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  1. #1
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    Left rear wheel nut always loose

    Left rear wheel nut always gets loose the other wheels are fine after a couple passes. I used blue lock tight and then tried it with a lock washer it still comes loose.also I tried a new wheel nut. Could my rear diff need a rebuild already? I have about 10 runs on this car bought it new.

    4x4 slash vxl on 3s. 12t pinion

  2. #2
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Have you tried putting the "loose" wheel nut on other wheels, and seeing what happens?


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  3. #3
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    I add a little blue locktight on my axle stubs when installing wheel nuts
    Rustler 4x4 powered by MambaX

  4. #4
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    Thats nuts! Just a tip: always take spares. Don’t let one loose nut ruin your run

  5. #5
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    I’ll try the bad wheel nut on another side ��

  6. #6
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jrz13 View Post
    I add a little blue locktight on my axle stubs when installing wheel nuts
    Not necessarily a good idea. Wheel nuts topically come in to varieties: all-metal, and Nylock nuts.

    The all-metal nuts are usually found only on slow-moving vehicles, such as crawlers, as there's very little chance of them backing themselves off the axle drive. However, some (myself, occasionally, included) will use a little Loctite, just to make sure (say, during a crawling comp).

    Nylock nuts, on the other hand, are what's typically found on fast-moving vehicles. These have small nylon inserts along the outer edge of the nut, and are designed to 'grip' the axle stub. With Nylock nuts, not only do you not need Loctite, you NEVER want to use Loctite, as it will destroy the nylon.

    Quote Originally Posted by Slashn4x4 View Post
    Iíll try the bad wheel nut on another side ��
    I didn't just mean "the other side"...I was suggesting testing all 4 nuts on all 4 wheels. Start with the nuts on the wheels you had them on, them rotate the nuts one wheel in...say...a clockwise direction, testing them on those wheels, while running the vehicle through a battery. Then one more clockwise rotation test, and, finally, one more clockwise test. And, do this without using Loctite.

    At that point, you will have had each of the 4 nuts on each of the 4 axle stubs, will have run that 'setup' through a battery, and will see whether, or not, the nut holds. Also...and, as I pointed out to Jrz13, you should check the nuts to determine if they're Nylock nuts, or standard metal nuts. Nylock nuts DO wear out, and need to be replaced every-so-often, as the nylon ring eventually loses its 'gripping' ability after being installed/removed so many times (higher quality lasts longer, as well).

    The other thing I'm potentially suspecting is that, for some unknown reason, you might have one axle stub that is slightly smaller in diameter than the other three (I know...very strange, but not impossible). By rotating the nuts, this should help determine that. If the same nut keeps coming loose, no matter which wheel it's on, then the "problem" is the nut, and you should simply replace it with a new nut. On the other hand, if that nut holds on the other 3 axle stubs, but each of the other three nuts has the same problem on that one particular axle stub, then the "problem" is with the axle stub, itself. I had this happen with one of my vehicles, which is exactly why I know (however rare the possibility) that such is possible. After replacing the axles (I upgraded all 4 to MIP), I never had that problem again.


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Bean View Post
    Thats nuts! Just a tip: always take spares. Donít let one loose nut ruin your run
    The loose nut behind the controller always ruins my run!

    Rustler 4x4 VXL

  8. #8
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    This just seems like the margin of error on cut threads. Sometimes you get a really well cut thread where it is actually too smooth to grip well. And other times they are cut so bad threads bond to the nuts from just slight corrosion or snap off easy mid thread. I would just use a solid metal nut and threadlocker on that wheel till the stub axle breaks and you have a reason to replace it.

  9. #9
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    When my slash ultimate was new, on the second battery through it, I lost a wheel nut. I had already tightened them out of the box and they are the serrated nylon lock nut. Tightened it back down and tried again and after two batteries I had that one loose and another also. I took blue loctite to them and have never had an issue since - just my experience.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    As the old, old RC guy, I have found that I really have to crank down on that nut to keep it in place. It could be that you are not giving it enough force to have the serrations engage into the plastic of the wheel. I use aluminum hexes and aggressive serrated nylon lock nuts with blue thread lock dry tape. I now very infrequently have a loose fastener nowadays. Well, as GTSDart340 knows, I can't do anything about the loose nut working the controller!
    Obstacle Magnet

  11. #11
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    Back when my Rustler was my main basher I would loose wheel nuts all the time! That darn thing had so much power in the back wheels that the nuts would just throw themselves off every run! I tightened down those wheels so hard that eventually there was barely any plastic holding the rims on the hexes. I had to put washers on from there on, ironically that solved my problem of the wheel nuts backing off.
    The present is theirs; the future, is mine.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    I had a problem with wheel nuts coming lose. I put red Loctite and that solved my problem. I use aluminum rims and would tighten them a lot to no avail.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I had a problem with wheel nuts coming lose. I put red Loctite and that solved my problem. I use aluminum rims and would tighten them a lot to no avail.
    You solved the problem, but at what cost?
    The present is theirs; the future, is mine.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElectricPropils View Post
    You solved the problem, but at what cost?
    Loctite is pretty cheap. For the amount he used I would guess it didn't cost him more than a few cents.

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Loctite is like 7 or 8 bucks at walmart I think. It might be closer to 10. I cant remember to be honest. But if you put a dab of blue about halfway back or a little closer to the base of the stud, and let it dry, youll be good im sure.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by smeezy View Post
    Loctite is pretty cheap. For the amount he used I would guess it didn't cost him more than a few cents.
    Oh, my bad, I should've better emphasized that it was joke. I said that because Red Loctite is supposed to be permanent and he will have a hard time getting it off.
    The present is theirs; the future, is mine.

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    I use red loctite on my screws that are set into my aluminum parts. The ones that kept coming out anyways. Its not too hard to remove them.

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  18. #18
    Traxxas Marshal
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    Whenever I have trouble with wheel nuts backing off, I use un-flanged lock nuts and install them "backwards."
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElectricPropils View Post
    Oh, my bad, I should've better emphasized that it was joke. I said that because Red Loctite is supposed to be permanent and he will have a hard time getting it off.
    They come off rather easily if you use a ratchet and a #seven socket.
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