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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Nitro Revo 3.3 Kit build...

    Someone gave me a Nitro Revo 3.3 "kit" Had 3.3 and OS 2.1 engine



    Should I build it back as a Nitro, or Electric?
    Last edited by NitroBugg; 10-11-2020 at 07:33 PM.

  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    why ask? Nitro.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    why ask? Nitro.
    Good answer!

    It gets a bath this week, and a thorough parts inspection and see what's broken or missing. Then I start making a parts list. Bearings, shock kits, and diffs kits will be on the top of the list. Need a pipe coupler too. Its missing. After that, will take it a section at a time. Should be a fun project!

    And, looks like the crankshaft on both engines have been modified, so you can only use a started box (I have one luckily).

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    EDIT...the manifold gasket is missing, not the pipe coupler. My bad. Most of the parts are clean now, will do the rest tonight.

    Question: Do you guys normally run the stock twin servo setup for steering, or use a high torque single servo?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroBugg View Post
    EDIT...the manifold gasket is missing, not the pipe coupler. My bad. Most of the parts are clean now, will do the rest tonight.

    Question: Do you guys normally run the stock twin servo setup for steering, or use a high torque single servo?
    I would probably get a single high torque servo if you don't already have the stock twin servo setup.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier nebulous.cow's Avatar
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    If you have the option, and a kick butt servo, single servo is the way to go. I had servos from my 3D helicopter days, and a middle of the road heli servo turns out to be an epic car servo. Brushless HV digital is the best, but the servo was $170.

    The dual stock setup isnt too bad, but if you are in need of fixing it, I would just go with one good one. Obviously you dont need to spend a fortune on that servo, but more is usually better from a big name company. Just look at the torque numbers and speed and make sure it's in the realm of at least 2-3x the torque of the two stock servos put together, otherwise you're wasting your time and money.

    I think my servo is 0.08 transit time, and 530 oz/in of torque, and it's overkill. The torque is astronomical, Im certain my servo saver doesn't even let me take advantage of the power. But it drives awesome.

    -Mike

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Sounds like a great idea to me. This truck didn't come with any electronics. So a steering servo would be all I need. I have a spare 2075 I can use for the throttle, and don't plan to have a reverse. Also have a spare Traxxas transmitter and receiver, so I'm good there too.

    Wheel bearings were fair on the back, but the fronts were toast. Axles don't slide as smoothly as I like, and feels like it has some high spots that need attention. Axle carriers are worn badly, and if replace those, I will also get some new pivot balls too.

    Truck isn't too bad overall though, and from the looks of it, the last driver had a GREAT time driving it, and sure I will too once completed.

    Guess I can label this a "build" thread now?

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Have a few parts I'm about to order to get this project going:

    1.) 5379X, 3978, and 5382X (hope these are the right ones. Are they the same front and rear?
    2.) Bearing Set or Singles (FastEddy? or either stock Traxxas ones)
    3.) Complete Front and Rear Axle Carrier Assemblies (or parts to build them)
    4.) 5459 Axle boots (2 sets)
    5.) 5462 Shock Kits (2 kits)

    This should be enough to keep me busy for a few days.

  9. #9
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    I would recommend rebuilding the diffs (which are same f/r) to the E-Revo/E-Maxx specs (which you have referenced the part numbers). See here: https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-ML-121120.pdf Not a whole lot different but much stronger to hold up to bigger power (I run an O.S. .21TM).

    Bearing set: I've used Avid RC and they do have the option of buying a full set.
    The Super Derecho

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    All parts ordered for stage one. I'm guessing middle of next week before they arrive.

    Think I'm going to use the .21TM that was in the pile also. Somewhere in the attic, I have an old engine stand that I used for my planes, and will mount the engine on that, attach the header and pipe, attach a prop to it to give it some load, and make a "test run".

    Might do the same for the 3.3 as well. Compression on both engines seem to be ok. Pistons and sleeves look pretty good. Aren't scored, or show signs of overheating. But if needed, I can always get another sleeve and piston.

    One thing though...this Revo has a HECK of a lot more parts to deal with than my Slash.

  11. #11
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Very nice! Enjoy building it. Thatís half the fun to me

    100% nitro. Electric is fun and easy but there is just something about nitro. Plus, it saddens me to see a nitro converted to electric.

  12. #12
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    I agree. If you want an electric, go buy an electric, don't ruin a perfectly good nitro.

    For me, I love nitro. It feels so much more rewarding than an electric. On the other hand if you don't have a lot of time to spend tuning and maintaining nitro, electric would be for you.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Building is probably about 60%-70% of the fun for me. And Nitro has been my passion since I was 10 or so. I have 1 other Nitro buggy and love it. Like the sound of a good tuned engine, and the smell of Nitro I guess. If I want electric, I have 4 of those to choose from. Two slashes, and two other brands.

    Had enough parts to build one diff, and after getting it in the housing, mounted in the retainer, and attached to the chassis, I noticed the diff housing itself rattles a little inside the housing, and seems to have a lot of slop inside. Is this normal? I can see inside the retainer where there are scraped marks in certain areas on the inside and I assumed they were made for the same reason. Too much slop? Any way to correct this? New retainer? The diff itself fits snug in the housing. Just loose in the retainer.
    Last edited by NitroBugg; 10-17-2020 at 08:38 PM.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Had my terms wrong. The wobbling was inside the bulkhead, not the retainer. Found the actual "retainer", and once that was installed, the housing is nice and snug now inside the bulkhead, and no rattle.

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    1.) Question about the rear brakes. I will be bashing and NOT racing. The guy that gave me this raced it, and had the rear brakes, center diff, and the FOC mod. For bashing, would I need either of these? FOC, yes. Brakes maybe? CD no?, since I will be using it for bashing only, or does having rear brakes require the CD too?

    Don't have the straight shaft since he had a CD, so I may have to buy the whole FOC kit again to get the straight shaft and eliminate the CD if I go that route.

    2.) Is there a preference as to which side to mount a single steering servo to? Thinking receiver box side?

    Opinions?

  16. #16
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Forward only removes the center differential and you will have no need for the rear brakes. Front brake handles all the braking. If you ran a CD but no rear brake then braking would happen in front only.

    Servo placement for your preference. I have it on the right/passenger/receiver side.
    The Super Derecho

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Had a few suspension questions...

    The rear arms have two holes to mount the knuckles. Should I use the front, or rear holes, and what does it adjust? Overall length of the vehicle? Looks like the rear arms are 5333R, and not stock 5333.

    Also, I assume I have the P2 rockers, (says it on the top), but the REAR rockers have a pivot ball mounted on it? Never seen this before. Is that a special mod or something? Not sure what it does. I only have 8 links...(4) 128mm, and (4) 102mm.



    As far as shock springs, the only ones I have on hand without ordering more are Pink, Purple, Green, and White.

    Been looking at the Sladen Revo 3.3 setup sheet, and will use that as a starting point, (Seems to be 2 versions of it) along with tips I gather from this forum. Still waiting on FOC kit, and the shock rebuild kits. Ordered them over a week ago, and looks like it may take another 4-5 days to get them. Local hobby store is out of both items, and the next nearest RC shop is about 120 miles, all for (2) $5.00 shock kits. I can wait.

  18. #18
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Just by going to the main site and searching for the part number...

    Here's the description of the 5333R:

    Add an additional 10mm or 19mm of wheelbase extension to Revo, E-Revo and Summit in just minutes! Traxxas makes it easy by building the adjustment into the rear arms. Installation is a snap and the wheelbase can be quickly tuned trackside for any conditions. Select either 10mm or 19mm of extension by simply repositioning the pivot ball locations. Requires #5153R drive cups when using 5451R driveshafts.
    Instructions: https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-arms-INST.pdf

    The screws on the rockers are for Traxxas sway bars.
    The Super Derecho

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Ah, ok. Thank you! I went to the exploded views, and didn't look up the actual part itself. An oversight on my part. Guess I'll start with 19mm and go from there.

    I have to say though....this is WAY more complicated than working on a Sl4sh.

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    That pile of parts don't look so bad now...



    When my next batch of parts come in, I will finish the shocks and transmission. That will leave me with selecting a steering and throttle servo (The 2075 may work for throttle), installing engine and electronics, and decide on what tires I want to run. (Ones on it now have lots of splits in the sidewalls)

    Have a body on the way too, and will decide how I want to paint it. So hopefully in the next 3-4 weeks, I'll be able to take it for a test drive. Been a fun and challenging project so far.

    Right now, the only way to start the engine is bump start (crank has been modified), so I may end up ordering another crankshaft and install the pull start I have.

  21. #21
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Looks great so far. Canít wait to see it completed.

    I run a single servo as well and on the receiver side. As for wheels/tires I am really liking the Arrma Backflips. Basically a Proline Badland but cheaper. Iíve ran them in the past.

    Also have a set up Proline Big Joes. Theyíre ok but not my favorite as theyíre heaving a very wide.

    Here is a comparison between the two...

  22. #22
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    You can't go wrong with Badlands tires. They are my tire of choice.

  23. #23
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    You can't go wrong with Badlands tires. They are my tire of choice.
    I agree. Have ran them on multiple applications and have never let me down.

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    Nice tires! I like both of those sets. I have the 2.2/3.0 version of Badlands on my Bug. And my other rig, I run Trenchers so I can run them on the street some too without ruining the treads.

    Cheaper might win this time. I've looked at about a dozen different ones so far. So many to choose from. Even the stock Traxxas Revo wheels\tires look ok too. Running 17mm hexes, so that will narrow down my choices some. I can always put my JConcepts Renegades on there? Its a 5.6" size tire.

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Finally got the FOC parts kit in (for ONE gear) so I got the transmission assembled. But the plus of having that extra gear now is, I can build a center diff if I ever want to try it out one day.

    I assembled everything loosely for the "pic", but, will be replacing the crankshaft when the new one comes in for use with a pull start. Will get the shocks assembled and installed tomorrow probably. Steering servo and new pipe ordered too.

    Getting there....


  26. #26
    RC Racer
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    Looking good. What did you finally go with for steering servo?

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Went with the Savox SV-1270TG. Have one on my Bomber, and it works VERY well. Will twist the wheels off if you don't set the endpoints correctly.

    Will only be running a 6V flat pack, so torque will be about 361, and speed about .14. At 7.4, it will do 487/11.

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Besides the monster truck tires, I want to get some street tires too. What I'm looking to do is, I want larger tires on the rear, and smaller tires on the front. (mainly for aesthetics)

    Maybe something like Road Rages, or Street Fighters. I can find the 3.8's, but not sure the 2.8's will clear the axle carriers, and they may be TOO small for this truck. Any suggestions?

    EDIT: Tried one off my Slash and it fit ok with no scrubbing.
    Last edited by NitroBugg; 10-31-2020 at 02:16 PM.

  29. #29
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Just be wary of running different size tires. You would need to disconnect the front or rear drive shaft and run it in 2WD with different size tires. If just for looks no need to disconnect drive shaft.

    Can't wait till you get this fired up.

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Wasn't thinking about the effect of different circumferences being an issue until you mentioned it. Good catch.

    Getting close. Waiting on my pipe and steering servo, so should be ready to test after that I hope. Have some old tires (ones it came with) that will work until I can decide on which ones I want to run. Also planning on what body and paint scheme to use.

  31. #31
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I like the Big rear/Smaller front look also. I decided it was just easier to get a Jato,LoL. I'm more off road.


  32. #32
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    Jato is a fun truck to drive. My son's friend has one, and he brings it over every now and then.

    About decided on Road Rages for my build. Guess I will go with the 3.8's, and want to get some chrome spoked wheels to go along with it, so was looking at the Geodes, Hurricane's, Gemini's, and Split Spoke. Would these look ok on a street tire? And do the Geodes HAVE to be used with the sidewall ring?

    Also, would 2.8's be too small for the Revo?

  33. #33
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroBugg View Post
    Jato is a fun truck to drive. My son's friend has one, and he brings it over every now and then.

    About decided on Road Rages for my build. Guess I will go with the 3.8's, and want to get some chrome spoked wheels to go along with it, so was looking at the Geodes, Hurricane's, Gemini's, and Split Spoke. Would these look ok on a street tire? And do the Geodes HAVE to be used with the sidewall ring?
    Pick which wheel you like the best. I don't believe you need to have the rings on. They are not beadlocks but more of a rim edge protector. They came out originally for the Traxxas Summit to go along with the body exocage for the overall "rugged" look.

    Also, would 2.8's be too small for the Revo?
    If the wheels go on the carriers it wouldn't matter what the tire diameter is. The axle carriers are about 2.5". You could have 3.8 tires that are a smaller diameter than 2.8 tires. You would adjust your gearing to accommodate whatever size tire you went with.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
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    I got one set of the Road Rage 3.8's in, but its been a week and the other set hasn't shipped yet. Hopefully they will be on the way soon. They are about the same height as the Crime Fighter MT's that it came with, but are 5mm wider. Think I will like them.

    Finally got the crankshaft in for the 21TM, so now I can add a pull start, or maybe a robo-start device. Never been a fan of the starter box.

    Haven't decided on the shell, or what colors I want to paint it yet, so still looking.

    All in all, this has been\is a very fun project. Been taking my time, and since I started with a pile of parts, I know where most everything goes now, and when maintenance time comes, I will know what to take apart, and what to leave as is. Also, I appreciate all of the tips from the "Revo Veterans" as well. I've learned a lot.


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