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  1. #1
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    New truck (nearly anyway) - What have I forgotten for day 1 as new owner?

    Hi guys just after a bit of advice please, in case I've missed something obvious, as an M-Maxx newbie.

    I'm getting an X-Maxx at some point in the next few weeks & just want to ensure I've got everything I need.
    I've a weeks leave to use from work & would like to use a lot of it to get some drive time in with the X-Maxx. What I don't want to do is spend the week waiting for parts to arrive. Working in a hospital has sucked this year & so I'm ready for a break and to have some bashing time.


    List so far to have ready before even running the truck, maybe even fitted before running...
    • Batteries & charger
    • Brute body, with all the mounting bits, washers etc (Keep the stock body fresh)
    • RPM oversize rear axle carriers
    • RPM bearing for the above
    • 2085x Servo (Still not sure this the right way to go long term. lol)


    Spares box ready for breakages during week 1...
    • A set of RPM arms
    • RPM threaded hinge pins
    • Stock bearings for front axle carriers


    Other stuff to think about...
    • Another set of batteries
    • RPM shock guards
    • Shock springs - 1.5 & 1.4 seem to be popular


    Thanks for all the help guys.

  2. #2
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    I would not do rpm a arms. I have broken 3 of them so far. 2 of them where the shock pin sits. I get they replaced under warranty. But a week turn around for me

    I would use Traxxas new hd a arms instead of rpm a arms. Beefier than stock. And comes in ~6 colors..

    Xmaxx is only car I consistently break rpm a-arms. Not sure why.

    Also perhaps to have in spares. The hinge pins and shock pins. So if you loose one when something breaks you have a back up.

    I've lost 2 of them now and it stopped my wkend of fun at the beach... Had a sawsall with carbide metal blades but wouldn't make a dent in a hinge pins to cut down smaller for the shock pin..

    If not doing rpm a arms may not need the threaded hinge pins... But perhaps keep on hand. In case for the rears. These will only work on the lower a arms and possibly rear uppers. Do not put them in front uppers as they will then interfere with the steering.

    If going to run in mud and sand a bunch shock socks may be helpful.

    Plug tire holes with tape and wrap tires with kevlar string or 100lb+ fishing line. To help save tires



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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    As a general rule (unless I see something that's glaring at me saying "I ain't worth a crap! I'm going to break! I'm going to break!") I just run my RC stuff stock and see if I develop any chronic issues. If I do, then I evaluate it to see if it's worth modifying. Sometimes it's best to let a cheap, easy to change, part break rather than have a problem with a more expensive part down the line, breaking, that's also hard to fix.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 10-29-2020 at 03:28 AM.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Hi guys just after a bit of advice please, in case I've missed something obvious, as an M-Maxx newbie.

    I'm getting an X-Maxx at some point in the next few weeks & just want to ensure I've got everything I need.
    I've a weeks leave to use from work & would like to use a lot of it to get some drive time in with the X-Maxx. What I don't want to do is spend the week waiting for parts to arrive. Working in a hospital has sucked this year & so I'm ready for a break and to have some bashing time.


    List so far to have ready before even running the truck, maybe even fitted before running...
    • Batteries & charger
    • Brute body, with all the mounting bits, washers etc (Keep the stock body fresh)
    • RPM oversize rear axle carriers
    • RPM bearing for the above
    • 2085x Servo (Still not sure this the right way to go long term. lol)


    Spares box ready for breakages during week 1...
    • A set of RPM arms
    • RPM threaded hinge pins
    • Stock bearings for front axle carriers


    Other stuff to think about...
    • Another set of batteries
    • RPM shock guards
    • Shock springs - 1.5 & 1.4 seem to be popular


    Thanks for all the help guys.
    Instead RPM A arms, I consider the Traxxas Heavy duty A arms, more durable, and the servo, if you want, buy the 1/10 servo adapter 7749, and you can put a better servo than stock or 2085X, I run a JX 46 kg and very well. The RPM rear hubs are a must have.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for all the replies guys. That's really helpful.

    The only reason I thought the RPM would be good for the spares box was the universal fit on any arm. Maybe I go with that idea still & use them as a temporary solution while HD arms come, if I break a stock arm that is.
    When fitting the RPM arms and pins, what do you have to drill out? Is it just the RPM arms or is there modification to the carriers required as well? Again, I'm just thinking I could carry an upper & lower RPM arm, with the RPM threaded pins attached & ready to go. These would replace any broken arm on the truck.
    I've had RPM arms forever on my trucks & they've been great parts, it's shame they mixed reviews on the X-Maxx.

    I'm not after upgrading stuff I don't need to, especially before even using it, I'm very much a "Ain't broke, don't fix" kind of guy. What would be great though is to have a set of a spares to keep the truck running & not have to spend lots of time waiting on parts. You know, the stuff that people seem to break more frequently that can easily be swapped out & aren't too expensive to keep in a box at home.
    I'm particularly keen on this for when I've got my week off work soon.

    Spare hinge pins added to the spares list, what about these cheap bearing sets I see on Ebay? Seems like 25 well spent if it keeps the truck alive.

    The servo seems to be a ongoing question. I think my current plan is swap to the 2085x on day one, then keep the stock one as a spare.

    Sorry for yet more questions & thanks again guys.

  6. #6
    RC Racer Nickerz's Avatar
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    Plastic Servo Gears...

    My servo gears (plastic) stripped several times in the beginning. Traxxas sent me replacements for free each time btw but then I eventually replaced the plastic gears with metal ones ($30) instead of buying the $100 metal servo and I haven't had an issue since. I posted some info about it here...

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...=4#post6499381

    ...so this is an area of concern with the cheap plastic servo but my truck is completely stock with the exception of these metal servo gears and it's taken a beating over the 2 1/2 years, maybe not the kind of beating of ones like Kevin Talbot impose - lol but this truck does take a lickin' and keeps on tickin'!!!

    I haven't used RPM Arms but the consistent feedback, at least for the X-Maxx is DON'T. For some reason, the RPM Arms are junk. I'm sure RPM has other stuff for other trucks, even the X-Maxx maybe but I'd fallback on using the upgraded Traxxas arms. I've only broke one arm so far and at that time I replaced it with another cheap stock arm but I think I will try the upgraded Traxxas arms next if it happens again.

    I just watched a video last night where the guy kept breaking RPM arms and yes their warranty will replace them at no charge but he got tired of waiting for replacements, he broke that many arms. He then used the new Traxxas arms and hasn't had that problem.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    If not doing rpm a arms may not need the threaded hinge pins... But perhaps keep on hand. In case for the rears. These will only work on the lower a arms and possibly rear uppers. Do not put them in front uppers as they will then interfere with the steering.
    I am running stock arms, with the RPM rear carriers. I have used the RPM threaded hinge pins on rear upper and lower, as well as front upper and lower. I had to modify the front upper pin to fit without steering interference. I ground the head of the pin down to be 1mm thick and ground flats on opposite sides so I could use a 5mm wrench to hold it while I tightened the nut. By inserting the pin from the rear, it avoids any interference and fits without using spaces or washers.

  8. #8
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Thanks for all the replies guys. That's really helpful.

    The only reason I thought the RPM would be good for the spares box was the universal fit on any arm. Maybe I go with that idea still & use them as a temporary solution while HD arms come, if I break a stock arm that is.
    When fitting the RPM arms and pins, what do you have to drill out? Is it just the RPM arms or is there modification to the carriers required as well? Again, I'm just thinking I could carry an upper & lower RPM arm, with the RPM threaded pins attached & ready to go. These would replace any broken arm on the truck.
    I've had RPM arms forever on my trucks & they've been great parts, it's shame they mixed reviews on the X-Maxx.

    I'm not after upgrading stuff I don't need to, especially before even using it, I'm very much a "Ain't broke, don't fix" kind of guy. What would be great though is to have a set of a spares to keep the truck running & not have to spend lots of time waiting on parts. You know, the stuff that people seem to break more frequently that can easily be swapped out & aren't too expensive to keep in a box at home.
    I'm particularly keen on this for when I've got my week off work soon.

    Spare hinge pins added to the spares list, what about these cheap bearing sets I see on Ebay? Seems like 25 well spent if it keeps the truck alive.

    The servo seems to be a ongoing question. I think my current plan is swap to the 2085x on day one, then keep the stock one as a spare.

    Sorry for yet more questions & thanks again guys.
    To use the rpm hinge pins you have to drill out the back of the a arm . Stock and rpm have it so the pin can not slide out on the one side. So to use the rpm thrraded hinge pins you drill out that part. It's like 3mm or so of material to drill out. I forget the drill bit size. But it's whatever the hinge pins thickness is. Think 4 or 5mm.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    Cheers guys. All sounds like I'm fairly organised.

    Is the cheap bearing set a good plan for emergency spares?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    As a general rule (unless I see something that's glaring at me saying "I ain't worth a crap! I'm going to break! I'm going to break!") I just run my RC stuff stock and see if I develop any chronic issues. If I do, then I evaluate it to see if it's worth modifying. Sometimes it's best to let a cheap, easy to change, part break rather than have a problem with a more expensive part down the line, breaking, that's also hard to fix.
    This makes sense. Everyone drives their rc's different, just because something breaks on somebody elses rig doesn't mean it will break on yours. I have run mine stock out of the box with no problems except for steering servo and then I upgraded that.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Cheers guys. All sounds like I'm fairly organised.

    Is the cheap bearing set a good plan for emergency spares?
    I think the cheap bearings are OK for an emergency.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    I think the cheap bearings are OK for an emergency.
    That's pretty much what I'd decided on. It'll keep the truck running if 1 fails.

  13. #13
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    Can someone make sense of the suspension pins for me. I've got myself confused.

    There seems to be 3 sets of pins listed on the exploded views. I thought you just needed a set of 6 for each corner, 2 inner, 2 outer, 2 shock.


    7740 - set of 6 (1x85mm, 3x47mm, 2x33mm) 1 Lower Inner, 3 Upper Inner and 2 Outer, plus 2 more for ????

    7741 - set of 2 (2x85mm) - Lower Inners again?

    7742 - set of 4 (2x38mm, 2x25mm) - Shocks? Top and bottom different lengths?

    I just can't work out what goes where?

  14. #14
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Can someone make sense of the suspension pins for me. I've got myself confused.

    There seems to be 3 sets of pins listed on the exploded views. I thought you just needed a set of 6 for each corner, 2 inner, 2 outer, 2 shock.


    7740 - set of 6 (1x85mm, 3x47mm, 2x33mm) 1 Lower Inner, 3 Upper Inner and 2 Outer, plus 2 more for ????

    7741 - set of 2 (2x85mm) - Lower Inners again?

    7742 - set of 4 (2x38mm, 2x25mm) - Shocks? Top and bottom different lengths?

    I just can't work out what goes where?
    Part 7741 is only the lower inner a arm pin. They give you two.

    You want 7740 and 7742.

    7740 is a complete pin set for one corner for the a arm. Does not include the pins for the shocks.

    And 7742 is shock pins. One for the in the tower and the other in the a arm. This gives you pins for 2 shocks.

    Hope this helps.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  15. #15
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    Got it, thank you.
    just had another look and found the pins I'd missed are for the steering on the front carriers.

  16. #16
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    And.......



















    That's my truck ordered...

  17. #17
    RC Racer Nickerz's Avatar
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    Congrats! We look forward to seeing pics and videos of it when it comes in!

  18. #18
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    Already got my Brute shell. Gonna be stickering it up this weekend hopefully. There's pics of that in my other thread.
    Truck pics will be boring unfortunately, I pretty much run on my own, so no great way to get action shots or vids.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    And.......



















    That's my truck ordered...
    Congrats mate.

  20. #20
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    So new truck is here. I've been so busy it's not even been run yet, other than twice round the yard to check it was functional. It's also nearly constant rain here currently, so that doesn't help.



    It's currently stock still, barring the body. I've full set of cheap bearing on order & already have a few other spares just in case, including the RPM carriers that I'll fit whenever I get time as a preventive measure.

    Job list still to do before taking it out (if the rain ever stops)...
    • Program in my 5 channel TQi & check for updates
    • Check ESC is calibrated correctly with new transmitter
    • Swap out servo to the 2085X & set end points etc
    • Space up the batteries for a proper fit
    • Check over the obvious truck fastenings, motor mount, wheels, etc


    Anything else worth looking at before a proper first run please?
    Provided we don't get too many Covid admissions at work, I'm still hoping for a week off soon & don't want the new truck out of action! Now the UK is entering lockdown again, there won't be much else to do.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    So new truck is here. I've been so busy it's not even been run yet, other than twice round the yard to check it was functional. It's also nearly constant rain here currently, so that doesn't help.



    It's currently stock still, barring the body. I've full set of cheap bearing on order & already have a few other spares just in case, including the RPM carriers that I'll fit whenever I get time as a preventive measure.

    Job list still to do before taking it out (if the rain ever stops)...
    • Program in my 5 channel TQi & check for updates
    • Check ESC is calibrated correctly with new transmitter
    • Swap out servo to the 2085X & set end points etc
    • Space up the batteries for a proper fit
    • Check over the obvious truck fastenings, motor mount, wheels, etc


    Anything else worth looking at before a proper first run please?
    Provided we don't get too many Covid admissions at work, I'm still hoping for a week off soon & don't want the new truck out of action! Now the UK is entering lockdown again, there won't be much else to do.
    Looks awesome, congrats for your monster, enjoy it. Check the grease in the diffs and the grub screw in the pinion.

  22. #22
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    Completely forgot about the pinion, good job I asked.
    Thank you.

  23. #23
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    Quick question, since it's always wet at the minute, is it worth taping or gluing up the holes in the wheels?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Quick question, since it's always wet at the minute, is it worth taping or gluing up the holes in the wheels?
    I forgot it, yes, is better to taping the holes, I put duck tape in it.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    I forgot it, yes, is better to taping the holes, I put duck tape in it.
    But be careful, if you are doing a lot of high speed driving then taping the wheels could be a nightmare, it causes them to balloon really weirdly which is terrible for handling and can make you careen out of control. If you are just going to be driving it around on stock gearing then you should be fine though.
    The present is theirs; the future, is mine.

  26. #26
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    Ok been busy this afternoon...
    • Program in my 5 channel TQi & check for updates Check
    • Check ESC is calibrated correctly with new transmitter Check
    • Swap out servo to the 2085X & set end points etc Check
    • Check over the obvious truck fastenings, motor mount, wheels, etc Check
    • Check pinion is tight Check
    • Space up the batteries for a proper fit
    • Sort wheel holes


    Anything else to check? Still raining, so it's not like I can run it.

    I think with my slow driving & stock gearing, I'm gonna try sealing the holes on the wheels, see how it goes.

    The telemetry is a bit confusing through the app. I can get ESC temp ok, but do I need a separate sensor for the motor?

  27. #27
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    For the telemetry You have to set the dashboard gauges. They don't populate automatically. So click on a location and then add what you want.

    I set a esc temp alarm at 160 and motor at 170.

    Oh the trx phone holder for the tx is worthwhile....


    In regards to the rain.... Truck can get wet ..... But depends if you want to stand in it

    Most of all remember to have fun with your new truck!


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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    For the telemetry You have to set the dashboard gauges. They don't populate automatically. So click on a location and then add what you want.

    I set a esc temp alarm at 160 and motor at 170.

    Oh the trx phone holder for the tx is worthwhile....

    In regards to the rain.... Truck can get wet ..... But depends if you want to stand in it
    I thought I was ok with the app, I use it on all my trucks. I'm just used to seeing a separate sensor that has to be plugged into the receiver for the motor temp. Is that somehow built into the X-Maxx electronics?
    I worked out the battery voltage & what I presume is ESC temp, just struggling with motor temp. Only really bothered about those 3 to be honest.
    I maybe need to have another play with it when I'm running the truck. (Bit of rain would be fine, but it's been shocking all afternoon, now it's dark. lol.

    Already have the phone mount, it's surprisingly good. Holds even a big phone really well.

    My list is complete, unless there's anything to add?
    Fingers crossed the rain stops at the weekend. Working most for most of daylight hours through the week, so it's only weekend driving really.

    • Program in my 5 channel TQi & check for updates Check
    • Check ESC is calibrated correctly with new transmitter Check
    • Swap out servo to the 2085X & set end points etc Check
    • Check over the obvious truck fastenings, motor mount, wheels, etc Check
    • Check pinion is tight Check
    • Space up the batteries for a proper fit Check
    • Sort wheel holes Check

  29. #29
    RC Racer Nickerz's Avatar
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    Congrats on your new truck! I like what you did with the Proline body, looks great!!! I've got a green one too and if I had to do it all over again, I would get a Proline body and would have kept my Traxxas body for when she's sitting on my shelf.

    And yes, I taped the holes on all my wheels from day 1 and have had no issues. I saw a recent video of Kevin Talbot now doing this and it seems to make the tires last longer.

    I'm almost finished with my cleaning and maintenance and mine is looking new again but sure love that brand new look and smell of new tires - lol! I stripped it all down, even the electronics and gave her a good thorough cleaning so I'm going to post those before/after pics in another thread.

    Take lots of pics of yours while it's brand spankin' new since it won't last long. Enjoy your beast but man she looks so pretty all new - lol!!!!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    I thought I was ok with the app, I use it on all my trucks. I'm just used to seeing a separate sensor that has to be plugged into the receiver for the motor temp. Is that somehow built into the X-Maxx electronics?
    I worked out the battery voltage & what I presume is ESC temp, just struggling with motor temp. Only really bothered about those 3 to be honest.
    I maybe need to have another play with it when I'm running the truck. (Bit of rain would be fine, but it's been shocking all afternoon, now it's dark. lol.

    Already have the phone mount, it's surprisingly good. Holds even a big phone really well.

    My list is complete, unless there's anything to add?
    Fingers crossed the rain stops at the weekend. Working most for most of daylight hours through the week, so it's only weekend driving really.

    • Program in my 5 channel TQi & check for updates Check
    • Check ESC is calibrated correctly with new transmitter Check
    • Swap out servo to the 2085X & set end points etc Check
    • Check over the obvious truck fastenings, motor mount, wheels, etc Check
    • Check pinion is tight Check
    • Space up the batteries for a proper fit Check
    • Sort wheel holes Check
    Your list is OK IMHO, I hate to get wet into rain when run my rigs , I have the mobile mount too, it's outstanding.

  31. #31
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    So I finally had a run on Friday evening. Took it all very easy. I can't believe how well the truck drives over anything you throw it at.
    Had an absolute blast. I sure I wasn't this impressed when I first drove my old E-Revo.

    This bank is a lot steeper than it appears in the pic, but the truck didn't even break a sweat.



    One good thing about the stickers, they hide the mud!


  32. #32
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    Also, you will want to change out the diff. fluid at some point. If I remember correctly I used 500k front, 500k rear and 20m in center diff. I run the 8s truck not the 6s

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