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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Rear Shocks on front???

    I have heard that some people are able to mount the rear shocks on the front along with the rear shock towers on the front for longer suspension travel. Are there any problems that would be caused by this (like if the suspension was completely extended would there be any problems with the driveshaft when turning)? Also, what other parts are needed for this mod? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  2. #2
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    I have done it, haven't had a chance to run it a whole lot myself but I haven't heard of anyone having any serious binding problem.

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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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  4. #4
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    In my experience this is only a problem with MIP X-duty axles. And only in the most extreme cases where you are turning with fully compresses or fully extended suspension and on the throttle.

    Just to safe guard from the issue I made 2-3mm-ish suspension "bumpers" out of silicone tubing. One outside the shock and one inside.

    These are failed cuts used as examples.




    Tool and surplus since I couldn't order less.


    I run the JConcepts MT front conversion kit pictured in post 38 in this thread: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...highlight=maxx
    Last edited by zedorda; 09-17-2020 at 02:11 AM.

  5. #5
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    The correct part numbers for the GTR shocks are 7461 for blue fronts and 7462 for blue rears. They also have them in green (G suffix) and black (X suffix). There might be red offered also. I know orange is sold as the shock body only also. A recommendation for a spring rate depend on your intended usage. You don't want to go too stiff if you want it to turn without rolling over easy.

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  6. #6
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    I posted in one of these threads about how I did it, but overall I would say it gave me the wheel travel I was looking for.

    Couple of pointers:
    - For a rear tower to fit on the front facing forward, you will need to remove some of the plastic. Use an exacto knife to do this, and the front tower you removed as a template. You will be able to see what needs to be removed.
    - The size shocks you are looking for on the front will be XX-Long GTR. I chose hard anodized for the advantages that brings, but any in that size will do the job.
    - If you have no sway bars - some material will need to be removed from the sides because the rear shock tower is wider in the middle than a front. Be careful and only remove what you have to. Test the down travel of the sway bars to ensure you are not causing binding by not removing enough plastic.
    - You will probably need to change the lower shock mount position wider to account for the new longer shock. Play around with this till you get it how you like it.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Thanks for the amount of info everyone, they will help a lot! Pretty awesome stuff!

    I will probably get a rear shock tower, and a pair of rear GTR shocks along with springs, since I still have the stock ultra shocks. If it works well, then I'll leave the GTRs in the front, and get another pair of rear GTR shocks for the rear. If for some reason the things don't work out, then I'll replace the rear ultrashocks with it and get another pair of front GTRs for the front.

    Just to safe guard from the issue I made 2-3mm-ish suspension "bumpers" out of silicone tubing. One outside the shock and one inside.
    I think I will also get some nitro fuel tubing. Thanks for the tip! Just the regular size for nitro fuel tubing will work right?

    If you have no sway bars - some material will need to be removed from the sides because the rear shock tower is wider in the middle than a front. Be careful and only remove what you have to. Test the down travel of the sway bars to ensure you are not causing binding by not removing enough plastic.
    Did you mean to say I should do this if I had sway bars? I don't have sway bars now, but I am planning to add them in the future, so if I have to do that modification, I would rather do it now. Would it help to also have rear sway bars on the front?

    Thanks for the help, everyone! Really appreciate it!
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  8. #8
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    For me, I already had front sway bars so I modified the plastic to let the sway bar fit. I never tried to put the rear sway bar on the front. Maybe someone might know if that works.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Actually, I think it would still make more sense to use the front sway bars on the front, since the rear mounting position is still very different, and it would end up making mounting it on the arms an issue (it'd also cost more, since I have to get two).
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Alright, so the XX-long GTRs are on the way. Now is the matter of springs. I want to go with Ten SCTE springs, but I am only able to find them in packs of 4 pairs for $20 ... Don't really need that much. The most I would use is two, but I guess it'd be good for more tuning options
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    Alright, so the XX-long GTRs are on the way. Now is the matter of springs. I want to go with Ten SCTE springs, but I am only able to find them in packs of 4 pairs for $20 ... Don't really need that much. The most I would use is two, but I guess it'd be good for more tuning options
    Just curious, where did you find them in stock at?

    Also, for myself, I went with Traxxas blue gtr springs and they do the job well. There’s a rate higher than blue if you think you need it.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    I found them on eBay, it did take a while to find one in stock.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-TRA...gAAOSwMiFfXTdj
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  13. #13
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    Thank you!

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Alright! The parts have arrived! One thing I noticed was that the shocks don't come with spring retainers? I haven't opened them yet, so I am not sure. I have just taken a quick glimpse at them:


    I guess I should have payed more attention when ordering the parts lol. Now I have to wait till the weekend.
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  15. #15
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    I am guessing that is the difference between TRA 7462 and TRA 7462X.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    I am guessing that is the difference between TRA 7462 and TRA 7462X.
    It surprised me too cause it looks like every other color does come with them but not the blue. In general, I always get the hard anodized version, so I never realized the blue ones didn’t come with it.

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Mine came with them, and were already on the shocks. Although, I got mine some time ago from Amazon. Traxxas and Amain were out at the time. Seeing pictures of these on Amazon, some show retainers ON the shock, and some pics don't.

    Mine were 7462X if that makes a difference.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Alright, so I just opened it. At first, I thought I'd have to order some, but it turns out, all the parts needed were included in a small plastic bag, right under the red piece of paper that says "Genuine Traxxas Parts". Nearly missed it, since it was sandwiched between the red paper, and a flat piece of foam
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  19. #19
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    I thought so.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Did you get the rear shock tower and springs?
    Can't wait to hear your results and review.

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Yep! I'll probably start on it tommorrow afternoon, since I also want to make a video of doing it with a before/after test. I'm doing the "before" stuff today.



    Oops... I just realized I ordered the rear SCTE springs instead of the front.
    Would it damage the shocks if the springs are tad bit longer than the shocks?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-27-2020 at 01:53 AM. Reason: merge
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  22. #22
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    The rear springs will probably work better since you are using them on "rear" shocks.

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  23. #23
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    The Losi springs are a bit longer, but I guess it doesn't make that much of a difference.
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  24. #24
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    If they are too long, it will effectively give you preload. But since you are already using xx-long rear shocks.. should work fine.

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    If they are too long, it will effectively give you preload. But since you are already using xx-long rear shocks.. should work fine.
    Thanks! I'll keep them.
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Might give you colse to full extension with little droop that way.
    Test test test...

    Have fun!

  27. #27
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    If the springs are a little too long i use the next "softer" pair if you have an assortment.


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  28. #28
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    I would just cut them if they are too long since going softer changes the spring rate.

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    The springs are actually just a bit longer (perhaps by a few mms), but I think it shouldn't affect the ride height too much.

    I was going to fill the shocks with oil, but one slight problem... I can't seem to get the shock caps off no matter what I do, and yes, I have tried using the hex driver and a paper towel to try and remove it. I have tried for about half an hour. It is cranked hard on there, any ideas?
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  30. #30
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    ok, guys, I wasn't sure if I was gonna do this, but I did end up using a nut wrench (the adjustable ones), and finally was able to remove them
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    ok, guys, I wasn't sure if I was gonna do this, but I did end up using a nut wrench (the adjustable ones), and finally was able to remove them
    I always put an end wrench on the nut area and put a screwdriver or Allen wrench in the hollow ball and then turn.

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I wrap the shock body with a paper napkin, open my pluers to hold it, stick one of my MIP drivers in the shock cap hole and twist. Never had a problem yet!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  33. #33
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    I feel so basic just using shock tools.


  34. #34
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips!

    I am able to complete the conversion. Took longer than I thought it would, but it definitely was worth it! For the springs, I used the softest springs, and the ride height is almost where I want it to be. I need to add some spacers on the shock shafts to prevent it from bottoming out. The only major problem that I am having is the binding in the front diffs if the shock tower is facing forward. I could flip it the other way - that would stop the binding - but it would cause a bunch more problems with the shock springs hitting the suspension links, and I would need at least a centimeter thick spacer. Any input would help!

    Here's the pics (the shock tower is facing forward):







    Ok! I think I found the issue. The suspension link was installed the wrong way. Instead of being mounted to the front, it needs to be mounted to the back.



    (I link is has to be attached to the back of the shock tower to prevent the links from hitting the shocks springs without a bunch of spacers)

    With that figured out, I think I will flip the shock tower, and give that a try. Hopefully the binding will be gone.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-27-2020 at 01:54 AM. Reason: merge
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Sorry for the late update. The problem is fixed, just had to reconnect the links to the back of the shock tower, and no other mods were needed. So far, it is fantastic! GTR shocks are buttery smooth, and it has a plush feel to it that the ultra shocks don't have. It also makes the car look amazing too. I have another set of rear GTR shocks on the way (this time for the rear), and also a set of front and rear sway bars (gonna see what I can do to make the front fit).







    (Also, don't mind the rock on the front bumper, it's just a weight to increase front weight bias for crisper steering, will probably come up with a better idea for the front weight in the future )
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Your rig rocks!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  37. #37
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    So if you want the shock tower to face the right direction, you have to trim off some plastic to make it fit. I used the small front shock tower I was taking off as a guide.. but for reference, you need it to look like this:


  38. #38
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    Should also note that when your sway bars come in, you will need to trim this area on each side:


  39. #39
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Your rig rocks!
    Good one!

    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    Should also note that when your sway bars come in, you will need to trim this area on each side:

    Thanks for the tips! I still have not painted the body for my car, so having it backward wouldn't be much of a problem, since I would have to drill holes anyways.

    The sway bar pics will definitely come in handy! Thanks, really appreciate it!
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  40. #40
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    The one I posted above is my second front rear shock tower, ready for if/when my first one fails.

    My first one I used a dremmeled on and letís say it took off a bit more material than I wanted.. although surprisingly it has held up through all my bashing sessions so far...

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