I find a better bashing spot and maybe get some trenchers or lockups or throw the stock tires back on if i want to get crazy with it.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    Hmmm.....okay, Iíll have to try them. Are they beadlocked like badlands?
    Yes, same wheel.

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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    The proline Badlands tires are amazing, they handle anything and are bulletproof.

    Though, watch out they will break everything else down the suspension line. I’ve since switched from Proline Badlands to Duratrax Lockups. A softer and lighter tire, seems to absorb impacts better.

    Though if you’re just doing speed runs and not too much heavy bashing, like big jumps, you’ll be fine with the badlands

    Are these the Lockups you use? DTXC5501:

    https://www.horizonhobby.com/product.../DTXC5501.html

  37. #37
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    Yes, so far I’m diggin’ them. My son had the them first on his X Maxx, then I got jealous and wanted a set.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by 604Slash4x4 View Post
    U watch Kevin Talbot? "tumble tumble"

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechnoGears View Post
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/VITAVON-CNC...4AAOSw2BFdNwDr

    I just discovered these hubs after ordering my rpm has anyone ever heard of these before?
    I'm wary of aluminum parts on the XMaxx because the stock parts are very well balanced right out of the box. (with a couple of exceptions) If you watch Kevin Talbot's videos where he shows X-Maxx impacts in slow motion, you can see a LOT of deflection in the stock parts which is undoubtedly why our trucks stand up to so much abuse. Adding in rigid suspension pieces that don't allow for that deflection puts a lot more strain on the parts that do. While some Traxxas cars really benefit from some combination of rigid aluminum and bendy RPM parts, the X-Maxx is one of those rare creatures where they nailed it right out of the box. (again, with a couple minor exceptions like the inner hub bearings)

    That said, I'd be curious to see how those hold up with the 3 bearings.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgrant26 View Post
    I'm wary of aluminum parts on the XMaxx because the stock parts are very well balanced right out of the box. (with a couple of exceptions) If you watch Kevin Talbot's videos where he shows X-Maxx impacts in slow motion, you can see a LOT of deflection in the stock parts which is undoubtedly why our trucks stand up to so much abuse. Adding in rigid suspension pieces that don't allow for that deflection puts a lot more strain on the parts that do. While some Traxxas cars really benefit from some combination of rigid aluminum and bendy RPM parts, the X-Maxx is one of those rare creatures where they nailed it right out of the box. (again, with a couple minor exceptions like the inner hub bearings)

    That said, I'd be curious to see how those hold up with the 3 bearings.
    Totally agree with this, I prefer the stock nylon compound overall in mobile parts.

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