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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    Help on wiring in Hobbywing 10A UBEC

    Hey fellas.

    As title says, I need a little guidance wiring in this UBEC. What would be the best method of doing so?

    The hobbywing instructions arenít very clear on the 2 10amp outputs. Do I just plug them both into 2 unused ports on my receiver? I have a Y harness from another unrelated wiring project for one of my other rcs, could I use that and just take up one unused port on my receiver?

    I have the TQI tsm receiver and radio, if that helps any. Appreciate the help.


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  2. #2
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    You can use just one if you want. Those connectors are only rated at 5 or 7 amps, so larger becs come with 2 outputs. If you have 2 open spaces, could plug them both in just to keep it in place.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    How are you using it? Does your esc not provide a bec?

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    I have the mxl6s esc and itís been working fine, but I went to a 285oz servo single servo setup and added some lights for night time running. When I have my 4inch proline led light bar plugged in the light bar dims and the servo has almost no power.

    My esc canít provide enough power for everything so I did the usual googling. Everything said to get an external bec, and the hobbywing one came highly recommended. I just wasnít sure how to connect both output connectors to the TQI receiver because it has the one port for batt.


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  5. #5
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    Ok, I see what you are working with.

    So the first thing to understand is that inside the receiver, all the ground pins are on a single rail, and the power pins are on a single rail. That means you need exactly one ground (black) connection back to the power supply and exactly one power (red) connection back to the power supply. In this case, you have two becs to think about, so you actually have options.

    1) continue to use the esc bec exactly as you have it now, supplying power to the receiver and though that to the servo. Separately, connect your new bec to the battery (I assume you already have a splitter to connect both the new bec and the esc to the battery). Then use your new bec to power your light bar exclusively. The up shot of this scheme is that you can set the new bec to 8.4v and have a brighter bar, while your radio stays at 6v which it seems to have been designed for. (I couldn't find an authoritative source on the radio voltage, but that seems to be the consensus.)

    2) unplugged the esc from the radio, grab a small flathead screwdriver, and extract the red pin from the plug. The plug has a little plastic tab that keeps the metal pin in place, and once you lift it you can pull the power pin out by the red wire. Fold the pin back along the cable and wrap it in electrical tape. Now you can plug in just the ground and signal wires from the esc into the radio. Side note, what I have described is the recommended way to do it. However, it does potentially make a ground loop depending on the internals of your esc. If you try this and have weird feedback or noise, also disconnect the ground pin and only connect the signal pin to the esc. /End side note. Make sure your new bec is set to a voltage both the radio and servo can handle (i.e. 6V) and plug that into an empty slot. From there you can either plug the light bar into the radio for power, or you can directly connect the light bar to the second power cable coming from the new bec. I would recommend the direct light bar connection personally, as it reduces the amount of power you are putting through the radio traces.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by omen View Post
    Ok, I see what you are working with.

    So the first thing to understand is that inside the receiver, all the ground pins are on a single rail, and the power pins are on a single rail. That means you need exactly one ground (black) connection back to the power supply and exactly one power (red) connection back to the power supply. In this case, you have two becs to think about, so you actually have options.

    1) continue to use the esc bec exactly as you have it now, supplying power to the receiver and though that to the servo. Separately, connect your new bec to the battery (I assume you already have a splitter to connect both the new bec and the esc to the battery). Then use your new bec to power your light bar exclusively. The up shot of this scheme is that you can set the new bec to 8.4v and have a brighter bar, while your radio stays at 6v which it seems to have been designed for. (I couldn't find an authoritative source on the radio voltage, but that seems to be the consensus.)

    2) unplugged the esc from the radio, grab a small flathead screwdriver, and extract the red pin from the plug. The plug has a little plastic tab that keeps the metal pin in place, and once you lift it you can pull the power pin out by the red wire. Fold the pin back along the cable and wrap it in electrical tape. Now you can plug in just the ground and signal wires from the esc into the radio. Side note, what I have described is the recommended way to do it. However, it does potentially make a ground loop depending on the internals of your esc. If you try this and have weird feedback or noise, also disconnect the ground pin and only connect the signal pin to the esc. /End side note. Make sure your new bec is set to a voltage both the radio and servo can handle (i.e. 6V) and plug that into an empty slot. From there you can either plug the light bar into the radio for power, or you can directly connect the light bar to the second power cable coming from the new bec. I would recommend the direct light bar connection personally, as it reduces the amount of power you are putting through the radio traces.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    This is a great answer, but i have to point out 1 thing. The ground loop you describe, is what prevents having feedback. You want all grounds connected at the reciever, the esc, servo, and bec, along with any other loads. When you pull the ground from the esc, your sending a signal up the signal wire, and instead of returning to the reciever, it will go through the esc to the battery. That's when you can sometimes have issues. Connecting the ground from the esc prevents this.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve g View Post
    This is a great answer, but i have to point out 1 thing. The ground loop you describe, is what prevents having feedback. You want all grounds connected at the reciever, the esc, servo, and bec, along with any other loads. When you pull the ground from the esc, your sending a signal up the signal wire, and instead of returning to the reciever, it will go through the esc to the battery. That's when you can sometimes have issues. Connecting the ground from the esc prevents this.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
    Yes... Right up to the point where your motor starts up, generates a massive magnetic flux through the ground loop, induces transient current and therefore voltage in your ground wire, thus causing the voltage on the signal wires to become garbled by comparison. Is the signal high? Is it low? Who knows, the reference is bouncing all over the place.

    Sometimes it seems to work ok. I've definitely had it not work ok.

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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Got a link to the UBEC your using?
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Got a link to the UBEC your using?
    Here it is

    https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/prod...ant=1013205920


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  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by omen View Post
    Ok, I see what you are working with.

    So the first thing to understand is that inside the receiver, all the ground pins are on a single rail, and the power pins are on a single rail. That means you need exactly one ground (black) connection back to the power supply and exactly one power (red) connection back to the power supply. In this case, you have two becs to think about, so you actually have options.

    1) continue to use the esc bec exactly as you have it now, supplying power to the receiver and though that to the servo. Separately, connect your new bec to the battery (I assume you already have a splitter to connect both the new bec and the esc to the battery). Then use your new bec to power your light bar exclusively. The up shot of this scheme is that you can set the new bec to 8.4v and have a brighter bar, while your radio stays at 6v which it seems to have been designed for. (I couldn't find an authoritative source on the radio voltage, but that seems to be the consensus.)

    2) unplugged the esc from the radio, grab a small flathead screwdriver, and extract the red pin from the plug. The plug has a little plastic tab that keeps the metal pin in place, and once you lift it you can pull the power pin out by the red wire. Fold the pin back along the cable and wrap it in electrical tape. Now you can plug in just the ground and signal wires from the esc into the radio. Side note, what I have described is the recommended way to do it. However, it does potentially make a ground loop depending on the internals of your esc. If you try this and have weird feedback or noise, also disconnect the ground pin and only connect the signal pin to the esc. /End side note. Make sure your new bec is set to a voltage both the radio and servo can handle (i.e. 6V) and plug that into an empty slot. From there you can either plug the light bar into the radio for power, or you can directly connect the light bar to the second power cable coming from the new bec. I would recommend the direct light bar connection personally, as it reduces the amount of power you are putting through the radio traces.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Thank you for taking the time to go through that. I think I will do as you suggested and let the esc bec power servo and radio, and let the UBEC power my lights. Now to make me a jst adapter.


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  11. #11
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    So I made an adapter with 2 xt90 connectors to allow the use of the bec for the light bar when wanted/needed, it can be freely plugged in whenever. I had to solder some longer wires in to increase the wire length for where I want to put it. Itís not pretty but it gets the job done my soldering skills probably need work but I tested it and it works great.







    I am going to cover the exposed areas with liquid electrical tape to protect the solder joints from water dust etc.

    Now to build a small water proof box for the UBEC, I already decided to use the open space where the left servo would sit, itís a perfect area for it. All I have to make a box for it is some lexan sheet. Thanks again for the help in getting this figured out!


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  12. #12
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    xt90 for rich chunky amps. Very nice.

    You might also think about a loop of heat shrink tubing around the whole thing as a strain relief for the wires. Some hot glue might also help make it very sturdy.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    FWIW, I asked hobbywing support about it.
    I was curious why your UBEC has 2 output leads that appear to both be
    plugged into a receiver.

    https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/pages/ubec-10a-manual

    Is that necessary to plug both in to use 10A? Or is it just so you can
    plug one lead into the receiver and another into an accessory like a
    splitter for fans, lights, etc?

    Thank you for your time.
    Hello,

    1 lead won't support that much "juice", and often in a heli, there are so may servos in various locations that all that power through the RX can be problematic.

    For best performance, it's best to use both of them. Necessary, comes down to the fine details of the build.

    HOBBYWING
    North America Customer Support Center
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  14. #14
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    Ironically, you are still limited by the robustness of the traces in the radio

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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by omen View Post
    Ironically, you are still limited by the robustness of the traces in the radio

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Unless you bypass the receiver and run it to a splitter to then power things that don't need to go through the receiver, like fans, lights, etc.

    https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Fema.../dp/B015GNKJB0

    I guess there are still traces on there...
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Unless you bypass the receiver and run it to a splitter to then power things that don't need to go through the receiver, like fans, lights, etc.

    https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Fema.../dp/B015GNKJB0

    I guess there are still traces on there...
    That is definitely the right way to do it, but that's not exactly what the manufacturer suggested. Lol.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

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