I finally started running lipos and it makes a massive difference, including heat. My motor isn't absurdly hot, only around 155 f, but that's because I frequently check it and let it cool. I don't think it's my gearing. I'm using and 11t pinion and a 54t spur, and the brushed diffs. (In other words, the stock brushed gearing.) I have a 9t pinion, too.
Which brings me to my question: Will fans work if I run mainly in grass (some of it dead) and dirt, or will they get clogged up? If that won't work, then what else can I use to cool the motor? Also, I thought that a fan would plug into the esc fan thingy, but a lot of people here seem to power them through the receiver?What makes the fan have power?
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The Fans will work in grass. most will run in any condition because most aren't waterproof. The esc fan thingy is for the esc fan, so the cord isn't too long. The receiver has multiple channels, and you an plug the fan into one of those channels to power the fan when the car is powered on
The fans won't get filled with grass? Good! I still don't get the receiver, though. I know it has several channels, but will the receiver know to power a channel when I plug a fan in, or do I have to tell it to somehow?
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Are you running a dust cover? If not, put chicken wire over the fans to stop rocks and larger debris from entering
As for plugging the fan into the receiver, here is a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcrgjU97rDs
I'm not using any cover, but the chicken wire is a great idea! Thanks for the video link! El Sob, How's the Integy dual fan holding up? I noticed you recommended it quite a bit a few years back.
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Fans do work fit sure, but they aren’t all good. I’ve tried a couple different brands and yeah racing keeps working the best.
Here is my current setup, my old setup with integy fans and velineon ESC fan did not keep it cool, but this new layout does it quite well. I run nothing but 3s.
As to the question about grass and other debris - it can and will get in the fans. For that reason, I have a dust cover, although I have also seen trays that fill in the wheel wells that do a similar job without encasing the electronics.
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Okay, it sounds like I need a dust cover. I already kinda wanted one, and I can get one for 12 bucks off Amazon. I get tons of debris in my truck, and never thought about a way to fix it. How much does the cover inhibit cooling? It must not be that bad if you ONLY run 3s!
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Careful with the cheap Amazon/Ebay dust covers. They commonly have absolute garbage adhesive on the velcro. Just going to a local hardware store and getting the 3M velcro is a huge improvement if you have trouble.
Last edited by zedorda; 11-06-2020 at 01:15 AM.
I run a debris cover sometimes. They do a great job of keeping debris out, but also do a great job of trapping heat inside. I only use mine these days if it's practically freezing temperatures outside.
In most cases I'd rather just use it without the debris cover, and then simply use my air compressor to blow the debris out afterward, than worry about motor or ESC temps.
I bought a roll of aluminum screen-door material from the local hardware store for about $5. I just cut out a section and zip-tie it over any fan that I want to protect against debris. This is the large fan that I modded onto my Mamba Monster X:
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Hobbystar 30mm alloy framed fans are pretty good. I have quite a few of those in service at the moment. On my 2 main 6S trucks, I covered the fans with a stainless steel mesh. Was a bit of a pain, but keeps rocks out and usually grass. Grass just sticks the the top of the mesh and I smear it off with my thumb if it gets blocked too bad. The alloy framed fans seem to hold up the best for big air. They don't flex/crack like plastic fans do. When plastic fans flex, the blades hit the sides of the fan or the mesh and then they shatter.
Fan: https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-tu...x30mm-red.html
Mesh: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077M93J18
Just a cheap cooler like this with a couple good high velocity fans will drop your motor temps quite a bit:
https://www.amazon.com/Mxfans-N10108.../dp/B01EHHNXO6
The fans on my ERBEv2 with a powerhobby cooler for 1/8th motors:
I buy the 2mm or 3mm thick versions of these:
https://www.rcjuice.com/hobbystar-al...acer-10pk.html
Cut the screen, drill holes the best I can for the screws, run the screws through the screen and the fan, put a spacer on the bolt next to the bottom of the fan, then crimp it a bit with pliers. They are aluminum, so the squish a bit and hold onto the screw. Then your not fighting trying to keep them on the other 3 screws while trying to attach the fan. Make sure to use threadlock on the screws as well.
Having the spacers moves the fan away from the cooler a bit so it can flow air better. Having a fan too close to what your cooling kind of suffocates the fan.
Last edited by olds97_lss; 11-06-2020 at 01:57 AM.
https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss
Don’t et the integy fan/heatsink. Mine spun at half speed after a month,a couple of weeks later it completely stopped working, and a couple of runs later, it tell apart
Forest, grass fields, very bumpy roads
If I'm going to be honest the best way to solve this (by far not the cheapest way) would be to buy a bigger motor and gear your car accordingly. With a bigger motor you can get for the same speeds but still get reduced temperatures. A fan will reduce motor temp but only to a certain degree, obviously driving circumstances affect this and everyone will have different results but in general you will only see a 15-20 degree difference.
The present is theirs; the future, is mine.
Go scorched rc and don’t look back
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Would love to try the inner fenders, but can't get past the price tag. I'm sure they work well though.
IMHO the car should have them from the factory and it would cost far less per unit at their scale, scorched rc is an independent business and deserves our support for creating and continuing to produce a product that every slash can actually benefit from. People throw obscene amount of money on bling on these cars on unnecessary “scale” or aluminum accessories but amain had a hard time selling these at 40 a piece.
Thanks! Okay, It sounds like I'm gonna have to pay like $60 for a leaf-proof setup. Nope!
I ran it really hard today, and I got to 179 °F, so it's borderline okay. It's only gonna get colder where I live, (so better cooling) and I can get a better system soon.
Do you guys think sensored is worth it? For what I'm looking at, it's going to be about an extra $50.
Last edited by EclipseMantis; 11-08-2020 at 06:25 PM. Reason: added something
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180 is too hot IMO.
Amain still has the hcg version fenders for 40 bucks.
There is an alternative to throwing down tons of money upgrading everything else but when it comes to 40 dollars to keep your electronics from clogging up, suddenly it’s “too much”. There is no reason to go sensored unless you race or drive at low speed a lot. Everyone ends up spending an e revo worth of money or more on a Sl4sh that looks like a dustbin after a pack of lipo but it’s too much to get fenders? I don’t know about that.
I see your point, but the only reason I want fenders to to protect the fan, and the fenders ($40), 2 tornado plus fans ($35), and the heatsink ($15), tax, and you're at about $100, actually! I don't really care about the dust.
At that price, it isn't outlandish to replace the system for something that has more power and less heat issues.
Last edited by EclipseMantis; 11-08-2020 at 08:39 PM. Reason: added stuff
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Here is one thought I had. You said you are running brushed diff with vxl system and 11/54? Maybe first try gearing *up* to, say, 13 or 14 tooth pinion? The brushed diff ring gear has a roughly 1:4 ratio while the vxl comes with more like 1:3, so it’s possible your motor is turning too fast for the voltage running 11/54
I'd totally be willing to try that. At worst, I get to have actual gearing for speed runs.
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Yeah, it’s a cheap item to tinker with. You might even try the speed run pinion that came with it (17?) and see if it reduces the temp a bit now that you are running the vxl-3s+3500kv system on the brushed diffs just to see if it helps. If my memory serves me right the motor running hot but not the esc means the motor is revving too fast from being undergeared
A sensored motor is a lot smoother than a non sensored one. Its not as notchy.
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Once your rolling, it's irrelevant. Sensored only really does anything up to 5mph or so. I think castle's system shuts off after it gets to a certain RPM.
I have the MMX/2200kv sensored on my savage. Figured I'd try it out just to see. Unless I'm literally going slower than a walking pace, it's not even noticeably different compared to my outcast and erbev2 with a max6/2050kv unsensored system in them. But if I'm literally creeping, that is the only time it's apparent that my savage has something different under the hood.
https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss
Okay, I wasn't going to update this, but since it already got bumped, I might as well. On Friday, I got an order that had, among other things, a 13t gear, an aluminum motor mount, and an aluminum motor plate. All of those really seem to help, and the heat isn't a big problem anymore.
TwoBelugas, the brushed version doesn't come with any optional gearing.
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