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  1. #1
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    Considering an X-maxx

    Hi folks, I'm new here and new to Traxxas. Currently looking for a new rig and initially had shied away from the X-maxx as monster trucks aren't really my thing, but after seeing some videos of the abuse this thing takes and Kevin Talbot's comparison of the spare parts coat differences between an X-maxx and a Kraton 8s, I'm now thinking I should look closer at the X-maxx.

    One question I have though, is when was the X-maxx last updated? The Kraton 8s is pretty new and already on a (sort of) V2 version with a few minor changes.

    Is there likely to be a new X-maxx out soon?

    Also, are there any "essential" mods straight out of the box, and are all the bearings rubber sealed, or will it likely need a full bearing kits straight away?

    Thanks
    RJUK

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  2. #2
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    Bearings are sealed. Pick up a few extra inner wheel bearings, as they are thin, and wear out quickly.

    Reinforcing the body is a good idea, especially in the rear.

    Heavier shock oil, and springs are highly recommended.

    Set gear mesh by hand, ditch the pin mount system. 50/20 gearing is a great bashing ratio keeping cool on very hot days.

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  3. #3
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    Considering an X-maxx

    I bought the 8S when it was brand new and ran it 6S due to some health issues at the time. Ditch the stock spur and get a good steel one. My stock spur crumbled.

    I put the TBone Racing Bumper , center, and a-arm skid plates. I also use their shock socks.

    Iím running 8S mown and getting more air time. Broke a steering knuckle, and just cracked the entire front diff case and chewed up the gears when I caught the exposed edge of a sidewalk. It stopped forward momentum dead, about 3/4 speed, and launched the entire truck 3 feet in the air and back down perfectly flat.

    Iíve had softer hits do more damage on lesser trucks.

    I also have added RPM arms up front, and will add the rear ones and their oversized rear hub kit soon. I also use their pin replacement bolts.

    Traxxas has released their own heavy duty arms that I hear a lot of good things from people on hear.

    It all depends on how you run it. If you get air and tumble it to often you will break it, but it is usually spectacular when you do.

    The Maxx is also an alternative. It is basically an 1/8th scale X.

    Happy trucking.


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  4. #4
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    Hi there, welcome to the forum.

    I was in a similar position to you a few months ago, other than I knew I wanted a new monster truck.
    I also watched a lot of YouTube and did a lot of Googling.
    Eventually I decided on an X-Maxx and haven't regretted the decision at all. The truck is just so much fun.

    As for day 1 upgrades, have a look at most of my recent posts/threads, over the last few weeks I've been asking all the same questions.

    I swapped out the servo before even driving the truck. I used a 2085x for ease, but a few others don't seem to have much joy with these. Time will tell.
    I also got the proline brute body. The difference between that and stock is crazy.
    Everybody swaps out the rear carriers to get bigger bearing in there. I also have a set waiting to install.

    I haven't changed any diff or shock fluid yet, but it's still early days. To be honest, straight out the box its pretty good, barring the weak servo and bodyshell.

    There's lots of helpful guys on here, I'd have been lost without them, so don't be afraid to ask.
    Last edited by Double G; 11-16-2020 at 08:18 AM. Reason: don't even reference it.

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys. What's the rear carrier upgrade all about? Just stronger to take bigger jumps?

    Also, is it worth buying Traxxas batteries, or not really? Can they show you the battery level from the controller or anything like that? Or is it just info on your phone?

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Thanks guys. What's the rear carrier upgrade all about? Just stronger to take bigger jumps?

    Also, is it worth buying Traxxas batteries, or not really? Can they show you the battery level from the controller or anything like that? Or is it just info on your phone?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Personally I am not a fan of the Traxxas Transmitter. I could never figure the multi function knob out but Iím an old fart. Their Bluetooth and phone app are really good.

    Traxxas gives good warranty coverage on their batteries.

    I run the Futaba 3PV and a Max 6 now. I like having individual buttons for all the common adjustments.


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  7. #7
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    Thanks. Are hop up parts generally pretty cheap for the Xmaxx? I've heard talk of people spending thousands on an X-maxx, and I really don't want to go that far. I just want a good fun rig, without breaking the bank. The Xmaxx costs enough to begin with!

    Currently the only proper RC I have is my Arrma Senton that has some light modifications. I'm not the kinda person who is devoted to a single brand though, so happy to buy whatever is best. I really like the easy release shell and battery trays - that'll be way easier than fiddling with 4 tiny body clips with freezing cold fingers, and the same with the battery straps.

    Does the Proline shell have the same clip system?

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Thanks. Are hop up parts generally pretty cheap for the Xmaxx? I've heard talk of people spending thousands on an X-maxx, and I really don't want to go that far. I just want a good fun rig, without breaking the bank. The Xmaxx costs enough to begin with!

    Currently the only proper RC I have is my Arrma Senton that has some light modifications. I'm not the kinda person who is devoted to a single brand though, so happy to buy whatever is best. I really like the easy release shell and battery trays - that'll be way easier than fiddling with 4 tiny body clips with freezing cold fingers, and the same with the battery straps.

    Does the Proline shell have the same clip system?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Hi mate, welcome to the Traxxas Forum. The Proline body shell use the same clip system, when the people spends more money in a X-Maxx, is for extreme mods, the spares in X-Maxx are cheapest than Kraton 8S. In fact, I recommend to you the X-Maxx always.

  9. #9
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    I'll try and answer some of the questions that I think have been missed. I'm new to the X-Maxx, but have had RC trucks for years, my E-Revo being replaced by my new X-Maxx.
    If any of these are wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me.


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    One question I have though, is when was the X-maxx last updated? The Kraton 8s is pretty new and already on a (sort of) V2 version with a few minor changes.
    The X-Maxx had an update a few years ago. It was initially a 6S truck, now 8S. I'm afraid I don't know what was upgraded to go with the increased power, but you'd not buy a 6S version now, unless it was REALLY cheap.
    I think the rollcage inside the body now comes with the mounting points for the roof skid plate, in case you choose to fit one.


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    What's the rear carrier upgrade all about? Just stronger to take bigger jumps?
    The inner bearing within the carriers are a known weak spot due to their size. The uprated carriers take a bigger bearing. I would suggest that jumping is probably what kills them however.


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Also, is it worth buying Traxxas batteries, or not really? Can they show you the battery level from the controller or anything like that? Or is it just info on your phone?
    I've never been a Traxxas battery fan, they seem overpriced for what you get. I don't see any advantage over 3rd party batteries.
    The link app on your phone talks to the handset. The handset gets all the telemetry from truck. All the sensors are built in from factory. You will need to spend around £30 on the bluetooth module for your handset, but it's well worth it. The Traxxas phone holder for the top of your handset is actually really good. I expected it to be junk, but it holds your phone well, even a big phone in tough case. It's also in a good place for photos with your phone. The app gives you real time temp & voltage, plus RPM & speed, but I'm not sure how great those last 2 are.
    The other advantage of the app is getting updates for your truck & just for setting everything up like endpoints is a piece of cake. Much easier than pressing buttons to scroll through a menu system while watching a blinking light!


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Does the Proline shell have the same clip system?
    Yes, you can either buy the clips & rollcage, or swap them out from the shell that comes with your truck.


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    I really like the easy release shell and battery trays - that'll be way easier than fiddling with 4 tiny body clips with freezing cold fingers, and the same with the battery straps.
    Yep, the shell release & battery mounts are great. People have issues with them coming undone, but anything would if you abuse it enough!


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Thanks. Are hop up parts generally pretty cheap for the Xmaxx? I've heard talk of people spending thousands on an X-maxx, and I really don't want to go that far. I just want a good fun rig, without breaking the bank. The Xmaxx costs enough to begin with!
    The people spending big money on their truck are either making it alloy instead plastic for, for no reason I understand, barring a few key bits or are trying to make the thing as fast as humanly possible. That gets really expensive as drive chain bits all need to follow suit & at greater speed comes greater crash damage of course! The truck is more than quick enough for me on 8S!
    Stock replacement bits are cheap, compared to a lot of other trucks out there & you don't need to spend a fortune on the truck to make to reliable.

    Hope that helps, shout up if there's anything else.
    One last thing to add, although I've not had hundreds of different RCs over the years, I've had a few. The X-Maxx is the first to make me act like a kid at Christmas again. It is just such a great RC.
    Last edited by Chewbacca 3; 11-16-2020 at 05:05 PM.

  10. #10
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    Thanks. How often do they get updated then? The Arrma models seem to be updated annually - is it not the same with Traxxas? I just don't want to buy one now if a new one is due next year. I could wait if there's likely to be an update.

    With regards to the Traxxas app and BT module, do you need to use Traxxas batteries to get the info from the BT module? The only thing I really want is the battery level. I had assumed you'd need the Traxxas batteries to get the info. If not, that works for me, because I agree they are expensive. I don't think I'd be looking at speed or rpm whilst driving - that seems unnecessary, so I'm not bothered about that.

    Also, does it work OK with Bluetooth? Bluetooth isn't known for having great range, so I'd have thought it kept disconnecting every time you drive it away from yourself?

    I also like the fact that the X-maxx can self-right, as I've had to slowly walk to my Senton a few times to kick it over, so having the truck do that on its own would be great, however I've seen mention a few times of it supposedly killing your diffs? But I don't understand why it would kill them? Seems like having no load on the wheels would make life easy on the diffs. (Especially versus something like landing big jumps!) Does anyone have any insight into that and whether it really harms the diffs at all?

    With regards to revisions of the X-maxx again, have there been no updates since it went to 8s then? I see that on various different retailers the truck is available in various different colour schemes, so it had me wondering if certain colour schemes meant an older model, or do they still make around 6 different colours?

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  11. #11
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    No idea on updates if I'm honest. My X-Maxx was up to date out the box. My old E-revo got about 2 ever, and my Rally 1.
    Guess it's when fixes get issued, same as anything else.

    The bluetooth is just to your transmitter, so no connection issues there. Obviously the transmitter stays in contact with your truck.

    You don't need traxxas batts for the telemetry. It's just picking up the ESC voltage, so any batts will work.

    Yes, there's a few colours out there, just make sure the box says 8s on the front in big letters.

    Can't really comment on the self righting. I guess if you use it 10 times every battery pack it may cause issues. It's amazing how often you can save the truck with trigger though, before you get to that stage.

    Are you in the UK? (From your name)
    If so, Wheelspin models will look after you and make sure you get the latest edition. I believe they even price match. It's where I got mine from and there after sales service has been great.

  12. #12
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    Yes, I'm in the UK. Are you also?

    I bought my Arrma at the beginning of the year from makeitbuildit and find they generally have the cheapest prices on everything RC, but for some reason they're more expensive for the X-Maxx, so I may well go to Wheelspin. I find that the price for the X-Maxx here in the UK is more in GBP than the Americans get it for in USD! I guess that's partly due to the shipping costs of this big beast, but still, it means it's nearly a grand for a toy before you even think about batteries or upgrades. Also, it's not the kind of toy you can easily hide from the wife!

    It sounds like Traxxas don't update their vehicles like Arrma then, which I actually prefer. I bought my Arrma in January and there's already a new version with a different body. I also spent ages swapping all the bearings out for rubber sealed ones and the new version comes with all that... Ugggh.

    Sounds like the X-Maxx has been vaguely the same for years though, which is probably good, as it means there should be good parts availability as well.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Yes, I'm in the UK. Are you also?

    I bought my Arrma at the beginning of the year from makeitbuildit and find they generally have the cheapest prices on everything RC, but for some reason they're more expensive for the X-Maxx, so I may well go to Wheelspin. I find that the price for the X-Maxx here in the UK is more in GBP than the Americans get it for in USD! I guess that's partly due to the shipping costs of this big beast, but still, it means it's nearly a grand for a toy before you even think about batteries or upgrades. Also, it's not the kind of toy you can easily hide from the wife!

    It sounds like Traxxas don't update their vehicles like Arrma then, which I actually prefer. I bought my Arrma in January and there's already a new version with a different body. I also spent ages swapping all the bearings out for rubber sealed ones and the new version comes with all that... Ugggh.

    Sounds like the X-Maxx has been vaguely the same for years though, which is probably good, as it means there should be good parts availability as well.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Traxxas is more reliable than the new ARRMA (Horizon Hobby).

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    Traxxas is more reliable than the new ARRMA (Horizon Hobby).
    Well the Kraton seems like more my kinda truck, but after seeing the abuse that the X-Maxx can take, it certainly makes a case for itself, hence why I'm now on here asking about it!

  15. #15
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    Traxxasís business model is to offer a good basic model, and then sell you some upgrades to go with it. Many third party companies then start offering parts because Traxxas is so darned big now.

    They always seem to reuse parts whenever possible. Helps keep the spare parts business easier to organize.

    I run a 4Pede and a X.

    Love em both in their own ways.


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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Yes, I'm in the UK. Are you also?
    Yes mate, in between Sheffield & Nottingham


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Also, it's not the kind of toy you can easily hide from the wife!
    You sound just like me! (But don't tell my wife I said that!)


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    It sounds like Traxxas don't update their vehicles like Arrma then, which I actually prefer. I bought my Arrma in January and there's already a new version with a different body. I also spent ages swapping all the bearings out for rubber sealed ones and the new version comes with all that... Ugggh.
    Yeah, from my limited experience the X-Maxx seems well established with only a few out the box issues to look at now.


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Sounds like the X-Maxx has been vaguely the same for years though, which is probably good, as it means there should be good parts availability as well.
    All the big UK stores hold parts in stock for the X-Maxx, including the popular upgrades. No issues there at all.


    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Well the Kraton seems like more my kinda truck, but after seeing the abuse that the X-Maxx can take, it certainly makes a case for itself, hence why I'm now on here asking about it!
    I was in exactly the same situation a couple of months ago, when looking for a replacement for my V1 E-Revo. I quickly decided I wanted a king big truck, so it was Kraton or X-Maxx. These are some of the things that helped me decide on an X-Maxx...
    I watch a lot of youtube videos & it always seemed the X-Maxx was always the last man standing, when lots of trucks were bashed together. I was also put off by the Kraton alloy chassis & how many videos showed it bent. The cost of new chassis put me off very quickly, plus looking further into general spares, all the Traxxas bits looked much cheaper to replace. Some of the Kraton spare parts are so expensive!
    That said, the Kraton looks so much cooler IMO (plus is quicker by most reports) but it doesn't really look like a monster truck, which the X-Maxx does. In the end, I decided the truck would look bashed up before long, so appearance probably was the last thing I should consider. It doesn't matter how pretty it is when the shell is wrapped up in duck tape! As it turns out, the stock truck is quick enough for me, so I'm glad I wasn't turned to the slightly faster Kraton just for an extra few MPH.
    One last thing, the X-Maxx is so easy to work on it's ridiculous. I've no experience of the Kraton to compare to that, but the X-Maxx is the easiest truck I've ever had to look at. Everything just seems accessible & well thought out.

  17. #17
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    Thanks. I prefer the look of the Kraton also, but like you think the plastic chassis is better than the metal one. I'm not a huge fan of wheelies, as you can't stay on throttle and turn, and the Kraton being wider is also less likely to flip over. I also don't have any jumps near me, which is kinda the big thing for the X-Maxx. That said, like you say - the RC guys on YouTube who have access to all the latest RC cars when they come out, what do they always bring along? There's always several X-Maxxes at every outing and despite all the new tricks and cars they get, they still always say the X-Maxx is their favourite and most fun.

    Now I just need to know what bits I should order with it straight away. I'll try to do a bulk deal and get all the stuff I need from the get go. I just need to know what things are most essential. Arms, pinion, servo, etc?

    Might be worth starting a new thread for that though?

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  18. #18
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    I'll give you list from one X-Maxx newbie to another. Be tomorrow though, need sleep.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    I'll give you list from one X-Maxx newbie to another. Be tomorrow though, need sleep.
    Thanks, I appreciate it. Sleep sounds like a winner.

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Thanks. I prefer the look of the Kraton also, but like you think the plastic chassis is better than the metal one. I'm not a huge fan of wheelies, as you can't stay on throttle and turn, and the Kraton being wider is also less likely to flip over. I also don't have any jumps near me, which is kinda the big thing for the X-Maxx. That said, like you say - the RC guys on YouTube who have access to all the latest RC cars when they come out, what do they always bring along? There's always several X-Maxxes at every outing and despite all the new tricks and cars they get, they still always say the X-Maxx is their favourite and most fun.

    Now I just need to know what bits I should order with it straight away. I'll try to do a bulk deal and get all the stuff I need from the get go. I just need to know what things are most essential. Arms, pinion, servo, etc?

    Might be worth starting a new thread for that though?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    The parts I consider important to have is, Heavy duty A Arms, a servo, 2085X or other in 1/10 size with the 7749 adapter, rear hubs, prefer to have the RPM ones, better than stock ones. A set of bearings. Any spur gears for spare, GDS is a good option in this case. A good set of batteries, you can watch the SMC ones for example, Traxxas batteries are expensive and low rate C, I use GAONENG 110C 6500mAh 4S. If you want more mods, see the HOT RACING page or GDS, these brands are very good and reliable.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    The parts I consider important to have is, Heavy duty A Arms, a servo, 2085X or other in 1/10 size with the 7749 adapter, rear hubs, prefer to have the RPM ones, better than stock ones. A set of bearings. Any spur gears for spare, GDS is a good option in this case. A good set of batteries, you can watch the SMC ones for example, Traxxas batteries are expensive and low rate C, I use GAONENG 110C 6500mAh 4S. If you want more mods, see the HOT RACING page or GDS, these brands are very good and reliable.
    Thanks. What's the minimum C rating that should be used for the X-Maxx?

    And what's better, the Proline rear hubs and arms, or RPM?

    What are the set of bearings for? Spares?

    Also, I like the look of the Proline Chevy Silverado body, but saw somebody mention that the Proline bodies are less durable than the stock ones? Is that right?

  22. #22
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    Got 5 minutes at work, so here's a quick list that I think is a win for the new X-Maxx owner.

    First thing I will say, I'm not into upgrading everything unless it needs it, so my list will reflect that. If money is no problem though, shout up as I'm sure there will be a lot more you can do. Please don't forget I'm I new X-Maxx owner, so in your shoes recently. There's a lot of guys here with much more experience than I have.

    Bodyshell
    There's 3 real choices here

    • Stock or a lexan aftermarket
    • Proline Brute

    I've went for the brute body because it was easier to get hold of in the UK & as much a shoe glue & tape will strengthen a body, it's still not great. If you get another bodyshell you will need to buy the body mounts & cage (TRX7715 & TRX7713x) or pinch them from the supplied stock shell. Don't forget to washers under all the screws to stop them pulling through.
    Here's what I did in the end, picture near the bottom of the thread. Linky


    Batteries

    I'm no expert here, but after much research went for Gens Ace. The common batteries everyone shouts about aren't easily available in the UK. I'm actually about to get a second set though. I got the 4S 5000 softcase, but wish I'd gone hardcase if I'm honest. It appears the Gens Ace 4S 6750 hardcase will fit, so I'm going to give those a try. As for C rating, just get as big as you can seems to be the popular choice.
    Don't forget adaptors for the batteries if going non-Traxxas connectors, or a set of connectors to solder onto you ESC.
    A lot of people seem to modify the battery holders, but I really like the stock ones so far. That said, I have put a strap (dog collar ) round them to ensure they don't come undone.
    Rather than spend lots of money on spares you may not need, I'd really go for another set of batteries. Spend the extra money to get better run time.
    The other thing would be a dual or quad charger. I've been struggling with a single charger for years, but recently upgraded to a SkyRC Q200 Quad. It's got bluetooth connection for the phone, which just makes everything so easy. 4 batteries at once saves so much messing about.

    Everything else

    I honestly wouldn't go mad here until you've got used to the truck

    • Rear carriers - RPM or Proline, both seem to be recommended, I went RPM
    • Servo - I went 2085x, seemed a sensible choice to start with, upgrade if needed further down the road. I powered the truck with the stock servo & it seemed weak to me. I swapped this out before even running it.
    • Cheap full set of bearings - You're in the UK, it is always wet & muddy, bearing have a hard life. Better to have spares ready if needed. Ebay is your friend here.
    • Spare arms - I have a single set of RPM arms, as they will fit anywhere on the truck. If I break an A arm, I will buy the Traxxas HD arm to fix it, but use the RPM arm to keep the truck running until the spares come.
    • RPM threaded hinge pins - these seem a must if running the RPM arms, which is why there is a set in my spares box
    • Spare hinge pins, there's 2 sets you might need as some have reported losing these, TRX7740 and TRX7742
    • Bluetooth module for the transmitter
    • Glue/tape for the wheel holes. It's always wet here, so it just makes sense to seal them up. I used Tiger Seal, but just because I had some.



    I've not messed with gears yet, I like how the truck drives currently. I've also left the pins in for the motor mesh. These seem to be a love/hate thing. I'm going to wait until I have issues before changing these up.
    Also still running stock springs & oil. I'm not doing much jumping yet, so don't need to harden up the ride. Again, I'd wait to see how you get on first.

    The truck is so tough, it's really not worth going mad. Buy more batteries and run it more. Take it from there. A truck, decent batteries, servo, bodyshell, plus a few bits is going to be the best part of £1500 already!
    Last edited by Double G; 11-18-2020 at 08:37 PM.

  23. #23
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    It mostly depends on how you run it.

    I went 3 years on 6S and the only thing thing broke was the stock spur.

    This year went 8S and I broke a steering knuckle and just broke the entire front diff assembly.

    Still in pieces in my shop. Last part is waiting for me to get home and put it all back together.

    No matter what you stock you will break the thing you donít.


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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmarzke View Post
    No matter what you stock you will break the thing you don’t.
    Oh my god,.....this is the truth. I pack almost every part needed for the truck. One of the rare items I didn’t take with me last weekend, were the rear carrier as I figured, “I am using rpm upgraded, those will never break.”

    Sure enough, I broke both and had to go to The Hobby shop and get more.

    So yes, I agree Murphy’s Law, whatever you don’t bring will break.

  25. #25
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    One of the great things about the X-Maxx is how good it is right out of the box, so I would recommend to just drive it and worry about parts when you break them.

    Some easy things you can do, though, is to vent the tires if you run in wet conditions, or atleast cover the breather holes on the wheels with some tape to keep the water out. I would also cycle the tires from front to back so that they wear down evenly, because the rear tires wear down faster. And if you want to prolong the life of your bodyshell, you can reinforce it with Shoe Goo/E6000 and drywall tape.
    Edit: You can put some clear tape (like Gorilla) over the shock bodies to protect them from the springs rubbing against them or debris flying into them. This should preserve their good looks longer.

    Regarding batteries and C-rating, just ignore this number. Most batteries are around 30 real C, so Traxxas batteries aren't that bad but they are overpriced, imo. I would consider Gens Ace 4s 8500mAh.
    Last edited by MyBall; 11-18-2020 at 04:19 PM.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Thanks. What's the minimum C rating that should be used for the X-Maxx?

    And what's better, the Proline rear hubs and arms, or RPM?

    What are the set of bearings for? Spares?

    Also, I like the look of the Proline Chevy Silverado body, but saw somebody mention that the Proline bodies are less durable than the stock ones? Is that right?
    Buy the highest C rated batteries you can. I prefer the RPM ones, more affordable in price. The bearings, of course, are for spare. The Proline bodies are similar in quality to stock ones.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Got 5 minutes at work, so here's a quick list that I think is a win for the new X-Maxx owner.

    First thing I will say, I'm not into upgrading everything unless it needs it, so my list will reflect that. If money is no problem though, shout up as I'm sure there will be a lot more you can do. Please don't forget I'm I new X-Maxx owner, so in your shoes recently. There's a lot of guys here with much more experience than I have.

    Bodyshell
    There's 3 real choices here

    • Stock or a lexan aftermarket
    • Proline Brute

    I've went for the brute body because it was easier to get hold of in the UK & as much a shoe glue & tape will strengthen a body, it's still not great. If you get another bodyshell you will need to buy the body mounts & cage (TRX7715 & TRX7713x) or pinch them from the supplied stock shell. Don't forget to washers under all the screws to stop them pulling through.
    Here's what I did in the end, picture near the bottom of the thread. Linky


    Batteries

    I'm no expert here, but after much research went for Gens Ace. The common batteries everyone shouts about aren't easily available in the UK. I'm actually about to get a second set though. I got the 4S 5000 softcase, but wish I'd gone hardcase if I'm honest. It appears the Gens Ace 4S 6750 hardcase will fit, so I'm going to give those a try. As for C rating, just get as big as you can seems to be the popular choice.
    Don't forget adaptors for the batteries if going non-Traxxas connectors, or a set of connectors to solder onto you ESC.
    A lot of people seem to modify the battery holders, but I really like the stock ones so far. That said, I have put a strap (dog collar ) round them to ensure they don't come undone.
    Rather than spend lots of money on spares you may not need, I'd really go for another set of batteries. Spend the extra money to get better run time.
    The other thing would be a dual or quad charger. I've been struggling with a single charger for years, but recently upgraded to a SkyRC Q200 Quad. It's got bluetooth connection for the phone, which just makes everything so easy. 4 batteries at once saves so much messing about.

    Everything else

    I honestly wouldn't go mad here until you've got used to the truck

    • Rear carriers - RPM or Proline, both seem to be recommended, I went RPM
    • Servo - I went 2085x, seemed a sensible choice to start with, upgrade if needed further down the road. I powered the truck with the stock servo & it seemed weak to me. I swapped this out before even running it.
    • Cheap full set of bearings - You're in the UK, it is always wet & muddy, bearing have a hard life. Better to have spares ready if needed. Ebay is your friend here.
    • Spare arms - I have a single set of RPM arms, as they will fit anywhere on the truck. If I break an A arm, I will buy the Traxxas HD arm to fix it, but use the RPM arm to keep the truck running until the spares come.
    • RPM threaded hinge pins - these seem a must if running the RPM arms, which is why there is a set in my spares box
    • Spare hinge pins, there's 2 sets you might need as some have reported losing these, TRX7740 and TRX7742
    • Bluetooth module for the transmitter
    • Glue/tape for the wheel holes. It's always wet here, so it just makes sense to seal them up. I used Tiger Seal, but just because I had some.



    I've not messed with gears yet, I like how the truck drives currently. I've also left the pins in for the motor mesh. These seem to be a love/hate thing. I'm going to wait until I have issues before changing these up.
    Also still running stock springs & oil. I'm not doing much jumping yet, so don't need to harden up the ride. Again, I'd wait to see how you get on first.

    The truck is so tough, it's really not worth going mad. Buy more batteries and run it more. Take it from there. A truck, decent batteries, servo, bodyshell, plus a few bits is going to be the best part of £1500 already!
    This is an outstanding list, totally agree.
    Last edited by Double G; 11-18-2020 at 08:38 PM.

  28. #28
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    When it comes to sealing the wheel holes, I thought you had to vent the tyres if you did that, else the tyres will explode? You guys make it sound optional? If it's optional, what's the benefit of venting?

    With regards to the A arms and hubs, why do you say you'd get the Traxxas HD A arms over the RPM ones? I was actually looking at the Proline Pro arms. They look pretty neat with the shrouds, but if a particular brand is supposed to be tougher/better than the rest then I'd go for those.

    Same with the hubs, RPM or ProLine? Again, I like the look of the Proline Pro hubs. I'm sure they're equally as strong as the RPM ones, but the exterior is flatter, so I figure easier to clean.

    On my Senton the first thing I bought was front and rear bumpers and a skid plate for the underbody. However, it looks like the X-Maxx is far less susceptible to scraping the undercarriage, so not sure it's needed. Does anybody even do one? Also, it seems like the underbody pieces on the X-maxx are all replaceable anyway, whereas on my Senton if you bottom it out it's the chassis that you're scraping.

    I also love the look of the Proline beadlock rims with the screw down rings, but then read that the Badlands tyres they come with are quite a bit heavier. Are there other options that are lighter and fit those rims?

    My reason for wanting to buy everything in one go is to try to save as much as possible by trying to do a deal with the store supplying the truck. With my Senton I got 10% off all parts that I bought with the truck, and buying it all together saved postage, too.

    Ultimately I can leave bigger/less necessary stuff to later, but it's nice to get an idea of what I want to do from the outset so I have the best bits to begin with. Also, it's that time of year when everyone is asking me "what do you want for Xmas", so it would be good to have some upgrades that I can hand out to people to give me.

    I tend to like fitting it all before taking the truck out and getting it dirty, so may end up with an X-Maxx sat here taunting me for a month until Xmas, waiting for it's upgrades.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Got 5 minutes at work, so here's a quick list that I think is a win for the new X-Maxx owner.

    First thing I will say, I'm not into upgrading everything unless it needs it, so my list will reflect that. If money is no problem though, shout up as I'm sure there will be a lot more you can do. Please don't forget I'm I new X-Maxx owner, so in your shoes recently. There's a lot of guys here with much more experience than I have.

    Bodyshell
    There's 3 real choices here

    • Stock or a lexan aftermarket
    • Proline Brute

    I've went for the brute body because it was easier to get hold of in the UK & as much a shoe glue & tape will strengthen a body, it's still not great. If you get another bodyshell you will need to buy the body mounts & cage (TRX7715 & TRX7713x) or pinch them from the supplied stock shell. Don't forget to washers under all the screws to stop them pulling through.
    Here's what I did in the end, picture near the bottom of the thread. Linky


    Batteries

    I'm no expert here, but after much research went for Gens Ace. The common batteries everyone shouts about aren't easily available in the UK. I'm actually about to get a second set though. I got the 4S 5000 softcase, but wish I'd gone hardcase if I'm honest. It appears the Gens Ace 4S 6750 hardcase will fit, so I'm going to give those a try. As for C rating, just get as big as you can seems to be the popular choice.
    Don't forget adaptors for the batteries if going non-Traxxas connectors, or a set of connectors to solder onto you ESC.
    A lot of people seem to modify the battery holders, but I really like the stock ones so far. That said, I have put a strap (dog collar ) round them to ensure they don't come undone.
    Rather than spend lots of money on spares you may not need, I'd really go for another set of batteries. Spend the extra money to get better run time.
    The other thing would be a dual or quad charger. I've been struggling with a single charger for years, but recently upgraded to a SkyRC Q200 Quad. It's got bluetooth connection for the phone, which just makes everything so easy. 4 batteries at once saves so much messing about.

    Everything else

    I honestly wouldn't go mad here until you've got used to the truck

    • Rear carriers - RPM or Proline, both seem to be recommended, I went RPM
    • Servo - I went 2085x, seemed a sensible choice to start with, upgrade if needed further down the road. I powered the truck with the stock servo & it seemed weak to me. I swapped this out before even running it.
    • Cheap full set of bearings - You're in the UK, it is always wet & muddy, bearing have a hard life. Better to have spares ready if needed. Ebay is your friend here.
    • Spare arms - I have a single set of RPM arms, as they will fit anywhere on the truck. If I break an A arm, I will buy the Traxxas HD arm to fix it, but use the RPM arm to keep the truck running until the spares come.
    • RPM threaded hinge pins - these seem a must if running the RPM arms, which is why there is a set in my spares box
    • Spare hinge pins, there's 2 sets you might need as some have reported losing these, TRX7740 and TRX7742
    • Bluetooth module for the transmitter
    • Glue/tape for the wheel holes. It's always wet here, so it just makes sense to seal them up. I used Tiger Seal, but just because I had some.



    I've not messed with gears yet, I like how the truck drives currently. I've also left the pins in for the motor mesh. These seem to be a love/hate thing. I'm going to wait until I have issues before changing these up.
    Also still running stock springs & oil. I'm not doing much jumping yet, so don't need to harden up the ride. Again, I'd wait to see how you get on first.

    The truck is so tough, it's really not worth going mad. Buy more batteries and run it more. Take it from there. A truck, decent batteries, servo, bodyshell, plus a few bits is going to be the best part of £1500 already!
    Also, I should say a big thanks for this. I appreciate you taking the time to write such a thorough post.

    Funny enough, on the Arrma forums they are obsessed with "liking" every single post and one guy even got snotty with me for not liking everything. (It's not a concept I'd ever encountered on a forum before.)

    On here there doesn't even seem to be a like button to thank you with!

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Double G; 11-18-2020 at 08:38 PM. Reason: merge, clutter reduction

  29. #29
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    I run the TBone Racing front bumper and full skid plate set including the A-arms.

    RPM arms flex more than others. I run RPM with the bolt kit top and bottom. You just have to melt the head in a bit on the top side bolt. Iím keeping the stockers as backup.

    Rpm has been doing X from the beginning. Proline is just getting in and I havenít looked closely at there stuff yet.


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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    Buy the highest C rated batteries you can. I prefer the RPM ones, more affordable in price. The bearings, of course, are for spare. The Proline bodies are similar in quality to stock ones.
    Yeah, I'll definitely buy the highest rated ones I can, I just wondered what the minimum requirement is. It's just good to know, so I know of I've got a little headroom or a lot. If 50C is the minimum and I buy 70C, then great, but if I buy 70C and find out I needed minimum of 80C then I'll be concerned!

    Also what connectors am I looking for?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Also, I should say a big thanks for this. I appreciate you taking the time to write such a thorough post.
    No problem mate. I've had lots of help on here, so just trying to give back.

    I've gone for RPM everything in the past, its so good on all my other RCs, I just carried on with my X-Maxx. There seems to be mixed reviews on here about the RPM arms, they are apparently really flexible, so much so you need the threaded pins to stop them coming off.

    There's good reviews on the Traxxas heavy duty arms, so I thought I'd try those, once I break an arm that is.

    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Also what connectors am I looking for?
    For stock you need either the new style Traxxas or old style. Old ones are only made by 3rd party now, often called TRX connectors. Personally I like XT90 connectors, but you'll need to swap out the connectors on the truck, or use adaptors. XT90 to TRX plugs are cheap as anything on ebay, but I'm not sure lots of connections in the system are so great.
    I'm using the adaptors for a while just because of warranty. Going to put XT90s on the truck in the near future.
    Last edited by Double G; 11-18-2020 at 08:32 PM. Reason: merge, clutter reduction

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    I've gone for RPM everything in the past, its so good on all my other RCs, I just carried on with my X-Maxx. There seems to be mixed reviews on here about the RPM arms, they are apparently really flexible, so much so you need the threaded pins to stop them coming off.

    There's good reviews on the Traxxas heavy duty arms, so I thought I'd try those, once I break an arm that is.
    I personally love RPM arms as they take much abuse, my Rustler goes 45 on 2s (capable of 4s) and I have crashed it into curbs at full speed with no damage. I have heard people say that if you put too much stress on RPM parts that they will bend and not fully return to their original shape but I personally haven't had that happen.

    In terms of the Traxxas Heavy Duty arms, the only comments I've seen on them so far are good. A lot of people prefer them over the RPM ones so I might have to give them a try should I ever break an arm on my brothers Fiesta.
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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElectricPropils View Post
    I personally love RPM arms as they take much abuse, my Rustler goes 45 on 2s (capable of 4s) and I have crashed it into curbs at full speed with no damage. I have heard people say that if you put too much stress on RPM parts that they will bend and not fully return to their original shape but I personally haven't had that happen
    Your Rustler is much lighter than the X-maxx. I've had good luck with them also on a T-maxx. On a heavy truck like the X-maxx their material is a bit too flexible for the size of the truck.

  34. #34
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    Are there any reviews of the Proline stuff yet? If not, I might be the guinea pig, though if the Traxxas arms are sensibly priced and get good reviews then it's probably a good option as they're made by the manufacturer of the truck.

    I also like the look of the skid plate for the roof - what Traxxas part number is that? And does anyone know if it fits the Proline Silverado body?

    If the Brits body isn't much stronger than stock then I might just get the cheaper Silverado body, have the fun of painting it, and then shoe goo and drywall tape it for additional strength.



    Some of them look pretty ugly, but myain concern would be that they come from Russia, so might have taxes and also that there might not be any decal sheets for them? (Just looks silly without some fake headlights and a grille, IMO.)

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk


    Per Traxxas, any mention of the body from the other side of the world is not allowed to be referenced or mentioned. This is due to a violation of a copyrighted product. Please respect our host's request.
    Last edited by Double G; 11-18-2020 at 08:34 PM.

  35. #35
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    Brits? I guess that's auto correct for brute?
    If so, its night and day. The brute body is like a tank compared to the stock lexan ones. Its seems stronger than any I've ever shoe glued, but it's still early days. Lol

    I would think the skid plate would fit any shell if needed.
    The Traxxas one attaches to the inner cage, I think the RPM version just attaches to the shell, don't quote me on that though.
    Last edited by Double G; 11-18-2020 at 08:34 PM. Reason: merge, edit

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Your Rustler is much lighter than the X-maxx. I've had good luck with them also on a T-maxx. On a heavy truck like the X-maxx their material is a bit too flexible for the size of the truck.
    Ahh, I see.
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    When it comes to sealing the wheel holes, I thought you had to vent the tyres if you did that, else the tyres will explode? You guys make it sound optional? If it's optional, what's the benefit of venting?
    No, they won't explode. Basically you want to keep the water out or let it escape through the rubber. If water gets trapped your tires will be unbalanced and the foams will quickly get ruined.

    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Yeah, I'll definitely buy the highest rated ones I can, I just wondered what the minimum requirement is. It's just good to know, so I know of I've got a little headroom or a lot. If 50C is the minimum and I buy 70C, then great, but if I buy 70C and find out I needed minimum of 80C then I'll be concerned!
    Traxxas recommends batteries with 25C, so why would 80C be a minimum? Are they really that clueless? Like I said earlier, don't worry too much about C-rating because it's an inflated number made to sell batteries. You couldn't even find a battery with a true 80C rating. If you want to learn more about batteries and their actual C-ratings, you can read this thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...st-Comparisons

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBall View Post
    No, they won't explode. Basically you want to keep the water out or let it escape through the rubber. If water gets trapped your tires will be unbalanced and the foams will quickly get ruined.


    Traxxas recommends batteries with 25C, so why would 80C be a minimum? Are they really that clueless? Like I said earlier, don't worry too much about C-rating because it's an inflated number made to sell batteries. You couldn't even find a battery with a true 80C rating. If you want to learn more about batteries and their actual C-ratings, you can read this thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...st-Comparisons
    Thanks. So the X-maxx only needs 25C? That's what I was wondering. If it's that low then pretty much all the Battier's I've seen should be OK. I guess the higher the number the less issue you should have with heat/failure?

    Regarding the tyres I guess I'll just seal the inside then. I never liked the idea of making holes in the tyre. Do people tend to wrap them with fishing line or anything to stop them ballooning?

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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Brits? I guess that's auto correct for brute?
    If so, its night and day. The brute body is like a tank compared to the stock lexan ones. Its seems stronger than any I've ever shoe glued, but it's still early days. Lol

    I would think the skid plate would fit any shell if needed.
    The Traxxas one attaches to the inner cage, I think the RPM version just attaches to the shell, don't quote me on that though.
    Yeah, stupid autocorrect. Was supposed to be Brute.

    So can the inner cage be fitted to the Brute body, or not? And do Proline do a roof skid, or did you use the RPM one?

    I saw the post of your body and roof skid last night. Looks good.

    I'm still not sure what colour X-Maxx to get. Either orange or the Rock N Roll scheme.

    The former has orange shocks and wheel it's, which look nice, and the latter has blue ones, which seem to look good with the Proline body (from their pics).

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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Thanks. So the X-maxx only needs 25C? That's what I was wondering. If it's that low then pretty much all the Battier's I've seen should be OK. I guess the higher the number the less issue you should have with heat/failure?

    Regarding the tyres I guess I'll just seal the inside then. I never liked the idea of making holes in the tyre. Do people tend to wrap them with fishing line or anything to stop them ballooning?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    25C is enough, especially in its stock form. That said, higher C batteries will probably do the job better and maybe last longer. The problem is to find batteries that actually have higher C, but the thread I posted can also be used as a guide to what batteries to buy.

    I myself have the Traxxas 6700's and I have around 100-150 cycles on them. Had no issues with them and they still have plenty of juice, but I probably won't buy them again because I think they are overpriced.

    Regarding tire ballooning, it's true that some people wrap tires in fishing lines or whatever. But ballooning is not inherently bad, it's more a matter of what you prefer. If you like high stability, then you don't want ballooning. But for doing backflips and other tricks, ballooning helps to rotate the truck.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-19-2020 at 07:27 AM. Reason: Content

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