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  1. #1
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    I have issues - Spartan related!

    Hi all, over the last few months I've installed a few of the Hot Racing upgrades on my Spartan, battery coolers, motor jacket, fins, trim tabs and splash guard. More for looks than anything else but the battery coolers were to help prevent my LiPos from puffing on a hot day. I can't seem to get the Hot Racing rudder so I'm still running the stock rudder. I had to make another outlet on the right side of the boat for one of the coolers.

    Question about these, do they have any negative impact to performance?

    Which leads me onto my main issue, I've just returned from the lake and I couldn't get my Spartan to run right. It seemed very down on power, the nose wasn't picking up on 4S or 6S. I wound in the trim tables and played around with the prop angle but nothing made a difference. After a few minutes of running around in the water, the power would suddenly go to almost LVC speeds... Blipping the throttle would bring it back to life for a very short while before going to LVC speeds again. These were fresh batteries and it did it on 2 completely different sets. Could it be time for an ESC upgrade?

    It's running a Prather S215 prop.

    Hope that waffle makes some sense!

    Cheers,

    Will
    Last edited by spartan_will; 10-12-2020 at 11:10 AM.

  2. #2
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    This video will hopefully highlight the LVC type behaviour - https://youtu.be/cWyKg7OMQpo

    This is running on 6S which seems about 4S speed and you can see it cutting all power. I have to blip the throttle again to get the power to come back but only for a second or 2. These are fresh LiPos too so it's not a battery issue.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    You have several potential problems. The best way to setup a boat is to do one mod at a time. When you do a bunch of mods all at one time (if you have a problem) it's harder to figure out. I suggest going back to stock with your turn fins, trim tabs, and no second water pickup, and confirm that your boat runs as it should. You can leave your slash guard and cooling jacket on, because I'm sure you're okay there. Slash guards and cooling jackets have nothing to do with water flow.

    From there I'd just install your turn fins, see how your boat runs, and adjust as needed. Then I would install your trim tabs, and repeat the same steps. From there, I'd install your water pickup. When you do, the way you install a water pickup is by making sure that the very bottom of the pickup is no lower than one piece of paper thickness below the boat's hull to no higher than one piece of paper thickness above the boat's hull. Anything lower will causes drag, and anything causes less water flow.

    I strongly suggest doing what it takes to get and use a dual port rudder rather than a pickup. From there, my last suggestion is to use your duel water pickup rudder ports to cool your motor and ESC rather than your batteries. You don't (IMO) really need battery coolers, if you shorten all your battery, ESC, and motor wires; you install a CC Cap Pack; and do the duel water cooling mod for separate cooling lines for your motor and ESC. From what I've always experienced, if you keep the temperatures of your electronic components reasonable your battery temps will be just find without the need for them to be water cooled.





    P.S. I forgot to mention your rudder. I'd go back to stock with that also. The Prather S215 prop is a little smaller and has a little more pitch than stock. If I remember right, I didn't really care for how it ran with my Spartan. I will check my notes, and get back to you on it and what props worked the best for me.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 10-13-2020 at 04:10 AM.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  4. #4
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    Thank you for the reply, greatly appreciated. Iíll go back to stock and see how I go. I have just opened up the ESC and it doesnít look too healthy...



    With going to stock, Iím going to have to plug several holes I drilled in the hull. What would you recommend for them? Hot glue or specific plugs?

    Thanks,

    Will


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Assuming you don't need to permanently plug a hole in a critical spot (because you're just going to one by one reinstall everything again anyway), I'd make it easy on myself. I'd use small pieces of Gorilla duct tape.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  6. #6
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    Will do, thanks. I've ordered a Hobbywing Seaking 180A ESC, time for an upgrade. The motor spins so much faster when I connected it to one of my car ESCs. That's without any turbo or boost enabled on the ESC - blinky mode. Why it spins slower on the Castle ESC I don't know.

    I have a Prather S225 I think it is spare. I'll need to have a go and polishing and balancing it but hopefully that will be better.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    That Seaking 180 is a good ESC. I think you'll like it. Remember, though, when you mod; mod one thing at a time and then test. That way you'll know if that mod works the way you want or not. When you do a bunch of mods all at once, and then test run, you have a reasonable chance of not having a clue to which mod is causing you a problem.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

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