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  1. #1
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    What is proper maintenance on Rustler XL-5?

    I’m upgrading to bearings all around today and have a 2s Lipo battery now. What maintenance do you need to perform on a regular basis? I have some pc air spray that I use to get any dust and debris off, does anything need oiling?
    I ordered the dry lube wd40 as suggested by someone on here but not sure what needs to be lubricated regularly.

    I went for the traxxas id brand Lipo and charger so it charges correctly automatically. Is there any thing to know otherwise after using lipos?
    Last edited by Shaqueezy; 11-22-2020 at 02:52 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Make sure you out lipo in storage mode /voltage. 3.8v per cell



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  3. #3
    RC Qualifier RCWilly's Avatar
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    I usually don't run my vehicles in dirt or anything, but if I do, I use a brush to brush away the dust and debris (toothbrushes work best on driveshafts, shocks, hard to reach places).

    If I run in water or get the truck wet, I first remove the electronics (don't really need to, but I do that just to be safe, its best to remove the brushed motor so that no additional debris gets washed in and it can be cleaned separately), and then hose it down (use nonpressurized water, pressurized water can force water into the bearings). Once all the mud and debris are washed off, I first wipe everything down with a towel and use a leaf blower (with the smallest tip for it to concentrate the air) to dry off the car (pc air spray would also work fine). Then I apply some high-speed bearing oil (wd40 dry lube would work as well) on the exposed bearings.

    For the tires, I wash them if they are really dusty or wet/muddy. First, cover all venting holes on the wheel if they are not covered (use a towel to wipe the debris away, and tape it closed). That way, no water gets in the tires and foams. Next, I wet them with water to get most of the large debris off (chunks of dirt and whatnot). After that, I apply a bit of dish soap and scrub them with a brush. Then, I rinse and leave the tires on a towel to dry.

    I have never fully submerged any of my cars past the centerline of the wheel, but if I do, I will strip the submerged parts down, and let them dry fully before regreasing them and putting them back together.

    For the LiPos, keep them in storage mode when you won't be using them for more than a few days. Avoid keeping it fully charged for more than 2-3 days, as that will damage the battery and make it puff. On the other hand, try not to leave it discharged for too long, since it will also damage the battery and make it puff (make sure to disconnect the battery from the esc after lvd).

    Hope this helps!
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    I usually don't run my vehicles in dirt or anything, but if I do, I use a brush to brush away the dust and debris (toothbrushes work best on driveshafts, shocks, hard to reach places).

    If I run in water or get the truck wet, I first remove the electronics (don't really need to, but I do that just to be safe, its best to remove the brushed motor so that no additional debris gets washed in and it can be cleaned separately), and then hose it down (use nonpressurized water, pressurized water can force water into the bearings). Once all the mud and debris are washed off, I first wipe everything down with a towel and use a leaf blower (with the smallest tip for it to concentrate the air) to dry off the car (pc air spray would also work fine). Then I apply some high-speed bearing oil (wd40 dry lube would work as well) on the exposed bearings.

    For the tires, I wash them if they are really dusty or wet/muddy. First, cover all venting holes on the wheel if they are not covered (use a towel to wipe the debris away, and tape it closed). That way, no water gets in the tires and foams. Next, I wet them with water to get most of the large debris off (chunks of dirt and whatnot). After that, I apply a bit of dish soap and scrub them with a brush. Then, I rinse and leave the tires on a towel to dry.

    I have never fully submerged any of my cars past the centerline of the wheel, but if I do, I will strip the submerged parts down, and let them dry fully before regreasing them and putting them back together.

    For the LiPos, keep them in storage mode when you won't be using them for more than a few days. Avoid keeping it fully charged for more than 2-3 days, as that will damage the battery and make it puff. On the other hand, try not to leave it discharged for too long, since it will also damage the battery and make it puff (make sure to disconnect the battery from the esc after lvd).

    Hope this helps!
    Exactly what I wanted to know. So my Lipo has been fully charged since yesterday morning since the bearings came late, how do I put it in storage mode? I have the "Traxxas EZ Peak Plus 4amp Charger iD Auto Battery Identification TRA2970" EDIT: Just went out and saw it does have a store mode, got it.

    Sounds like doing too much of anything is bad for Lipo batteries...

    I found an old electric toothbrush to clean off parts and inside the areas where I am installing bearings etc. works great actually lol
    Last edited by Shaqueezy; 11-23-2020 at 10:32 AM.

  5. #5
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    Is the bushing behind the pinion gear the one people are referring to lubricating when talking about the titan motor? Also if itís a 5x11x4 would there be any benefit to replace with bearings ?

  6. #6
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    If you think you will ever go brushless motor. May want to go replacing all bushings with bearings. In diff and in axel hubs. Bushings cheaper need less maintenance but increase the rolling resistance. May get like 1 to 2 mph increase with bearings. A touch longer battery life. Most ppl replace all the bushings

    https://youtu.be/fJVGlvZQvGk

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    If you think you will ever go brushless motor. May want to go replacing all bushings with bearings. In diff and in axel hubs. Bushings cheaper need less maintenance but increase the rolling resistance. May get like 1 to 2 mph increase with bearings. A touch longer battery life. Most ppl replace all the bushings

    https://youtu.be/fJVGlvZQvGk

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


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    I have 2x packs of 10 coming today with aluminum axle carriers. Plan to replace all of them, but after all 4 tires axle carrie w I’ll have 8 left just trying to find out where more bushings are

  8. #8
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    In the diff and in the steering rack

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  9. #9
    Just remember that the bel crank has smaller bearings than in the rest of the truck. I thought the transmissions in these trucks came fully outfitted with bearings. I'm not wrong, am I?
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  10. #10
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    Looks like the steering is 5x8 so I’ll probably wait until I upgrade to one to aluminum as I assume they come with 5x11 size. I didn’t change out the one that the motor goes through to grab the pinion gear, it looks to be 5x11 bushing though. I haven’t taken all that apart just took the cover off the side to see the two gears, and only saw one bushing that the motor rod goes through

    My steering trim is constantly getting thrown off, so I’m eager to start putting in aluminum steering parts like caster blocks and steering blocks. Is there anything else that would help keep my steering from constantly needing trim to be re adjusted?
    Last edited by Shaqueezy; 11-24-2020 at 01:07 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Just remember that the bel crank has smaller bearings than in the rest of the truck. I thought the transmissions in these trucks came fully outfitted with bearings. I'm not wrong, am I?
    I was mistaken I was looking at a bushing pressed into the motor, not removable. You’re correct all bearings in the transmission

  12. #12
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaqueezy View Post
    Looks like the steering is 5x8 so Iíll probably wait until I upgrade to one to aluminum as I assume they come with 5x11 size. I didnít change out the one that the motor goes through to grab the pinion gear, it looks to be 5x11 bushing though. I havenít taken all that apart just took the cover off the side to see the two gears, and only saw one bushing that the motor rod goes through

    My steering trim is constantly getting thrown off, so Iím eager to start putting in aluminum steering parts like caster blocks and steering blocks. Is there anything else that would help keep my steering from constantly needing trim to be re adjusted?
    If constantly adjusting steering trim servo horn may be slipping teeth.

    Of the servo save thing is slipping

    I put a different steering assembly on my rustler from the 4x4 version may also be on the stampede. Much better that the spring gear saver the stock 2x4 rustler comes with.

    It uses a servo saver type like all the other larger cars.


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