Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 41 to 45 of 45
  1. #41
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    875
    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    What did you have to shim exactly?
    Sorry, I'm a little confused. Lol
    In this picture where the red arrow is pointing to the flat spot on the shaft; I had to cut a small piece of shim the exact width of the flat spot and the length of the pinion hole to wedge between the shaft and the pinion to prevent rotational slop/rocking between the pinion and shaft.



    Keep in mind that I only had to do this on my old motor shaft because it was worn down and deformed from a divot I put on the shaft in an attempt to stop the set screw from backing out. When that didn't work, I drilled the hole as shown in my opening post.

    When I got the new ARRMA pinions, I used a pin and Quik Steel to seal the hole on the motor shaft and tried the set screw approach again with the D5 safe pinions and it finally worked after I shimmed it.

    The hole in the shaft on my old motor was a temporary fix until I got the ARRMA pinions because I didn't have the new motor in my possession at the time of the earlier posts.

    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Let me know how the heating up to expand trick works.
    Will do!

    I'm not going to throw an insane amount of heat to it. I think it will go right on at around 200~250 with no problems. I mean it almost wants to slide on past the 1mm mark, but it gets wedge locked and I don't want to force it past that wedge lock without heat.

    Plus I want it to be tight like that, because then I won't have to cut another shim.

    Hey Grizzly, you remember that Quik Steel that I'm talking about right? Starts out as a clay-like substance and hardens to steel strength pretty fast. I got to thinking if I rolled a "BB" sized ball of it and put it down in the set screw hole and tightened the set screw down on it, that set screw would probably never move again and at the same time squeeze that Quik Steel into the pockets that aren't air tight around the shaft sealing the pinion to the shaft permanently.

    Of course the drawback being you would have to Dremmel cut the pinion off if that Quik Steel set up right. That Quik Steel has never failed me in real automotive repairs; although that was just to seal holes so I don't know how it would set up in this motor shaft/pinion application.

    I'm wondering since I have a spare motor now and two ARRMA pinions, I might just try that for laughs on the old motor first to see if it sets up strong.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 11-30-2020 at 11:49 PM. Reason: Fixed and added picture.
    Sent from my autonomous device.

  2. #42
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Adirondacks
    Posts
    2,453
    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Hey Grizzly, you remember that Quik Steel that I'm talking about right? Starts out as a clay-like substance and hardens to steel strength pretty fast. I got to thinking if I rolled a "BB" sized ball of it and put it down in the set screw hole and tightened the set screw down on it, that set screw would probably never move again and at the same time squeeze that Quik Steel into the pockets that aren't air tight around the shaft sealing the pinion to the shaft permanently.

    Of course the drawback being you would have to Dremmel cut the pinion off if that Quik Steel set up right. That Quik Steel has never failed me in real automotive repairs; although that was just to seal holes so I don't know how it would set up in this motor shaft/pinion application.

    I'm wondering since I have a spare motor now and two ARRMA pinions, I might just try that for laughs on the old motor first to see if it sets up strong.
    I'm not sure how well that would work. If you can form it, it's probably too thick to do what your thinking. I don't see a putty like substance getting pushed into such a tight void. I think this idea might have worked better when you still had a hole in the shaft. It would have given more room for the putty to move into and form into and around it.

    Maybe something that is thinner and runny would work better. Maybe something like some sort of epoxy?

  3. #43
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    875
    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I'm not sure how well that would work. If you can form it, it's probably too thick to do what your thinking. I don't see a putty like substance getting pushed into such a tight void. I think this idea might have worked better when you still had a hole in the shaft. It would have given more room for the putty to move into and form into and around it.

    Maybe something that is thinner and runny would work better. Maybe something like some sort of epoxy?
    O.K. - I'm positive you would be right on this and it was just a spur of the moment thought and decided to see what you had to say anyway. You never know if someone tried it until you throw it out there and see what other people think or have tried.

    As far as heating that pinion...............Worked perfect!

    I heated it with a propane torch evenly for about 30 seconds on medium flame and it went on with a slight tap. After it cooled, I almost had the impression it would not even need a set screw but then I remembered how hot that motor shaft can get, so the set screw is going in.

    This all comes down to how ridiculously tight that pinion is to begin with. In your case with the Castle 1717 motor shaft and ARRMA pinion, I'm not there to feel how the pinion is getting stuck in your situation, so I really don't know if you are looking at a heating or grinding situation.

    I do know that with my 1200XL motor shaft and ARRMA pinion, that just from feeling how it was wedge locking, I could tell heat would solve it this time without grinding. The only grinding by hand that I did today was to extend the flat spot on the motor shaft so the pinion could go on all the way, because as you know, the ARRMA pinions don't have the bore cutout and Traxxas does not have a very long flat spot on their motor shafts.

    This is especially troublesome with the X-Maxx because we reverse install the pinion and with your Castle 1717 motor I forgot that you may be doing a normal pinion install versus having to turn it around like we have to do with the X-Maxx.

    Plus, I have no idea how long your flat spot is compared to mine because I never had a Castle 1717 can before. I've only owned the 1515 1Y 2200Kv cans from Castle.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 12-01-2020 at 06:28 PM. Reason: Added information.
    Sent from my autonomous device.

  4. #44
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    105
    Flux,

    Do you find Arma pinions better than the Traxxas hardened steel ones? Thanks for the info you have provided here. This is a good post as I noticed my pinion keeps coming loose on one of my trucks running 8s on the 1650Kv motor.

  5. #45
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    United States of America
    Posts
    875
    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    Flux,

    Do you find Arma pinions better than the Traxxas hardened steel ones? Thanks for the info you have provided here. This is a good post as I noticed my pinion keeps coming loose on one of my trucks running 8s on the 1650Kv motor.
    You're Welcome!

    Yes, I find the "D" bore pinions better, but use the feeler gauge wedge procedure now even on the "D" bored pinions.

    I replied in your thread with a more advanced explanation of this procedure with better pictures that beats the alternative of having to drill motor shafts and pinions.

    After all, if you mess drilling up a motor shaft, it's game over.

    I like the wedge lock procedure better myself because feeler gauges are cheaper!
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 01-14-2021 at 06:53 PM. Reason: Updated.
    Sent from my autonomous device.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •