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  1. #1
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    Slash 1/16 e-revo out of storage help

    Hi so I am now the owner of a slash thats been stored in a bag for i'm guessing 4 or 5 years.?

    Ive looked over it and connected a battery and everything seems generally ok, the only thing i'm wondering is if the shocks/springs will have been damaged by it being kept in a squashed position for that period? it seems to sit quite low and doesn't really spring back up no matter how i adjust the 'collars'.

    I'm looking to use this for a bit of a weird scenario of running it with a camera attached now its not super heavy but does add enough weight that the car basically bottoms the rear suspension out.. what can i do to resolve this? Im not worried about it having great handling but it will be on fairly rough terrain.
    Do I literally just find springier springs to fit on the shocks?

    so if it wasn't obvious I dont really know what i'm doing or talking about so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks so much, im now off to do a bit more searching to see if this info is already somewhere here

  2. #2
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    Going with some stiffer springs will help. It is possible that the springs lost some memory from being compressed for that long. The springs are color coded (I'm sure a key can be located somewhere in this forum) so figuring out which ones to pick up shouldn't be too hard. If the truck is too bouncy you need some heavier shock oil.

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  3. #3
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    Thanks yes they are the stock springs so seems like most people find then very soft anyway.
    They dont seem to be easy to find in the UK though with most suppliers being out of stock!

    Is it ok to source some springs of the correct size and cut them to the length needed?
    Or any other mods that can help support that extra camera weight...

  4. #4
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    You can use any spring that will fit, however I would try not to cut them. Depending on the type of metal used, you mat experience some weakening of the tension. Just keep in mind that the heavier the springs , the more you need to compensate for bounce with heavier shock oil.

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigfatmoonman View Post
    You can use any spring that will fit, however I would try not to cut them. Depending on the type of metal used, you mat experience some weakening of the tension. Just keep in mind that the heavier the springs , the more you need to compensate for bounce with heavier shock oil.

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    Ah interesting, i did manage to get some for under 5 that are perfect except for being too long, so I will try cutting them down and then se what happens.

    I gave it a 15 minute steady run and noticed the motor was fairly hot(you could touch it but wouldn't want to keep your finger there for more than a second) Im assuming that this is fairly normal and not an issue.

    and finally to engage reverse i have to push the trigger forward twice quickly is that normal?

    Thanks again.

  6. #6
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    Yes, it's normal. That setting can be changed on the esc if you prefer instant reverse (assuming you are using the stock electronics). You will need to download the manual as it's a little complicated (flashing led indicates mode).
    As for the motor overheating I would install at least a heat sink and maybe one with a fan as well if you are running 3s. If you want to spend the $40 you could pick up the Bluetooth adapter for the TQI transmitter. This would allow you to program the esc from your phone and monitor the esc temp as well. You can add more telemetry sensors as well depending on what you want to monitor.

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  7. #7
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    You can use the springs from the 1/16 Erevo & Summit also. They are stronger than the 1/16 Slash springs.



    Which motor and ESC do you have? Brushless or brushed?
    Last edited by grizzly03; 10-13-2020 at 10:21 AM.

  8. #8
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigfatmoonman View Post
    Yes, it's normal. That setting can be changed on the esc if you prefer instant reverse (assuming you are using the stock electronics). You will need to download the manual as it's a little complicated (flashing led indicates mode)...
    You only have three settings using the stock Traxxas electronics.
    Sport,Race,and Training mode, none that offer instant reverse.

  9. #9
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    its totally original brushed 2.5.

    Im actually now having an issue I didnt have, when turned on and everything connected I have steering but no drive? when I pull the trigger I see the green led light up and get an electronic hum but now no drive... wheels spinning fine now im confused. downloading manual but anyone know what ive done?

    the shock screws near the motor wires are really close.. any chance moving the fastened past that has caused an issue?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    You only have three settings using the stock Traxxas electronics.
    Sport,Race,and Training mode, none that offer instant reverse.
    As a newer RC hobbyist, this confused me and made me think it was broke. Then I realized that what its doing when you are moving forward is changing the "reverse" action to braking. It was a ah-ha moment for me.

  11. #11
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    Hmm I dont have 'brake' I was definitly in sport mode and pushing forward didnt seem to do anything more than just letting off?

    If I get it working again i'll test it out, just printed the PDF for the 2.5 and making sure all batteries are full.

  12. #12
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Can you turn the motor? You might need to remove the gear cover to see the spur gear and pinion gear. Then you can turn the spur gear with your finger to turn the motor. It's possible the motor itself has gone bad. They have bushings (instead of bearings) that can seize and need to be oiled for maintenance. Is the ESC flashing any LEDs?

    The shocks screws won't cause any issue. The only thing that could have been done is if you cut the motor wire insulation and have exposed the inner wire.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Can you turn the motor? You might need to remove the gear cover to see the spur gear and pinion gear. Then you can turn the spur gear with your finger to turn the motor. It's possible the motor itself has gone bad. They have bushings (instead of bearings) that can seize and need to be oiled for maintenance. Is the ESC flashing any LEDs?

    The shocks screws won't cause any issue. The only thing that could have been done is if you cut the motor wire insulation and have exposed the inner wire.
    So I can see the motor turning if i turn the wheels, it was running fine a couple hours ago..

    I think you could be onto something with the inner wire! when removing the shock screw nearest that I noticed there was already damage to the wire itself where the exposed wire is soldered to the motor... It looks like its aready been damaged or rubbing on the crew head and when I replaced the shock I did have to push taht wire to the side to get the screw back in.

    Would taht cause this to happen?

    I have tried connecting a battery directly to the motor and nothing at all. I can hear the esc recieving the trigger command but no noise at all from motor.

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  15. #15
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    If you unplug the motor and connected the motor wires to the battery and it doesn't move then motor is toast. Probably broke off a bushing or something.

    If it's a titan 550 motor it's not fixable,. Some after market brushed motors are repairable.

    Brushed motors are cheap. ~25$

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    If you unplug the motor and connected the motor wires to the battery and it doesn't move then motor is toast. Probably broke off a bushing or something.

    If it's a titan 550 motor it's not fixable,. Some after market brushed motors are repairable.

    Brushed motors are cheap. ~25$

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    Is that likely with it running fine an hour before? wouldn't it fail while running it?
    and Im not hearing anything from the motor would I hear any noises? buzz etc?

    Thanks everyone

    Ill borrow a multimeter I think and just double check but seems like i pretty much have a consensus from you guys who clearly know way more than me

    what motor would anyone reccomend?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by stustaff View Post
    what motor would anyone reccomend?
    Brushless motor and esc for more speed. Also more $$$

  18. #18
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    If the motor is disconnected from the esc and the battery is charged. Putting voltage to The motor will turn right away if it does not. Then motor is toast.

    Know on my old titans you wanted to break them in some and connect them to a few AA batterys. Or a 9v.

    It may of gotten to hot when you were running it. Or a bushing failed ect..... motors don't like to get hot and will make them fail.

    A dmm don't tell ya to much on the motor. Other than perhaps a open circuit on continuity test.



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  19. #19
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Pic of a spare titan of mine. Perhaps test the capacitors. But I don't think if one is missing that it will not make the motor turn. Pretty sure it's just to reduce the feedback voltage.

    You should be able to turn the motor by hand and it feels smooth.

    If you get a flashlight and look inside you should be able to see the 2 brushes touching the commutator

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  20. #20
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    For a replacement. If you have a local hobby store. Can do the power up deal. Turn in old esc and motor (doesn't have to work... ). To get a discount. With a vxl3m esc and 380 motor. Also need to get the right motor mount, plate and cover.

    Or can get any right sized 1/10 scale motor and esc. (Search Merv Big block). Will use same mount and cover as the titan motor. Wanna say 3600kv motor size...

    Hobby wing,. Or castle. Or Traxxas.... Cog will be make car more tippy and have even more crazy amounts of power. The vxl3m with 380 motor on 3s is pretty crazy as it is. And turns it into a rocket. That just wants to fly.

    Other escs outside of the vxl3m will require some mods in order to mount the esc to the car.

    Really depends on what terrain and how you plan to play with it for which motor size you go. But a "stock brushless" is the vxl3m with 380 motor. About 150$ before any discounts. The other parts needed are about 15$



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  21. #21
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    Thanks Acidic01 thats I think everything I need i'll take the motor out and have a look.

    To be honest its a car I wanted to get running for a 9 year old first car and a little side project so not going to spend too much on it.
    Im in Uk and unfortunately dont really have anything around here hobby wise.

  22. #22
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stustaff View Post
    Thanks Acidic01 thats I think everything I need i'll take the motor out and have a look.

    To be honest its a car I wanted to get running for a 9 year old first car and a little side project so not going to spend too much on it.
    Im in Uk and unfortunately dont really have anything around here hobby wise.
    If it's for a little one for their first car stick with the brushed motor. And get a 2s lipo.

    A brushless motor on 2s would need to be put into training mode without breaking stuff. (Goes about 2x as fast as the brushed motor and 3s seems twice as fast as with 2s...). I think if i can keep wheels on ground 3s get me 40 to 50 mph on stock gearing.

    Brushless and lipo will give you the longest run times.

    If got a tqi tx. With the Bluetooth link module 30$ can custom set the training mode. So can slow it down to kids ability. And then full speed for the adults.



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  23. #23
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Getting another brushed motor would probably be your best bet. I agree with Acidic01 that they can be gotten for cheap.

  24. #24
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    Thanks both, i think for mine and my sons skill levels(mine in installing it and his driving it) Ill just try and replace like for like.

  25. #25
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    Sounds like a good plan does your esc say low voltage detection under where it says xl2.5? If it does than you can run 2s lipo.

  26. #26
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    So motor is out and spins but feels 'lumpy' as it spins. like riding a bike with a octagon for a wheel...

  27. #27
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    Video of motor, not spinning with battery connected and sound it makes when I spin it. - https://streamable.com/ufofv5

  28. #28
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stustaff View Post
    Video of motor, not spinning with battery connected and sound it makes when I spin it. - https://streamable.com/ufofv5
    Motor toast. Something probably broke inside.

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  29. #29
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    Thanks for confirming, will order replacement tomorrow!
    I’m amazed it’s under 25 delivered!

    Cheers for the help everyone.

  30. #30
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Did you get the 550 titan? Or the 380?

    I forget the brand name but are some out there half that price. My LHS has them and they are rebuildable. But they never lasted as long as the titans for me .

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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Did you get the 550 titan? Or the 380?

    I forget the brand name but are some out there half that price. My LHS has them and they are rebuildable. But they never lasted as long as the titans for me .

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    Just went for the Titan 380, I got a bit confused to be honest. I saw earlier you said any 1/10 motor but I assumed I needed to look for 1/16? And the 550 says 14.8v when my battery only has 7.2v and I assume then I need the series adapter? And another battery.

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