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  1. #1
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    Question Spring Cup lost & Oil Leaked out. Options now?

    So while camping this weekend my daughter's 2WD Slash lost a spring cup while running up and down the campground road which was a large gravel road, #4 gravel at that.

    So the shocks are still straight and I've already put the Alum. Caps on about a month ago.

    Since there is oil leaking out is it only because the spring cup is gone or is there something else wrong and does the shock need to be replaced? I'll need shock oil obviously. The parts list says 30W. Is that for all four?

    I figure this is a good opportunity to change the weight to possibly improve her bashing experience. She mainly runs around the yard and the alley. Sometimes in the road in front of our house. Takes it camping with us. She rarely jumps and I think the highest it's been is 1ft.

    Any recommendations on changing weights for the front and rear or should I leave 30wt and try the pre-load spacers?

    Does the brand silicone shock oil matter?

    Thanks and any other advice is helpful

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Where did you find oil spilled on? If the shock body has oil, then it is most likely leaking from the shock cap (which is very unlikely), and you may have to get a new shock body (or screw it on tighter).

    Every shock has a seal that the shaft of the shock passes through (on the bottom of the shock body). My guess is that the seal is worn out, which is causing the leaking. You will need this for a shock rebuild: https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...tra2362/p45156 .

    For shock oil, it really depends on her personal opinion. I like my cars to handle realistically, so I've set the suspension fairly soft.
    It'll bottom out when it jumps higher than a foot or so. I use the stock springs for the rear, and use the springs that came with the LCG kit for the front. Both with no preload spacers. I have 35W TLR shock oil for all 4 shocks. I've also added a metal weight in the front to make it heavier (for more inertia for realisticity) and for crisper steering.

    The brand of shock oil... it matters, but doesn't matter at the same time. Here's what I mean. Different brands oil weight ratings are a bit different, for example, TLR shock oil is 2-3W heavier than Team Associated, so try to stick with a single brand, to prevent the hassle of starting over to test different oil weights. Also, making silicone oil is pretty hard to mess up, so you can't go wrong with shock oil from any brand.

    If you want new shock recommendations, people like GTR shocks, or Proline Powerstrokes. If you don't like the ultra shocks, then stay away from the Big Bore shocks, since they are the exact same, except the Big Bores are made of aluminum. I have changed the shock body to aluminum ones by STRC:



    Hope this helps!
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    Where did you find oil spilled on? If the shock body has oil, then it is most likely leaking from the shock cap (which is very unlikely), and you may have to get a new shock body (or screw it on tighter).
    There is oil from the top cap to the underside of the bottom A-Arm. Granted I didn't notice this till she told me she lost the spring cup. She probably has a total of 4-5 hours runtime on it since she got it 2 months ago.

    Every shock has a seal that the shaft of the shock passes through (on the bottom of the shock body). My guess is that the seal is worn out, which is causing the leaking. You will need this for a shock rebuild: https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...tra2362/p45156 .
    I'll check into that. This hobby is new for me. I'm sure YouTube will show me how

    For shock oil, it really depends on her personal opinion. I like my cars to handle realistically, so I've set the suspension fairly soft.
    It'll bottom out when it jumps higher than a foot or so. I use the stock springs for the rear, and use the springs that came with the LCG kit for the front. Both with no preload spacers. I have 35W TLR shock oil for all 4 shocks. I've also added a metal weight in the front to make it heavier (for more inertia for realisticity) and for crisper steering.
    Speaking of preload spacers. I'm guessing it makes for a stiffer suspension. Can it be used in place for oil weight to figure out what weight you'd want to use? Or is it completely different?

    The brand of shock oil... it matters, but doesn't matter at the same time. Here's what I mean. Different brands oil weight ratings are a bit different, for example, TLR shock oil is 2-3W heavier than Team Associated, so try to stick with a single brand, to prevent the hassle of starting over to test different oil weights. Also, making silicone oil is pretty hard to mess up, so you can't go wrong with shock oil from any brand.
    Thanks for the info

    If you want new shock recommendations, people like GTR shocks, or Proline Powerstrokes. If you don't like the ultra shocks, then stay away from the Big Bore shocks, since they are the exact same, except the Big Bores are made of aluminum. I have changed the shock body to aluminum ones by STRC:
    What is the difference between those? I've seen people mention Big Bore and GTR. What makes them different?

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    There is oil from the top cap to the underside of the bottom A-Arm. Granted I didn't notice this till she told me she lost the spring cup. She probably has a total of 4-5 hours runtime on it since she got it 2 months ago.
    The shock cap may be loose or has fitment issues with the shock body. A little bit is fine, but if it is soaked in oil, then it could either be the shock cap or the shock body that is causing the loose fitment.

    Speaking of preload spacers. I'm guessing it makes for a stiffer suspension. Can it be used in place for oil weight to figure out what weight you'd want to use? Or is it completely different?
    Changing the shock oil weight, adding the shock preload, and having springs of different stiffness are completely different.

    Shock oil affects the rebound of the shock shaft. The thicker the oil, the slower the piston moves up and down since there is more resistance.

    Shock preload only affects ride height (how tall the car is off the ground), without changing the stiffness of the springs, so to change spring tension, you have to get different springs, instead of using preload.

    What is the difference between those? I've seen people mention Big Bore and GTR. What makes them different?
    Big Bore Shocks are exactly the same as what the car came stock with, except it has aluminum shock caps, aluminum shock body, and Titanium Nitride coated shock shafts (the TiNi shafts make it smoother and more durable). The GTR shocks are designed differently, and it has a threaded aluminum shock body for more fine-tuning. It has plastic shock caps, but people have had no issues with it, so Traxxas has designed it well. It also has the TiNi shock shafts. I've not had it, so that's as far as I can get with the differences.

    If you ask me, I would choose the GTR shocks over the Big Bore shocks, since it has a much better design.
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    The shock cap may be loose or has fitment issues with the shock body. A little bit is fine, but if it is soaked in oil, then it could either be the shock cap or the shock body that is causing the loose fitment.
    I may have found the culprit. The bladder under the cap was turned sideways. I must not have seated it correctly when I put the alum. caps on. What is the best way to keep those seated when screwing the caps on? Should they just pop inside the cap and then screw on or should they sit on the shock body then screw the cap on? I had it on the body and screwed the cap on and that's when I think it moved.


    Also on the rear shocks. What is the blue rubber cone on the bottom side?
    Last edited by kantonburg; 09-07-2020 at 07:27 PM.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    How i put the caps and bladder on is fairly simple. I just stick it in there flat. Use a supplied allen wrench to set it in there flat. I just run the allen wrench around until its nice and flat against the cap and wah lah.

    I believe that rubber cone acts as a bump stop. So the rubber seal around the shaft doesn't get all torn up.

    I think..

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    How i put the caps and bladder on is fairly simple. I just stick it in there flat. Use a supplied allen wrench to set it in there flat. I just run the allen wrench around until its nice and flat against the cap and wah lah.

    I believe that rubber cone acts as a bump stop. So the rubber seal around the shaft doesn't get all torn up.

    I think..

    Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
    I guess that was my question is getting the bladder to stay in place on the shock. It wanted to move around on all four caps and one didn't seat right. Which I found today.

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  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Yeah i mean thats how i do it. Just stick it in there as best you can with your hand. Then you can use the allen wrench to press it down the rest of the way. Just run the allen wrench around the outside of the rubber. Stay beside the threads and just go in circles.

    You'll get it. Trial and error man.

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  9. #9
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    There are bladder style (what Traxxas uses) and emulsion shocks. Read up on them. In our case, the bladder is there to separate the air and shock oil so they do not mix. When the shock compresses the shock shaft takes up space within the shock body and since the oil does not compress it needs some place to go (it is displaced by the now encroaching shaft) so the bladder acts as an absorber.

    http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com/2015...-emulsion.html

    Instructions:

    1. Pull the piston out all the way.
    2. Fill the shock to the top with oil.
    3. Put the bladder into the cap.
    4. Screw the cap almost all of the way on, until it is almost sealed.
    5. Push the piston in about halfway, fluid will bleed out.
    6. Screw the rest of the cap on.
    The Super Derecho

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Am I supposed to half compress the shock before i screw the cap on?

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  11. #11
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    The Allen key trick is good. I always have a little oil on the cap and bladder.
    I use the Allen key to seat the bladder into the cap.
    The oil level is also key. The shock can’t be “full” or you will compress the bladder and push it sideways when you tighten the cap.
    It needs to be a bit shy of full. So the trick is finding that happy level without leaving an air bubble.
    I also find that alum. caps are less forgiving to over tightening.
    If you over tighten you will ruin the bladder and will need to swap it out.
    If you have a suspect bladder, compare it to a new one. If it’s stretched or deformed, replace.
    I also find bladders can only be reused a few times before they leak forever...

    40-45 wt oil is my recommendation.
    The stock shocks are great imo, save you money for more batteries!

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Okay well that makes me feel a little better. I usually fill it to the top. Then I'll pump the shock a few times. Make sure there's no bubbles. Then I add more until it almost looks like a half moon. Like it's full to the edges but the very center is just a bit lower. Then i screw it on.

    Does a leaky bladder put oil above it. Like up in the cap? Or does it actually leak?

    Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    In regards to the spring cup falling off my recommendation to the o.p. is to see if your spring keeps tension on the spring cup at full shock extension. If there is not tension on the spring cup they have a tendency to fall off. Your choices are you can stretch the springs slightly (make sure they are stretched an equal amount), add spring spacers, add internal travel limiter spacers, buy longer springs or sometimes if you can move them into inner holes to limit their travel. I have hear of putting zip ties around the spring and cup also to keep from losing them. Also don't go too heavy on the shock oil or spring tension if you want it to turn without rolling over.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

  14. #14
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    Official:

  15. #15
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    Better and worth the whole watch:

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spechal View Post
    Better and worth the whole watch:
    I've watched a few of his videos before. Other than him rambling in all his videos they're pretty good.

    Here is where the question comes in. Half of the videos put the bladder in the cap. He puts it on the body. I guess either is ok. His method seems to work. I'm surprised he doesn't run aluminum caps.

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