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  1. #1
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    New Rustler 4x4 keeps breaking rear axles.

    All, I am looking for help and advise. Yes I have searched the forum an the consensus is MIP's but unfortunately I have already purchased Integy steel drive shafts before learning about MIP's. Let me start from the beginning.

    1 - In three weeks of owning this truck (New) we have gone threw 4 rear drive shafts using 2s 5500.
    2 - After the 4th shaft I contacted Traxxas and all they would off is it's a "wear" part and to adj. the slipper clutch (have not done this yet).
    3 - We have not raced this truck or jump big air just asphalt, loose dirt and grass.
    4 - I purchased the Integy's (from a local hobby shop) for the front and rear and promptly installed them.
    5 -Kid was super pumped to hopefully not break anymore axles. Let him trip the truck down the street only to watch it vibrate away until maybe 1/2 throttle then it smoothed out. Same thing on the return trip. Other odd part was it wouldn't wheelie anymore and lost speed/power.
    6 - Held the truck in my hands and it physically vibrated and I could see some play in the rear drive shafts.
    7 - Brought the truck to a closer to me hobby shop (not where I got the shafts 1.5 hrs away) showed them what it was doing. Took the rear diff off and looked at the gears which were both good. He did notice the center drive shaft pinion lock screw was loose so we tighten that.
    8 - Also noticed there was a slight warpage to the 55t gear so we changed that too while we were there. put it back together and still the vibration continued.
    9 - Asked for the stock plastic drive shaft parts to assemble what i had left over from the previous broken axles. AND just like that the vibration went away and the truck pulled with normal power.
    10- Contacted the hobby shop where I purchased the drive shaft's and explained all of this to them only to hear those are good shafts and something is not right, your doing it wrong. I asked to return them for MIP's at some kind of loss (i don't expect to get full price for something that has been installed) but they want to inspect the truck 1st which i get.
    11 - My son just called to tell me the 5th stock plastic rear drive shaft has now broken and I am really at my wits end with this thing and i can hear it in his voice too he is frustrated.

    * Note* he has had a 2wd slash for 2 years with no issues what so ever so I am really surprised by the issues I am having, sorry for the long winded post I just wanted you guys to know the whole back story.

    Thank you..

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by murph341 View Post
    All, I am looking for help and advise. Yes I have searched the forum an the consensus is MIP's but unfortunately I have already purchased Integy steel drive shafts before learning about MIP's. Let me start from the beginning.

    1 - In three weeks of owning this truck (New) we have gone threw 4 rear drive shafts using 2s 5500.
    2 - After the 4th shaft I contacted Traxxas and all they would off is it's a "wear" part and to adj. the slipper clutch (have not done this yet).
    3 - We have not raced this truck or jump big air just asphalt, loose dirt and grass.
    4 - I purchased the Integy's (from a local hobby shop) for the front and rear and promptly installed them.
    5 -Kid was super pumped to hopefully not break anymore axles. Let him trip the truck down the street only to watch it vibrate away until maybe 1/2 throttle then it smoothed out. Same thing on the return trip. Other odd part was it wouldn't wheelie anymore and lost speed/power.
    6 - Held the truck in my hands and it physically vibrated and I could see some play in the rear drive shafts.
    7 - Brought the truck to a closer to me hobby shop (not where I got the shafts 1.5 hrs away) showed them what it was doing. Took the rear diff off and looked at the gears which were both good. He did notice the center drive shaft pinion lock screw was loose so we tighten that.
    8 - Also noticed there was a slight warpage to the 55t gear so we changed that too while we were there. put it back together and still the vibration continued.
    9 - Asked for the stock plastic drive shaft parts to assemble what i had left over from the previous broken axles. AND just like that the vibration went away and the truck pulled with normal power.
    10- Contacted the hobby shop where I purchased the drive shaft's and explained all of this to them only to hear those are good shafts and something is not right, your doing it wrong. I asked to return them for MIP's at some kind of loss (i don't expect to get full price for something that has been installed) but they want to inspect the truck 1st which i get.
    11 - My son just called to tell me the 5th stock plastic rear drive shaft has now broken and I am really at my wits end with this thing and i can hear it in his voice too he is frustrated.

    * Note* he has had a 2wd slash for 2 years with no issues what so ever so I am really surprised by the issues I am having, sorry for the long winded post I just wanted you guys to know the whole back story.

    Thank you..
    First off integy has questionable reliability. Most people here switch to Tekno (I just did) or MIP axles. Much better quality. Are you running a 3s battery? If so, unfortunately it's common. The truck is really designed for 2s batteries, and will require upgrading to handle 3s without breaking. That being said, other than axles and bearing carriers, my Rustler 4x4 is stock. I've only replaced things as they break. I'm not easy on it either, lots of tall grass and jumps on a 3s battery.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    I see you mentioned loosening slipper clutch, if you still havenít done that, Iíd highly recommend. That will ease stress on the drive train when you pull the trigger hard.

    Though, there is an art to getting the slipper clutch just right.

    Too tight it will do wheelies and flip too loose and you lose massive acceleration, you have to find the sweet spot.

    Once itís dialed in it should help in the parts failing department.

  4. #4
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    First off, know this : you are NOT alone!

    I find it highly frustrating as well, though i noticed...

    Typically only break rear shafts when bigger tires (sledgehammers) are installed, and/or along-side things like, truck is upside down, so i tried, sadly, a couple different times, to "right" it using my throttle, well ...bigger tires, lots of 3s inertia, and a sudden touch of ballooned tires to any kind of traction INSTANTLY shears the inner shaft u-joint pin off of the outdrive cup.

    Though since breaking 3 or 4, ive learned a few things (besides i need to physically go retrieve my Rusty, as opposed to using self-righting, or similar)...first, when u buy em (parts), buy what needs replaced, AND a backup or two if u can afford/if in-stock. This takes a LOT of the frustration out of having an inoperable toy!

    Also, expect with 3s that things WILL break, even if the "accident" seemed "light/minor"...2-4 minors is a major as far as plastic is concerned.

    Traxxas knew what they were doing, and they make LOADS of cash from over-powered rigs equipped with "wear" (chinsey) parts. Otherwise they would have given the 4x4 VXL Rustlers the same shafts as the XO-1.

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Thank you for taking the time to respond, we have been using a Lipo 2s 5500 this whole time even though my son really wants to try the 3s.
    Update- I removed the rear differential last night and everything looked good but one of the bearings seems to have grease on the outside (facing wheel) so tonight i am going to get 2 new bearings, clean and reinstall. Since we broke another stock drive shaft I am going to re-install the Integy steel drive shafts. I came across the MIP install instructions and in one picture it referenced aligning the pins on the U joints. Not sure if this might apply to the Integy's but at this point its worth a try. After reassembly I am going to watch the slipper clutch video and make that adjustment as well. Side note if you all want a laugh at my expense, you tube really is your friend. After I completely dissembled the rear end of my car I was searching online about the rear diff and low and behold here a couple of video's showing with just a few bolts you gain access to the rear diff. LOL at least this way I'm getting to know the car. Thanks again..

  6. #6
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    Hi I have had this with a set of Traxxas 6852R rear shafts that caused massive vibration issues.
    It will always be a little worse with wheels off ground due to the driveshaft angle but these were not correct.
    Exchanged for customer new set all ok.
    Wheels can go out of balance also if run it wet or inserts moves inside causing this.
    The metal driveshafts have less slop so make any imbalance worse as are not absorbing it like the plastic stock ones do.

  7. #7
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    I have had this problem on my rustler and it got so annoying after i broke 10+ rear sets. I switched to mips in the rear and gpm in the front and never have any problems since. I run my truck hard and jump it 10+ feet all the time. I use 7600mah 3s batteries. I never run 2s.

  8. #8
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    This video might help. The blue rear driveshafts he has seem durable and are cheap.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uStMI2djNJQ

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    This video might help. The blue rear driveshafts he has seem durable and are cheap.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uStMI2djNJQ
    All I have to say is wow!

    https://m.banggood.com/2PCS4PCS-Fron...r_warehouse=CN

    (Link is reference to axles in video).

    Insanely cheap. Similar looking to M.I.P. axles but a fraction of the price. If they hold up, these would be great.

    M.I.P. =$140
    Bangood =18

    M.I.P. are nice, but I still break them on 3Spower. For the high price itís starting to become not worth it.

  10. #10
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    Oops, my bad. Should have watch the video to the end. Absolute crap driveshafts.

  11. #11
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    One great thing about the mips are they sell parts for them. Even though i never broke one of mine on 3s even if i do i can get the part replaced.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier GotNoRice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    M.I.P. are nice, but I still break them on 3Spower. For the high price itís starting to become not worth it.
    Not sure how you are breaking your MIP axles on 3s. I and many others have sets that are 7+ years old. They work great on my Slash 4x4 Monster Truck (heavier than a Rustler 4x4) on 4s LiPo. The two times I've broken an MIP part was when I went full throttle into a wooden pillar and then also while trying cheap hub extensions that put all the stress on the very outside of the stub axle. What are you doing to break yours exactly?

    Also, it's nice that when you break an MIP part, you can simply replace just that part. Other cheaper CVDs don't sell individual replacement parts, so you basically have to buy whole new CVDs each time.

  13. #13
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  14. #14
    RC Qualifier GotNoRice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    I think these have something to do with it.
    Nice tires. But the fact that you are running 2.8 Monster Truck tires does not provide any explanation as to why your MIP CVDs are breaking. I've used 2.8" Monster Truck tires with my MIP CVDs for the entire 9 years that I've had them. I don't think that there is much weight/mass difference between those 2.8 Badlands and the 2.8 Trenchers that I use.

  15. #15
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    I was talking about these driveshafts https://www.banggood.com/2PC-Traxxas...r_warehouse=CN. Not the ones he installed in the video. The ones that he tried out were really bad, but I think the blue ones were better.

  16. #16
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    All here's an up date:
    Victory, so I stopped at the hobby shop to get new rear Differential bearings and they guys asked why. Told him all the issues I have been having and I'm out of ideas. He mentioned the bearings were fine (truck is now 4 weeks old) and he thought the Integys were a crap shoot. Sometimes their good and other times not so much (build quality), bought another set of stock plastic heavy duty's and home I went. During my research I found this picture from MIP when in stalling their drive shafts.

    I noticed that you must align the pins:
    http://www.miponline.com/assets/imag...inst-18140.pdf.

    These are the drive shafts I got:
    https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?...9#.X23WXmhKiUk

    So using the MIPS directions I aligned the pins on the Integys and walla no more vibration. Now there is a very small vibration right off the throttle but I have heard this is a thing and I can live with it. So it appears that not having these pins aligned caused a major out of balance for the shafts. I checked the slipper clutch and it was 3/4 turns out from bottom and that is what Traxxas recommend for high traction surface. Again I thank everyone that had responded and here's to no more drive shaft's breaks but somehow I don't believe this is the end of the story. Stay tuned......
    Last edited by murph341; 09-25-2020 at 06:47 AM.

  17. #17
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    Check the clearance of the driveshaft near the A Arm - mine were hitting - I had to Dremel the A Arm a bit - The driveshafts can hit the A Arm and break them

  18. #18
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  19. #19
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    have you vented your tires?the vent holes in the rims suck in dirt and then it gets stuck in the tires.they could be the cause of your vibrations.

  20. #20
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    I'm back not by choice!!

    Well we have now broken both rear steel Integy steel rear drive shafts. The right rear sheared the u joint pin at the differential end on Sunday while driving on a carpet track with 1 small jump. Now last night the left rear drive shaft broke at the same place while driving in the grass with no jump. So say I'm ready to set this thing on fire is an understatement. So now i'm left with a dilemma, my local shop has the Traxxas steel drive shafts but but I'd have to order the MIP's. My son doesn't bash his truck but does use the 3s and 2s batteries. Can the Traxxas shafts handle the 3s or should i just order the MIP.

    Don't flame me for this question i know it's covered on this forum but again it's mixxed reviews. I know this is a hobby and hobbys cost money but continously buying drive shafts that are expensive is no more fun than beating your head against the wall. I have read the replies and clearence is not an issue and the tires are still stock with nothing stuck inside. I even turned the slipper clutch 1 full turn out to lessen the torque.

    Again thank you for the reply's!

  21. #21
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    I've replaced the rear driveshafts on my Stampede 4x4 and Slash 4x4 with the Tekno M6 (+ alu hex adapters).

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