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  1. #41
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I hook the spring together to itself first. Then I take the spring and install on the clutch shoes. Then I slowly push the assembly on the flywheel pins. I use a small tool to insert in the holes to help move the springs out of the way as I'm pushing them on. Also I install my shoes in a leading edge configuration.

    Here is a diagram I made. This is looking at the flywheel side of engine. Don't pay attention to all the extra stuff in it as I use it for different occasions, lol.

    leadvstrail

  2. #42
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    This diagram is awesome. Thank you very much

  3. #43
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    I finally have all the parts and installed the TRX 3.3 engine today. It only took a few seconds to start up.
    I ran through tanks 1-4 as per the break-in instructions. The day was called on account of darkness.
    So I will finish the rest of the procedure tomorrow.

    I have a few questions, or observations, if that is ok. I have not done a new engine break-in since I was a kid.

    Notes:
    After tank one the glow plug fowled. I tried to start it to do tank two and it would not run on any throttle. It would run for a second or two then stall. So I changed the glow plug and we were off running again.
    1) Is this common?

    There seems to be a lot of heat transfer from the clutch bell to the plastic gears. Between runs the new plastic gears would bela part of a tooth and jam the works. So I have to clean the debris before the next run.
    2) Any idea what is causing this ?
    3) Does anyone make metal gears to alleviate this problem?

    I am going to the hobby store tomorrow to buy more glow plugs so I can continue the run-in. More to come tomorrow

  4. #44
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    1. Yes it's normal. During break in it's not uncommon to go through a glow plug or two.

    2. I'm not sure. I don't have an 4tec. I would check your gear mesh. Make sure it's not set too tight. If your breaking teeth it could be too loose.

  5. #45
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    What is the procedure to set the gear mesh?

  6. #46
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    I ran through tanks 5 and 6. It runs really good but has a little bog on acceleration. It I blip the throttle during initial acceleration it keeps going. If I try to keep accelerating it will bog and stall.

    I had to stop the runs today due to excessive weekend traffic.

  7. #47
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvr4 View Post
    What is the procedure to set the gear mesh?
    Sorry for the late response. If your unsure with setting them yourself, the best method is to take a piece of notebook paper and put it between the gears and push the gears together and tighten the motor down. Then pull the paper out and it should look like a zig-zag pattern. This paper trick sets the gap between the gears without guessing.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Sorry for the late response. If your unsure with setting them yourself, the best method is to take a piece of notebook paper and put it between the gears and push the gears together and tighten the motor down. Then pull the paper out and it should look like a zig-zag pattern. This paper trick sets the gap between the gears without guessing.
    I like procedures that simplify the process. I looked at this today but am a little confused at the two additional screws that hold the motor mount. There are 4 screws that slide to allow the motor mount to move.

    But there are two additional screws tat seem to stop the motor mount from sliding. If I remove these two screws the motor mount will slide.
    But if I adjust the gear mesh, by loosening the 4 sliding screws, will I be able to install those screws again?

  9. #49
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I found this in the manual, on page 32.




    Here is a link to manual: https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...7_manual_0.pdf

    Looks like you loosen those two other screws. Then retighten to help hold it from moving.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post

    Looks like you loosen those two other screws. Then retighten to help hold it from moving.
    I tried this and the motor mount will not move unless I completely remove the two end screws.
    If I then adjust the gear mesh the two outer screws will not go back

  11. #51
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Are you using one of the gear ratio combos shown in the above chart? Are those two screws self-tapping?
    Sorry if the questions are off base, never owned a 4tec so I can only visualize by looking at the exploded view.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Are you using one of the gear ratio combos shown in the above chart? Are those two screws self-tapping?
    .
    Yes I am using the stock gear ratio

    Screws are not self tapping. The screws go through the chassis, through each end of the motor mount then into the plastic frames on either side

  13. #53
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Anyway to take a picture? It looks like the mount is slotted and should slid on those screws.

    If you take out those 2 screws and do the adjustment what is stopping the screws from going back in? Did the motor mount move more than it should? Is the motor mount twisting when you try to adjust?

    Maybe try a thin strip of paper when adjusting. Just enough for one set of gears rather than trying both at the same time. If one set of gears is set the other will be too.

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