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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    (New to me) Emaxx Brushless Edition build thread

    Heya fellas. I found a good deal on eBay for an Emaxx Brushless Edition slider that I couldnít pass up.

    Iíve always wanted an Emaxx, but I missed out on the release of the Emaxx due to being deployed back in 2005-2008, and after coming home, Rc cars just wasnít on my mind because of some stuff that had happened down range.

    I had a serious case of survivors guilt and it was hard for me to work through it. I also had to go through some physical therapy for my legs, I took shrapnel in my left ankle and my right knee. And I had a lot going on inside this mostly empty head of mine. But enough of that, back to the thread topic.

    So my new to me Emaxx. Itís missing some parts, and screws and body. And thatís just fine. Itíll be a somewhat quick build as I am taking some donor parts off my V1 Erevo.

    But hereís the chassis and related parts







    I havenít had time to do much with it yet, but hopefully later today I can work on it and post an update.


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  2. #2
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    Good luck with it. I remember upgrading most of all of those parts because they broke too much. As long as you keep it no more than 4S then you should be ok. But those plastic diff cases will swell eventually and cause internal bearing and gear failures. Check out Fast Lane Machine, Unlimited Engineering, RC Monster or Hot Racing to see all what they still offer for it these days.

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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    If you run all stock, yes, Laajmalek is absolutely right. You don't want to go over 4s. If you want to run 6s, yes, you'll need to upgrade a few things. In the past, I've always guesstimated about 150 bucks to do the trick. Some guys get a little carried away with the upgrades, if all they want is better bashing reliability on 6s.

    If you want to run 6s, let us know, and we'll help you get there for a reasonable price. Which ever way you go, (IMO) your first step should be to get your electronics, and to start building up your electronics tray. For this I would strongly suggest the Castle MM2 ESC, Castle 2200kv motor, and the stock Traxxas Emaxx servos, receiver, and transmitter.

    There are other options, but the Castle MM2 ESC, Castle 2200kv motor, and the stock Traxxas Emaxx servos, Rx and Tx are reasonably priced and can be used with either 4 or 6s. To be more specific on the Traxxas Rx and Tx, I'd get their latest and greatest TQi blue tooth setup. This will not only let you use the Traxxas Link app down the road, but Traxxas also gives you the best bang for the buck.

    Some guys will argue that there are better Tx's, Rx's, and servos out there then Traxxas, and they're right. But, they're a lot more expensive too, and you just don't need them unless you're going for bragging rights rather than just bashing. Also, with your MM2 setup, don't worry about getting the sensored version. It's an additional expense you don't need unless you're wanting to build your Emaxx into a 4s rock climber. For a 4s or 6s Emaxx basher just get the standard MM2 system.





    P.S. When you get your electronics, we'll go over how to make a better ESC shock pad, how to change out your MM2 ON/OFF switch to a better one, and how to change over to battery straps. You can also use your stock Emaxx transmission for either 4s or 6s. It will not need any mods except for the slipper clutch. We can go over that later, because you can install your motor and transmission without a slipper clutch, gears and their dust cover.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 11-08-2020 at 05:38 AM.
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  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    6s is what Iím shooting for, but for the moment Iíll be doing 4s because of the esc/motor Iím taking out of my Erevo V1, esc is 4s only though motor is 6s. Itís the SPMXSEMC04 spectrum combo with 130amp esc and 1900kv motor. Runs very well in my Erevo V1. I also have a 35kg servo Iíll be using for a single servo setup. And for radio I have a TQI system so Iím good there.

    Iíll need to see if my V1 Erevo transmission will fit or if I need to part together an Emaxx transmission. I also need to find some shocks that are a step up from stock ultra shocks. Read a ton of posts about using rear buggy shocks but none of the buggyís shocks that were mentioned are available anymore.


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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    If you have your ERevo running the way you want, I'd leave it alone and use it (to keep you busy) while you build your Emaxx. Also, a ERevo transmission won't fit a Emaxx. I'd look online (eBay) and get a fully assembled one. If you want to use the Traxxas Link app, I would strongly suggest you go with a Castle setup. The Spektum setups needs their own Rx' and Tx's to work with their own telemetry, and Traxxas needs theirs. It just so happens (at one time) Castle used to make Traxxas's ESC's for them, so they'll work with the Traxxas telemetry sensors and the Traxxas Link app.

    If you do decide to stay with Spektrum go with the 150a and the 2050kv. Yes, you'll have to go with the Sektrum telemetry. Yes, it will be more expensive than the comparable Castle MM2/2200kv system, but you'll have a better chance of not running into needing a gear set (with a gear ratio) that you can't get to fit properly in your Emaxx.

    With the Castle MM2/2200kv system, I can tell you with a 100% certainty, that you want a 17/68 gearing setup to go with your 6s power. Also, if you go with the Spektrum 150/2050kv setup, make sure the motor's can size will fit. There is very little free space between my Emaxx transmission and 2200kv motor.

    As far as shocks, I strongly suggest the Traxxas big bore shocks with Integy (BLUE) springs. This setup in nicely priced, and if you go this way, I will be happy to show you how to setup the perfect (cost effective) Emaxx 6s suspension. I get complements on my suspension all the time. My suspension absorbs anything I give it without the rear of the truck sagging during hard acceleration.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 11-08-2020 at 05:20 PM.
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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    If you have your ERevo running the way you want, I'd leave it alone and use it (to keep you busy) while you build your Emaxx. Also, a ERevo transmission won't fit a Emaxx. I'd look online (eBay) and get a fully assembled one. If you want to use the Traxxas Link app, I would strongly suggest you go with a Castle setup. The Spektum setups needs their own Rx' and Tx's to work with their own telemetry, and Traxxas needs theirs. It just so happens (at one time) Castle used to make Traxxas's ESC's for them, so they'll work with the Traxxas telemetry sensors and the Traxxas Link app.

    If you do decide to stay with Spektrum go with the 150a and the 2050kv. Yes, you'll have to go with the Sektrum telemetry. Yes, it will be more expensive than the comparable Castle MM2/2200kv system, but you'll have a better chance of not running into needing a gear set (with a gear ratio) that you can't get to fit properly in your Emaxx.

    With the Castle MM2/2200kv system, I can tell you with a 100% certainty, that you want a 17/68 gearing setup to go with your 6s power. Also, if you go with the Spektrum 150/2050kv setup, make sure the motor's can size will fit. There is very little free space between my Emaxx transmission and 2200kv motor.

    As far as shocks, I strongly suggest the Traxxas big bore shocks with Integy (BLUE) springs. This setup in nicely priced, and if you go this way, I will be happy to show you how to setup the perfect (cost effective) Emaxx 6s suspension. I get complements on my suspension all the time. My suspension absorbs anything I give it without the rear of the truck sagging during hard acceleration.
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  7. #7
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    Honestly, if you're shooting for 6s power, then the shocks are the least of your worries. The stock transmission is fine...I know...I am still on it and have been on 6S. 6S power will require some serious mods. There is no need to upgrade it to just hold up to 4S power if your plan is 6S power.

    The biggest failures going from 4S to 6S was the driveline parts after the transmission. The driveshafts need to be upgraded...all of them. Upgrade to the steel Traxxas CVD axles. Both driveshafts and all four CVD shafts.
    The bulkheads will flex. Those need to be upgraded to aluminum. The differential cases will also need to be upgraded to aluminum. They will fail. The Emaxx was just never designed for 6S power. 4S at best.

    Mine is 6S proofed...seriously took a lot of money to do. I am using Fast Lane Machine Hybrid bulks and diff case front and rear. Sourcing the Ofna diffetentials for the internals is going to be the problem...but I haven't searched, so I am not sure if parts are still out there or not.


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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by laajmalek View Post
    Honestly, if you're shooting for 6s power, then the shocks are the least of your worries. The stock transmission is fine...I know...I am still on it and have been on 6S. 6S power will require some serious mods. There is no need to upgrade it to just hold up to 4S power if your plan is 6S power.

    The biggest failures going from 4S to 6S was the driveline parts after the transmission. The driveshafts need to be upgraded...all of them. Upgrade to the steel Traxxas CVD axles. Both driveshafts and all four CVD shafts.
    The bulkheads will flex. Those need to be upgraded to aluminum. The differential cases will also need to be upgraded to aluminum. They will fail. The Emaxx was just never designed for 6S power. 4S at best.

    Mine is 6S proofed...seriously took a lot of money to do. I am using Fast Lane Machine Hybrid bulks and diff case front and rear. Sourcing the Ofna differentials for the internals is going to be the problem...but I haven't searched, so I am not sure if parts are still out there or not.
    Rocket, I was trying to not get a head of you. That's why I was starting you out with you getting your equipment try done first. Getting your equipment tray done is the easiest to do first, but can be the most expensive due to the servo's, ESC, and motor. I PM'd you on how I'd handle that, so you should be good there.

    As far as shocks, Laaj is right. They are the easiest do, but they are tricky if you want to get them just right. Like I mentioned above, if you want your Xmaxx to track nicely with 6s power (without rear-end sag), then I'll show you how to do it when your to that point in your build.

    Laaj, is also right about the Emaxx stock transmission with 6s. It works great, and I've never had a problem with mine, but you will want to upgrade your slipper clutch. I will show you that too, once you get your electronics tray together with your electronics, and upgraded switch (which you will want to do if you decide to take my MM2 advice). (You can see my upgraded switch in picture #2 in post 3.)

    Laaj, is also right in his recommendation of using Traxxas CV axles and drive shafts. Down the road, I will show you how to set them up (and shim properly) for for ease of maintenance and minimum wear. We can also (when you're ready) discuss their pro's and con's which will ease your mind why Laaj and I are in full agreement for using them Emaxx with 6s power.

    I do have to disagree with Laaj, though, on aluminum bulk heads, and skid plates. We can discuss this in greater detail later, but for now let me tell you this. The Emaxx has five mechanical fuses. They are: the motor's spur gear, the plastic bulk heads, the plastic shock towers, the plastic bumper mounts, and some would argue the plastic skid plates.

    The Holy Grail to an Emaxx is its' electronic equipment tray, and everything on it. It is the hardest to R/R and the most costly if anything on it breaks. Your five mechanical fuses are there to keep your Emaxx's Holly Grail as safe as possible. When the time comes don't make the mistake of using aluminum for these mechanical fuses. Keep in the back of your mind that flexing isn't necessarily a bad thing. Often it is much better than bending or breaking due to 6s power.

    I also (sorry) have to disagree with Laaj, with getting to crazy with the Emaxx differentials. I PM'ed you what you needed to do here, and to refresh your memory all you need is to repack your diff's bearings, setup your CV drive shafts a certain way, shim properly, and change out your diff's pinion gear bearings to Tamiya bushings. A good number of guys have done this (I sent you my post on this) and have had great luck with it. All for a cheap price.

    Like I said, I don't want to go to deep here, but later (when you get your equipment tray finished) I will be glad to get deeper in these other subjects along with a nice amount of my "How To" pictures and research.

    P.S I didn't proof read this, cuz I have to go. So, my grammar could be a little ruff.
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I found those bushings using Tamiya P/N 9415549 in eBay. Pretty expensive, though, from the price I paid a couple of years ago. Use that part number, and key words like 6x12 (that's the size) to see if you can get them cheaper. They're like 7 bucks, and I paid like a buck.

    P.S. RocketDude your PM mailbox is full. No private messages for you, young man, until you empty it.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I found those bushings using Tamiya P/N 9415549 in eBay. Pretty expensive, though, from the price I paid a couple of years ago. Use that part number, and key words like 6x12 (that's the size) to see if you can get them cheaper. They're like 7 bucks, and I paid like a buck.

    P.S. RocketDude your PM mailbox is full. No private messages for you, young man, until you empty it.
    You can use bushings in your diff cases, but I will use my high quality Avid bearings in my solid aluminum diff/ bulkhead units. Mine is much stronger than whatever you're using. A bushing isn't stronger than a bearing. I'm going to disagree with you right here.

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  11. #11
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by laajmalek View Post
    ...A bushing isn't stronger than a bearing. I'm going to disagree with you right here.
    While I'm not a big fan of bushings, they do have much more of a load capacity than bearings.
    So they are stronger than a bearing, but not as efficient.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    While I'm not a big fan of bushings, they do have much more of a load capacity than bearings.
    So they are stronger than a bearing, but not as efficient.
    I can see your point as the bushing is a piece of thin metal butted up next to a harder metal for its support. However, standing alone outside of where they are supposed to be inserted at, then bushing is thin and will collapse without its surrounding support. A bearing will not. I can see what you mean, but bearings came as the bushing replacement due to bushings lacking the ability to retain lubrication and their ability to resist friction. Lol..I'll stick with my roller bearings.

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  13. #13
    RC Qualifier Rocketzx1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by laajmalek View Post
    I can see your point as the bushing is a piece of thin metal butted up next to a harder metal for its support. However, standing alone outside of where they are supposed to be inserted at, then bushing is thin and will collapse without its surrounding support. A bearing will not. I can see what you mean, but bearings came as the bushing replacement due to bushings lacking the ability to retain lubrication and their ability to resist friction. Lol..I'll stick with my roller bearings.

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    Bushings are self lubricating, so idk where you get the idea they are straight up dry.

    Not trying to be a jerk or anything, but if you want to go back and forth on bearings vs bushings, make a thread and go at it.

    This is purely my slow Emaxx build thread and comments related to my build process with tips and good info about tweaking my build for bashing, and Iíd like to keep it on topic please.

    Thanks gents!


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  14. #14
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocketzx1 View Post
    This is purely my slow Emaxx build thread and comments related to my build process with tips and good info about tweaking my build for bashing, and Iíd like to keep it on topic please.
    How did you make out with the Erevo V1 transmission?

    I have a couple of Tmaxx's in parts and a Erevo/Summit V1 tranny. If I could use that, it would be worth trying to build an Emaxx.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    While I'm not a big fan of bushings, they do have much more of a load capacity than bearings.
    So they are stronger than a bearing, but not as efficient.
    Grizzles is right on the money.
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