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  1. #1
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    Broken rear A arm mount

    Happy Thanksgiving folks! Iím pretty new to the hobby so bear with me please. I have a brushed stock Rustler running on 2S Lipo. I did add a wheelie bar. Yesterday I clipped the neighbors mailbox with the right rear tire and broke the A arm mount off the gearbox. I found a video showing how to replace the gearbox halves. Looks a little time consuming but not to technical. Is there anything I need to keep in mind while doing this? Also while I have it apart what would you recommend as upgrades for general bashing. I donít have a track near me so itís mostly pavement driving with some time in the grass but not much.
    Also I was considering upgrading this machine to brushless with the Vilenion system. I canít decide if it makes sense to spend the money upgrading this one or put a little more with it and buy a brushless Slash. I like the look of the Slash and like the idea of having two machines.
    Thanks for the help folks!

  2. #2
    Make sure that your wrists are ready to go because they will surely be tired out after you do this. As far as upgrades go, you really don't need any until you start putting extreme power into these things. My brushless 2wd stampede has only ever stripped the spur gear (the only plastic gear on the truck) but the transmission is still going strong after nearly 2.5 years of running on 3s lipo. Make sure you also set your slipper clutch correctly when you take the spur off. If you go brushless, this is a crucial thing to get correct. You will know when it is set right when you accelerate hard and your tires don't slip but it also gets up to speed quickly. This is hard to explain, but it will be pretty obvious when it is too loose or too tight because it will feel a little different to drive than before. As far as going brushless goes, there are alternatives to the velineon that are cheaper but also have more tuning options. I run the castle sidwinder 4 SCT edition, which comes with a 3800kv motor. You will need to know how to solder if you go this route though.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  3. #3
    If you don't know how to solder or want something cheaper that is still really good, then here is something:
    https://www.horizonhobby.com/product.../ONXS0501.html

    I had this system in my stampede (back then, it was called the kinexsis, but now it is rebranded by onyx) for a while and that thing has big heavy tires, so I would imaging that it would do very well in a rustler with small light tires. Just watch you motor temps if you run 3s lipo on it.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the replies guys! One more question I can’t seem to find an answer to. Are there any other bodies from Traxxas or aftermarket that will fit directly onto the Rustler? You guys are much nicer than the guys at my local hobby shop so I thought I’d ask here first. Thanks again for the help

  5. #5
    Your welcome! That is what I am here for, answering questions. Here is a link to jconcepts website. Keep in mind the fact that these bodies are untrimmed and unpainted, so you will need body scissors and polycarbonate paint. One of the biggest mistakes people make while painting bodies is that they use just some paint that they have lying around the house and when they go to run it, it just cracks off. Unfortunately, there are not really any pre-painted bodies for the rustler other than the stock body shape. You should be able to get testors pactra paint from your hobby shop. This is the paint that I used for my first body shell and it is pretty good stuff.
    https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/bodie...-scale/traxxas
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  6. #6
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    I broke one of the rear arm mounts in my rustler a while back doing jumps at a skate park. It's not hard to replace, just time consuming. As far as the brushless upgrade goes, I recently switched mine over to the valineon system. It's quite a bit faster, but it does put more stress on the transmission and drive components. I know the system is pricey, but you won't have to worry about replacing motors. Between my Rustler and my partner's identical rustler, I spent close to $200 on brushed motors in the last year or so. The Titan motors are meant to be disposable and they will wear out after a while. The valineon motors last a lot longer and are rebuildable. I think a rebuild kit runs around $15. It's just a matter of spending a lot of money now, or spending money on motors spread out over several months. If you go brushless, I'd advise picking up some steel driveshafts. I usually don't trust Integy parts, but they do have a driveshaft set for the Rustler/Stampede that runs about $20 and works pretty well. Traxxas makes one as well, but it's considerably more expensive, around $70. As far as general bashing upgrades go, I'd say getting some upgraded caster blocks and front bearing carriers would be a good investment. RPM makes good ones that are pretty cheap, and are warrantied. If you want aluminum, GPM parts are good, you just have to watch the mounting hardware and screws because it's all aluminum and they bend easily. You can also upgrade your wheel bushings to bearings pretty cheap, and it makes a huge difference in your speed and is easier on your transmission (less friction). You can get the bearings just about anywhere and they're pretty cheap and easy to replace. An aftermarket bumper and bulkhead would be another decent upgrade to keep from damaging your steering components in frontal collisions.
    I don't have any input on the body. Mine is beat to heck because I do a lot of heavy off-road bashing. I haven't replaced it simply because I know a new one will just suffer the same fate, but when I do replace it I'll just stick with stock bodies.
    Hope all that helped! Have fun and don't be afraid to break stuff. That's why they make parts!!

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by KennethMiller19 View Post
    As far as the brushless upgrade goes, I recently switched mine over to the valineon system. It's quite a bit faster, but it does put more stress on the transmission and drive components. I know the system is pricey, but you won't have to worry about replacing motors.
    The velineon system my have good performance and may be tough, but they lack many tuning options that the castle and onyx systems have. There really is no reason to spend $165 on a system that is proprietary and has the same or less options available for tuning.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  8. #8
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    Ahhh, I remember the first time I dug into the tranny of these vehicles. They're really quite simple, but I understand that the process can seem like a lot at first. Just take your time. Make sure you take note of which screws go where, as some may be longer than others. Most important of all, enjoy working on your truck. For me, maintenance/upgrading/rebuilding was always a big part of the fun with this hobby.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the help guys. I got it apart and back together except for the axle on the left side. I’m having trouble lining the holes up to put the screw back in. I got frustrated and put it away. I’m going to try again today. Any advice?

  10. #10
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    I’m still having trouble lining the hole on the driveshaft with the hole on the diff output to reinstall the pin/screw. I can’t seem to get the yolk pushed far enough into the diff shaft to perfectly align the holes. Any suggestions?

  11. #11
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    Is your diff installed correctly? Tranny case fully closed?
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  12. #12
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    Did you put a Teflon washer inside the trans case?
    I’ve had this problem before and as I recall I had to take the case apart and take out the washer.
    I just couldn’t get that pin to go in the shaft, so close but not quite... Am I right?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fortunespoonz View Post
    Did you put a Teflon washer inside the trans case?
    Iíve had this problem before and as I recall I had to take the case apart and take out the washer.
    I just couldnít get that pin to go in the shaft, so close but not quite... Am I right?
    This was another thought I had after making my above post.

    Perhaps the lack of a post in a couple days means it's fixed!?
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by fortunespoonz View Post
    Did you put a Teflon washer inside the trans case?
    I’ve had this problem before and as I recall I had to take the case apart and take out the washer.
    I just couldn’t get that pin to go in the shaft, so close but not quite... Am I right?
    That’s what happened. The video I watched told me to put the washer back. I did and couldn’t get it to line up. Just like you said, close but not close enough. Took the washer out and it went back together fine and runs perfectly. Thanks for the help

  15. #15
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    Glad you're rolling again. I'm sure most all of us have done that at one point or another!
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    Glad you're rolling again. I'm sure most all of us have done that at one point or another!
    Yep. It definitely seems like you should use Teflon washers in there.
    On the bench, it seems sloppy and tighter is better right...? But no...
    That extra ďslopĒ gets taken up by the axles, thus leaving the proper clearance internally.

    Took the washer out and it went back together fine and runs perfectly. Thanks for the help
    No problem.

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