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  1. #1
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Potential UDR owner questions (sometime, someday lol)

    So, I want a UDR really bad. It won't be for a while, I have to get through high school first, but i'm considering my options

    Build one from scratch; Fun, my first build, but I'm worried that I'll forget/under/overtighten something, and then I just have as many issues as I do with my poor Sl4$h. Will it be more or less expensive than buying a new one/roller+esc&motor?

    Build one from roller; Get a roller *Rolleh rolleh rolleh rolleh* and put a smaller motor and ESC in it. I don't need 50mph in a scale truck, that's 375 mph for a real truck... No thanks... XD My price range for the motor +ESC will be between $100-160... Is that good for 30-40 MPH in a UDR? P.s running 2s 5k mah 25C lipo. I really want it to feel like a true trophy truck, so insane accelerate is not what I want; I want to be able to JUST barely break it loose on asphalt.

    Or just buy a new one and break it until it doesn't break anymore.
    The thing is, If I build it custom, I can skip the bad serv0+hexes+trailing arms+op motor

    If you guys have an aftermarket part that lasted for like more than a year, let me know so I can note it! I don't want to Kev it, but I do want to be able to have a truck that feels like the real thing.

    Speaking of Kev, he recommended a "Dirt cheap" but really good servo... anyone know which video that was in/which servo it is?


    Then again, I'm considering the SBR 2.0 as well, but I like the Traxxas batteries, is there a connector that goes from Traxxas connector to XT60 (or is it 90...)? I don't want to destroy either of them, plus JESUS, that is a BIG battery tray...
    Last edited by SpeedieGonzales; 11-23-2020 at 10:18 AM.
    Florida Man cares not from whence the speed comes

  2. #2
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    I like where you're going with this, as I am personally a fan of scale performance. I also like weird ideas because if it's your money getting spent, you should get to do whatever you like. But I see a few problems with what you're thinking.

    The UDR is a heavy truck. Similar to an 1/8 scale truggy in weight. A 1/10 system on 2S would really struggle to power this thing, and it would probably end up eating motors and ESCs. And that would happen just with stock weight. Once you add some aluminum upgrades, you're going to be even heavier. I don't see a 1/10 system breaking the tires loose on pavement on 2S. Possibly on 3S, but the electronics will be overtaxed. I recommend at least an 1/8 scale truggy system, 1/8 buggy at the least on 3S.

    My stock truck has lasted for about a year, with no real breakages to stock parts. I run mine carefully 4S. Speaking of which, the Lectron Pro batteries I run come with an XT90 soldered on and include a TRX adapter.

    If you can find a roller, it'd be a score and fun to build up. Building from scratch would probably turn out to be far more expensive than picking up a roller.

    I'd like to see how what you build turns out. Sounds like a fun project.

  3. #3
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    Mine has been pretty unreliable and as of now I am waiting for some JB weld to dry so I can get some screws out.

    Personally I think the udr is cool but unless you want to spend an extra 800$ dollars in parts I would go with the sbr

  4. #4
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    I like where you're going with this, as I am personally a fan of scale performance. I also like weird ideas because if it's your money getting spent, you should get to do whatever you like. But I see a few problems with what you're thinking.

    The UDR is a heavy truck. Similar to an 1/8 scale truggy in weight. A 1/10 system on 2S would really struggle to power this thing, and it would probably end up eating motors and ESCs. And that would happen just with stock weight. Once you add some aluminum upgrades, you're going to be even heavier. I don't see a 1/10 system breaking the tires loose on pavement on 2S. Possibly on 3S, but the electronics will be overtaxed. I recommend at least an 1/8 scale truggy system, 1/8 buggy at the least on 3S.

    My stock truck has lasted for about a year, with no real breakages to stock parts. I run mine carefully 4S. Speaking of which, the Lectron Pro batteries I run come with an XT90 soldered on and include a TRX adapter.

    If you can find a roller, it'd be a score and fun to build up. Building from scratch would probably turn out to be far more expensive than picking up a roller.

    I'd like to see how what you build turns out. Sounds like a fun project.
    ^ Completely agree with Fallen.

    I would first save up for a roller if possible (everything except the electronics), and then two 2s LiPos (the Amazon ones are two for $40 or something like that, but I have never tried them). It's best to use two of the same LiPos (same brand, age, specs, etc) so the LVD is accurate (takes the avg of the two batteries). You can also get one used, but make sure you know what you are getting.

    For the ESC and motor, I think the Hobbywing Max 8 Combo will be the best for your application (cheapest 1/8 combo I could find): https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...010402/p971794

    The SBR 2.0 looks to be much better than the V1, but I still think the UDR is more realistic in terms of looks and handling. The SBR 2.0 has a more traditional tub-chassis-like design with a roll cage over it, while the UDR has a tube-frame chassis. The SBR 2.0 has 4 shocks, while the UDR has 8, so they are still really different. It all comes down to the handling characteristics you want. In terms of quality control, the SBR 2.0 might have issues. I have seen many people on YouTube get their car with the decals applied poorly. Other than that, they both seem to be pretty good vehicles.

    I've had my UDR for nearly a year, and as far as I can tell, I can't really see any issues with it other than the servo (and maybe the rear trailing arms). I never really drive aggressively or jump my cars, so my "durability test" won't be very accurate. In terms of upgrades, my UDR is still bone stock other than a few extra stickers on the body (nothing broken so far), but I plan on changing the servo and getting a rear diff soon. You might also want to sand down the edges of the body with some fine-grit sandpaper since they are a little rough.

    Hope this helped!
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  5. #5
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Wow! Thanks guys! Ok yeah, I was looking at parts, with just the ESC you recommended, it'll be well over $800 If i do it from scratch. Probably near 1k for the stock truck. Yeeaaahhhh no. I wish we had UDR kit I'm going to be jumping curbs and stuff like a lunatic, so probably need turnbuckles, A-arms, servo and trailing arms. Not bashing like the slash (I need to stop busting bearings ****) but still kinda rough, like hopping a monster truck up a wall over and over... Also my parents are already getting mad with the Sl4$h hanging out in the gallery XD I don't think they would be happy with a 1/7th truck... (or 6 or whatever it is) I think they might already be mad when they realize EXACTLY how big the UDR is, let alone if I got an SBR. And yeah... Ig I'll start looking for a roller, though I'll have to wait until I finish high school (3 1/2 years) so yeeeeee
    Florida Man cares not from whence the speed comes

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    I like where you're going with this, as I am personally a fan of scale performance. I also like weird ideas because if it's your money getting spent, you should get to do whatever you like. But I see a few problems with what you're thinking.

    The UDR is a heavy truck. Similar to an 1/8 scale truggy in weight. A 1/10 system on 2S would really struggle to power this thing, and it would probably end up eating motors and ESCs. And that would happen just with stock weight. Once you add some aluminum upgrades, you're going to be even heavier. I don't see a 1/10 system breaking the tires loose on pavement on 2S. Possibly on 3S, but the electronics will be overtaxed. I recommend at least an 1/8 scale truggy system, 1/8 buggy at the least on 3S.

    My stock truck has lasted for about a year, with no real breakages to stock parts. I run mine carefully 4S. Speaking of which, the Lectron Pro batteries I run come with an XT90 soldered on and include a TRX adapter.

    If you can find a roller, it'd be a score and fun to build up. Building from scratch would probably turn out to be far more expensive than picking up a roller.

    I'd like to see how what you build turns out. Sounds like a fun project.
    4S on sport mode hurts your truck. 6S kills your truck


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedieGonzales View Post
    Wow! Thanks guys! Ok yeah, I was looking at parts, with just the ESC you recommended, it'll be well over $800 If i do it from scratch. Probably near 1k for the stock truck. Yeeaaahhhh no. I wish we had UDR kit I'm going to be jumping curbs and stuff like a lunatic, so probably need turnbuckles, A-arms, servo and trailing arms. Not bashing like the slash (I need to stop busting bearings ****) but still kinda rough, like hopping a monster truck up a wall over and over... Also my parents are already getting mad with the Sl4$h hanging out in the gallery XD I don't think they would be happy with a 1/7th truck... (or 6 or whatever it is) I think they might already be mad when they realize EXACTLY how big the UDR is, let alone if I got an SBR. And yeah... Ig I'll start looking for a roller, though I'll have to wait until I finish high school (3 1/2 years) so yeeeeee
    You donít have the budget for this. Start with a Slash and see your money disappear. At least you have a better chance of finishing the project. Youíd be 1/10th into a UDR and be filing for bankruptcy and welfare
    Sorry - but a kid right out of high school canít afford much of anything. It was that way for me. I had a good 5-10 years before I had a budget for this hobby. AND ITS EXPENSIVE!!!
    Think about your future employment first. Unless you donít have to...


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  8. #8
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbestfromclovis View Post
    You don’t have the budget for this. Start with a Slash and see your money disappear. At least you have a better chance of finishing the project. You’d be 1/10th into a UDR and be filing for bankruptcy and welfare
    Sorry - but a kid right out of high school can’t afford much of anything. It was that way for me. I had a good 5-10 years before I had a budget for this hobby. AND ITS EXPENSIVE!!!
    Think about your future employment first. Unless you don’t have to...


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    I did lol, and it's tough enough for me now... after like another 500$, not including one Reaktor motor that was an absolute waste. so more like 600$ plus another 700$ for batts, charger and truck. also considering I'm straight-A student, my parents don't rlly mind, even though we're not rlly wealthy, per se... Like I said, I intend to run it scale speed, not like my slash *slams into the ground nose first at 30 mph* Also, can I run 2s in the UDR? do I just need a ton of spacers for battery or a different ESC as well? Will the motor draw more power than it has available (killing batt or esc)? It seems like I can, but I'd like to hear it straight lol Also it's good that the truck itself is only 700 and I already have charger+1 (2s) battery. (I assume I can't run a lipo+ a NiMh?)
    Florida Man cares not from whence the speed comes

  9. #9
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedieGonzales View Post
    I did lol, and it's tough enough for me now... after like another 500$, not including one Reaktor motor that was an absolute waste. so more like 600$ plus another 700$ for batts, charger and truck. also considering I'm straight-A student, my parents don't rlly mind, even though we're not rlly wealthy, per se... Like I said, I intend to run it scale speed, not like my slash *slams into the ground nose first at 30 mph* Also, can I run 2s in the UDR? do I just need a ton of spacers for battery or a different ESC as well? Will the motor draw more power than it has available (killing batt or esc)? It seems like I can, but I'd like to hear it straight lol Also it's good that the truck itself is only 700 and I already have charger+1 (2s) battery. (I assume I can't run a lipo+ a NiMh?)
    2s in the UDR... I'd say maybe, maybe not. The UDR is very heavy (I would say at least 2 times as heavy as the Slash 4x4). It really depends on the motor, ESC, and battery specs if it's going to work or not. If you do run on 2s, you would probably have to gear it down really low. The lowest gearing that fits is 23/55, and it'd probably still have very slow acceleration. Braking could be a problem, so it's probably best to get at least an 8th scale system.

    For the batteries, you can't run a LiPo and NiMH together (voltage difference, capacity difference, NiMH batteries will trigger the LVD). If you are going to run dual batteries, it's best to have them (almost) identical (same brand, age, capacity, etc), since sometimes the battery cells can differ in voltage and the ESC LVD takes the average voltage of the two batteries.

    In terms of budget, you can sell on eBay (seriously, I'm actually not joking). I tried doing it in March, and I was able to make a fair amount of money selling the car charger that came with my Slash, textbooks, books, RC car parts that are taken off after upgrading, and other random stuff (that my family don't mind me selling, and are in newish condition) I can find around the house. At one point, I've managed to save up to $900 (nearly $1000), but I spent some (most) on a used Slash 4x4, and a brushless system for it, and now it's down to $400 .

    Hopefully this was helpful!
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  10. #10
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    2s in the UDR... I'd say maybe, maybe not. The UDR is very heavy (I would say at least 2 times as heavy as the Slash 4x4). It really depends on the motor, ESC, and battery specs if it's going to work or not. If you do run on 2s, you would probably have to gear it down really low. The lowest gearing that fits is 23/55, and it'd probably still have very slow acceleration. Braking could be a problem, so it's probably best to get at least an 8th scale system.

    For the batteries, you can't run a LiPo and NiMH together (voltage difference, capacity difference, NiMH batteries will trigger the LVD). If you are going to run dual batteries, it's best to have them (almost) identical (same brand, age, capacity, etc), since sometimes the battery cells can differ in voltage and the ESC LVD takes the average voltage of the two batteries.

    In terms of budget, you can sell on eBay (seriously, I'm actually not joking). I tried doing it in March, and I was able to make a fair amount of money selling the car charger that came with my Slash, textbooks, books, RC car parts that are taken off after upgrading, and other random stuff (that my family don't mind me selling, and are in newish condition) I can find around the house. At one point, I've managed to save up to $900 (nearly $1000), but I spent some (most) on a used Slash 4x4, and a brushless system for it, and now it's down to $400 .

    Hopefully this was helpful!
    Yeah, thanks I want low accel, lol, I don't want anything close to a wheelie. Didn't think about braking, considering the motor stopping is the brake... Ig it has to be a 1/8th system on 2s or 3s. Thanks!
    Florida Man cares not from whence the speed comes

  11. #11
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    I picked up a UDR about a 6 weeks ago. Been loving so far on 6S - the trailing arms are weak but the rest has been strong (so far). I don't bash it very hard, I enjoy the scale driving, drifting, and kicking up rooster tails! Out of the box the electronics are fine. The 2075x servo is a bit weak but it does the job just fine. I've been waiting for mine to die to upgrade it, but it still keeps going. I've been really impressed with the Traxxas TSM as well, this is my first RC with it. IMO, the vehicle wouldn't be very enjoyable without it, at least for me. For this reason, it's the only vehicle I own that's NOT using a Spektrum receiver.

    Another thing to consider is the runtime. I run mine on 2x 3s 5200mah lipos and typically get 5-7 minutes before the low voltage cut-off kicks in. Using one of the same batteries in my Slash 4x4 gets me about 20 minutes run time. The UDR is a blast to drive, but if you're looking for something you can drive non-stop on a nice day, the UDR isn't it. Even if you had the batteries and chargers to keep it going, it gets pretty hot after each run and needs a few minutes to cool off. I'm running all stock gearing and electronics...

    On the UDR vs SBR 2.0 - one thing I've really grown to appreciate about Traxxas is the fact they almost never kill off a car model. I've got a lot of cars on the shelf I can't really drive anymore because the manufacturer stopped making parts for it or the vehicle is out of the production and the parts are slowly drying up. A short list off the top of my head includes the Axial AX-10, Axial XR-10, Ofna LX2E, Ofna GTP2e, Thunder Tiger MT4-G3, Associated SC-10, Associated SC-10b, Associated RC-10t, Associated RC-10b3, and the Pro-Line Pro-2. I've kind of become committed to Traxxas for this reason - anything I buy from Traxxas today I can still be driving in 5, 10, 15, 20 years.

  12. #12
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMNixon74 View Post
    I picked up a UDR about a 6 weeks ago. Been loving so far on 6S - the trailing arms are weak but the rest has been strong (so far). I don't bash it very hard, I enjoy the scale driving, drifting, and kicking up rooster tails! Out of the box the electronics are fine. The 2075x servo is a bit weak but it does the job just fine. I've been waiting for mine to die to upgrade it, but it still keeps going. I've been really impressed with the Traxxas TSM as well, this is my first RC with it. IMO, the vehicle wouldn't be very enjoyable without it, at least for me. For this reason, it's the only vehicle I own that's NOT using a Spektrum receiver.

    Another thing to consider is the runtime. I run mine on 2x 3s 5200mah lipos and typically get 5-7 minutes before the low voltage cut-off kicks in. Using one of the same batteries in my Slash 4x4 gets me about 20 minutes run time. The UDR is a blast to drive, but if you're looking for something you can drive non-stop on a nice day, the UDR isn't it. Even if you had the batteries and chargers to keep it going, it gets pretty hot after each run and needs a few minutes to cool off. I'm running all stock gearing and electronics...

    On the UDR vs SBR 2.0 - one thing I've really grown to appreciate about Traxxas is the fact they almost never kill off a car model. I've got a lot of cars on the shelf I can't really drive anymore because the manufacturer stopped making parts for it or the vehicle is out of the production and the parts are slowly drying up. A short list off the top of my head includes the Axial AX-10, Axial XR-10, Ofna LX2E, Ofna GTP2e, Thunder Tiger MT4-G3, Associated SC-10, Associated SC-10b, Associated RC-10t, Associated RC-10b3, and the Pro-Line Pro-2. I've kind of become committed to Traxxas for this reason - anything I buy from Traxxas today I can still be driving in 5, 10, 15, 20 years.
    Welcome to the forums and I didn't consider run time... welp, I'm going to need some batteries.. prob going to just do 4s with 2x 2s 7400 mah batts. Dang, I was hoping to run this at minimum power, guess that's not gonna happen. I haven't hit my Slash servo too many times, the biggest hit is probably when I broke front a-arm, and some forgettable bad landings and that's it. IMO TSM is basically only for deep, loose sand, (Like in our FL beaches) I love drifting and I can control it well especially in a 4wd, so not a big thing for me. Also, Sl4$h Gang!

    *ax-10 sounds cool, what is it* Wait, how do you break a rock crawler other than killing motors and bearing wear?! (and maybe servo as well)
    Last edited by SpeedieGonzales; 12-03-2020 at 11:03 AM.
    Florida Man cares not from whence the speed comes

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedieGonzales View Post
    *ax-10 sounds cool, what is it* Wait, how do you break a rock crawler other than killing motors and bearing wear?! (and maybe servo as well)
    I went all Kev Talbot on it one day and put in a 1/8 brushless system on 4S. I wanted to see if it could hydroplane - it's couldn't...

  14. #14
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMNixon74 View Post
    I went all Kev Talbot on it one day and put in a 1/8 brushless system on 4S. I wanted to see if it could hydroplane - it's couldn't...
    *ahem* Hydroplane? Slash style? No. just, no. XD Also, I like how I ask about the single one that has a !1/8th! system in it XD What about the others? Are they on steroids as well?
    Florida Man cares not from whence the speed comes

  15. #15
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    I just built a UDR with all the spare parts I had. Keep it simple. Upgrade the trailing arms with the RPM ones, they're good!! Upgrade all of the turnbuckle and with the GPM stainless, they're solid!! I also use the GPM away brace kit ( it just looks cool) I bought some HobbyStar HCS-4521WP servos as back ups, 380oz of torque and for the $. It's a decent servo. Get the HB aluminum front center shaft. Don't waste your money on all of the aluminum parts they make for this truck. In my opinion it's a waste of $ that you can use to upgrade something else. They're made of plastic for a reason, so everything flexes as a unit. All of the parts I listed are very affordable and my UDR's don't break. Stick with the power system that comes with the truck. I haven't had a single issue with it. Run it on 6s and put it in sport mode, my 5 yr old grandson drives mine in sport mode at all times and if you want to get crazy put it in race mode.

  16. #16
    RC Racer EclipseMantis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by worthing3104 View Post
    I just built a UDR with all the spare parts I had. Keep it simple. Upgrade the trailing arms with the RPM ones, they're good!! Upgrade all of the turnbuckle and with the GPM stainless, they're solid!! I also use the GPM away brace kit ( it just looks cool) I bought some HobbyStar HCS-4521WP servos as back ups, 380oz of torque and for the $. It's a decent servo. Get the HB aluminum front center shaft. Don't waste your money on all of the aluminum parts they make for this truck. In my opinion it's a waste of $ that you can use to upgrade something else. They're made of plastic for a reason, so everything flexes as a unit. All of the parts I listed are very affordable and my UDR's don't break. Stick with the power system that comes with the truck. I haven't had a single issue with it. Run it on 6s and put it in sport mode, my 5 yr old grandson drives mine in sport mode at all times and if you want to get crazy put it in race mode.
    Sport mode and race mode give you the same speed/acceleration, race mode just doesn't have reverse.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by EclipseMantis View Post
    Sport mode and race mode give you the same speed/acceleration, race mode just doesn't have reverse.
    My bad. Run it in training mode and when you want to haul ***, sport or race mode. Better?

  18. #18
    RC Racer EclipseMantis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by worthing3104 View Post
    My bad. Run it in training mode and when you want to haul ***, sport or race mode. Better?
    Sorry, I wasn't trying to come across as rude.
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  19. #19
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by worthing3104 View Post
    I just built a UDR with all the spare parts I had. Keep it simple. Upgrade the trailing arms with the RPM ones, they're good!! Upgrade all of the turnbuckle and with the GPM stainless, they're solid!! I also use the GPM away brace kit ( it just looks cool) I bought some HobbyStar HCS-4521WP servos as back ups, 380oz of torque and for the $. It's a decent servo. Get the HB aluminum front center shaft. Don't waste your money on all of the aluminum parts they make for this truck. In my opinion it's a waste of $ that you can use to upgrade something else. They're made of plastic for a reason, so everything flexes as a unit. All of the parts I listed are very affordable and my UDR's don't break. Stick with the power system that comes with the truck. I haven't had a single issue with it. Run it on 6s and put it in sport mode, my 5 yr old grandson drives mine in sport mode at all times and if you want to get crazy put it in race mode.
    Thanks! I'll save this so I don't forget Also ye, I probably will leave it in training mode, though, on my slash, I get less power for identical runtime... is it just me? I didn't do a hard, scientific test with the lipo, only the nimh. Is it just me, or is something going on here?
    Florida Man cares not from whence the speed comes

  20. #20
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EclipseMantis View Post
    Sorry, I wasn't trying to come across as rude.
    Love both your PFP and sig lol... I love suspension for some reason, it's why I love the trophy trucks.
    Florida Man cares not from whence the speed comes

  21. #21
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    Just wanted to let you know that there is a UDR roller going for $500 on eBay. It does not come with a body, tires, or electronics (definitely way over the MSRP of the truck itself if the cost of everything is accounted for, but just an FYI if you were looking for this):
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-UDR...gAAOSww95f5swB
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  22. #22
    RC Racer SpeedieGonzales's Avatar
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    It'll be a while, so no not yet. But thanks
    Florida Man cares not from whence the speed comes

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