Rear Toe links stripping...

[nebulous.cow]

Hey folks, wondering if anyone else is having similar trouble with their revo.

Been bashing the revo all summer and it's been a blast. We set up jumps at our local abandoned MX track!

But sometimes a hard landing, or more usually a cartwheel leaves my rear wheel(s) toe'd out pretty badly. The adjustable linkage that controls the rear toe has the metal rod shoved into the ball ends all the way. Luckily, it doesn't strip them and pull them apart, but it strips them and pushes them together.

I can unscrew the plastic ball ends and reinstall them at a proper setting, but it only takes a couple weird landings and my rear wheels are severely toe'd out, making it drive awful.

Nothing else breaks too. You guys got any smart ways to fix this? I thought about putting material inside the plastic ball ends before threading in the linkage, as to physically prevent it from getting shoved in, but seems like a mediocre solution at best....
All stock suspension parts too, btw.

Thanks in advance.
-Mike

[grizzly03]

Maybe use the heavier links from the Erevo 2.0?

I think olds97 lss will tell you to go RPM true track.

[Double G]

I don't run them but many recommend the RPM True-Track system which eliminates the rear links.

[nebulous.cow]

Oh i forgot about that piece of kit! That does sound like the answer. Just wish it wasn't $40 that I don't have right now to spend on rc stuff, lol.

Had my reverse servo literally catch fire today, so I'll probably do this fix... in the foreseeable future. Haha.

Thanks fellas!

-Mike

[lexuabest]

I replaced stock plastic ends with teknos sct410 6.8mm balls and plastic ends. I haven't tried it yet because my 10yo never broken in trx3.3 died, but looks great so far. I will be posting a pic here soon

[lexuabest]

Used part numbers:
- TKR5188
- TKR8052A
- RCAWD F290010

[nebulous.cow]

Hmm, looks very nice. Interested to hear how it turns out taking a beating.

I may just do truetrack, but have not made up my mind yet.

-Mike

[ElectricPropils]

I don't run them but many recommend the RPM True-Track system which eliminates the rear links.

I don't understand why the E-revo 2.0 doesn't come stock with rear arms live those. I guess it's for adjustability but who really adjusts their rear toe linkages unless they are aligning their wheels?

[Double G]

I don't understand why the E-revo 2.0 doesn't come stock with rear arms live those. I guess it's for adjustability but who really adjusts their rear toe linkages unless they are aligning their wheels?

I really haven't dwelled on that too much but this is the nitro Revo we are talking about which has remained largely unchanged since it went to the extended chassis. Yes the toe link is for tire alignment but there is also some changes to the outer ball link in relation to the position of the upper arm in the roll center. It's up to Traxxas to decide but I doubt they will contract with RPM to build it into their models. Maybe they'll offer it as an optional part(s) at some point much like the Slash and Slash 4x4 lines where the toe is built into the rear hub carrier.

[grizzly03]

I don't understand why the E-revo 2.0 doesn't come stock with rear arms live those. I guess it's for adjustability but who really adjusts their rear toe linkages unless they are aligning their wheels?

The Revo chassis was developed for racing and like Double G pointed out hasn't changed since it came out way back in 2004. Later they just swapped out the aluminum chassis to a plastic one to hold batteries for the Erevo's. For an old design both are still a great seller so why change a good thing. Plus, Traxxas does a great job by having parts that are compatible between different models.

I personally like the ability to adjust the toe myself.

[ElectricPropils]

The Revo chassis was developed for racing and like Double G pointed out hasn't changed since it came out way back in 2004. Later they just swapped out the aluminum chassis to a plastic one to hold batteries for the Erevo's. For an old design both are still a great seller so why change a good thing. Plus, Traxxas does a great job by having parts that are compatible between different models.

I personally like the ability to adjust the toe myself.

I don't mind it that much but it's just an annoyance. I might 3D model my own version whenever I have free time but for right now eyeballing it is my best option.

[nebulous.cow]

I do actually do some very low level racing with the revo when we go bashing, and the adjustment would be nice. However, durability takes priority, and the truck drives horrible when the links strip and the rear toe is outwards...

I'll probably order up the true track system here soon, hoping for the best.

-Mike

[ElectricPropils]

I do actually do some very low level racing with the revo when we go bashing, and the adjustment would be nice. However, durability takes priority, and the truck drives horrible when the links strip and the rear toe is outwards...

I'll probably order up the true track system here soon, hoping for the best.

-Mike

Good luck! I hope it works out well!

[grizzly03]

+1 Let us know how they work out for you if you go that route.

PS: If you want me to measure up the difference between the revo and Erevo 2.0 links let me know.

[ElectricPropils]

+1 Let us know how they work out for you if you go that route.

PS: If you want me to measure up the difference between the revo and Erevo 2.0 links let me know.

Hmm, I'll have to see what I can get via the stock E-revo arms. I might just completely model the stock arms from scratch, then I can model a hub carrier that attaches to them at a fixed angle. From the looks of the stock arms it is definitely possible to fit something like that, the hardest part would be making it strong enough to hold the wheel strait in a hard impact. I wonder if I sent the model to RPM if they would make the necessary changes so that they could produce it.

[olds97_lss]

Maybe use the heavier links from the Erevo 2.0?

I think olds97 lss will tell you to go RPM true track.

True track is the way to go for durability. One thing I don't care for on the ERBE v2 is the lack of being able to run truetrack on the rear. Annoys me to no end. Even with the big "heavy duty" ends on it, I seem to snap one off almost every time I bash on the rear. I have yet to rip one out of the threaded part, they always just snap on me where the threaded rod stops in the ball end.

Before I converted to the 2.0, I had true track on all 3 of my revo's. Now just my 2 nitro's have it and I have the spare set from my v1 if I break something.

I think the v2 rods/ends will work on the v1 as well. The rods are shorter, but the threaded part is longer and larger, so it holds on better.
Rods: https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-8638-.../dp/B07CMBSHM3
Ends: https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-8646-.../dp/B07CN8VQGL

I'd have to measure them to be sure though... but since I lack the original ones from my ERBEv1 or my nitro revos, I'm not sure what I have in my drawer to compare it to.

Easy to see how beefy the v2's are vs the v1's:
v1 Rods: https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5338-.../dp/B000BOO7FO
v1 Ends: https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5348-.../dp/B000BOR0K8

Ran across another thread where they were bending/breaking even the v2 rods and one guy posted that they used lunsford rods with traxxas ends, was on the v2 revo:

Toelink is LNS15109 with traxxas 8646
Pushrod is LNS14103 with traxxas 8647

https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...=1#post6470487

I bought a spare set of the v2 rods off ebay a while back, but haven't had issues with the rods, just the ends snapping.

[lexuabest]

If you run truetrack you also loose the extended wheelbase other arms offer. The revo truck should be completely redesigned to newer pill standars. The chassis should be extended 19mm to match extended arms and avoid the weird behaviour that backwards angled shafts create. Meanwhile finding a durable 5mm toe link + 5mm plastic ends would be the best performance and probably durability upgrade.
For now i have gone with 4mm tekno plastic ends over stock toe links. My newest 21tm will arrive early next year so the truck will be stored until the new engine arrives.

[grizzly03]

...Meanwhile finding a durable 5mm toe link + 5mm plastic ends would be the best performance and probably durability upgrade.
For now i have gone with 4mm tekno plastic ends over stock toe links...

That was my whole point. The Erevo 2.0 rods and ends are 5mm.

[olds97_lss]

I run mine on the shorter wheel base holes on the v2 arms. Was having a hard time pulling flips after wrapping the tires with kevlar.

[lexuabest]

That was my whole point. The Erevo 2.0 rods and ends are 5mm.

But plastic shock ends are much softer than tekno's. The toe link itself is also shorter than stock 3.3's

[grizzly03]

But plastic shock ends are much softer than tekno's. The toe link itself is also shorter than stock 3.3's

I'm not sure where your getting your info from?

I don't know why you brought up shock ends as we where not talking about them. But the V2(2.0) shock ends are stronger than the V1 shock ends.

Here is a picture of the V1 revo (nitro) toe link and the new Erevo 2.0 toe link. Same length so they can be swapped between versions. Much beefier than the Techno's your using.

[olds97_lss]

I'm not sure where your getting your info from?

I don't know why you brought up shock ends as we where not talking about them. But the V2(2.0) shock ends are stronger than the V1 shock ends.

Here is a picture of the V1 revo (nitro) toe link and the new Erevo 2.0 toe link. Same length so they can be swapped between versions. Much beefier than the Techno's your using.

Thanks for posting that, I didn't have a photo of the 2 side by side and couldn't find one on google. lol!

Saving that for later reference!

I wasn't 100% sure they were the same, but would make sense, when assembled at least. The V2 doesn't step down in size for threads and has a lot more threaded area as well to get more screw on the longer plastic skirt of the new ball ends.

FWIW, they also came out with some beefier pushrods, even more so than what came on the ERBEv2.


Part number 8618 (old) vs 8619 (new). Both of which are using stronger ends than the v1 pushrods (pn: 5318/5347).

I should take a better photo of them...

[lexuabest]

I meant plastic ends, not shock ends sry. I got some v2 plastic ends also to test. Those v2 links would be a great upgrade over v1's, but still not as strong as i would like them to be

[grizzly03]

FWIW, they also came out with some beefier pushrods, even more so than what came on the ERBEv2.

Part number 8618 (old) vs 8619 (new). Both of which are using stronger ends than the v1 pushrods (pn: 5318/5347).

I should take a better photo of them...

Your right,LoL. I missed out on those as mine had the earlier versions. Here is the comparison I did when I upgraded to the new ones. I went with the fancy blue aluminum ones:

I meant plastic ends, not shock ends sry. I got some v2 plastic ends also to test. Those v2 links would be a great upgrade over v1's, but still not as strong as i would like them to be

They have held up in great in the much heavier Erevo 2.0. There isn't that many that are reporting that they are a weak point. No offense meant to olds97 lss but he is a big air kinda guy. If he can go half a battery let alone a full day at his park that is noteworthy for a durability test. Most won't put there cars through that. The reason he has good luck with the RPM true track is because of the additional flex that the arms allow. If he put on aluminum rod ends, what would be the next part inline that would break? If you want indestructible toelinks and ends go for it, your going to be spending much more in repair replacing arms and bulkheads when it's not needed.

Here is a side shot of the difference in size. You'd be hard pressed to be able to break these in the lighter nitro Revo.

[olds97_lss]

Yep, that's why I stick with plastic. Would rather break a $3 part that takes 10 minutes to fix while I'm out bashing than snap the arm off the axle carrier and fiddle with that. Although, I do carry a spare set of carriers with me as well.

Nice to have the beefier rods/ends though. Lets me get through a bash session usually if I land on all 4's most of the time.

Even with true track, I had issues with the pushrod ends stretching and popping off the ball after a pack or two of running. The new rods have thicker ends, marginally, but every little bit helps.

Kind of funny... when I ran only nitro, it never occurred to me to jump them the way I do now with electric. When I run my nitro's, I jump them as high now too. They just don't go as fast, so kind of keeps things in check due to the lack of velocity, but they will still get pretty good air. I'll likely get the HD pushrods/ends on my nitro's as well the next time I need to do maintenance. Probably won't be running the nitro's anymore this year though. Hated running nitro in the cold... they were just too fussy and the cold is harder on them.

[lexuabest]

The astroturf track i run at tends to pop those plastic ends out of the balls. Hopefully the thicker tekno plastic ends and bigger balls will work better. Aluminum is never a good upgrade lol. The nitro revo is the funiest rc car i have never run. Sad monster truck class is not competitive anymore, i would really like to see this truck updated with new goodies

[grizzly03]

The only thing near me was/is carpet racing. I would have loved to have fun racing nitro trucks, sadly I would have had to travel.
The nitro revo is still my favorite. So it's backyard bashing fun for me!

[cjtamu-redux]

Great info. Thanks, fellas.