Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    NL
    Posts
    263

    How to prevent wheels form slipping and rounding out?

    I've had my slash for almost a year, and the tires have worn a lot since. I've looked for the best replacements, and most poeple seem to like the Proline Trenchers the most (for on/off-road bashing).

    My current tires are fine, and don't realy need to be replaced, but my wheels got rounded off, and now 2 are unusable.
    But, if I'm spending €80 for 2 pairs of premounted trenchers, how can I keep the wheels from rounding off on the hexes? I want to preserve my wheels (not tires) as long as possible, so I don't need to buy €40 premounted tires, but only the €25 tires without wheels.

    I also see M2 and M3 versions. Does M2 mean harder compound --> more grip, less longevuty?
    And what's the benefit of using 17mm hexes over the stock 12mm?

    And just a random question: why are there different tires for different SCT's (on proline tire selector), if for example all 1:8 trucks can use the same tires?
    And, what are beadlocks?
    Last edited by The Bean; 10-21-2020 at 09:42 AM.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Dallas TX
    Posts
    332
    I've never had a problem with my wheel hexes stripping but of course everyone's experience is different.

    Some tips to not stripping your hexes would be to ensure that your tires are tightened completely on the axles, another tip would be to buy metal hexes. Proline sells these which made for those wheels.

    https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...ers-narrow.asp

    But let's be honest, $84 dollars plus tax for metal wheel hexes is overpriced so if I were you I would look on amazon for cheaper ones. The good thing about those aluminum hexes is that as long as you take care of them they should last you a lifetime. Anytime you buy Proline wheels or tires you will have aluminum hexes, or you can just buy the plastic hexes again if the ones on your wheels strip.

    As for tire compounds, a harder compound will last longer but get less grip (better for if you want to drive both on road and off road), a softer compound will wear quicker but get more grip (better for if you are just planning to drive off road).

    It seems like you want the longest lasting wheels and tires possible so I would go for the hardest compound that they offer, I have the older version of the same Trenchers that you are looking at and they have been through the worst conditions that you can possibly imagine. I slapped them on the most powerful, overgeared rustler that you've ever seen and they still have tread on them along with the hexes being fine.

    https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/...unted-raid.asp

    If I were you I would just get these, they are expensive so that does need to be taken into consideration. In my opinion you are getting what you pay for as these are some of the better tires and wheels out there.

    I hope this helps!
    The present is theirs; the future, is mine.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    474
    Quote Originally Posted by The Bean View Post
    I've had my slash for almost a year, and the tires have worn a lot since. I've looked for the best replacements, and most poeple seem to like the Proline Trenchers the most (for on/off-road bashing).

    My current tires are fine, and don't realy need to be replaced, but my wheels got rounded off, and now 2 are unusable.
    But, if I'm spending €80 for 2 pairs of premounted trenchers, how can I keep the wheels from rounding off on the hexes? I want to preserve my wheels (not tires) as long as possible, so I don't need to buy €40 premounted tires, but only the €25 tires without wheels.

    I also see M2 and M3 versions. Does M2 mean harder compound --> more grip, less longevuty?
    And what's the benefit of using 17mm hexes over the stock 12mm?

    And just a random question: why are there different tires for different SCT's (on proline tire selector), if for example all 1:8 trucks can use the same tires?
    And, what are beadlocks?
    M2 is medium, M3 is soft. Soft will grip better, wear faster.

    17mm hexes will allow you to run buggy wheels for example, or some crazy MT wheels and/or other wheels that don’t have 12mm hexes. There is nothing wrong with 12mm hexes. I’ve stripped some over the years, but mostly not!
    Most of the time I did, it was due to not tightening properly in the first place and/or no pre-flight check!
    Things come loose from time to time including the wheels... Always check and recheck.
    Replace any lug nuts that are coming loose repeatedly. Make sure to use the flanged nylocks.

    There are basically 3 different rim size of PL tires. 2.2, 2.8 and 3.8 that will fit 1/10 or 1/8 trucks.
    On top of that are the different tire sizes. Height, width and tread...
    Most importantly imo is weight. Extra rotating mass can be hard on the gear...
    I try to stick to tires in the 4” tall range. They weigh less and do the job for racing.
    I run 2.8 PL ST tires a lot, a few different treads. They’re alright, except the foam doesn’t last.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    NL
    Posts
    263
    Quote Originally Posted by ElectricPropils View Post
    I've never had a problem with my wheel hexes stripping but of course everyone's experience is different.

    Some tips to not stripping your hexes would be to ensure that your tires are tightened completely on the axles, another tip would be to buy metal hexes. Proline sells these which made for those wheels.
    I have MIP axles, which come with metal hexes. I think the problem could be undertightening. I'll check/tighten every nut before every run, or just remove the wheels after each one, so I'm forced to put them om correctly.

    Quote Originally Posted by fortunespoonz View Post
    M2 is medium, M3 is soft. Soft will grip better, wear faster.

    17mm hexes will allow you to run buggy wheels for example, or some crazy MT wheels and/or other wheels that don’t have 12mm hexes. There is nothing wrong with 12mm hexes. I’ve stripped some over the years, but mostly not!
    Most of the time I did, it was due to not tightening properly in the first place and/or no pre-flight check!
    Things come loose from time to time including the wheels... Always check and recheck.
    Replace any lug nuts that are coming loose repeatedly. Make sure to use the flanged nylocks.
    So, again: tighten my nuts.

    tnx for the extra info, guys.

    So: I should be looking for something with M2 compound, a standard 1:10 SCT size (and a standerd sized 12mm hex).

    The 'removable hex' feature seems interesting
    Last edited by The Bean; 10-21-2020 at 02:40 PM.

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    105
    Go 17mm you won’t regret it

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    California Bay Area
    Posts
    808
    Yes, ElectricPropils brought up some excellent points. I would like to add that Proline makes wheels that have removable hexes, so when you strip one, you just need to replace the hex.

    Beadlocks are wheels that mechanically hold the tires to the rim by screws that press down on a ring, so unlike regular wheels, no glue is needed. You can remove and switch the tires as many times as you want with beadlock wheels, but they do cost several times more than regular wheels, and it is possible to strip out the screw holes (one or two still works, but too much can make the beadlock useless).

    They are commonly used in crawlers and trail trucks for the scale appearance and added weight from the metal ones (on the bottom of the truck to lower CG). For higher speed vehicles, having really heavy wheels isn't the best. More rotational mass results in a larger strain in the drivetrain, so it may result in stripped gears or damaged driveshafts, so you may want to look into plastic beadlocks (proline makes some, but they don't hold the bead too well at high speeds). RC4WD makes excellent SCT beadlocks. They hold the bead well under high speeds and have great aesthetics. The only problems are that they are pretty darn expensive, and they have quite a bit of weight to them
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  7. #7
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    Posts
    1,456
    I wish I switched to 17mm hexes earlier before I bought so many 12mm premounted wheels. I can't say I had problems with 12mm hexes striping so upgrading to 17mm was more a preventive measure. Not like I pay a premium now because of the choice. Plus the 12mm rim market is the most flooded with cheap junk. If you are mindful of what you buy and avoid the cheap stuff you will rarely have problems with 12mm hexes.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    NL
    Posts
    263
    Proline 1190-10 premounted tires?

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    14,575
    I have been running aluminum beadlocks for years! Combine them with the steel hex from MIP X-Duty axles and you almost can't strip a hex. I sure never have. Beadlocks save you money in the long run because you can switch tires at will. I have had mine for five or six years and have had plenty of different tires on them. I also have a set of aluminum rims. You won't strip them either. They weigh almost the same as the plastic wheels but they most likely won't strip either.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    NL
    Posts
    263
    That extra weight just can’t be good for my poor little VXL-3s…

    Can’t you also save money and weight by going for those 1190-10 premounted? Or can’t you get glued tires off your wheels.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Dallas TX
    Posts
    332
    Quote Originally Posted by The Bean View Post
    That extra weight just can’t be good for my poor little VXL-3s…

    Can’t you also save money and weight by going for those 1190-10 premounted? Or can’t you get glued tires off your wheels.
    Certain tire glues come off easier than others but in the end it's really not efficient to tear tires off of a plastic rim just to glue new ones on.

    I misstated when I said metal wheels hexes, Proline calls them aluminum hex adapters but they are really just the inner wheel hex and they can come off so you can replace them if they ever strip. That's why I was trying to say that you should go with the Proline wheels I linked to before, the actual wheel hexes come off of the wheel so if you ever strip them you can just buy new ones instead of buying an entire new wheel set. Another benefit of this is that Proline sells aluminum wheel hex adapters that can replace the stock plastic ones so that they are harder to strip (or you can just replace them with new plastic ones as the aluminum is pretty expensive).

    Recommended Wheels https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/...unted-raid.asp

    Wheel Hex Adapters https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...ers-narrow.asp

    This is what I did for my E-revo (obviously with different wheels and tires) and now the thought of replacing my wheels because one of my hexes strip is out the window.

    In all honesty though, like I said, I had the most terrifying rustler you can possibly imagine and I never stripped a single wheel hex on that thing, it just shredded tires like they were made of electrical tape. You should be fine if you want to buy some off brand wheels as long as you crank down on that wheel nut, just be sure that you use a washer and loctite if you start to dig into the plastic with the nut. That's what I ended up having to do with my old trenchers.
    The present is theirs; the future, is mine.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    NL
    Posts
    263
    So, the 1191-10 wheels is shall be. And if I strip them again, I could get new plastic or metal ‘hexes’.

    Sadly, there is only one HS where I can buy them, but 1 is more than 0, so yay
    Last edited by The Bean; 10-22-2020 at 11:47 AM.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Dallas TX
    Posts
    332
    Quote Originally Posted by The Bean View Post
    So, the 1191-10 wheels is shall be. And if I strip them again, I could get new plastic or metal ‘hexes’.

    Sadly, there is only one HS where I can buy them, but 1 is more than 0, so yay
    I would see if you could find them on Amazon, that's where I bought mine.
    The present is theirs; the future, is mine.

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Clifton Park, NY
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I have been running aluminum beadlocks for years! Combine them with the steel hex from MIP X-Duty axles and you almost can't strip a hex. I sure never have. Beadlocks save you money in the long run because you can switch tires at will. I have had mine for five or six years and have had plenty of different tires on them. I also have a set of aluminum rims. You won't strip them either. They weigh almost the same as the plastic wheels but they most likely won't strip either.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    What brand are the wheels? They look great!

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    14,575
    Quote Originally Posted by Craigeoh View Post
    What brand are the wheels? They look great!
    They are Raceline Monster wheels by www.rx4wd.com. I am quite fond of them myself
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  16. #16
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    Posts
    1,456
    The link didn't work for me but I found this: https://store.rc4wd.com/

    Are they the same?

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier NitroBugg's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    MS
    Posts
    344
    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    The link didn't work for me but I found this: https://store.rc4wd.com/

    Are they the same?

    Yes....under Wheels, then Short Course Wheels. GREAT wheels, and El Sob talked me into trying them. Glad I did. I use the Mickey Thompson set on my bug...

    Last edited by NitroBugg; 10-26-2020 at 07:59 PM.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    14,575
    Quote Originally Posted by NitroBugg View Post
    Yes....under Wheels, then Short Course Wheels. GREAT wheels, and El Sob talked me into trying them. Glad I did. I use the Mickey Thompson set on my bug...

    I am happy that you are still happy with your wheels. I would recommend them to anyone looking for a quality set. Sorry I provided the wrong link. Here is the correct one.
    https://store.rc4wd.com/Short-Course-Wheels_c_70.html
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •