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  1. #1
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    Smile Toe adjustment???

    Sorry I am new to Traxxas products. I have a 1/16 e-revo vxl brushless. The toe in on the front end is ridiculous and I do not see a way to adjust it or make the car drive straight. Iíve made sure the servo and trim is set to zero and I make sure the arm is straight. But there is a ton of toe in. If itís not adjustable anyone recommend upgrade parts that Iím assuming will solve this problem? Any help would be appreciated. Iíve seen quite a few upgrades and my kit is pretty much stock. I am well versed in other platforms. Losi AE Xray and they are all adjustable with stock parts.

  2. #2
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    I’ve figured out the ball and cupnadjustment and already think there should be an aluminum option for those ball caps no? They wear out fast and hard to keep camber correct without slop

  3. #3
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    I use the traxxas aluminum links, 7138X. As well as the traxxas steel hollow balls, 7028X. GPM makes some stainless steel ones if you'd rather have that.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    Definitely need to thicken my weight of shock oil. Traxxas recommendation on 40wt just doesn’t seem to be enough. I guess I’ll have to do my own research. I’m trying. It’s a Traxxas overload. If anyone feels like chiming in on a newb I’d appreciate it

  5. #5
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    But nothing as far as aluminum ball cups? Or just stick with the plastic ones...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Extremercing View Post
    I use the traxxas aluminum links, 7138X. As well as the traxxas steel hollow balls, 7028X. GPM makes some stainless steel ones if you'd rather have that.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    Thank you! I see those links are very adjustable!!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Extremercing View Post
    I use the traxxas aluminum links, 7138X. As well as the traxxas steel hollow balls, 7028X. GPM makes some stainless steel ones if you'd rather have that.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    Are the hollow balls for mounting the links? I see they sell a set with links hollow balls and a wrench for adjusting the links

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basher79 View Post
    Are the hollow balls for mounting the links? I see they sell a set with links hollow balls and a wrench for adjusting the links
    The stock plastic ones are junk and don't last very long, that's why I would get them.

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  9. #9
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basher79 View Post
    But nothing as far as aluminum ball cups? Or just stick with the plastic ones...
    I use the Traxxas Aluminum ball caps that replace the stock clip in ones. They work great. Link: Part#7033X.

    With the stock non-adjustable toe links, you need to adjust the pivot balls to change the alignment. If you turn them out a little at a time you'll see the wheels start to toe-out.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basher79 View Post
    Definitely need to thicken my weight of shock oil. Traxxas recommendation on 40wt just doesnít seem to be enough. I guess Iíll have to do my own research. Iím trying. Itís a Traxxas overload. If anyone feels like chiming in on a newb Iíd appreciate it
    I'm going to be running 90wt with tan front springs and rear black springs. Im driving on road and won't be spending much time in the dirt.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I use the Traxxas Aluminum ball caps that replace the stock clip in ones. They work great. Link: Part#7033X.

    With the stock non-adjustable toe links, you need to adjust the pivot balls to change the alignment. If you turn them out a little at a time you'll see the wheels start to toe-out.
    Those aluminum Traxxas ball caps will work with my stock hubs? The stock ball caps click into the holes. Looks like those aluminum ones come with a hex wrench to thread them on?

  12. #12
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    Yes you thread them into the stock hubs.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Extremercing View Post
    Yes you thread them into the stock hubs.
    Yup. What Extremercing said.

    Take off snap on caps and thread these in place. They let you adjust the amount of play you want on the pivot balls.

  14. #14
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    Thank you both very much!!I’ve been writing all these numbers down. It still amazes me how nice y’all been. But I’m now wondering if theres isn’t a general upgrade bundle that someone sells so I get everything at once. Most items are on back order. I appreciate all the info but I may have to look elsewhere. The toe in issue for me is most important right now. I’d like to race it at the local carpet track and not being able to easily adjust that is a problem. I know grizzly mentioned I can adjust the pivot balls but all I’m seeing that’s able to be adjusted is the top and bottom picot balls on front and rear hub. Which just adjust camber in or out. And play. Not seeing an adjustable ball on the links. They just screw in with plastic ball pivot and screw. I tore the front skid plate off and servo protector so see if anything in there could be adjusted and I don’t see it. Any advice?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basher79 View Post
    Thank you both very much!!Iíve been writing all these numbers down. It still amazes me how nice yíall been. But Iím now wondering if theres isnít a general upgrade bundle that someone sells so I get everything at once. Most items are on back order. I appreciate all the info but I may have to look elsewhere. The toe in issue for me is most important right now. Iíd like to race it at the local carpet track and not being able to easily adjust that is a problem. I know grizzly mentioned I can adjust the pivot balls but all Iím seeing thatís able to be adjusted is the top and bottom picot balls on front and rear hub. Which just adjust camber in or out. And play. Not seeing an adjustable ball on the links. They just screw in with plastic ball pivot and screw. I tore the front skid plate off and servo protector so see if anything in there could be adjusted and I donít see it. Any advice?
    As you adjust the pivot balls out it will slowly toe out the wheels. There isn't much you can do to make the merv (Mini E-ReVo) adjustable until you start buying parts. I wouldn't buy anything from GPM online unless you are willing to wait a couple weeks. I would go to a local hobby shop to see what they have for hop up parts. I would also pick up some RPM a arms as they are more flexible and can handle much more of a beating.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  16. #16
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    Thank you!

  17. #17
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    You turn the pivot balls themselves in/out of the a-arm. If you already have the camber you want, you would turn both the top and bottom pivot ball the same. As you turn the pivot balls out the wheels will start to get toe-out. By moving the wheels out (unscrewing the pivot balls) basically what that is doing is similar to making the toe-link shorter.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Extremercing View Post
    I'm going to be running 90wt with tan front springs and rear black springs. Im driving on road and won't be spending much time in the dirt.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    Just straight on road or with jumps etc? I would be running on carpet “off road” jumps etc. any other opinion would be helpful

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    You turn the pivot balls themselves in/out of the a-arm. If you already have the camber you want, you would turn both the top and bottom pivot ball the same. As you turn the pivot balls out the wheels will start to get toe-out. By moving the wheels out (unscrewing the pivot balls) basically what that is doing is similar to making the toe-link shorter.
    I believe I understand now. As far as adjusting the stock linkage. And limitations on getting the toe out. Make it sloppy. And everything is different from stactick and actual. I’m just going to find some adjustable aluminum links! Thank you!

  20. #20
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    That would be easier to adjust. Plus they would be stronger than the plastic links.

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