Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    West Caldwell NJ
    Posts
    76

    How do I know if I have a 2.0 or an original

    Hey guys and gals,
    I just bought a slightly used e revo vxl6s and was wondering how to tell the difference between a 2.0 and a 1.0. Also have 2 more questions. 1st, the esc is stuck in low voltage mode according to the person I bought it from. Is this something that will affect the performance or is it something that should be addressed? And my last question is, are there any upgrades that I should get right away or are the stock parts pretty strong? I'm not going to be bashing it super hard but I'm not sure how much abuse it has endured up to this point. Any ideas or opinions are welcomed. Thanks
    Slash 2wd
    Chase9Elliott
    Brett"theJet"Hearn

  2. #2
    RC Racer EclipseMantis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    145
    I've no idea about the other problems or upgrades since I don't have any e revo. The easiest way to tell the difference would probably be checking if it uses metal clips for the body or the "new" clipless system. If it uses clips than it's an original.

    I don't think the LVD would hurt anything except power. One option would be to switch to NiMh mode (if you can) and buy an external low voltage cutoff.
    Last edited by EclipseMantis; 10-12-2020 at 10:48 PM. Reason: typo

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier Rico116's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    367
    Quote Originally Posted by EclipseMantis View Post

    I don't think the LVD would hurt anything except power. One option would be to switch to NiMh mode (if you can) and buy an external low voltage cutoff.
    I think it says somewhere in the manual that Nimh batteries shouldn't be used with the 2.0

    Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Rico116; 10-13-2020 at 12:44 AM.

  4. #4
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    7
    The best and quickest way is to check the chassis. The 2.0 Chassis (thereby 2.0 bulkheads and diffs) has two grooves close to where the spur gear would sit.



    https://ibb.co/vdFVNN7
    Last edited by dgitalchaos; 10-15-2020 at 12:47 PM.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    3,493
    Clipless body (v2)
    Chassis brace/cage over the front/rear shocks (v2)
    Front/rear diffs accessible from the bottom (v2)
    VXL-6S esc (v2)
    Steel cvd's to the wheels (v2)

    Plastic slider axles to the wheels (v1)
    MXL-6S esc (v1)

    Mine currently is a v2 roller I bought, but I have a normal body with clips on it. I moved the electronics over from my v1 along with some other bits that still fit and kept the rest of the stuff for my nitro revo's since the arms/bulks/diffs all still work in those as well.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    West Caldwell NJ
    Posts
    76
    Thanks for the great info everyone.
    Slash 2wd
    Chase9Elliott
    Brett"theJet"Hearn

  7. #7
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    9
    For the 2.0 you want to do something to limit downward suspension travel a few millimeters so the shocks and rod ends are not taking the full brunt. This is the main achilles heal for this truck, you'll end up pulling rod ends over and over. I use zip ties to the body mounts. Others buy limiting straps.

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Texas, by God!
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by aPpYe View Post
    For the 2.0 you want to do something to limit downward suspension travel a few millimeters so the shocks and rod ends are not taking the full brunt. This is the main achilles heal for this truck, you'll end up pulling rod ends over and over. I use zip ties to the body mounts. Others buy limiting straps.
    I put bump stops inside my shocks. Buy 2 rebuild kits. Put one of the bump stops inside the shock, on the shock shaft, so when it hits full extension, it's gradually stopped, instead of yanking hard on the rod ends.

    You can also use some fuel tubing to accomplish the same effect. Either way, it will reduce the shock to the suspension, and stop you from wrecking shocks and pushrods.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    I find your lack of teepee disturbing.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •