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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. brushlessman's Avatar
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    What parts do i need to upgrade from 1.0 diffs to 2.0?

    So i just blew out my rear ring gear and pinion on 6s.

    Is their any advantage to upgrading to the 2.0 front and rear diffs?

    If so what part numbers do i need?

    Also front and rear driveshafts what do i need to go to the steel shafts?


    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    The V2.0 drivetrain is superior to the V1 parts. The diff gears are bigger so you would need the 2.0 chassis or cut/modify your V1 chassis. The axles (from diff to wheel) need the 2.0 carriers and wheel hex's as they are bigger than the V1.

    What are you trying to accomplish? While most parts are interchangeable the diffs/axles need more than a simple swap between the two.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Instead of trying to force my v1 to work with v2 stuff, I got a v2 roller off ebay and moved over my electronics and some upgrades that fit without modifying anything.

    The v2 drivetrain is much better and has become one of my "go to" 6s trucks since I got it.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. brushlessman's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!

    Thats what i needed to know.

    I will probably just go with new bearings and new 1.0 diffs with aluminum diff cases to minimize flex.

    I really want to try and keep it as a 1.0 but just bring up the durability a bit.

    Any good recommendation on driveshafts?
    Last edited by brushlessman; 10-19-2020 at 01:52 PM.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. brushlessman's Avatar
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    Or if i did get the new chassis, bulkheads and diffs would everything else bolt up?
    New carriers too. But that seems cheaper than a roller?

  6. #6
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    It's been a while since I looked into it. I think you would need to get the skidplates for the new chassis also.
    I think I remember you needed:
    Chassis and skidplates for new chassis
    Diffs and bulkheads
    Axles and diffcups to fit 8mm output on diff
    Carriers and 8mm wheel hex (axle has 8mm stub end)

    A-arms, rockers, shocks can be swapped. Transmission, motor/body mounts, bumpers also can be swapped. Not quite sure but I believe you can also use the V1 driveshafts from the tranny to diffs also.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    It's been a while since I looked into it. I think you would need to get the skidplates for the new chassis also.
    I think I remember you needed:
    Chassis and skidplates for new chassis
    Diffs and bulkheads
    Axles and diffcups to fit 8mm output on diff
    Carriers and 8mm wheel hex (axle has 8mm stub end)

    A-arms, rockers, shocks can be swapped. Transmission, motor/body mounts, bumpers also can be swapped. Not quite sure but I believe you can also use the V1 driveshafts from the tranny to diffs also.
    The v2 trans has a center diff in it and a thicker motor mount plate. The center diff is a lot more robust than the one that fits in the v1 that was an optional upgrade. The v2 also has a cush type spur gear vs a slipper.

    I got my roller used for $250 July of last year. I replaced the diff bearings and cleaned/regreased the ring/pinions when I got it, I also flipped the output cups on the rear diff and reloaded the center diff with 20M. Otherwise, I haven't had too much issue with the drive train.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  8. #8
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    The v2 trans has a center diff in it and a thicker motor mount plate. The center diff is a lot more robust than the one that fits in the v1 that was an optional upgrade. The v2 also has a cush type spur gear vs a slipper.
    Yes the V2 tranny setup is different but it doesn't mean you couldn't use the V1 tranny and motor mount that is already owned. No need to purchase the V2 tranny if you only want to upgrade the diffs.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Yes the V2 tranny setup is different but it doesn't mean you couldn't use the V1 tranny and motor mount that is already owned. No need to purchase the V2 tranny if you only want to upgrade the diffs.
    Yep, I get that.

    I wasn't 100% sure the trans case would bolt up though as I didn't try it. I wanted the center diff and didn't want the slipper, so it was a welcome change for me.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    I used the V1 tranny on my V2 swap for a while. Worked fine but I kept chewing up spur gears with light bashing on 6s. Found a V2 tranny on eBay for 45, bought a HR steel spur and havenít had any issues. I like the center diff in the V2 tranny, helps keep the front end more manageable. I wonder if the V2 tranny works in the V1 chassis I may have to find out.


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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocketzx1 View Post
    I used the V1 tranny on my V2 swap for a while. Worked fine but I kept chewing up spur gears with light bashing on 6s. Found a V2 tranny on eBay for 45, bought a HR steel spur and haven’t had any issues. I like the center diff in the V2 tranny, helps keep the front end more manageable. I wonder if the V2 tranny works in the V1 chassis I may have to find out.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I haven't had any issues with the plastic spur on the v2. Has had the same one in it since I got it in July 2019. I like plastic spurs, they tend to be quieter. My outcast 6S with pan chassis and steel spur sounds like a bag of hammers running around. lol!
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. brushlessman's Avatar
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    I have the hot racing steel spur and i agree it sounds like a coffee grinder rolling around but it does work. I want to try and reuse the V1 tranny as i don’t see it as a weak point as long as you use the spool and not the center diff i roasted a V1 center diff on 4s.
    But it sounds like a new chassis diffs and bulks plus the skid plates should get me at least the front and rear diffs to V2 and from there i can add the steel driveshafts and carriers.

    Are the V2 diff outdrive shafts the same size as the V1? Like will it bolt up to the plastic u-joints? I dont see myself replacing the center driveshafts as they really dont go bad because their angles don't change.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brushlessman View Post
    I have the hot racing steel spur and i agree it sounds like a coffee grinder rolling around but it does work. I want to try and reuse the V1 tranny as i don’t see it as a weak point as long as you use the spool and not the center diff i roasted a V1 center diff on 4s.
    But it sounds like a new chassis diffs and bulks plus the skid plates should get me at least the front and rear diffs to V2 and from there i can add the steel driveshafts and carriers.

    Are the V2 diff outdrive shafts the same size as the V1? Like will it bolt up to the plastic u-joints? I dont see myself replacing the center driveshafts as they really dont go bad because their angles don't change.
    I believe the output shafts are larger OD. I think someone mentioned you would need 8mm ujoints.

    These: https://www.rc-monster.com/proddetai..._shaft_coupler

    If you can find them.

    I doubt the the plastic sliders will hold up very long to 6S. I know I had to replace mine at least once a season running 4S as the yokes would stretch/break on me. Even with the punch nearly as low as it would go.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I believe the output shafts are larger OD. I think someone mentioned you would need 8mm ujoints.

    These: https://www.rc-monster.com/proddetai..._shaft_coupler

    If you can find them.

    I doubt the the plastic sliders will hold up very long to 6S. I know I had to replace mine at least once a season running 4S as the yokes would stretch/break on me. Even with the punch nearly as low as it would go.
    Do you think it could be possible to use the erbe steel cvds if you opened up the drive cup to 8mm? That way you have 2.0 diffs but still using most of his trucks parts? And isnít there some Losi drive shafts that actually fit the erbe that are steel, with no mods to fit them? Feel like Iíve seen that around.


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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. brushlessman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocketzx1 View Post
    Do you think it could be possible to use the erbe steel cvds if you opened up the drive cup to 8mm? That way you have 2.0 diffs but still using most of his trucks parts? And isnít there some Losi drive shafts that actually fit the erbe that are steel, with no mods to fit them? Feel like Iíve seen that around.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Losi Shafts?

    I have the traxxas chrome shafts they used to sell for this truck... they didn't last as long as the plastic ones did.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. brushlessman's Avatar
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    Anyone have any luck with this part number? MIP18130

    Its expensive, but i was able to cobble together a new differential from parts i had in boxes. so that is good to go for a few more years probably if i take it easy.

    Upon further inspection most of my half shafts are about to break at the u-joints... so the shafts are next.

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