Has anyone else been breaking driveshafts left and right? I don’t even bash. Definitely a let down.
The shafts are the same larger upgraded shafts that are on the Rustler 4x4 and are actually pretty strong. I'd be curious to see some pics of how/where yours broke, and to know what you were doing when it happened.
Last edited by GotNoRice; 09-07-2020 at 07:07 PM.
Well... it is a stampede, guessing they are using the newer rustler 4x4 sliders, which are a bit stronger than the 4x4 stampede started with. With the original ones on the stampede, I was lucky to make it through a bash session on 2S with the 3500kv motor in it without having a yoke break.
Went with MIP X-Duty's 3 years ago and have only broken one once, which was a few months ago on a horrible landing. The RPM arm bent so much that it over flexed the cvd joint and busted the bell end. Not bad for 3 years of abuse.
I'm running a 4074 2200kv in it now on 3S, also was at the time when it broke.
https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss
Literally not doing anything crazy. Just running around the yard with my son. Same stuff I do with my Tmaxx 3.3 and my Typhon 6s. No jumps no bashing.
Last edited by Frankchall2; 09-07-2020 at 08:19 PM.
Thank you. Im sure it has something to do with rotational mass. Those tires are quite chunky.
Say you're driving around. Not necessarily beating on it but just having fun. You hit a jump, or maybe turned at a higher speed and flipped the truck over. Well in that split second you might've been on the throttle and all the mass from the other side as well as everything else, spun the universal joint and blew the ears off the shaft.
The sudden stop of the tire hitting the ground and everything else still moving is what probably did it.
I break axles all the time and thats usually what happens to me.
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
Do you see any evidence of twisting/bending at the joints on the other shafts that have not broken yet?
If you see evidence of bending, aka a shaft that is going to break soon, you can rotate them side to side to squeeze a bit more life out of them. The best solution in the end would be to upgrade to metal shafts.
Can't be a slipper-clutch issue, as someone else had suggested, since the Hoss 4x4 uses a center diff and not a slipper clutch.
"Bashing" generally refers to just having fun with your truck, aka not racing. Bashing doesn't necessarily mean huge jumps or being intentionally rough with your truck.
The 3670 motor in your Hoss is a torque monster, and way more powerful than the motor in the Rustler 4x4, so it doesn't surprise me that it's able to break those shafts, but it's still not something you hear about too often (maybe because the Hoss is still so new).
Try not to peg the throttle off-the-line (especially on high-traction surfaces such as the street), and if you do catch some air, make sure to let off the throttle before you land.
OK. Didn’t know the center diff. was stock.
So backyard runs, in grass probably, limited space, tight turns, maybe too much body roll with high suspension...
Maybe you are lifting a wheel while diffing out, then snapping the axle when it sets back down.
Maybe try some heavier diff oil. I imagine stock is fairly light.
Another factor may just be the grass. With a high torque motor you can power through but something has to give somewhere.
Those joints are a weak spot and with no clutch to give they take all the excess torque...
Lastly, I always lube my joints. It’s a high wear point and needs lube.
Looks like I’ll just need to upgrade to the steel. Are the traxxas steel ones the best or are there other aftermarket shafts that are good?
I have been running nitro cars and truck for years. This is my second LiPo. Never had this issue before with any of my vehicles. I bash my Tmaxx and by bash I mean run it hard.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
MIP X-Duty CVDs are the most durable, but they are heavy and they are expensive. I have a set that is nearly a decade old and has survived a ton of abuse.
https://www.miponline.com/MIP-X-Duty...-Rustler-18140
Are these the right ones?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, those are the rear set. You also need the front set (or you could stick with stock on the front):
https://www.miponline.com/MIP-X-Duty...ally-4x4-18150
My fronts are the ones that are breaking, but I will probably do them all around
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hmmm, that's very interesting. On the Stampede 4x4 and Rustler 4x4 (which both use a slipper clutch) it's usually the rear shafts that break first. I wonder if the issue you are having is actually related to the center differential. When the front tires lift off the ground (such as during a wheelie), the diff will have a tendency to shift power to the front tires. That's nice because it will help bring the nose of the truck back down and make the truck easier to handle, but bad because every time it happens you have tires that are free-spinning in the air hitting the ground and potentially putting stress on the CVDs.
I guess we'll find out if this is a trend as more people get the Hoss.
Heavy braking hammers the front axles. Heavy throttle beats up the rear axles. Landing while on the throttle is hard on both ends.
https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss
After looking on Facebook and YouTube there seems to be a lot of people breaking them.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here are my thoughts , Just check the distance between the shaft and the A arm - near the stub axle -tire, I found a few times on my slash that it hit the arm just a bit and broke the shaft , after looking at my rustler , they were close too, I used a Dremel and trimmed them a bit , the newer arms are really close IMHO , I also have 4 degree a arms on the rear which angles things a bit , look close , if you see some wear on the a arm - its hitting them just a bit when jumping - flexing - good luck
Here is a pic , its from a rustler , but you get the idea , see how close to the a arm
Just a little stub axle flex and its hitting the a arm
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ll check it out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just check the clearance - if its not even close then you have another issue - weak.... upgrade
Sometimes i feel like this is what could be happening when I break ears off on the stub axle end on my truck. Mine are extremely close to the a arms as well..
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
I’ll check it later. And if it is close I will get a micrometer out and actually check the distance see what it says.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Remember that they could flex outwards just a bit when they're really spinning.
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
Just use a Dremel on the arms - just a bit and see what happens next few runs - my rpm carriers flex like crazy - the driveshafts spin so fast it just takes a second if it hits the A arm - snap !
Here is how close my rustler arms are
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
not sure if the hoss ones are this close in the rear or not , the slash and rustler are
Which holes in the rear carriers are you using for the hinge pin? I found with my 2wd Stampede in the early ‘00 that the driveshafts drag on the arms in that spot if using the upper mounting holes on the carrier so I’ve been using the Lower holes ever since.
https://www.instagram.com/greenjeep1998/?hl=en
lower ones too
I use the rustler 4x4 shafts that’s y they are so close to the a arm
I may not be able to tell for a couple weeks, but I did order a pair of backordered Hoss rear shafts for my 2wd Pede, which has the RPM’s Slash/Stampede 4x4 rear arms and carriers on it already. I blew one of the ears off one of the Jato yokes (I’ve been running Jato shafts on it since the mid 00’s too) and figured why not. The slipper is the one I installed when the Revo Spec parts became available for repair items so the pads are a bit glazed and the disk looks.......well used, to be kind.
https://www.instagram.com/greenjeep1998/?hl=en
Currently out of town. Still planning on checking it when I get back in town Saturday after next. Just didn’t want anyone to think I bailed on the thread.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In the past 3 days I’ve broken 2 front axles
Sounds like meI guess i might as well call my slash a hoss, cause that's all its known for at this point. Broken shafts.
Where are they breaking? Is it spinning the ujoint out? Or breaking off ears?
Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk
Yep just got my hoss today and broke my right front driveshaft within a hour of driving it should of cane with better ones from the start for the price
That’s what took out the Jato shafts I had on my Stampede a few weeks ago, I was doing hard, wheelie inducing pulls from a dig and blasting from asphalt to grass to concrete and back under power (VXL swapped, 7600mAh 2s, well worn slipper set tight too) with the truck running through the grass like a skipped rock on water before hitting the driveways or sidewalks, and was sometimes up in only 1 rear tire under power before hitting the ground again.
https://www.instagram.com/greenjeep1998/?hl=en
Well I got back from my trip and broke another front driveshaft within about 10 min of running. So I ordered steel ones and put them in. Ordered the Tekno Rc fronts. I have used them for about 5 hours worth of running now without a single issue. 38$ well spent!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk