New to RC

[RangerHarry]

Hi, so I am getting back into the RC hobby after years, and dont remember anything from then. I think I have a 2008 or older Slash 2WD. and the batteries are completely dead. I has to use NiMh batteries and have questions about buying new batteries.

1)What is the difference between the 6 and 7 cell batteries?

2)If I get a 4200 mah 6 cell batteries and a 4200 mah 7 cell batteries, would the drive time be different? If so how how much drive time would I loss?

3)What brand battery should i buy. All I can find online are venom, but I am hearing not to good reviews on them.

Thanks to all

[RCWilly]

1. 6 cell has a voltage of 7.2V and 7 cell has a voltage of 8.4V. The higher to voltage, the more power the car has.

2. The drive time would be the same, higher mAh ratings means longer run times.

3. NiMH batteries are not as common as they used to be. The most common type of battery used now is the LiPo (Lithium Polymer) battery. LiPos deliver more power and are much lighter than NiMH batteries. Traxxas makes some NiMH batteries, though they are priced a bit high. The popular brands for LiPos include SMC, Gens Ace, Traxxas (these are what I can think of atm, I'm sure there are much more).

Note: If you want to use LiPo batteries, you might want to change your ESC and motor to one that can take LiPos.

[RangerHarry]

Thank you for answering all of the questions.

So I don't wasn't to spend too much money on the car right now just incase if I fall out of the hobby again. But I see a lot of people use Castle ESC and motors, do you know if that is a company that makes better ESC and motors? I dont plan to do anything like racing or other extrema stuff, maybe I will take it out to some of the dirt fields.

Also do you know how to store NiMH batteries so they wont die on you and should I get Venom batteries or is that not a good company to get batteries from?

[RCWilly]

Castle ESCs and motors are great. I have the Castle SW4 ESC with the 3800kv motor, and it has tons of torque and power. It also runs fairly quiet. Hobbywing also makes some great combos. Many people go with the Hobbywing Max 10 combo.

To store NiMH batteries store them at 50% charge, in a dry place without direct sunlight (also try not to leave it in extreme hot or cold temps too long). I don't have any experience with Venom, but I don't think you would have an issue with them. The only NiMH batteries I have are from Traxxas (came with my truck), and they are working great after almost 2 years of usage.

[RangerHarry]

Got it, thanks for all the help. I will look into the ESC and motor swap.

[grizzly03]

Do you plan on getting new NiMh batteries along with getting a new ESC and motor? Upgrading to a brushless setup from a brushed setup is going to ask more of the batteries.

[RangerHarry]

I am planning on getting NiMH batteries at first, maybe just one, and if I stay in this hobby for a year or two then I will decide to switch to LiPo and change the ESC and Motor



there does that long skinny wire go too?

[RCWilly]

The image link you posted isn't working. The image posting thing here is a bit finicky at first, but once you do it once or twice, it gets easier. If you are using a phone to post the image, many people use the Tapatalk app (I am not completely sure how that works, but hopefully someone will reply). If you are using a computer or laptop to post the image, I use Imgur to post images. To do that, first, create an account on Imgur and log in (it's free). The on the top right corner, click on your username and click on images:



After that, just drag the image in, and it should automatically upload.

Next, click on the uploaded image, and it should show a screen like this:



Copy the BBCode, and you can paste it here (without using the insert image).

[RangerHarry]

oh hope this works



what does that wire that i circled go to?

[smeezy]

That wire plugs into the temperature port on the motor that comes in the Hobbywing Combo.

[smeezy]

Here is a photo that shows this wire

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[Calebs0615]

I believe its so the esc can shut the motor down, or turn it down at least, if it gets too hot.

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[smeezy]

I believe its so the esc can shut the motor down, or turn it down at least, if it gets too hot.

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That is correct. This wire is what relays the motor temperature to the ESC to trigger thermal shutdown protection if it gets too hot.

[RCWilly]

Yes, that is for the temperature sensor. Here's a color-coded picture of where everything goes:

[Calebs0615]

Thats a very convenient option to have for your setup. You can buy a programmer box and set a bunch of different things. I think it comes with the cable youd need. The box is like 30$. Well worth the investment. It can do tons of things. From setting the shut down temps like were talking about, to stuff like punch control or even setting endpoints for your servo so it doesnt turn go too far either way.

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[RangerHarry]

oh that helps clarify things up. I thought I would had to get an other part. Thank you to all of you guys for the responses

[Calebs0615]

Its preset to a number but I have no idea what it would be.. Somebody else might be able to tell you.

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[Scootern29]

The factory default is 221 degrees F on the EZ Run Max 10. I just bought a combo with a 5400kv motor for my slash based drag car. For $100 it's comparable to my other car with a Castle SW3 with 5700kv which costs double that. It would be way to much for a Slash off road truck. Go with a smaller kv motor. I bought the program card for $20 with cable online, I haven't used it yet, but maybe tomorrow to adjust braking power.

[Calebs0615]

221 seems way too high doesn't it?

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[cooleocool]

Re: Ni-Mh storage, Ni-Mh cells have self discharging properties. If left for too long, they will self discharge themselves down to nothing resulting in an unusable battery pack (as you've found out). The easiest way to store them for long periods of time is to store them fully charged and top them off every month or so.

[Scootern29]

221 seems way too high doesn't it?

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I think that is way too high. My Castle ESC shuts down around 175 F which is pretty hot. The hottest I have seen on the motor is 138 F. The HW does have a fan on it though and I haven't checked temps yet on my limited use.

[RangerHarry]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will look into them more.

I recently rebuilt my shocks and replaced the diaphragms and switched to aluminum shock caps. Today I go to change the springs to some stiffer ones and I see that 2 of the shocks are leaking oil form the top. I had made sure that the diaphragms created a good seal by pushing the piston rod half way up, putting on the diaphragm cap and pulling the rod down to create a vacuum seal. Then I put the caps on , making sure not to cross thread, to hand tight and they were all fine. In the picture below you can see the oil sits at the top and under the lip. Dose anyone know what could have caused the leak then?



Thanks

[Calebs0615]

I think that is way too high. My Castle ESC shuts down around 175 F which is pretty hot. The hottest I have seen on the motor is 138 F. The HW does have a fan on it though and I haven't checked temps yet on my limited use.

Yeah... I remember reading that inside a brushless motor, the adhesive holding the magnets together will melt away and burn up the motor if it sustains over 176 for too long or something like that.

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[Calebs0615]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will look into them more.

I recently rebuilt my shocks and replaced the diaphragms and switched to aluminum shock caps. Today I go to change the springs to some stiffer ones and I see that 2 of the shocks are leaking oil form the top. I had made sure that the diaphragms created a good seal by pushing the piston rod half way up, putting on the diaphragm cap and pulling the rod down to create a vacuum seal. Then I put the caps on , making sure not to cross thread, to hand tight and they were all fine. In the picture below you can see the oil sits at the top and under the lip. Dose anyone know what could have caused the leak then?



Thanks

Id take your caps back off and make sure the diaphragm didn't move. And be careful not to cross thread the caps on the shocks. Its easier than you think. Also make sure they're really tight.

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[Steve g]

I has built my shocks like that once. Same result. What happens is there is no vacuum when you tighten the cap, so when you compress the shock, the shaft is increasing the volume in the tube, beyond what the diaphragm can absorb, pressurizing the tube and forcing oil past the seals. I tighten them now with about 1/3rd the shaft sticking out. And when the cap fully seats, it'll slightly push the shaft out some. When your done, cycle it without the spring, make sure that it isn't hard to push all the way in, or pull all the way out.

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