Planning on getting a 6s RC. Strengths/weaknesses E-revo 2.0?

[The Bean]

I want a 6s skatepark/sort of extreme basher, and at first, I was looking at the 6s Notorious and upgrading it a lot (ARRMA chassis/shock towers/chassis braces are weak), but after some maths, I saw it would cost me:

$550 ARRMA Notorious 6s
($130) M2C chassis
$150 Other upgraded parts
$50 better transmitter
= $750, excluding the M2C chassis.

And only than would it be strong enough to realy bash it hard.
This seemed an ok price to me (a little high for somebody who's just getting into high school), and than I wouldn't even have the almost unbreakable M2C chassis, wich would add another $130 (= $880), wich would make it waaaayyy to expensive for my liking.

But then, I remembered that Traxxas plastic chassis are very strong, and cost A QUARTER of the price, so I did a little research (1 hour of google/youtube), and made this parts list:

$600 E-Revo 2.0
$10 Chassis brace rear (aluminum)
$5 Limiting straps
= $615

Only this price for a very strong basher? What happened to 'The E-Revo 2.0 is way to fragile'? Did I miss something? What else should be upgraded? (I want it to be able to land high jumps/flips just straight on its wheels without breaking).
I've heared a lot about toe links breaking. Was that the big issue that everybody had? Can't you solve it with the $50 'tubes' (= $665)Or is it something else I didn't hear/read about?

If I would go for an E-Revo 2.0 with all the mentioned parts ,
($665, planned batteries = 2x $85 SMC 3s 7000 mAh)
it would be a lot cheaper than the Notorious
($880, planned batteries = 1x $100 SMC 6500 mAh 6s + 1x $45 4s 4500 mAh)

(880 + 100 + 45) - (665 + 2x 85) = would save me around $200

Should I go for the E-Revo, or am I missing some mayor issues with it?

I also posted this on the ARRMA forum, and that post is a lot shorter.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/u...vestyle.29711/
Sorry, this is a lot

[omen]

The erovo 2.0 is tough, make no mistake. But it's also heavy, especially if you add dual 7000 mAh 3S SMC batteries (that's what I run). So when you do crash, it's like a freight train.

I had one crash full speed. Had to replace the servos, the transmission, the front bulkhead, the front aluminum plate, and the batteries. But, it's not surprising when you start thinking about the kinetic energy involved.

The erevo handles great. Just ask yourself if you enjoy working on your rc cars as well as driving them.

[The Bean]

Yeah, I heared the ARRMA's are way easier to work on than this RC. I prefer not to spend to long at the workbench, but I can live with it, if it could save me $200.

Also, the Notorious weighs almost the same as the E-Revo, and I'd rather ram a mostly plastic truck into a wall than something wth a $130 chassis.

What's your experience with the toe links? I've heared they break very easily. Is that true?

Also, I just read the awnsers on the ARRMA forum, and of course they advise the Notorious. If you exclude the chassis, it is probably worth the cost

[omen]

Never personally broke a toe link. I try to be nice to my truck, but like I indicated, sometimes things to do go terribly wrong.

[grizzly03]

The biggest deciding factor for me is parts availability. My local hobby shop usually has any part that I need in stock. It's no fun if you need to wait for parts. You can find Traxxas everywhere.

[The Bean]

True, but Horizon Hobby is getting very popular too

[Rico116]

I had my rear toe link broke before. I let my dad drive the car he accidentally got confused hit the throttle backwards instead of forward slammed into a metal sign post. Right now I have aluminum and just have a scuff on the aluminum but aluminum does bend though. I personally like the beefier aluminum toe links 8mm because they are beefier and they are alot easier to grab with a wrench for toe link adjustment. Compared to the stock front 5mm.

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[The Bean]

I have heared that you don’t need the M2C chassis. Excluding that, and including battery costs, both vehicles cost the same. Than, the Notorious seems the best choice tor me. Tnx tor the awnsers!

[ElectricPropils]

Yeah, I heared the ARRMA's are way easier to work on than this RC. I prefer not to spend to long at the workbench, but I can live with it, if it could save me $200.

Also, the Notorious weighs almost the same as the E-Revo, and I'd rather ram a mostly plastic truck into a wall than something wth a $130 chassis.

What's your experience with the toe links? I've heared they break very easily. Is that true?

Also, I just read the awnsers on the ARRMA forum, and of course they advise the Notorious. If you exclude the chassis, it is probably worth the cost

I broke my rear toe link by drifting my back wheel into a post. It was a $20 dollar fix for 2 metal rods and a whole bunch of rod ends. That shouldn't really be a deciding factor for you, what should however be something to consider is that I recently shredded a gear somewhere in my transmission and now I have to take my whole car apart just to see what the problem is. The E-revo chassis has been around for a while and the reason it is so good is because it is compact and has good handling, but being compact has disadvantages. If you want a good all around car I would just get the Maxx, I know it isn't 6s but with the Widemaxx kit and some good batteries you have a monster truck that drives like the E-revo but is way more durable an easier to work on.

I hope I was able to help with your decision.

[The Bean]

Yeah, the long repair times are a turn-down for a lot of poeple, incl. me. I don't realy care enough about handeling/cornering enough to compensate for that issue, as I just want a good skatepark basher.

For me, the Notorious will probably be the perfect truck.

[ElectricPropils]

Yeah, the long repair times are a turn-down for a lot of poeple, incl. me. I don't realy care enough about handeling/cornering enough to compensate for that issue, as I just want a good skatepark basher.

For me, the Notorious will probably be the perfect truck.

Then I would definitely say Maxx, that thing takes a beating. The E-revo just weighs too much for large jumps.

[The Bean]

Plastic chassis are strong!

tnx for all the advice, guys!

[ElectricPropils]

Plastic chassis are strong!

tnx for all the advice, guys!

No problem man, I hope that you enjoy your new RC no matter what it may be!

[The Bean]

Tnx! Sadly, I have to wait till feb. I’ll be moving to the US, and whatever RC I buy, it would save me over $100

[olds97_lss]

I have both the outcast 6s and ERBEv2.

On the outcast, I have the M2C chassis, M2C rear tower brace, alloy chassis braces, titanium towers, RPM arms, RPM front bumper/skid, tbone rear skid/wheelie bar and a few other tidbits. Aside from the sporadic diff issue, lately it has been my toughest truck.

The ERBEv2 has tbone front/rear skids/wheelie bar, RPM arms on the front (not really necessary), hard anno/tini shocks, alloy rockers, newest HD pushrods (steel with marginally thicker ends), alloy center chassis tunnel, homeade rear chassis brace and rear shock limiting straps.

It can take a lot of abuse. I have one nagging issue that I can't seem to solve and it's the stupid battery doors. I have literally 1 bash session on it with brand new doors and the hinges are already starting to crack. I've been through 4 sets of doors this summer which consists of 12 bash sessions, each had 2 sets of packs run through it (5000mah 3S hrb, cnhl, liperior).

I've also been through 3 sets of VDK shock pistons on it in the past year. They keep snapping in half on me. This last time, I just put in stock pistons. The VDK's seem to split where the groove is for the reed valve. I run heavier oil, 60-70wt.

FWIW, the M2C chassis IS necessary if you like big air. It's necessary for every one of arrma's trucks, the longer ones more so than the shorter ones, but I bent my stock chassis more than once before swapping it out for the m2c3005 ARRMA GOLIATH chassis. Better towers are also necessary unless you land every single jump on it's wheels. The rear tower moreso than the front.

[EclipseMantis]

Also, I just read the awnsers on the ARRMA forum, and of course they advise the Notorious

One thing that I've noticed that's semi-unrelated is that everyone seems to think that anyone that likes Traxxas is instantly a "fanboy" and can't listen to anyone who says anything else, but it seems like the Arrma people are even more that way.

[The Bean]

Ive heared it the other way around, that the Traxxas guys are worse ��. Probably depends on who you ask. Some of them aren’t even ARRMA fanboys, because they like for example losi and hobao to, but they only hate Traxxas.

Tnx for the extra info, Olds97

[olds97_lss]

Ive heared it the other way around, that the Traxxas guys are worse ��. Probably depends on who you ask. Some of them aren’t even ARRMA fanboys, because they like for example losi and hobao to, but they only hate Traxxas.

Tnx for the extra info, Olds97

I have both... so that makes me a Tekno fanboy.

[ElectricPropils]

Ive heared it the other way around, that the Traxxas guys are worse ��. Probably depends on who you ask. Some of them aren’t even ARRMA fanboys, because they like for example losi and hobao to, but they only hate Traxxas.

Tnx for the extra info, Olds97

I would consider myself a Traxxas fanboy, I mean the only other RC I've ever owned was a Axial SCX10 II and I didn't really care for it, at the time I payed the same for it as my Trx-4 and it underperformed in almost every way. I basically swore to Traxxas that day, but part of my wants the Proboat Miss Geico.

In the end Traxxas is the Largest RC company in the world so they have a lot to live up to, all of their products are pretty solid and their customer service has only ever been good to me. All of this along with amazing part availability and me living 30 minutes from their headquarters, and there is no reason for me to ever buy from another company.

[The Bean]

I’m not really a fan of traxxas because of the higher prices, though I would easily reccommend it to any beginner (1:10 4x4) who is willing to pay more than an other brand would charge. There is a reason for the popularity of that product line. The 1:10 are the perfect beginners vehiclws, and stay great, even if you have other trucks, and from what I’ve heared, their great for projects.

ARRMA on the other hand makes great (1:8) vehicles, but need a lot of upgrades, so, to me, they seem great for poeple who are more experienced; but still want bashing and not racing vehicles.

[TwoBelugas]

I am a fan but not fanboy of traxxas. At the rate TRaxxas is making bodies, tires, wheels etc proprietary in addition to batteries, I have morved on to a mixture of brands include kit only ones. The continuous creep of price doesn’t help, remember when you weren’t forced to pay for a lighting kit to get a UDR? Pepperidge Farms remembers.

But, that being said, One thing traxxas does do well is it’s plastic chassis. Everyone else is choosing the easy way out by using a flat aluminum chassis then you inevitably have to get better chassis braces because they all come with cheap plastic braces stock. The Maxx is a phenomenal car for the market because even arrma fanboys can’t bash it for anything, and the plastic tub chassis is a big part of it. I applaud TRaxxas sticking with both the legacy 1/10 lines and continue to make parts available decade, sometimes decades, later, while continue to come up with cars that improve in the durability department.

[grizzly03]

I’m not really a fan of traxxas because of the higher prices, though I would easily reccommend it to any beginner (1:10 4x4) who is willing to pay more than an other brand would charge. There is a reason for the popularity of that product line. The 1:10 are the perfect beginners vehiclws, and stay great, even if you have other trucks, and from what I’ve heared, their great for projects.

ARRMA on the other hand makes great (1:8) vehicles, but need a lot of upgrades, so, to me, they seem great for poeple who are more experienced; but still want bashing and not racing vehicles.

What am I missing? Or maybe I'm not understanding correctly?

Your not a fan of Traxxas because of higher prices.
You are a fan of ARRMA but they need lots of upgrades.

So buying all the upgrades for the ARRMA vehicle is less than buying an equivalent Traxxas vehicle?

[The Bean]

No, I meant: both have up- and downsides. The upsides of traxxases (1:10) makes them great for beginners/project, but they cost a lot.

The upsides of ARRMA is that they cost a bit less, but the downside is that they need a lot of upgrades. Because they need a lot of upgrades, you need to know what you are doing, if you want to get the best out of your money.

I don’t want to start a brand vs brand right, so lets end this here

[TheFirestarter]

My only suspension issue was a hinge pin getting ripped out of the bulk head. Never broke a rod or rod end, nor an arm.

The arrma m2c chassis still bend. I've never had an issue with my battery doors either. I have broken like 5 motor fans from crashes.

The new revo's come with much stronger push rods and rear toe links. I never had an issue with any. I also run zip ties from body tower to suspension arms to prevent over travel.

look at the diff sizes. Arrma diffs are about the size of erevo 1.0 diffs. I've already broken a front ring gear on my 2.0 coming down full throttle on concrete after a backflip. here is a size comparison https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/e...a-diffs.10454/ , but I'm extremely hard on my drive train and it just takes it. I actually want to lower the center diff fluid so it'll turn better and not be so extreme on and one diff on hard landings.

[Acidic01]

https://youtu.be/1P2k0KdSOpk

Tekno mt410. Never driven one just saw this vid... Looks like it takes a beating but no idea what was put into it for upgrades

I break stuff most times I'm at a skate park. So when i go I just know it will cost me $ and time in repairs. But is fun... and I hope my cars come home unscathed...




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[TwoBelugas]

The tekno is surprisingly fast on just 4s as it is actually based on their 1/8 buggy chassis with truggy arms and suspension. You can build a really good basher for under 1000.

[olds97_lss]

https://youtu.be/1P2k0KdSOpk

Tekno mt410. Never driven one just saw this vid... Looks like it takes a beating but no idea what was put into it for upgrades

I break stuff most times I'm at a skate park. So when i go I just know it will cost me $ and time in repairs. But is fun... and I hope my cars come home unscathed...

I know the tekno has issues with the center bones getting bent, the front one I think, due to flex. Some of that can be mitigated with some M2C braces. It's built kind of like the stampede 4x4 with the motor near the back and a long shaft to the front. It runs 1/8th scale diffs/axles though, so it can hold up to the abuse. They also offer steel diff cups to bulletproof that even more. Kind of surprising since they tend to be for the racing crowd to use a hunk of steel like that... then again, the racers are likely fine with plastic. It's only the guys that throw big heavy tires on it and 6S power that likely have any issues.

Tough looking truck just the same though. Very nice components/materials throughout.