Got a new 1/16 E-revo enroute and looking to get the basics out of the way and ordered.
So....
Motor heatsink and fan... what do we recommend here?
ESC heatsink/fan??!? - is there such a thing for the vxl-3m?
Diff Oil (front/center/rear) weights - what do most people run? Looking for less wheelies and controlled turns on hard or semi-hard surfaces
Shocks - looks like the ones that it comes with are plastic (composite)?? If so, then are the hard anodized gtrs the best option?
Shock Oil Weight(s) - I searched the forums but folks are all over the place here.. what’s recommended?
Thanks in Advance for any help you can provide!
Looks like I’ll have more time to figure this out, my merv came with a messed up transmission, Traxxas techs working on it now.
I picked up the gtr shocks and black springs for it. Still trying to nail down oil weights, although I might just have to load up the car and sort that out with testing.
Stock diff oil is 50 front and 30 rear.. thinking this plus a 50 center might work well once I get the center diff (which is sold out everywhere - including the Traxxas retail store at their HQ). Thoughts?
Thoughts on heatsink/fan?
For the motor I used a Yeah Racing heatsink and fan for the motor. I modded it to work better. Link to thread:Motor-Cooling.
I haven't found anything for the ESC yet.
Yeah saw this thread, thanks man. The yeah racing stuff is good but you still had to mod it for airflow. I saw the integy C28595 heatsink/40mm fan combo. Looks well designed but the fans from integy are always questionable. I have a spare yeah racing fan that I could swap out if the integy one sucks.. from experience though, they usually use different screws..
Let us know how that heatsink/fan mount works out. It looks professional compared to what I did. LoL.
Alright, heatsink/fan came in and it’s good news and bad news.
So here is what it looks like...
So the fan is huge (like 18mm high)! The heatsink is pretty sweet though as it allows air to blow onto the heatsink and completely covers the motor. The fan does move a lot of air, so actually not bad at all. The problem comes in that the fan sits too high and prevents a body from closing over it. It’s close enough that I could force the body to be pinned close but it completely blocks the top of the fan and airflow almost stops.
Since it’s a good 40mm fan, I can use it for something else, but I am going to have to get a 40x40x10mm fan to replace it on the merv, which is very annoying... like how are you going to make a fan especially for the 1/16 erevo but it doesn’t fit completely...
So the heatsink is great but it is also heavy. Going to move over to summit rate springs because with this heatsink, my tbone brace and dual batteries, even the black springs have a saggy rear... it hits and drags the ground upon acceleration.
Talk about motor cooling! I don't think you would ever need to worry about overheating the motor, LoL.
I do like the heatsink/fan mount. Looks like it is much better than the one I have. Get a shorter fan and it couldn't get much better as it looks like it covers the whole motor and possibly blow air on the ESC. Any issues installing? Does it hold on the motor well?
What about getting taller body posts vs smaller fan?
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It’s a good call out and I considered it.
The body posts on it are already adjustable but even at their highest setting, are too short. Second, I not too keen on having it sit so high - aesthetics wise. And third, the two sets of extended body posts (ie the 1/16 rally body posts) are the same cost of a new fan.
New fan came in today, pushes as much air as the original but half the height.
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So far so good, new build has:
- Traxxas Center Diff
- Integy Heatsink & Yeah Racing Fan (works fantastic.. ran a hard session on 3s and engine never got too hot to touch)
- Steel Hollowballs
- Bushing to Bearing replacements on Rockers and steering
- T-Bone 3 piece chassis brace
- GTR shocks with Summit Blue springs in front (waiting on summit purples to be shipped for rear)
- Replaced 40wt oil with 50wt oil, although I am waiting for 80wt oil to come in (its sold out everywhere)
- Hot Racing Sway bar set
Once I get the springs and oil and dial in the suspension more, I am going to be very happy with this truck.
I do have a problem and searching the forum, it looks like its probably the stock plastic knuckles and pillow-ball plug. When I am going in a straight line (its the worse upon breaking), the rear tires (a little in front too) have a horrible wobble - very noticeable and causes the car to shake.
Looks like a permanent fix for this is aluminum carriers/knuckles - is this right? I found the hot racing brand ones, which look good, but which other brands have you seen work well?
I use the Traxxas aluminum pivot ball caps. They are adjustable unlike the stock clips and install in the stock carriers. Works just like the carriers on the bigger Erevo,Revo,Tmaxx.
Traxxas part #7033x
If I didn’t have the HR metal carriers, I would have purchased the Traxxas 7033X. The plastic cap kept popping off on my rear passenger pivot ball.
Have fun!![]()
Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein
For me the RPM hub carriers have been flawless for 2 years now. They are lightweight and allow for adjustable tension on the pillow balls without the use of threadlock. If I had known about the #7033X I would of used them and saved the money TBH.
Last edited by zedorda; 09-26-2020 at 01:54 AM.
Agreed... when I got my HR carriers, the 7033X was not available, but I like the HR’s because it let me add a little bling for fun:
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Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein
Thanks guys! As always, good feedback.
I heard the aluminum screws in the stock carrier do not last, do you guys feel otherwise? I am down for a easy solution like that but only if it removes the wheel slop and lasts. I have no worries over using some locktite though on full aluminum.
I don't know how they won't last. Mine fit very snug in the carriers and hold where i adjusted them to. They are actually a tighter fit than the ones in my bigger Revo's. I'm very happy with them in my MERV. So much so that I installed another set in my mini-summit.
It's your choice or preference on which way to go. I've just never been a fan of having moving metal to metal parts.
Agreed, I changed my plastic ones out immediately. Thanks for the feedback on the Traxxas hub screws, gonna take a second look at them now.
Feeling pretty good about my build now and I have the performance I was trying to achieve.. here is how it ended (I have a new body in the works, so for now, just rocking the stock one):
I didn’t touch the axles, which I’ll change out with some cvds if they twist/break.
Changed I ended up making:
> Aluminum GTR Shocks (Blue springs Front, Purple springs Rear)
> 80wt shock oil all around
> Hot Racing Hubs front/rear
> Hot Racing Sway Bars
> T-Bone Red Chassis Brace
> Center Differential (50wt oil)
> Steel Hollow Balls all over
> Bearings instead of Bushings on Steering and Rockers
> Integy Motor Heatsink
> Yeah Racing 40mm Fan
> RPM sensor & Magnet
> Temp & Voltage Sensors
Last edited by halygon; 10-06-2020 at 12:22 PM.
The center diff was randomly in stock at the Traxxas retail store when I went there one time and the hot racing sway bars I found at some rando hobby shop called hobby-time.com, just went there to get ya a link and they don’t have the part anymore. It still shows on a google search though. I found for it I had best luck searching by model number: VXS311X01
I will say that the sway bars make the car unflippable in turns (even with 3s)... well worth finding.
just a note you will lose almost all your individual suspension articulation with sway bars as a trade off
It's not entirely wrong, but the sway bars do have different thicknesses, so you get to choose how much articulation occurs and how much sway-dampening can happen. I went with medium and am happy - still got some individual suspension action but not enough that it ruins my handling.