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  1. #1
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    belt drive grub screw won't stay tight

    ok so i bought the belt drive from ARC hobbies and i've tried few different methods to tighten this this down.

    the smaller one on the motor is fine but the bigger pulley where the cush drive was keeps loosening up. i've tried red loctite, flattening the grub screw and basically double nutting the grub screws.

    anyone that has one of these got a way to keep the screw tight.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95blackz26 View Post
    ok so i bought the belt drive from ARC hobbies and i've tried few different methods to tighten this this down.

    the smaller one on the motor is fine but the bigger pulley where the cush drive was keeps loosening up. i've tried red loctite, flattening the grub screw and basically double nutting the grub screws.

    anyone that has one of these got a way to keep the screw tight.
    ŅHow many grub screws has your kit in each pulley?, mine from WFO Racing has two in each, mine's don't loose.

  3. #3
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Drill a small divet on the shaft where grub screw will sit. Per haps black sharpie then tighten to get the mark

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    ŅHow many grub screws has your kit in each pulley?, mine from WFO Racing has two in each, mine's don't loose.
    that kit came with like 8 of each. i tried one with some red loctite since it's what i had and then when that didn't work i repeated that put another grub screw on top of the first one(basically double nutting) and that still ended up loosening up.

    the pulley for the motor i can only put one in per hole. there's 2 holes offset on each pulley. the pulley on what would be the cush drive i can probably put 3 per hole.

    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Drill a small divet on the shaft where grub screw will sit. Per haps black sharpie then tighten to get the mark

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    i flattened the grub screw that would sit on the flat spot that's on the motor shaft and the one that goes where the cush drive is. figured more contact from the flattened grub screw would help but nope.
    Last edited by 95blackz26; 10-25-2020 at 05:23 PM.

  5. #5
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    A bit and a point on grub screw will work best. But you want to make sure where you back the divet with a drill bit to be right where you want it.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    i think my last run might have been not having the belt tight enough so it smoked all the ribs off the belt, it wasn't actually the grub screw loosening up on the last run.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95blackz26 View Post
    i think my last run might have been not having the belt tight enough so it smoked all the ribs off the belt, it wasn't actually the grub screw loosening up on the last run.
    Well, you can replace the belt easily, order spares from the website you buy your belt kit system, and run again.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    Well, you can replace the belt easily, order spares from the website you buy your belt kit system, and run again.
    it only let me buy 1 belt when i bought the kit. wouldn't let me add more than 1 to cart. so i finally found some on aliexpress. 5 belts for $16. got 10 of them since it's coming from china and takes awhile to get here. i should be good for awhile with belts.i beat on the truck the other day and the belt held up good so must have the correct tension. only thing is with the mesh cover is it keeps the heat in there.

    these belt drives are timing setups from industrial machines.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95blackz26 View Post
    it only let me buy 1 belt when i bought the kit. wouldn't let me add more than 1 to cart. so i finally found some on aliexpress. 5 belts for $16. got 10 of them since it's coming from china and takes awhile to get here. i should be good for awhile with belts.i beat on the truck the other day and the belt held up good so must have the correct tension. only thing is with the mesh cover is it keeps the heat in there.

    these belt drives are timing setups from industrial machines.
    Hope you have the belts soon.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    Hope you have the belts soon.
    i was able to buy 1 when i bought the kit so i'm using that now but i got 10 of them on the way from china.

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    after running it today and smoking yet another belt. i tried to tighten it up before i went out and with the B&M racing belt drive i'm out of adjustment unless i can raise the plate they give you. side to side i was already maxed out and this was with the stock setup belt drive they sell. only thing i can think of is i would need to shim it up with a piece of thick rubber the size of the motor base.

    thought the belts would have been a good idea but i can't even run it enough to hit the low voltage cut off for the lipo.

    as of now though i have 18/46 setup in it till my spurs arrive.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95blackz26 View Post
    after running it today and smoking yet another belt. i tried to tighten it up before i went out and with the B&M racing belt drive i'm out of adjustment unless i can raise the plate they give you. side to side i was already maxed out and this was with the stock setup belt drive they sell. only thing i can think of is i would need to shim it up with a piece of thick rubber the size of the motor base.

    thought the belts would have been a good idea but i can't even run it enough to hit the low voltage cut off for the lipo.

    as of now though i have 18/46 setup in it till my spurs arrive.
    WFO selling a shim for his motor mount. ARC has one similar too.

    https://arc-hobbies.com/collections/...lt-drive-12-30

  13. #13
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I don't know why they even still sell the belt setups. I feel sorry for the luck your having 95blackz26. Running belts create so much more heat compared to gears. There is so much friction going on with rubber against metal. Not to mention the side loads put on the motor and cush-drive shaft assembly. Those bearings weren't designed for that.

    IMHO I would run gears all day, any day and stay away from those fancy belt drives.

  14. #14
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    I’m getting ready to install a hobby wing 1100 KV max 5 combo kit. I was looking at the belt drive but for some reason I just don’t think it would hold up very well compared to gears.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ferro View Post
    I’m getting ready to install a hobby wing 1100 KV max 5 combo kit. I was looking at the belt drive but for some reason I just don’t think it would hold up very well compared to gears.
    Belt systems are a different way of life, each one install who wants, of course, I have stock gears, GDS aftermarket gears, 1,5 MOD gears and belt system, I change it as I want.

  16. #16
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    I’m trying to find a post where people talk about the 1100 KV motor can’t seem to find that much on it people doing it I would like to know what their thoughts are and we’re gearing they’re using.

  17. #17
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    I have 2 X maxx, almost identical the one difference, one is 800KV motor and the other one is 1100 KV hobbywing. Both have max 5

    In my opinion the 1100KV seems to be a little bit faster and backflips off jumps easily. The 800 KV has far more torque but counter intuitively, it seems to have a harder time doing backflips than the other. (Just barely though, both are double backflip maniacs in the air in need be)

    For some reason I prefer the 800 KV over the other. Their differences are almost negligible and itís fun to drive both.

    Pros/cons

    800kv

    Pro:
    loads of torque
    Very reliable
    Runs super cool (almost doesnít need fans, still I run.)

    Cons:
    BIG & HEAVY!
    Lower RPM (not sure if thatís a negative, just needs to be geared up)
    Sucks the life out of of lipos, make sure you go big on MAH



    1100KV

    Pro:

    Fast, higher RPM
    Light, slightly large than stock
    Seem better on battery consumption

    Cons:
    Over heats, definitely needs fans

    Both motors have 8mm shaft which seem to prefer 1.5 mod gears.

    Iíve tested a few different ratios out and have settled on the following:

    800kV = 35 spur / 30 pinion. Anything lower it seemed to lack power for wheelies and backflips.

    1100kv = 35 spur / 21 pinion iíve tried higher on the pinion, but it would over rotate on backflips and Iíve even blown out tires mid air with too much rotational mass.

    Hope my opinion helps your choice. Either way though, I think you canít go wrong with hobbywing setups.
    Last edited by afreek1000; 11-11-2020 at 05:38 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    I have 2 X maxx, almost identical the one difference, one is 800KV motor and the other one is 1100 KV hobbywing. Both have max 5

    In my opinion the 1100KV seems to be a little bit faster and backflips off jumps easily. The 800 KV has far more torque but counter intuitively, it seems to have a harder time doing backflips than the other. (Just barely though, both are double backflip maniacs in the air in need be)

    For some reason I prefer the 800 KV over the other. Their differences are almost negligible and it’s fun to drive both.

    Pros/cons

    800kv

    Pro:
    loads of torque
    Very reliable
    Runs super cool (almost doesn’t need fans, still I run.)

    Cons:
    BIG & HEAVY!
    Lower RPM (not sure if that’s a negative, just needs to be geared up)
    Sucks the life out of of lipos, make sure you go big on MAH



    1100KV

    Pro:

    Fast, higher RPM
    Light, slightly large than stock
    Seem better on battery consumption

    Cons:
    Over heats, definitely needs fans

    Both motors have 8mm shaft which seem to prefer 1.5 mod gears.

    I’ve tested a few different ratios out and have settled on the following:

    800kV = 35 spur / 30 pinion. Anything lower it seemed to lack power for wheelies and backflips.

    1100kv = 35 spur / 21 pinion i’ve tried higher on the pinion, but it would over rotate on backflips and I’ve even blown out tires mid air with too much rotational mass.

    Hope my opinion helps your choice. Either way though, I think you can’t go wrong with hobbywing setups.
    That was a huge help thank you. I don’t bash or do flips or anything else I’m just a guy who likes to run them on the road and big fields. That is the biggest reason why I decided to do the 1100 KV. I think that would be the better option for somebody like me.

  19. #19
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    The gearing I will be running is a 20/35.

  20. #20
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    Then yes, 1100kv should be great. Castle fans fit nice on that. You could almost go up to 25 t pinion if your just looking for speed. But 20 should be good.

  21. #21
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    Where do you get your gears I was looking at B&M. All I can see was a 25. Nothing in between.

  22. #22
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    WFO. but yes, they don’t have in between. So I went with a hot racing.

    https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-NS.../dp/B07H5PZMS3

    Though the gear is a little thinner on the width it meshes up fine and works great.

  23. #23
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    Thank you again for all your help greatly appreciated. I was going to go with WFO whole kit the offer but it seems like no one ever wants to answer emails or anything else last thing I ever wanna do is deal with a company like that.

  24. #24
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    Yes they’re bad. But if you keep badgering them they’ll get back to you. (Though we shouldn’t have to do that right?)

    The X maxx store is the same way. I’ve stopped doing business with them. I feel like WFO is the lesser of 2 evils thought.

  25. #25
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    I have heard a lot of bad things about WFO. But I figured I would call them or try to contact them that was several days ago never heard nothing back from them. Personally I’d rather not deal with people like that because just imagine how hard it would be if you had a problem with one of their products. If they don’t want to sell products to people then they shouldn’t be in business which something tells me they won’t be very long. Customer service is a big deal to me.

  26. #26
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    Yes, you’re right. But they have nice parts so I take the risk.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    WFO selling a shim for his motor mount. ARC has one similar too.

    https://arc-hobbies.com/collections/...lt-drive-12-30
    it came with the shim and that's what i had in there.. the belt was nice and tight when i first put it in but like any other belt once you use them you end up readjusting them. well when it came to that point it wasn't possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I don't know why they even still sell the belt setups. I feel sorry for the luck your having 95blackz26. Running belts create so much more heat compared to gears. There is so much friction going on with rubber against metal. Not to mention the side loads put on the motor and cush-drive shaft assembly. Those bearings weren't designed for that.

    IMHO I would run gears all day, any day and stay away from those fancy belt drives.
    i'm done with belts on this. that was one of my concerns with the bearings. all that side load will kill them especially the motor bearings.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ferro View Post
    I’m getting ready to install a hobby wing 1100 KV max 5 combo kit. I was looking at the belt drive but for some reason I just don’t think it would hold up very well compared to gears.
    don't do it. each run the belt didn't last long. it didn't even run the battery packs down much.
    Last edited by 95blackz26; 11-12-2020 at 09:33 AM.

  28. #28
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    I use a 980kv motor with my belt system, no issues.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    I have 2 X maxx, almost identical the one difference, one is 800KV motor and the other one is 1100 KV hobbywing. Both have max 5

    In my opinion the 1100KV seems to be a little bit faster and backflips off jumps easily. The 800 KV has far more torque but counter intuitively, it seems to have a harder time doing backflips than the other. (Just barely though, both are double backflip maniacs in the air in need be)

    For some reason I prefer the 800 KV over the other. Their differences are almost negligible and it’s fun to drive both.

    Pros/cons

    800kv

    Pro:
    loads of torque
    Very reliable
    Runs super cool (almost doesn’t need fans, still I run.)

    Cons:
    BIG & HEAVY!
    Lower RPM (not sure if that’s a negative, just needs to be geared up)
    Sucks the life out of of lipos, make sure you go big on MAH



    1100KV

    Pro:

    Fast, higher RPM
    Light, slightly large than stock
    Seem better on battery consumption

    Cons:
    Over heats, definitely needs fans

    Both motors have 8mm shaft which seem to prefer 1.5 mod gears.

    I’ve tested a few different ratios out and have settled on the following:

    800kV = 35 spur / 30 pinion. Anything lower it seemed to lack power for wheelies and backflips.

    1100kv = 35 spur / 21 pinion i’ve tried higher on the pinion, but it would over rotate on backflips and I’ve even blown out tires mid air with too much rotational mass.

    Hope my opinion helps your choice. Either way though, I think you can’t go wrong with hobbywing setups.
    Awesome comparison and review

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    I use a 980kv motor with my belt system, no issues.
    what size belt

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95blackz26 View Post
    what size belt
    220 milimeters long.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    220 milimeters long.
    mine was 195 with 12/30 pulleys. which is what B&M racing recommends for stock motors. personally i think if the stock motor sat higher it would have worked better because that would have allowed me to adjust it better.

    it adjusted perfect when the belt was new but like any belt where you manually set the tension you always end up re-adjusting it once it's been used for a bit.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95blackz26 View Post
    mine was 195 with 12/30 pulleys. which is what B&M racing recommends for stock motors. personally i think if the stock motor sat higher it would have worked better because that would have allowed me to adjust it better.

    it adjusted perfect when the belt was new but like any belt where you manually set the tension you always end up re-adjusting it once it's been used for a bit.
    In fact, I adjust or check the belt every run.

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