Is it possible to open the stock differential and add a heavier weight fluid? Or is it not sealed?
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Yes, it can be opened.
Yes, other diff fluid can replace what's in there.
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You're welcome. Depending on your usage, I might suggest upgrading to the HD diff, TRA6780.
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I thought about that as well. Thanks for the suggestion. Ill try tuning the stock diffs before i do away with the slipper i think. I drive on just about every surface. Tar, concrete, loose and hard packed dirt. Sometimes grass if its not deep.
Doing away with the slipper would make it all time 4 wheel drive right? Not corner to corner, like it is now.
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Honestly, don't get rid of the slipper...it's already "all time 4 wheel drive". What it appears that you're thinking of is 'all-wheel drive', which is different than 4WD (instead of mentioning the similarities and differences, just Google the info). The best thing is to "control" the front-to-rear, as well as the left-to-right, through the use of different viscosity diff fluids - they are available as light as 500, and as heavy as 20M.
I can't tell, or even suggests, what would best suit your needs. But, what I can do, is provide some examples from a few of my current vehicles. My Rusty 4x4 (NOT set up for Traxxas'vintended "use"...I've converted it to a "true" stadium truck, for off-road racing) is running 10K (front), 10K (center), & 15K (rear). Another Rusty 4x4, converted to a 1/8 E-buggy, is running 10K, 15K, & 80K. My 1/10 4WD buggy is running 3.5K, 3.5K, & 5K. And, while my Losi Baja Rey is currently running 15K, 15K, & 80K, I'm about to switch them to 15K, 80K, & 2.5M (I don't want to completely "lock" the rear, but I want it to be somewhat close).
If you were to put a super-high viscosity diff fluid in the center diff...say, 1M, or higher...while not being completely equal to a slipper eliminator, it would bring it extremely close. But, as I said above, I don't want to suggest any specific diff fluid weight, as you need to decide that, which will be dependent upon your specific usage.
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~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better
+1 on keeping your slipper clutch. I run some parking lot racing and just built a track in my yard. I'm running 80k front and rear with xo1 differentials and spiral cut gears. The diff has some slip but definitely tears up the grass and dirt with all 4 tires
Rustler 4x4 powered by MambaX
Okay thank you guys. Im thinking im gonna put in 500k in the rear and around 80k in the front. I want the rear to be near locked. But I still want the front to have some action. I feel like full lock on all 4 tires all the time would not benefit me and where i drive. Maybe if it was a straight line racer.
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If your looking to nearly lock the rear, go 1 million wt.
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Okay i probably will do that. I was gonna try 500k cause thats what i have now. I bought the sealed diff for my 2wd slash and filled it with 500k. But i can buy some more thick stuff if need be.
Would 500k be good in the front? I'm thinking about it how it worked in my slash. Both tires would spin if i pushed the throttle hard at first but if eased into it but pushed it hard enough to spin it would almost dig one tire deeper.
Im thinkin i might go 500k in the front just cause itll grab harder at first but as its going, itll go back to one tire maybe. Worst case i can buy 100k and try that. If it makes my driving experience worse of course.
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I think 500k may be a little too thick for the front. Could cause alot of torque steer.
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Oh really? I didnt think about that. Im happy you said that. Whats a heavy enough fluid thatll keep it tight but not locked all the way?
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I use 1 million wt diff fluid to do a near locked diff.
Thank you. I just noticed the other guy said that too. Whoops.
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For the front diff i wouldnt go heaver than 100k so it still takes turns pretty well
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