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  1. #1
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    Question Velineon Upgrade for Stock Slash 4WD

    Hello again,
    I am here to ask what I need for the Velineon and VXL-3S upgrade apart from the obvious (Motor and ESC). I believe I would need a new driveshaft (center) as I currently have this one: https://www.the-border.com/traxxas-d...n-trx7455.html

    Do I need anything apart from the motor and esc? Beginner here :P

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    You don't "need" the aluminum center driveshaft...but, you DO "want" it. You might also consider the Traxxas HD A-arms...again, not a necessity to but they are firmer than the units currently on your vehicle, and are even more firm than the RPM A-arms. With more power reaching the wheels, you might also consider increasing the viscosity of the diff fluid in the front & rear diffs.


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  3. #3
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    You will probably need metal drive shafts and hexes, if you want to drive 3s+ agressively. I broke all 4 stock driveshafts within a week of getting my 3s Lipo (I was driving quite agressively though). Some metal driveshafts come with metal hexes, f.e. the MIP axles.
    If you drive carefully, maybe you could just use the stock ones. I'd just upgrade when they break.


    Also, you could get way better electronics for a slightly higher price:

    $190 HW MAX10 SCT ($85) + Castle 1415 2400kv ($105)
    $240 Castle Mamba X + 2400kv
    $195 HW MAX8 + 2200kv

    These combos run way cooler than the VXL-3s, and also are 4s capable. Remember: the VXL-3s costs $170, and the first combo I mentioned costed only $20 more.


    If you don't want to spend that much money (yet), there is another great option:
    $140 HW MAX10 SCT + 3200kv combo.
    This costs a bit less than the VXL-3s combo, and is equal/slightly better than it.

    Also, it comes with the powerful MAX10 SCT ESC, wich means upgrading the motor won't necessarily mean you also need to upgrade the ESC, wich means you could save some money in the future, if you want to upgrade again.


    My choice would be: Get the MAX10 SCT + 3200kv combo. It runs great on the NiMHs you maybe already have, and also can handle LiPos up to 3s, wich is all you should need. This is the great budget friendly option, and should be enough for somebody coming form a brushed motor.

    And if you ever think: "I want lower temps and more power", upgrade the motor to the Castle 2400kv.


    Alternatively, you could get the MAX8 + 2200kv. It is overkill, i.m.o., but some I know some people run the Castle version of it, and love it. You would need to get 3s, maybe 4s LiPos for it to not feel sluggish.
    Because of the lower kv, it runs at a lower RPM per volt.
    Last edited by The Bean; 11-14-2020 at 06:16 AM.

  4. #4
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    Also, I don't know how the stock plastic diffs would hold up:
    My friend upgraded his brushed slash 4x4 with the MAX10 SCT + 3200kv combo, and his diffs aren't what you could call "in good shape".

    Just upgrade anything in the drivetrain when it breaks.
    Some other tips:
    - From what I've heared, chassis braces don't do anything good to a Slash.
    - If your motor gets very hot, get cooling fan/heatsink combo. HWs cooler is great, from what
    I've heared.
    - Don't upgrade the suspension arms to aluminium.
    - If something made from plastic breaks (rod ends, arms, hubs etc.), you can upgrade it to RPM: their parts are more durable.
    Last edited by The Bean; 11-14-2020 at 06:20 AM.

  5. #5
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Bean View Post
    Also, I don't know how the stock plastic diffs would hold up:
    My friend upgraded his brushed slash 4x4 with the MAX10 SCT + 3200kv combo, and his diffs aren't what you could call "in good shape"..
    The only difference between the brushed and brushless version of the 4x4 diffs are the ring and pinion.

    One may consider upgrading to the XO-1 spec diff so that the spider gears don't get spun inside the cup thus tearing it apart. Something very easy to do - one of the first things I did when taking my PE out of the box.
    The Super Derecho

  6. #6
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    I thought the brushed ones were plastic, and the VXL ones were metal. was I wrong?

  7. #7
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    If you doubt then certainly feel free to check out the exploded views of the brushed and brushless and compare/contrast.
    The Super Derecho

  8. #8
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    Ah, I see now

  9. #9
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    If you are going for the VXL 3s, look into Traxxas' Power Up Program (you have to trade the brushed system in). I think the VXL is around $130 through the Power Up Program.

    I have never had a VXL 3s system, but I have heard that some people had problems with it overheating on 3s. Like others said above, the Max 10 is a good choice. If you want a sensored system (smoother low speed startups/stops), the Hobbywing XR8 is a good system to look into (I would get the 3600kv).
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  10. #10
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    Mine worked fine on 2s, and with the cooling fan, ran quite cool on 3s. It was great, when it worked.
    But when I took it to the beach, something happened. The next day, I started it up, and I smelled a burning smell. My ESC was toast. It cost me €90 to upgrade/replace it with my current MAX10 SCT.

    I'd spend the extra bit for the MAX10 SCT, because it can be good for future upgradibility. But of course, its not my money.

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