Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    3

    Just picked up a 2.0 after 15+ years out of the hobby...recommendations?

    Aaaaannnd holy COW this thing is stupid fast compared to my 2.5 t maxx I had!!! It seems faster than my 2.5 4tech! Which I still have but haven’t run it in 10ish years. Lol

    Looking for tips, good parts, upgrades.

    Rear suspension seems too soft out the box for sure on loose terrain.

  2. #2
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    beaverton oregon
    Posts
    1,520
    Welcome back to the hobby.

    Preload your springs some. I push car down till chassis on ground and preload till just before springs are fully compressed. So about half way. May want to try different springs in rear. But will never get chassis slap eliminated

    Good batteries,. A ir gun if you don't have one and perhaps a the bt link module. Keep mother under 180° and esc under 170°

    To get motor temps on bt link also have to get the sensor and mounting bracket.

    I gotten a yeah racing heat sink and fan yet to put in but it's what ppl go towards.

    Single servo set up is ideal. 300oz or better at 6v. Depending on how you treat it servos may be first thing to go.

    Those of use with Badland mx38 tires enjoy them but are heavier. I wrap mine with 500lb kevlar string to keep from ballooning but they got belted versions now. Awesome hookup on dirt / loose stuff.

    Don't use self righting unless you want to fix things sooner than later. Like diffs and tires.


    Some of use with older v2 that don't have the 8619 heavy duty push rod links ( stock on new cars now) we used suspension straps and other mods to keep from pulling out rod ends and shock ends. As this is a new part they came out with 6 months ago. Seems to be solving the issues.


    Rpm a arms as you break stock.

    Tsm gives ppl fits some times. So if steering seem to act up turn tsm off.

    Otherwise it's pretty solid and drive it like you stole it.



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Welcome back to the hobby.

    Preload your springs some. I push car down till chassis on ground and preload till just before springs are fully compressed. So about half way. May want to try different springs in rear. But will never get chassis slap eliminated

    Good batteries,. A ir gun if you don't have one and perhaps a the bt link module. Keep mother under 180° and esc under 170°

    To get motor temps on bt link also have to get the sensor and mounting bracket.

    I gotten a yeah racing heat sink and fan yet to put in but it's what ppl go towards.

    Single servo set up is ideal. 300oz or better at 6v. Depending on how you treat it servos may be first thing to go.

    Those of use with Badland mx38 tires enjoy them but are heavier. I wrap mine with 500lb kevlar string to keep from ballooning but they got belted versions now. Awesome hookup on dirt / loose stuff.

    Don't use self righting unless you want to fix things sooner than later. Like diffs and tires.


    Some of use with older v2 that don't have the 8619 heavy duty push rod links ( stock on new cars now) we used suspension straps and other mods to keep from pulling out rod ends and shock ends. As this is a new part they came out with 6 months ago. Seems to be solving the issues.


    Rpm a arms as you break stock.

    Tsm gives ppl fits some times. So if steering seem to act up turn tsm off.

    Otherwise it's pretty solid and drive it like you stole it.



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Thanks for all the killer info! I have to learn a lot about lipo batteries and everything! I got the Traxxas 3s battery’s and charger.

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    33
    I run zip ties from the top of the body mount to the middle support in the rear arms to prevent the suspension from over travel and destroying the shocks and rod ends. All of the rod ends are perfect after 2 shock rebuilds to change oil and springs.

    I threw on silver front springs, pink rear springs, 50wt oil, #2 variable damping kit piston front, #3 vdk piston rear, TiN shafts, and jato dirt covers to keep the dirt out of the shocks. They've been perfect. Maybe a tad to stiff under 10mph, handles really well at high speeds, can handle larger jumps with out bottoming so hard, but still slaps nasty on really good jumps.

    Like Acidic01, I have a yeah racing/power hobby (same heatsink really) heatsink dual fan combo. It's a very important upgrade. Stock, I was reaching 180+ too quickly on the motor. Threw on the dual fan heatsink and the motor never runs over 160f, but typically 135-150f. Took off the heatsink after someone on this forum said heatsinks need thermal paste to test it and used a castle blower shroud with 35mm fan, same fan I use on my heatsink now, and it ran 30f hotter and I shut it down at 185f with the pack not even halfway depleted (16 minutes of runtime). Threw the heatsink back on while the motor was 160f, not advisable, and it quickly heated up to 145f and the motor was the same temp as the heatsink. With fans running the heatsink remains 10f cooler than the motor because the fans are moving the heat away and creating a gradient. Threw the fans back on and by that time the motor cooled to 120f, so I went and ran the back to low voltage cutoff. Got up to 155f tops and ran for 22 minutes. All the times were taken from my nest doorbell cameras since I bashed right in from of my home. 6.2ah 3s hobbystar packs were what I used. I've never gotten the stock esc over 160f even geared to 60mph. It does a great job with heat. I tried using a powerhobby high rpm fan that was definitely louder on the esc for even more cooling headroom and it didn't work as well, so I took the 35x35x10 fan and run it on my motors heatsink instead of 2 30x30x10 fans. Seems to work almost as well as 2 fans but better than the 1 30mm fan.

    Again, like what Acidic01 said, get a temp gun. My stock esc says its 92f when cold in a 74f room. It was saying 165f and my temp gun was saying 145f. I had the traxxas temp sensor that plugs into the receiver but somewhere along the way it stopped working.

    I bought extra rod ends and push rod ends in case of a failure, and purchased lunsford racing titanium turnbuckles. I didn't get their kit just 2 of them for $35 instead of the kid of 4 for $55. Zero failures on the rod ends or push rods, but the lunsford racing is lifetime warranty, and I have the stock units to throw on in the event of a failure.

    Lastly, the stock tires are horribly out of balance. Even my replacement tires, since I completely wore through a set of stock tires, were horrible out of balance. So get a wheel balancer an balancing clay. cheap, easy, and will help to minimize the horrible shaking an unbalanced tire can cause. Get extra clay though. It's cheap enough and whenever I rotate my tires I rebalance them. I use the team associated kit.

    Edit: Here is a link to my zip tie setup if you want to see... https://youtu.be/dDAOkaF7fW4

    also to note, the stock servos are utter garbage. What I did was run them til the both were fried, called traxxas, send them in, and then sold the new in bag servos I got back for $50 on ebay and bought 2 power HD 20kg servos for $43. Or you can get a single servo for half that price and run a single unit, but I ran a single 2250 traxxas servo from my rock crawler after the stock 2075 failures and it ran really hot which is why I still run 2 servos.

    Quote Originally Posted by ToyotaTyler View Post
    Aaaaannnd holy COW this thing is stupid fast compared to my 2.5 t maxx I had!!! It seems faster than my 2.5 4tech! Which I still have but haven’t run it in 10ish years. Lol

    Looking for tips, good parts, upgrades.

    Rear suspension seems too soft out the box for sure on loose terrain.
    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Welcome back to the hobby.

    Preload your springs some. I push car down till chassis on ground and preload till just before springs are fully compressed. So about half way. May want to try different springs in rear. But will never get chassis slap eliminated

    Good batteries,. A ir gun if you don't have one and perhaps a the bt link module. Keep mother under 180° and esc under 170°

    To get motor temps on bt link also have to get the sensor and mounting bracket.

    I gotten a yeah racing heat sink and fan yet to put in but it's what ppl go towards.

    Single servo set up is ideal. 300oz or better at 6v. Depending on how you treat it servos may be first thing to go.

    Those of use with Badland mx38 tires enjoy them but are heavier. I wrap mine with 500lb kevlar string to keep from ballooning but they got belted versions now. Awesome hookup on dirt / loose stuff.

    Don't use self righting unless you want to fix things sooner than later. Like diffs and tires.


    Some of use with older v2 that don't have the 8619 heavy duty push rod links ( stock on new cars now) we used suspension straps and other mods to keep from pulling out rod ends and shock ends. As this is a new part they came out with 6 months ago. Seems to be solving the issues.


    Rpm a arms as you break stock.

    Tsm gives ppl fits some times. So if steering seem to act up turn tsm off.

    Otherwise it's pretty solid and drive it like you stole it.



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Last edited by TheFirestarter; 09-25-2020 at 03:46 PM. Reason: Added link and servo info

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •