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  1. #41
    RC Racer
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    You still need the cage with the proline body.
    Check their website out, there's an instruction vid for fitment.

    I don't think proline do a roof skid, I used the Traxxas one because I liked the idea of it attaching to the internal cage.

    Colour is a tough choice. Lol. No one can help you there.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBall View Post
    25C is enough, especially in its stock form. That said, higher C batteries will probably do the job better and maybe last longer. The problem is to find batteries that actually have higher C, but the thread I posted can also be used as a guide to what batteries to buy.

    I myself have the Traxxas 6700's and I have around 100-150 cycles on them. Had no issues with them and they still have plenty of juice, but I probably won't buy them again because I think they are overpriced.

    Regarding tire ballooning, it's true that some people wrap tires in fishing lines or whatever. But ballooning is not inherently bad, it's more a matter of what you prefer. If you like high stability, then you don't want ballooning. But for doing backflips and other tricks, ballooning helps to rotate the truck.
    For my Arrma I use Gens Ace and Ovonics batteries. Seem to do the trick, though my Senton sometimes slows right down like it has run out of battery, even though the pack has like 40% or so left in it. I assumed it was heat in the motor/ESC, but swapping to a new battery sets the truck off like a rocket again, so I have no idea...

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-19-2020 at 07:25 AM. Reason: Content

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    You still need the cage with the proline body.
    Check their website out, there's an instruction vid for fitment.

    I don't think proline do a roof skid, I used the Traxxas one because I liked the idea of it attaching to the internal cage.

    Colour is a tough choice. Lol. No one can help you there.
    Indeed. Initially I was looking at the green, but seeing the pics of the Brute body with the blue shocks looks good. Shame you can't paint the Brute body really.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmarzke View Post
    It mostly depends on how you run it.

    I went 3 years on 6S and the only thing thing broke was the stock spur.

    This year went 8S and I broke a steering knuckle and just broke the entire front diff assembly.

    Still in pieces in my shop. Last part is waiting for me to get home and put it all back together.

    No matter what you stock you will break the thing you donít.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I like the list but the right thing to do with battery connectors is to swap them out for what you need. You add a spot to generate heat and increase current draw.
    Donít use adapters if you want maximum lifetime and performance out of your truck.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #45
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    See post #34.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-19-2020 at 07:23 AM.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    See post #34.
    -ksb51rl
    Ah, apologies, I had no idea. Presumably the likes of Proline have paid some sort of licensing fee to make theirs then?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    I also don't have any jumps near me, which is kinda the big thing for the X-Maxx.
    I forgot to mention...

    https://www.skateparks.co.uk/park-finder/

    This site will help you break your new truck.

  8. #48
    RC Racer Nickerz's Avatar
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    Welcome To The Forum!

    A lot of good advice here and as you've read, mileage may vary depending on your circumstances. Big +1 on the RCGroups bunch, those guys know their electronics and are another good resource as well as here which makes these forums great, we can all share & learn from each other's best practices!

    If an upgraded X-Maxx 8S ("3.0") ever came out, I think it will include an upgraded servo with at least metal gears! There's always more that can be improved but it is very good out of the box imo. I kept my 8S stock from the start and eventually I replaced the plastic servo gears with metal ones ($30 vs. $100 2085X servo, documented here...) and I replaced a front suspension arm. I think that's it so far! But the parts are dirt cheap, $5-$15 usually and as someone else pointed out, the truck is so EASY to work on, so 10 minutes later and your back in the game bashing again.

    Nothing is fool-proof but I haven't seen anyone talk about the Shoe Goo & dry wall tape mod yet for your new body - and this WILL last! I did the Shoe Goo mod from day one and it's holding up GREAT after 2 1/2 years. I recently bought a new body but not to bash, just to look good on the wall as my shelf-queen since my original bashing body is holding up like a champ! Simply apply a little more Shoe Goo to places that might need it over the years and it's been just about unbreakable for me. Kevin Talbot now does this exclusively on all his new bodies btw.

    In the end, only you will know what's best for your circumstances but learning from other people's experience is always wise, then discern what's best for you.

    P.S. The customer support from Traxxas' is also GREAT!!! They replaced my stock servo (FREE), then replaced the plastic gears (twice-FREE) finally I bought the metal gears and have been good since. But I have had GREAT support from Traxxas' so far and that's another reason they keep getting my money!
    Last edited by Nickerz; 11-21-2020 at 04:18 PM. Reason: added link to servo fix...

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickerz View Post
    A lot of good advice here and as you've read, mileage may vary depending on your circumstances. Big +1 on the RCGroups bunch, those guys know their electronics and are another good resource as well as here which makes these forums great, we can all share & learn from each other's best practices!

    If an upgraded X-Maxx 8S ("3.0") ever came out, I think it will include an upgraded servo with at least metal gears! There's always more that can be improved but it is very good out of the box imo. I kept my 8S stock from the start and eventually I replaced the plastic servo gears with metal ones ($30 vs. $100 2085X servo, documented here...) and I replaced a front suspension arm. I think that's it so far! But the parts are dirt cheap, $5-$15 usually and as someone else pointed out, the truck is so EASY to work on, so 10 minutes later and your back in the game bashing again.

    Nothing is fool-proof but I haven't seen anyone talk about the Shoe Goo & dry wall tape mod yet for your new body - and this WILL last! I did the Shoe Goo mod from day one and it's holding up GREAT after 2 1/2 years. I recently bought a new body but not to bash, just to look good on the wall as my shelf-queen since my original bashing body is holding up like a champ! Simply apply a little more Shoe Goo to places that might need it over the years and it's been just about unbreakable for me. Kevin Talbot now does this exclusively on all his new bodies btw.

    In the end, only you will know what's best for your circumstances but learning from other people's experience is always wise, then discern what's best for you.

    P.S. The customer support from Traxxas' is also GREAT!!! They replaced my stock servo (FREE), then replaced the plastic gears (twice-FREE) finally I bought the metal gears and have been good since. But I have had GREAT support from Traxxas' so far and that's another reason they keep getting my money!
    Thanks for that - once you replace the gears of the servo is it basically a 2085x, or is the 2085x still more powerful etc?

    Edit: That's weird. I can only see half your post, then when I quote it it's much longer...?!

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    I forgot to mention...

    https://www.skateparks.co.uk/park-finder/

    This site will help you break your new truck.
    Thanks, but I know there's a skate park right near the entrance to my road, but it's the concrete bowl type and I think that would just end in total carnage. Plus the local skate/BMX guys seem to practically live there. All hours of day and night it seems to be occupied, so probably best I don't go chucking an X-maxx about in their way, especially when I'm brand new to it and RC jumping in general - I'll just end up making a fool of myself and having to carry a broken Xmaxx home.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  11. #51
    RC Racer Nickerz's Avatar
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    2085X vs. 2085 Servo

    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Thanks for that - once you replace the gears of the servo is it basically a 2085x, or is the 2085x still more powerful etc?

    Edit: That's weird. I can only see half your post, then when I quote it it's much longer...?!

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

    No, the upgraded 2085X servo does add...
    - More torque
    - Stiffer servo saver spring
    - Steel steering linkage

    ...so for the extra money you do get more but my stock servo with metal gears for only $30 vs. $100 has served me well so far. I assume there are even better servos for less money than the 2085X, just make sure they are waterproof like the Traxxas servos are.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickerz View Post
    No, the upgraded 2085X servo does add...
    - More torque
    - Stiffer servo saver spring
    - Steel steering linkage

    ...so for the extra money you do get more but my stock servo with metal gears for only $30 vs. $100 has served me well so far. I assume there are even better servos for less money than the 2085X, just make sure they are waterproof like the Traxxas servos are.
    Probably, but as I understand it, Traxxas made the servo in the Xmaxx intentionally different (or awkwardly mounted) so that other servos can't just be swapped in.

    I know they do a relatively cheap adaptor to enable other servos to fit, but whether that's a less ideal solution than the 2085x, I dunno.

    I read that the 2085x isn8all that fast, but that might be good for the Xmaxx, as a faster servo might increase the likelihood of it rolling over.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Probably, but as I understand it, Traxxas made the servo in the Xmaxx intentionally different (or awkwardly mounted) so that other servos can't just be swapped in.

    I know they do a relatively cheap adaptor to enable other servos to fit, but whether that's a less ideal solution than the 2085x, I dunno.

    I read that the 2085x isn8all that fast, but that might be good for the Xmaxx, as a faster servo might increase the likelihood of it rolling over.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    An amount of people mount an aftermarket servo with the 7749 adapter, I use a JX 46 kg and works outstanding.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    An amount of people mount an aftermarket servo with the 7749 adapter, I use a JX 46 kg and works outstanding.
    What's the fitment like? Do you have a link to the servo and is it waterproof?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    What's the fitment like? Do you have a link to the servo and is it waterproof?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    It's waterproof and fits perfectly with the 7749 adapter from Traxxas, no cuts needed.

    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Desc=0&_sop=15

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