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Thread: 3d printing

  1. #1
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    3d printing

    So, the wife and I have become really interested in 3d printing and will probably be buying an Anet A8 DIY printer. I started playing around with Tinkercad online and designed my first Slash piece. Ok, well, it's not specific to the Slash, but more specific to the Proline bodies my wife and I have. If you saw my desert racer build thread, you may have saw how I attempted to build a rear roll bar out of coat hanger parts. It was something I had done successfully in the past, but screwed this one up and I just simply didnt feel like trying to buy new hangers and starting over again. So, when I started looking through Shapeways and Thingiverse, it got me thinking about that failed roll bar.

    This is what I came up with...



    Im going to test it out with PLA, but I may need to go with ABS if it seems too fragile. I even thought ahead and added some 2.75mm holes in the bottom to accept 3mm screws to attach to the body. The image shows some seams, but it is being made as a single part (hopefully). Lastly, once I have a good one made that fits, I may add a spare tire holder in the center of the X bar.

  2. #2
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by devestator View Post
    So, the wife and I have become really interested in 3d printing and will probably be buying an Anet A8 DIY printer. I started playing around with Tinkercad online and designed my first Slash piece. Ok, well, it's not specific to the Slash, but more specific to the Proline bodies my wife and I have. If you saw my desert racer build thread, you may have saw how I attempted to build a rear roll bar out of coat hanger parts. It was something I had done successfully in the past, but screwed this one up and I just simply didnt feel like trying to buy new hangers and starting over again. So, when I started looking through Shapeways and Thingiverse, it got me thinking about that failed roll bar.

    This is what I came up with...



    Im going to test it out with PLA, but I may need to go with ABS if it seems too fragile. I even thought ahead and added some 2.75mm holes in the bottom to accept 3mm screws to attach to the body. The image shows some seams, but it is being made as a single part (hopefully). Lastly, once I have a good one made that fits, I may add a spare tire holder in the center of the X bar.
    Very cool. I wonder how well a modular rollcage for the entire car would protect the body? Maybe get a bunch of mats together and do that... It would probably help (You can see how poorly my body is on the recent rebuild post I have) I was just looking at J concepts and Proline bodies, but if you could do that (no promises ofc) I may or may not DM you with an offer (Depending on how sturdy it is) Let me know

  3. #3
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    That's actually very cool! I'm also interested in 3d printing. I'm still deciding between a Hobbywing XR8 or the Creality Ender 3. It seems like I may go the 3d printing route and get the Ender 3.

    I think Thingiverse also has a bunch of other stuff like ESC mounts, car stands, and other stuff like that.
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  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Thats super interesting. I cant wait to see what you are able to make.

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    I will certainly let you all know how things go with this. The wife (money keeper) says we are probably a month away from being able to buy the printer roughly. And after some reviews, I've already changed my mind on the Anet A8 and am now looking at the Creality Ender 3. There is just too much fire risk with the A8. And yes, both Thingiverse and Shapeways have a LOT of RC stuff you can print. I've found a-arms, steering knuckles, front bulkheads, extended body posts... pretty much you name it.

    @speediegonzales Would you want a full exo-skeleton? Or an internal cage that fits under the body? I'd have to experiment with different ways to hold the parts together and figure out a good assembly method. This "cage" is all one piece and at the very limits of most printers in terms of width 225mm wide where most printers go to 220, though I think I might be able to get away with it. Also, an exo-cage would make it much more difficult to take off the body, unless we are attaching the cage direct to the body in certain places (which I really dont think would hold up well at all).

  6. #6
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Like i said, no promises, don't build this for me, build it for yourself (if you want to ofc), though I've been using Blender 3D again recently, I like modeling so I would be happy to help you (For free, I get nothing, you get some ideas and models) if you want it.

    I was thinking endo (internal) Because the main cause of damage is impact, not skidding (Though skidding doesn't help it look nice either). There are quite a few good mounting points I've noticed in the disassembly of my slash, including a few pre-drilled into the chassis. (4x4, not 2wd) You could also mount on the back (unused) side of the shock towers.

    One issue; I don't know much about the materials 3D printers use... Would this only be cosmetic, or would it actually be functional? I know some materials don't react well to impacts or drilling...

    I think it should be modular (so you don't have to reprint the entire thing) if one piece breaks, and 225mm (~9-10 inches) Is plenty, methinks.

    (if you want me to work on the modeling with you)
    Like I said, I use Blender 3D, so I don't know whether your printer can print that filetype (.blend/.blend1), or if you'll have to convert it. What program are you using?
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  7. #7
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Also, I will be attempting my own coat hanger rollcage (for looks, that will NOT stand up to my abuse! XD)
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    Im going send all the technical jargon via DM. For everyone else, just know Im probably at least a month away from buying the printer, then I will need to run some test stuff before the first couple of actual cages come out and I expect them to need some revisions as this is LITERALLY the very first thing I've ever modeled in 3d... so I know something has to be wrong with it.

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    So, the Ender 3 is finally on order and should be here by Monday. I then have to get it all setup and make a few test prints of simple things first. I figure I should be able to make my first actual roll bar sometime around the first of the year at the latest (barring any setbacks in the setup). Will report back when I get my first prototype finished.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by devestator View Post
    So, the Ender 3 is finally on order and should be here by Monday. I then have to get it all setup and make a few test prints of simple things first. I figure I should be able to make my first actual roll bar sometime around the first of the year at the latest (barring any setbacks in the setup). Will report back when I get my first prototype finished.
    That's awesome, the Ender 3 is a great printer. I have a CR10, so far the only problems I have had with it are issues I have created. Designing and printing a lot of my own parts has really changes the dynamic of the hobby for me. Plus, when I need a part I don't have to rummage through three big bins of various RC parts to find one that will work, or try to cobble something together with aluminum. I just design it up and print it.

    Recommend looking at Fusion 360 for modeling software, it is free for us hobbyist.

    One channel on YouTube I recommend checking out is 'CNC Kitchen' on YouTube, he does a lot of testing with filaments. I learned a lot about part orientation and layering to produce stronger parts.

    Instead of looking at ABS, recommend looking at PETG, it has very similar print qualities as ABS, but it a lot easier to work with and doesn't stink up the house when you are printing it. Honestly, the new flavors of PLA are very stout, and I have not had any issues with durability of the parts. The key is, of course, to buy quality filament, like Hatchbox, cheap filament causes nothing but headaches.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    That's awesome, the Ender 3 is a great printer. I have a CR10, so far the only problems I have had with it are issues I have created. Designing and printing a lot of my own parts has really changes the dynamic of the hobby for me. Plus, when I need a part I don't have to rummage through three big bins of various RC parts to find one that will work, or try to cobble something together with aluminum. I just design it up and print it.

    Recommend looking at Fusion 360 for modeling software, it is free for us hobbyist.

    One channel on YouTube I recommend checking out is 'CNC Kitchen' on YouTube, he does a lot of testing with filaments. I learned a lot about part orientation and layering to produce stronger parts.

    Instead of looking at ABS, recommend looking at PETG, it has very similar print qualities as ABS, but it a lot easier to work with and doesn't stink up the house when you are printing it. Honestly, the new flavors of PLA are very stout, and I have not had any issues with durability of the parts. The key is, of course, to buy quality filament, like Hatchbox, cheap filament causes nothing but headaches.
    Ive seen a few videos from CNC Kitchen and his tests. Also, my first spool is coming from Hatchbox in black. We also have some decorative metallic rainbow colored stuff coming, but that is on backorder and will be used more for decorative items around the house vs functional things that need to last.

    I will look into Fusion 360. I had only seen the pay versions, so I skipped it and didnt really research into it. I started with Tinkercad online, and did try Blender a little bit from Speedies recommendation, but just couldnt quite get the hang of it nearly as fast as I did with FreeCad and TinkerCad. I think it's because I have a background from a few years ago working with Mitek Sapphire Structure, which is a software suite used for designing roof and floor trusses, along with using Autocad and Caddkey back in high school 20 years ago. I dont necessarily remember details from back then, but certain things feel familiar and muscle memory comes back into play. But thank you for the recommendations. I appreciate it.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by devestator View Post
    So, the Ender 3 is finally on order and should be here by Monday. I then have to get it all setup and make a few test prints of simple things first. I figure I should be able to make my first actual roll bar sometime around the first of the year at the latest (barring any setbacks in the setup). Will report back when I get my first prototype finished.
    Congrats on the printer! I have an Anycubic i3 Mega, and it's game changing to be able to produce pretty much any part you need. As others have stated, I would recommend Fusion 360, there is a free plan you should look into. As for filaments, PLA is pretty good, I print a lot of PLA, and I have never had durability issues, the only issue is that PLA is not UV resistant, and it will be negatively affected over time. Let us know how your parts turn out!

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    RC Racer EclipseMantis's Avatar
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    What parts would a printer be able to make that would be useful? Any broken part would probably be stressed, and I doubt that a printed piece would hold up. Scale stuff would be cool, though. Not trying to be negative, as I don't have a printer but find them really interesting.
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  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by EclipseMantis View Post
    What parts would a printer be able to make that would be useful? Any broken part would probably be stressed, and I doubt that a printed piece would hold up. Scale stuff would be cool, though. Not trying to be negative, as I don't have a printer but find them really interesting.
    You would not believe how strong 3D printed parts are when they are done right. Just like you, I thought that they were not very strong, but there are some 3D printed things that I have tried to just bend, and it had like no flex at all. I personally don't run 3D printed things on my truck, but they might actually work quite well.
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  15. #15
    RC Racer EclipseMantis's Avatar
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    Really? OK, that sounds cool! Might be a good option to keep running until you could get the actual part.
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  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EclipseMantis View Post
    What parts would a printer be able to make that would be useful? Any broken part would probably be stressed, and I doubt that a printed piece would hold up. Scale stuff would be cool, though. Not trying to be negative, as I don't have a printer but find them really interesting.
    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    You would not believe how strong 3D printed parts are when they are done right. Just like you, I thought that they were not very strong, but there are some 3D printed things that I have tried to just bend, and it had like no flex at all. I personally don't run 3D printed things on my truck, but they might actually work quite well.
    Yup, my functional printed parts work very well. You just need to do some research on how to design, slice, and print your parts.

    Here is some of the stuff I have done...

    Here is a monster winch I designed and printed for my TRX6. This winch can lift over 20lbs. It was a little tricky getting the spool so that it didn't strip out, it took four or five different design attempts before I had a good design:
    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Here are wheel wells and a bumper mount I made for my Enduro. This truck took a 20ft tumble down a cliff, the ABS body didn't fair so well, but all of the printed parts were just fine:

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Spare tire mount for my TRX6:

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Along with all of the actual RC stuff I have designed and printed, I have made a bunch of tool holders and such for my workbenches.
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  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    So, this is excellent timing, and a good illustration of the research you should do to get the most out of your printer...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3bwJx8ZkMA

    (If I could, I would just edit my previous post and add the video link to it).

    One BIG thing to consider with what you are wanting to do/design. Most of my RC parts are supporting or scale, in that they are very functional, like the monster winch, but they are not subject to abuse, like a roll cage. I think this is where you'll find that many printed parts will not fair well, and you'll have to go a bit more exotic with the filament to get parts that can take the abuse that comes from direct high-speed shocks like a roll cage will take.
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  18. #18
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    Thanks for the links and advice. I've got the printer up and running, made a few smaller items first to really get the hang for settings in Cura. I've got most of it dialed in now. Bed adhesion was my #1 ailment for the first few prints. 70% isopropyl alcohol has become my best friend! LOL! I am currently printing out my first roll bar, so we will see how it goes. Based on my driving habits, Im sure it will be just fine. I think in the entire year that I've owned my truck, it's been on it's lid once and that was a side roll where the tires bit into the dirt during a powerslide at high speed. This roll bar is mostly for looks. The entire bar will be virtually flush with the roof of the body. Doing this means when the truck does roll over, the contact points are still the edge of the cab and the edge of the bed. Yes, it's "not doing its job", but it's not going to be totally destroyed if I do roll it at speed.

    That all being said, I believe Speedies idea of an exo cage wouldnt work out and would agree that the PLA wouldnt hold up to that type of direct abuse. Im not even sure ABS would hold up honestly. I mean it might if you had enough infill in random patterns, but the bars would have to be pretty thick to start with. I think I designed mine with 6mm thick bars (I dont fully remember now).

    But at the moment, I am 5 hours into the print and have another 4.5 hours to go. Will post up pics once it's done and then mounted.

  19. #19
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    Got it all printed, and there were mistakes made, lol. I used the wrong type of supports and it was basically impossible to remove them cleanly. This mistake was two fold because I flipped the cage upside down in the slicing software, so all that support material was on the top, rather than the bottom, but it did save 7 hours of print time. Either way, I had to do a LOT of filing and sanding to get things relatively smooth. Then I hit it with a coat of SEM Color Coat in satin black to help cover up the marks left behind by the sandpaper.

    I then went to fit it onto my body, and low and behold... IT'S TOO WIDE. I think the scale may have been off a little bit going from tinkercad (my first design) to Cura. I've had this with other files too, but it's usually VERY noticeable, like instead of 100mm wide, its 2mm, or instead of 15mm, it's 1050mm. This was about 15mm too wide in both the bed area and the front. However all was not lost!!

    It fits my wifes Raptor true scale body perfectly! Well, once I cut down the main uprights to lower it a bit. It was 1/2" too tall over her cab and looked goofy. Trimmed it down, and attached it with screws through the bottom and poof! It's solid as a rock!






  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by devestator View Post
    Got it all printed, and there were mistakes made, lol. I used the wrong type of supports and it was basically impossible to remove them cleanly. This mistake was two fold because I flipped the cage upside down in the slicing software, so all that support material was on the top, rather than the bottom, but it did save 7 hours of print time. Either way, I had to do a LOT of filing and sanding to get things relatively smooth. Then I hit it with a coat of SEM Color Coat in satin black to help cover up the marks left behind by the sandpaper.

    I then went to fit it onto my body, and low and behold... IT'S TOO WIDE. I think the scale may have been off a little bit going from tinkercad (my first design) to Cura. I've had this with other files too, but it's usually VERY noticeable, like instead of 100mm wide, its 2mm, or instead of 15mm, it's 1050mm. This was about 15mm too wide in both the bed area and the front. However all was not lost!!

    It fits my wifes Raptor true scale body perfectly! Well, once I cut down the main uprights to lower it a bit. It was 1/2" too tall over her cab and looked goofy. Trimmed it down, and attached it with screws through the bottom and poof! It's solid as a rock!
    Awesome work!!!

    I am a little confused. When I draw something up in Fusion, there is no conversion, if I make a part 10mm, from STL conversion, to slicing, to printing, it is 10mm.

    Recommend adding some material around the joints to make them a stronger.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Awesome work!!!

    I am a little confused. When I draw something up in Fusion, there is no conversion, if I make a part 10mm, from STL conversion, to slicing, to printing, it is 10mm.

    Recommend adding some material around the joints to make them a stronger.
    I didnt make this in Fusion. This was the very first thing I made in Tinkercad, before I switched to FreeCad, which was before I switched to Fusion, lol. The other files Im talking about are things downloaded from Thingiverse. Had a dragon I got for my wife, opened it in Cura and literally the body was 2mm long instead of 50mm. Also tried a Darth Vader mini statue and it was well over 300mm tall! I've also had strange issues with Cura not seeing the final changes made to a file I created in Freecad, like rounded corners. It's there in FreeCad, but not Cura. Thats a mute point though because I've swapped over to Fusion. Basically, I'm going to re-design anything I made in programs other than Fusion because they simply cant be trusted.

    Again, appreciate the advice. So far, this roll bar feels plenty strong. I can pick the whole truck up by it and it hardly flexes at all. If I had to make her roll bar again, I would get a little more advanced and try to follow the body line of the cab how it angles inwards as it goes up. The corners of the cage sticking out like that are a catch point in a forward slide and it concerns me a little bit. But then again, it wasnt initially made for her truck, lol.

  22. #22
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    So... I got the 2nd roll bar done. I had things go south in a hurry at 7 hour mark on one attempt, which wasnt fun to have all that filament go to waste. However the main part of the bar (the X portion and cross bar) were fully done, so I was able to use that for testing. I tried to just pummel it with my fist first and it flexed but never actually broke. I then started trying to twist it, which would be extremely difficult to do once it's screwed to the body without tearing the lexan apart. It survived quite a bit of force applied. So I tried to snap each individual bar like a twig and it took some considerable, concentrated force to snap them. Like place both thumbs in the same spot and try to snap it. Id say they were about as strong as a wooden spoon.

    I still need to process the part a bit with some sanding to smooth it out (stupid support material!). I was so excited that I just had to snap some pics as soon as I could though...





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