Hello, as the title states, this thread will be about my Slash 4x4, and it's basically going to be a documentation of the upgrades and other stuff it has. I already have started multiple threads about it, but I think it would make more sense to combine everything together and have it together as a complete documentation about it.
It all started with this thread (all the details of how and where I got my Slash 4x4): https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...Get-Another-RC
Highlights from it:
- Came like this:
- Added LCG chassis kit + XL5 and 12T Titan 550 (12/54 gearing, bl diffs) + FS GT5 Radio:
I then decided to upgrade the suspension (rear GTR shocks all around): https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...hocks-on-front
Highlights from it:
- rear GTR shocks on front
- TEN SCTE springs (red front, orange rear)
- Added rock on front as a weight
The car originally did not come with a body, so I started a thread about body ideas (never came around to get the body, lol, it's still bodyless now): https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...g-a-New-Body-D
In addition to that:
- added suspension arm guards from the Stampede 4x4
(trimmed the rear
Fast forward to now:
- New Hobbywing XR8 3660 4300kv combo (originally decided to get it next year, but Amain convinced me to get it at their Black Friday price at $140 instead of $184)
- New pinion gears (5mm shaft ones in 13, 14, 15, 16, 17T). They aren’t really good quality ($10 for all the gears shipping included so it’s expected), but I will probably first test out the best gearing, and then get a better quality pinion.
- Thinking about swapping out the center diff (plastic older version) currently installed back to the slipper it came with. I would prefer to keep it in, but I have heard of other people having the center diff explode in high power conditions. In the future, I may upgrade to the Hot Racing aluminum center diff housing or get the newer center diff (whichever one’s better?).
- Driveshafts: the stock plastic shafts seem to be a major problem, but I will see if that becomes a big problem for me. If it does, I am leaning towards the Tekno M6 CVDs (I am aware the aluminum steering blocks and rear axle carrier won’t work with them).
- Tires: Will be staying stock for now. May go with 2.2/3.0 Trenchers, or some other SCT sized tire.
- Still plan on running on 2s (ESC can take all the way up to 4s, but that's probably too insane for me).
That’s about it for now (probably won’t have time to work on the car at least until Friday afternoon, but will keep you guys updated). (also, I wrote this over the course of 3 days, which is why this first post is very long)
Last edited by RCWilly; 12-01-2020 at 07:16 PM.
Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.
Glad to see your first upgrade was to get rid of that icky-icky HCG chassis...lol. Other than that, it airways to be coming together nicely.
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Looks great so far!
What’s your end goal for it?
Have fun!![]()
Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein
Yes, HCG chassis flip just a bit too easily and doesn't really corner well. It does have good ground clearance though, but the LCG chassis makes the car handle way better in the corners.
End goal... race-inspired basher? (does that make sense lol)
Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.
DEFINITELY makes sense. That's exactly what I did with my first Rusty 4x4, converting it into a "true" stadium truck (although, I will admit that it's preparing to go through another "revision"...or, should I say, another "reimagining"). And, it's what I'm 75% of the way doing with my other Rusty 4x4, converting it into a suedo 'E-buggy Lite'. As for my Sl4sh pre-roller, a couple upgrades were done, and one for parts for other upgrades, but I'm not causing what, exactly, I want to do with it...besides, I'm also working on two other land vehicles, plus a few boats.
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~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better
Nice!
More updates on the Slash:
The connectors came, and I have attempted to solder it with a 25W iron (needs 40W minimum lol). Took me way too long on that (tried for nearly an hour), and it didn't work. I half expected that, but I don't know why I even attempted
. Welp, I guess I have to take a trip to Home Depot to get a 40W iron
.
Here's a pic (more will be coming soon):
![]()
Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.
I got this one on Amazon and have had no problems soldering battery and ESC connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP80NU...7132050&sr=8-6
Let the fun begin!![]()
Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein
I use one like this...works great!
https://www.amazon.com/PPSK-Automoti...s%2C185&sr=8-7
Other options:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=butane+so...ss_ts-a-p_4_13
Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
Rustler vxl
Ford GT vxl
You have my attention! I am looking forward to seeing you put in work![]()
Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!
Thanks, guys! I ended up with a 60W iron. My soldering job doesn't look great but it works
Thanks!
Here are the pics, still have to sort out the wiring and stuff (relocated the receiver box to the front):
Close up of the wires and ESC (I will probably get a plastic sheet screwed down on the chassis as an ESC mount):
Just calibrated the ESC and gave it a test run. It's very smooth and a little bit fast (the cheap pinion gear is a bit noisy but will change that in the future). Maybe almost too fast imo (lol). I will probably gear it back down to 12 or 11 (running the 13T currently).
More stuff is to come!![]()
Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.
No problem! Having an esc plate makes it WAY easier when you have to change out the chassis because I always am fighting the servo tape to get the esc off. And you can then reuse the servo tape instead of throwing it away every time you need to remove the esc from the truck. If you run castle systems, you can get the RPM esc cage though, which is something I will probably get for my stampede for extra security.
Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?
At one time, I used an ESC mounting plate and hook & loop to keep my ESC in place...
Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein
Similar to what I'm doing in my Rusty-Frankie rebuild...except that, instead of using plastic front a CD case, I cut an almost-square piece of 2mm carbon fiber sheet.
When Rusty-Frankie got damaged (oh, did it get DAMAGED), the plastic ESC mounting plate snapped (I only recently discovered this, when I started partially-disassembling the vehicle). I glued it back together with some CA...but, just in case my "fix" doesn't last, I wanted to have a 'replacement' ready to be installed. First, I placed making tape on both sides. Then, to using a Sharpie, I marked the drilling locations for the screw holes. Since button-head screws would used, there's no need to countersink the holes (I'll place M3 washers between the plate & screws).
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better
You've provided plenty info to help people over the years...some of which has helped me over the past 2+ years. Although I was out of RC cars/trucks for 35+ years, I'm catching up fast. Plus, I'm pretty good at "figuring things out"...after all, I've also been custom-building computers for people for 25+ years.
While we're all into RC to "have fun", we're here in the various forums to help others, to learn from others, and to pass along info on things we've tried (whether they worked, or not). As has been said for hundreds (maybe thousands) of years, "We learn the most from our mistakes, not from doing things right."
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better