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  1. #1
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    Need tuning advice (heavily modded)

    Let me preface this first and foremost by saying I know this is an unconventional build. I know this will never see a legit race, and I know it's not the greatest for bashing. With that being said, this build was meant to push the limits of my own engineering, and to be something truly wild. My goal is to have a super solid "base/foundation" built (chassis, towers, knuckles, bellcrank, powertrain), and just change out shocks and tires depending on what I want to do. So my biggest problem right now is lack of steering at speeds around 35+ at the street track. It was happening at lower speeds due to the weight distribution, untill I put some weights on the front arms, not on any part of the chassis in order to remain independent of the shocks. Considering adding more weight to see if the equation holds true.

    Now some pictures.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/EpO5Cb8
    https://imgur.com/gallery/3jJzIDQ

    If you guys want a full list of mods I'll try to take note of everything I've done.

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    I would like to know your mods. A lot of interesting things on that rig.

  3. #3
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    Okay here we go.
    Lcg chassis with numerous screws and all bearings replaced (most screws are 2.5mm now).
    Mamba monster x with rpm esc cage, running on 6s, two trx 5000 3s batts.
    Castle 1515 2200kv with hobbywing ezrun c4 fan.
    Trx to ec5 adapters into series harness.
    Have both rpm and proline gearboxes.
    Rpm gearbox has hot racing diff spool, dremmeled second flat spot on the spool shaft to give a second set screw hold (this is my off road gearbox).
    Proline gearbox has 500k diff fluid (this is my street gearbox).
    Had to drill holes in both gearbox motor mounts to fit the castle 1515.
    Also had to cut the rear of the rpm gearbox so it no longer wraps around the motor.
    Both run 18/58.
    Both have top gear shaft hole and gear slit enlarged to allow use of an axle pin instead of stock mini pin inside the gearbox.
    Tekno m6 rear driveshaft kit (hexes, carriers, and dogbones).
    Aluminum wheel hexes up front
    Custom steel rear bumper.
    Rpm body mounts.
    Rpm rear shock tower.
    Aluminum front shock tower.
    Aluminum bulkhead.
    Stock ultra shocks for on road, with hardware springs rated for 22lbs each front (+5mm spacers) , 44lbs each rear, 80wt.
    Aluminum shock caps.
    All aluminum big bore shocks for off road, with springs they came with with spring retainer all the way down, 80wt.
    Cheap amazon servo "20kg"
    Rpm caster blocks
    Rpm steering blocks
    Added about 2lbs to each front arms
    Running on proline 2.2 street fighters up front and rear, but the 2.8 trenchers in the rear seem to give me a lot more rear traction (and looks crazy).
    I do have both Traxxas and castle bluetooth things but the Traxxas one is bugged out.

    I also have protrac rear arms coming in the mail soon.
    I heard they are a little longer so I'm hoping they alleviate the binding between my driveshafts and diff cups when suspension travels up. They bottom out inside the cup and do not allow anything less then positive camber.
    As well as proline aluminum 6x30 rim hex inserts in hopes of not rounding any more rims
    Last edited by UPPERDECKER; 09-16-2020 at 02:54 PM.

  4. #4
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    Update;
    Tore all weights off and redid them into a 3 pound engine-like weight between and forward of the front wheels.
    It's dang near 50/50 weight distribution with center feeling right between the arms, and maybe around 12 lbs loaded.
    Aluminum rim hubs are installed on front wheels to help keep inside front wheels down.
    Protrac rear arms installed and present new issue of dogbone only remaining safe inside diff cup at most neg 10 degrees rear camber.
    Installed tekno dogbone rebuilt kit.
    Adjusted front camber neg 10 degrees.
    Adjusted front toe 2-3 degrees out.
    Installed all 4 rpm shock guards.
    Switched 22 lbs 2 3/4 in. spring to rear shocks, with 2 largest size preload spacers each.
    Installed unknown capacity 1.5 in. spring (very stiff) on front shocks.
    Lowered front shock tower mount location.
    Proline street fighters on all 4.

    Going to go to the track tomorrow and see how it does.
    More pictures.
    https://i.imgur.com/Ag9V0y0.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/J5j2JJV.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/9zRYLzY.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/nzsAyo0.jpg

  5. #5
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    What's the purpose of the metal plate on the rear? It looks like it would act like a parachute and add excessive drag, which could contribute to your steering loss at speed.

  6. #6
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    It's to replace the rear bumper. Primarily to protect my investment on the castle, and the stock bumper wouldn't fit with it. Air drag was something I considered when first installing, but I guess I didn't put much thought into anything less then say, 45 mph. Cause in a straight line it's a rocket lol. I cut a few holes in the body but it still pulls up at like 45-50. I have the proline monster fusion body with way more holes I may try to see how fast I can run that, but I don't really like how it looks with the street fighters. Should I maybe put a few holes into the rear bumper? How much is too much to where it's impacting structural integrity?

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    I think a few half inch holes would help. Just make sure you have a couple centimeters between each hole. Maybe even 3 or 4 centimeters.

    It being metal should help with the structure tremendously.

    Sent from my LGL722DL using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I would try taking off the piece that goes up and down. I think without that "air-dam" you should notice a difference. Maybe just put a strip across the top of the "L" brackets instead of the flat plate. That way it's open and not holding air flow.

    Have you when riding in a vehicle ever stuck your hand out against the air? If you hold your hand flat against the air it pushes your hand back. Now when you turn your hand sideways like a wing it slices through the air with little resistance.

  9. #9
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    We had similar ideas for our rigs. A super solid "base/foundation" and with just a few simple part swaps allowing for application in all the terrains we are interested in using our rigs. But our plans diverge where instead of over-engineering my Slash 2WD I decided to start with a Slash 4x4. Because I was already experiencing understeer and bad weight transfer with my Slash 2WD.

    I do wish you the best but I really can not offer much advice on the vary thing I avoided. I will be following this thread though since I love these kinds of projects and may learn a thing or two.

  10. #10
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    Yes the hand out the window on air resistance strikes pretty accurate, seeing as it's larger then my hand held out flat. Would a strip along top be enough protection though? The car is a lot heavier and I'm highly concerned for the powertrain. I will definitely be putting holes in at the very least. Also I completely understand starting with 4wd would be a lot better, I do keep wishing my front wheels would pull me out of some oversteer, but there's just something about 2wd that gets to me haha

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    How about something that will let the air pass thru yet still be strong enough to protect it as you want for the rear bumper. Heres a pic of a pickup truck "headache rack" as a example of what I mean.
    Seems like your truck will haul butt once you get it to stay on the ground.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Pretty short time at the track today. Decided to take it out before going at the rear plate. Before leaving I adjusted front camber to about neg 1-2 degrees each, and front toe out to about 1-2 degrees each. Car was driving extremely well. The oversteer at speed was definitely there in full effect, but it still remains predictable, and it handles much more like a real car. I was able to take a wide turn at a high speed and ride my rear end out for about 10-15 feet and recover. After a few hot laps and twisties, my dogbone would not stay in the diff cup anymore. This seemed to happen on only one side though. This renders these Protrac arms useless with Tekno M6 dogbones. But that leaves me feeling better about modding them. My next move is to trim the Protrac arms down a few mm and drill new holes for the hinge pin. If that doesn't work I may try the RPM one's, maybe I can end up modding those better.

  13. #13
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    That would actually be a really interesting idea Steve, thanks. I'll definitely keep a metal mesh idea in mind when I start making a more finalized rear bumper. Maybe something like brackets on the outermost only like the picture. My 3 L brackets do seem a bit overkill, but I'd rather be safe then out a couple hundred bucks. The local road track here is rather small for car, but believe me it already hauls butt and I only have it at 30% max power haha. I tried running it at 50% and it felt like almost double the power but its just too much for the gears inside the gearbox, let alone the poor axle pins.

  14. #14
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    Why so heavy? Three lbs of extra weight seems kind of bonkers.

  15. #15
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    Oh yeah the whole build is bonkers haha. I ended up adding more weight to stop wheelies, help front traction, and even out weight distribution. It doesn't ever traction roll anymore either, which is a huge benefit.

  16. #16
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    New holes in Protrac rear arms. Now allowing a safe and comfortable 1-2 degrees rear camber with Tekno dogbones. Had to cut out a brace near the bearing carrier side but the carrier itself braces that end anyway.
    Should have a longer day at the track today.
    Picture of new holes.
    https://imgur.com/gallery/4EQFX9F

  17. #17
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    In regaurds to the tekno kit Im haveing same issue binding using new 32pitch proline tranny. I filed down back of dogbone as well as axle because it protruded into the difff cup a few mm. I gained down travel but still binding about 1/8 in shy of shock bottoming out mounted 2nd hole out factory a arm... What did everyone else do to rectify the binding with tekno cuz alot of people running them. still only positive camber I contacted tekno and proline awaiting response from tech department....

  18. #18
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    Are you using the stock a arms? That was the issue with the dogbones. The stock rear a arms are too short to where when they are about level with the chassis the dogbones back themselves into the diff cups. Nothing can really be done about that besides adding pos camber. I've read from varying threads that tekno says don't use rpm because they flex too much, which is why I went with the proline protrac rear a arms. I knew they were longer but wasn't sure how much it would effect my camber, turns out they are actually too long for tekno dogbones. I had the same problem as with the stock a arms but now with neg camber to save them from popping out. You can see in my picture where I drilled new holes, and the notches that sit in the diff cup are about 3/4 outwards of the cup at full droop. I'm not sure how many people run tekno dogbones, but I've never heard of people having this problem either. I assumed it didn't work and they opted for something else.

    I had thought about taking some dogbone off the diff side as well, but was worried about compromising the integrity of them

  19. #19
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    So after a couple bash sessions feeling out the car, anyone have any ideas on stronger axle pins? I know, throttle control, slipper setting, I know. But on 6s it's hard not to have too much fun on accident, and i don't want my clutch to squeal around every turn.
    Also I can't seem to engage the castle motor test thing, so I can't enable torque control, only punch, which I can't tell is doing anything?
    Also also, hot racing diff spool is holding up extremely well to 6s, albeit at 30% power. When this thing blows, what's a good alternative? I may just drill a hole through it and shove a screw all the way through and nut it. After that I have a spare stock diff I'm going to jb weld and hope for the best.
    Pictures of my 2 different setups installed at the same time
    https://i.imgur.com/n4MakxN.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/TJ054Lc.jpg
    I know I haven't updated the rear bumper yet, haven't had enough time. I got a few ideas and I think v2 is going to be way better though
    Last edited by UPPERDECKER; 09-30-2020 at 12:42 AM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by UPPERDECKER View Post
    So after a couple bash sessions feeling out the car, anyone have any ideas on stronger axle pins? I know, throttle control, slipper setting, I know. But on 6s it's hard not to have too much fun on accident, and i don't want my clutch to squeal around every turn.
    Also I can't seem to engage the castle motor test thing, so I can't enable torque control, only punch, which I can't tell is doing anything?
    Also also, hot racing diff spool is holding up extremely well to 6s, albeit at 30% power. When this thing blows, what's a good alternative? I may just drill a hole through it and shove a screw all the way through and nut it. After that I have a spare stock diff I'm going to jb weld and hope for the best.
    Pictures of my 2 different setups installed at the same time
    https://i.imgur.com/n4MakxN.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/TJ054Lc.jpg
    I know I haven't updated the rear bumper yet, haven't had enough time. I got a few ideas and I think v2 is going to be way better though
    Thx I ended up using stampede rear a arms. And mounted rear shocks 3rd hole on arm . Stock setting hole 6 on tekno hub 71.5mm
    On camber link but its over -2 so probably lengthening them a bit till -2deg. Plenty of good material on stampede arms if things don't work out.. Bash test later today see if the pop out. From what I've found people just used shock limiters with stock arms because the reduced travel keeps the truck more planted and stable from what I've found. Curious if the shafts they list you need in addition to the 1951x for protrac arms would have the same issue.
    Im waiting on tekno to get back with me because unless they changed the length on the bones everyone trying the kit will have the same issue.
    I can't comment on castle because I'm running Hobbywing xerunsct8
    But with my esc and only 2S with 2.8 badlands I can turn my punch all the way down to 1 and I still can't steal because the front wheels are always off the ground lol. I put 3000k in diff adjusted slipper the end result I added premix with different adjustments to throttle programming and results have bin good .Plenty of power when i need to grab the throttle but a very smooth throttle range. If I feel like riding wheel wheel stands I just hit switch I have bound to premix that toggles it on or off.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  21. #21
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    Nice well I hope things do work out with your pede arms. But yes I can see how a simple fix would to just limit the travel to right before they bind, but then again, your limiting travel. I'm curious to hear what tekno has to say about the matter as well.
    Holy cow I'm surprised to hear your truck runs that well. I guess I don't really know how my truck would run in those conditions, but it drives like a pig with the 2.8 trenchers on the rear at slower speeds. It really wakes up with some throttle though haha. I only use the street fighters up front with either trenchers or street fighters in the rear. I'm not too big a fan of 2.8s in the front.. and 2.2 fronts with 2.8 rears on a 2wd looks totally badass haha.
    Also I discovered that yeah wheelies are cool, but I think long-drawn peel outs are even cooler. Extra bonus points for big roosters all the way down haha

  22. #22
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    I bet she does lol. I have streetfighter 2.2 as well when I was driving it on pavement. Before I got the new proline 32 pitch tranny I was able to get 54mph
    Telephone pole to Telephone pole with stock tranny 48p 20/86 pinion spur gears.
    Hobbywing
    Xerun sct8 /3652 G2 4300kv
    Gens Ace 2S 6000mh 130c redline

    After twisting the stock driveshafts 2 times I got the HD ones no problems with them for weeks.

    Soooo I had to drill the pede arms like you . I took her out for a rip today and was very short lived off-road took one jump and bones decoupled. Drilled the arms adjusted my camber and tossed a 11t pinion that arrived today made a huge difference dropping down from 14T she was way to fast for the trails. I ran 3 packs hardcore offroad hammering and the tekno kit stood up to its reputation . But I'm very pleased its a totally different truck im shocked with the results of a few setup changes made a nite and day difference I'm still smiling thinking about how fun it was to come around a 30yard sweeper balls out with all 4s planted and responding well to my request to make steering inputs dogging larger rocks and ruts along my loop. I ordered a set of tlr gen 2
    Shocks today . I put titanium coated shafts aluminum caps and pink progressive traxass springs and losi 50wt in the ultras it came with. They working fine and no issues but I think the tlr shocks will be a well worth it upgrade. Prolines shocks are junk everyone raves about them despite the fact that they leak oil dampening sux and the bottom out blowing seals.
    The ultra shocks are better than the are at least in my experience as well as a few friends that fell into the hype about them. Idk about all models but the ultras are junk atleast in my own experience with them.


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  23. #23
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    Yeah I'm really surprised at how well the street fighters do on just about anything, for front wheels at least. Although in my setup they have about as much weight on them as most peoples entire rig haha. When I have them on the rear for on road use, they do really well and I can expect them to behave much like 1:1, again thinking the added weight really makes them shine in their environment. I'm just infatuated with how this thing handles like a real car. It never traction rolls, and I can power out of any turn, if I don't have too much fun. Speaking of which they seem to last forever. This much hoonage and I haven't even had to rotate them yet.
    I'll definitely second you on tekno holding up to their reputation for strength and durability. I'll recommend the tekno dog bones just as much as the street fighters to anyone. Of course if you are comfortable with slight modding.
    Dang that's a beefy battery, and at 4300kv on 2s I bet it screams haha. I don't even know how fast mine will get up to, too scared to see the other side off 50% max power on the castle app, but at 30% it feels around 40 ish mph.
    I never thought of it before but does changing teeth count on a pinion at lower teeth make a bigger difference? Like say going from 13 to 15 tooth vs 21 to 23 tooth? I figure the less total teeth, the more valuable each become?
    Also I've only ever ran the stock ultra shocks, though heavily modded, and Amazon big bores, which I can't even find a spec for, and I feel like the ultras are really not that bad, just wish they had more travel like the big bores.
    Glad you were able to get it dialed in, hyped me up just hearing you able to rip it like that haha

  24. #24
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    Okay long time since I had anything done worth posting untill now. Rear bumper v2 is complete and ready to run, except esc has been failing me for almost 2 weeks now. Castle sending me out a usb link to factory reset after a failed reset from b link which cleared any transmitter calibration. Can not engage calibration because esc isn't registering throttle at all, so cannot start calibration. There is no calibration bar at the bottom of my screen on the b link app. They said their android version is still catching up in development.
    I converted my hex inserts in my rims to 17mm and I have teknos 17mm hex adapters about to go in tomorrow, 12mm already spinning in my 2.8 trenchers, even got some banditos is 2.8. 17mm. Should be a good look.

    Pictures of the new bumper
    https://imgur.com/gallery/F2jApey

  25. #25
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    The V2 bumper looks much better than the V1 parachute. LoL. Is there a noticeable difference in weight?

  26. #26
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    Well there is a noticeable difference in weight, though not as much as I was hoping. Maybe somewhere around 3/4 the weight, maybe less but yeah shouldn't have to worry about a parachute bolted to my chassis haha. I'll find my gram scale when I install the 17mm adapters. But still, I'll take any less weight I can get in the rear at this point. Which kind of worries me about the 17mm adapters as well, I'll be using 2.8s in the rear exclusively with 2.2s up front, and I always have to worry about drive pins snapping. I'm hoping the adapters don't add too much mass for those poor pins to turn. Especially with my new banditos, or even my sandpaws haha

  27. #27
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    How about an rpm rear bumper? Why did you stray from the stock one?

  28. #28
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    Because the castle 1515 won't fit in the rpm gearbox. I had to cut off the whole rear side of it that goes around the motor and holds the bumper upright, and drill new holes in the motor mount plate. There's now nothing to hold a bumper on except the bolts under the chassis holding the gearbox and rear arms on. I don't really want to install an aluminum gearbox either because of the extra weight.

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