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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    For me, I use marine grease and coat where the diff cover mates to bulk housing to make a seal. Yet to see water come in. On the slipper gear area to center diff I do the same thing and just slap on excessive amounts of grease. but no way to keep water out of this area. Dirt and grit can get in here to center driveline and in the gaps from skid plates to bulk heads. I shoe good these areas. On skid plates. Area behind slipper no way to keep grit out without body mesh cover. No way to keep water out.

    When I hose off I position car to multiple angle over a course of a few hours so water can drain out. The thick grease keeps water out as much as possible


    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

    Thank you I see where the openings are by the diffs . Thanks for the marine grease idea.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    Thank you I see where the openings are by the diffs . Thanks for the marine grease idea.
    No worries. I warped a driveline and noticed a lot of debris inside the driveline area so went looking for how little rocks and junk got in.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  3. #43
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    Well it is Xmas. Happy Xmass to all and God Bless America.

    Here is an update. I decided to paint one of my clear bodies to match the Proline one. I had several cans of paint laying around so it was only the price of the body. I made some mistakes but next time it will come out better.

    Let me know what you guys think of the 2nd Xmaxx 8s build. This body will be for the black and blue traxxas Xmaxx.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by TundraLu; 12-25-2020 at 12:41 AM.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    Well it is Xmas. Happy Xmass to all and God Bless America.

    Here is an update. I decided to paint one of my clear bodies to match the Proline one. I had several cans of paint laying around so it was only the price of the body. I made some mistakes but next time it will come out better.

    Let me know what you guys think of the 2nd Xmaxx 8s build. This body will be for the black and blue traxxas Xmaxx.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    Excellent work, love the look of this body, and of course, this red in fire suspension colour.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    I use a JX 46 kg servo, with a Traxxas 7749 adapter, even though you can use the GPM aluminum servo adapter if you can, a lot of mates in the forum use the PROMODELER servo, with adapter too, is the best overall, I left you the links.]


    I was researching the JX servo and it looks like alot of people strip the metal gears because the metal is cheap. Have you had that problem?

    Thanks for all your help Juan

  6. #46
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    I just finished dying the Proline rings to blue as the white looks ugly and swapped out 160 rusty bolts to stainless. That rust appeared after washing them one time.

    Here are some before and after pics.

    Enjoy

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    I just finished dying the Proline rings to blue as the white looks ugly and swapped out 160 rusty bolts to stainless. That rust appeared after washing them one time.

    Here are some before and after pics.

    Enjoy

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    looks tight. Just did mine, took them apart, got all the water out, cleaned them up re-assembled still looks rusty and crappy. Puts mine to shame, but I am just a basher
    Last edited by Double G; 12-27-2020 at 06:23 AM. Reason: Language

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    looks tight. Just did mine, took them apart, got all the water out, cleaned them up re-assembled still looks rusty and crappy. Puts mine to shame, but I am just a basher
    This will be my bashing truck as well but i don't want rust on it. I want to pressure wash it and get the dirt/mud off easily and make my cleanup with less headache. I used to clean and spray WD40 on the rims of my other cars to try to minimize the rust issues. I know people say the stainless screws are softer than the black OEM ones but it is not a problem as I have soo many stainless screws I can easily replace what is needed.

    The screws were cheap on Amazon though so it was worth it . Heck I was rebuilding 2 trucks and now am building a 3rd since the 2nd one I bought gave me so many extra parts to start it. Cheers and thanks for replying.
    Last edited by Double G; 12-27-2020 at 06:24 AM.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    This will be my bashing truck as well but i don't want rust on it. I want to pressure wash it and get the dirt/mud off easily and make my cleanup with less headache. I used to clean and spray WD40 on the rims of my other cars to try to minimize the rust issues. I know people say the stainless screws are softer than the black OEM ones but it is not a problem as I have soo many stainless screws I can easily replace what is needed.

    The screws were cheap on Amazon though so it was worth it . Heck I was rebuilding 2 trucks and now am building a 3rd since the 2nd one I bought gave me so many extra parts to start it. Cheers and thanks for replying.
    Stainless on the wheels was a no brainer for
    Me. Iíve bent some other stainless around the arms and bumpers, but itís an easy swap. They just look so much better, I feel the same about rust.


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  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Stainless on the wheels was a no brainer for
    Me. Iíve bent some other stainless around the arms and bumpers, but itís an easy swap. They just look so much better, I feel the same about rust.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yeah man, I hate seeing rust on a 1k truck. Haha

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

    Man this body looks sweet. I am going to repaint another with red in it.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Double G; 12-27-2020 at 06:24 AM. Reason: Merge, clutter reduction

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    I was researching the JX servo and it looks like alot of people strip the metal gears because the metal is cheap. Have you had that problem?

    Thanks for all your help Juan
    At the moment, I haven't this issue, mine works fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    I just finished dying the Proline rings to blue as the white looks ugly and swapped out 160 rusty bolts to stainless. That rust appeared after washing them one time.

    Here are some before and after pics.

    Enjoy

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    This wheels looks nice, but is a crazy amount of screws, hahahaha.
    Last edited by Double G; 12-27-2020 at 06:25 AM. Reason: More clutter reduction

  12. #52
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    I got some more parts in. Just found a savox SG 2290 servo and ordered the Kx one Juan told me about.

    Here are some sleeves for the driveshaft cups I picked up to try out on 8s.

    Also got a Proline bashing body in as well. Went to buy a Max5 for a crazy deal and also picked up a Spectrum DX6r remote. This thing is nuts with a ton of features. Will definitely use it on one of my Xmaxxes.

    Happy New Year to all.



    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk


    Th is the Proline body on the 3rd build I am working on with extra parts I have.
    Last edited by TundraLu; 01-01-2021 at 01:13 AM.

  13. #53
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    Happiness is;
    Bashing 3 Xmaxx’s, one after another
    fabricator

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    I got some more parts in. Just found a savox SG 2290 servo and ordered the Kx one Juan told me about.

    Here are some sleeves for the driveshaft cups I picked up to try out on 8s.

    Also got a Proline bashing body in as well. Went to buy a Max5 for a crazy deal and also picked up a Spectrum DX6r remote. This thing is nuts with a ton of features. Will definitely use it on one of my Xmaxxes.

    Happy New Year to all.



    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk


    Th is the Proline body on the 3rd build I am working on with extra parts I have.
    I see you have the SKYRC GPS module, good brand and product.

  15. #55
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    I just bought a used Traxxas X-Maxx 6S and will be Rebuilding it

    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    These are the things I got off eBay and HobbyTown so far. I socred a good deal on the body with a coupon .



    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    Love this!! Thank you for the pics, did you have buy the new chassis pieces? Iím doing the same thing and I want to get whatever I need to make it legit 8s specs. Nice clean pics!!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Chevy1991; 01-01-2021 at 04:29 PM.

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    I just finished dying the Proline rings to blue as the white looks ugly and swapped out 160 rusty bolts to stainless. That rust appeared after washing them one time.

    Here are some before and after pics.

    Enjoy

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    i did the same thing to mine a few weeks back. did a wheel a night while sitting down and watching tv. i'm eventually doing the whole truck in stainless bolts and bearings. i have the carriers done in stainless bearings now. waiting on the bearings to do the rest.

    now i have to go through and find the sizes of all the bolts i will need.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevy1991 View Post
    Love this!! Thank you for the pics, did you have buy the new chassis pieces? Iím doing the same thing and I want to get whatever I need to make it legit 8s specs. Nice clean pics!!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Your Welcome and whatever questions you have please don't hesitate to ask. I have taken apart 2 used 6S and 1 8s and in the process of rebuilding all three of them. Yes you need the Rear Bulkhead Traxxas part # 7727x to accommodate the metal center diff that will take place of the plastic one. I just bought a couple extra chassis to have on hand but they are not needed for the 8S upgrade as yours will work fine. I figured extra so i can dye them black beforehand. To make a 6S to 8S it takes some money though. I have spent so much money just ordering on Ebay, Amain, Amazon, and my local hobby shops.

    My plan so far:

    1 xmaxx to use a HobbyWing Max 6 with stock motors 1275Kv or 1600Kv ?????
    1 Xmaxx to use with a Hobbywing Max 6 and the Hobbywing 1650Kv with with WFO mount and HR 50T spur and 18T pinion
    1 Xmaxx to use with a Hobbywing MAx5 and the 1100Kv combo with WFO mount and Mod 1.5 gears 30/25
    Last edited by TundraLu; 01-02-2021 at 02:48 AM.

  18. #58
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    Make sure to hit a 20 foot kicker flat out as soon as possible

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    Your Welcome and whatever questions you have please don't hesitate to ask. I have taken apart 2 used 6S and 1 8s and in the process of rebuilding all three of them. Yes you need the Rear Bulkhead Traxxas part # 7727x to accommodate the metal center diff that will take place of the plastic one. I just bought a couple extra chassis to have on hand but they are not needed for the 8S upgrade as yours will work fine. I figured extra so i can dye them black beforehand. To make a 6S to 8S it takes some money though. I have spent so much money just ordering on Ebay, Amain, Amazon, and my local hobby shops.

    My plan so far:

    1 xmaxx to use a HobbyWing Max 6 with stock motors 1275Kv or 1600Kv ?????
    1 Xmaxx to use with a Hobbywing Max 6 and the Hobbywing 1650Kv with with WFO mount and HR 50T spur and 18T pinion
    1 Xmaxx to use with a Hobbywing MAx5 and the 1100Kv combo with WFO mount and Mod 1.5 gears 30/25
    I think the third option is the best performance overall.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXMAXX View Post
    Happiness is;
    Bashing 3 Xmaxx’s, one after another
    Man I am addicted to the Xmaxx. I have like 4 Stampedes and 3 Slashes that I normally run. A friend let me drive his Xmaxx and I was hooked. I said ok let me buy one used since I would take it apart and upgrade it anyway. Sure enough started out and now have 3 I am in the process of building. They are awesome to work on and the upgrades can get crazy. So my vision is to build a normal pretty stock one and go from their to a crazy fast powerful build out .

    Now just waiting for some more parts.
    Last edited by TundraLu; 01-02-2021 at 08:54 PM.

  21. #61
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    I just bought a used Traxxas X-Maxx 6S and will be Rebuilding it

    My buddy just built a sick xmaxx with the max5 itís almost not drivable lol. I want to build the 6s I have into an 8s or get a new 8s truck.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Chevy1991; 01-02-2021 at 09:01 PM.

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevy1991 View Post
    M’y buddy just built a sick xmaxx with the max5 it’s almost not drivable lol. I want to build the 6s I have into an 8s or get a new 8s truck.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I have a Max5 with 800Kv and 1100Kv going into the crazy build . Yeah that is a sick combo. That is a big ESC compared to the Max5 will run 35/20 mod 1.5 gears
    Last edited by TundraLu; 01-02-2021 at 09:31 PM.

  23. #63
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    I just bought a used Traxxas X-Maxx 6S and will be Rebuilding it

    I believe he is running 25/35 for gearing Iím not exactly sure but he has some serious money in it..

    Here is what I have for a parts list for my 6s-8s build.. can anyone see if i am missing anything


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  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevy1991 View Post
    I believe he is running 25/35 for gearing I’m not exactly sure but he has some serious money in it..

    Here is what I have for a parts list for my 6s-8s build.. can anyone see if i am missing anything


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Chevy my main man. This is what I gathered so far. I will look it over and make sure it is complete. THese are mostly my Hobbytown prices local to me .


    Xmaxx 6s build to 8s

    Rear Bulkhead chassis Tra7728x 20.00
    Cush drive parts below and need 2 bearings size 6x13x5 BB
    Traxxas X-Maxx Transmission Cush Drive Elastomer Damper---- TRA7794 3.00
    Traxxas X-Maxx Transmission Cush Drive Input Shaft ---------TRA7786X 6.00
    Traxxas Cush Drive Housing --------------------------------TRA7793X 3.00
    Traxxas X-Maxx Transmission Input Gear (20T) ---------------TRA7785X 4.00

    8s Driveshafts- You have to buy complete ones because the cups do not exchange from 6s to 8s. The 8s axles are thicker. I bought mine on ebay for 85.00 for all 4 shipped.
    Ebay 85.00 from Jennys RC or luminadave


    Diffs
    7782- diff spider gears 20x2
    Traxxas X-Maxx Heavy Duty Front Pinion Gear (11T) TRA7790 10.00
    Traxxas X-Maxx Heavy Duty Rear Pinion Gear (11T) TRA7791 8.00
    (2F&R)Traxxas X-Maxx Heavy Duty Ring Gear Gear (35T) TRA7792 10.00
    (4 of these for F&R)Traxxas X-Maxx Drive Cup (8S Spec) TRA7754X 12.00

    Center Diff Traxxas X-Maxx Torque-Biasing Center Drive TRA7796 65.00

    Tires
    Stock 8s 110 on ebay
    Duratrax Six Pack X ( make sure you get X belted tires) mounted on rims 100-110 shipped for 4
    Duratrax Hatchet X mounted on rims 100-110 shipped for 4
    Pro line Badlands Beadlock wheels 200 for all 4 good but Heavy would be good for Max5/1100Kv build trucks IMO
    Last edited by TundraLu; 01-02-2021 at 09:42 PM.

  25. #65
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    Your awesome thanks. I donít have a hobby shop near me so I am going to have to order everything online, closest hobby shop is about 4 hrs south of me


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevy1991 View Post
    Your awesome thanks. I don’t have a hobby shop near me so I am going to have to order everything online, closest hobby shop is about 4 hrs south of me


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    If I can think of anything else I will update the thread. That part list should get you going for now .

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    If I can think of anything else I will update the thread. That part list should get you going for now .
    Canít wait to see yours all done and running. Post a video of you got any Iíd like to see it go


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  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevy1991 View Post
    Can’t wait to see yours all done and running. Post a video of you got any I’d like to see it go


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    I will post a video on Youtube and send you a link via PM .

  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    I will post a video on Youtube and send you a link via PM .
    You can put the link in the Forum is you want, no problem.

  30. #70
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    I just bought a used Traxxas X-Maxx 6S and will be Rebuilding it

    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    Your Welcome and whatever questions you have please don't hesitate to ask. I have taken apart 2 used 6S and 1 8s and in the process of rebuilding all three of them. Yes you need the Rear Bulkhead Traxxas part # 7727x to accommodate the metal center diff that will take place of the plastic one. I just bought a couple extra chassis to have on hand but they are not needed for the 8S upgrade as yours will work fine. I figured extra so i can dye them black beforehand. To make a 6S to 8S it takes some money though. I have spent so much money just ordering on Ebay, Amain, Amazon, and my local hobby shops.

    My plan so far:

    1 xmaxx to use a HobbyWing Max 6 with stock motors 1275Kv or 1600Kv ?????
    1 Xmaxx to use with a Hobbywing Max 6 and the Hobbywing 1650Kv with with WFO mount and HR 50T spur and 18T pinion
    1 Xmaxx to use with a Hobbywing MAx5 and the 1100Kv combo with WFO mount and Mod 1.5 gears 30/25
    If I go with the max6 1100kv what gearing would be suggested for all around running? Iíve found some spur gears but having trouble finding pinions, do I need d bore gears for the max 6? Iím kinda lost when it comes to these new mod gears and diameter of shafts and stuff.
    Here is the combo I plan to go with

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/HWI38010802....m46890.l49292


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  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevy1991 View Post
    If I go with the max6 1100kv what gearing would be suggested for all around running? Iíve found some spur gears but having trouble finding pinions, do I need d bore gears for the max 6? Iím kinda lost when it comes to these new mod gears and diameter of shafts and stuff.
    Here is the combo I plan to go with

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/HWI38010802....m46890.l49292


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I would not recommend the Max 6 with a 1100Kv motor. Everyone was telling me the same and now I understand by asking alot of guys that run this setup. I bought the combo and then found a Max5 for a good deal and grabbed it. The Max6 is geared more for a stock 8s vlx upgrade.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

  32. #72
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    Yes, this is true. Max 6 is anemic for 1100 kv motor. It will quickly overheat and ultimately burn out from thermal overload. (Verified from personal experience)

    That motor is hungry for amps. Better to pair it with a Max 5.

  33. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    I would not recommend the Max 6 with a 1100Kv motor. Everyone was telling me the same and now I understand by asking alot of guys that run this setup. I bought the combo and then found a Max5 for a good deal and grabbed it. The Max6 is geared more for a stock 8s vlx upgrade.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
    Oh really? I heard it would be a step up from the stock 8s system I was looking at the max5 but wasnít sure if I need all that power.. hmm decisions. Would there be another motor you can recommend that would work well for the max6 esc


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  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    Yes, this is true. Max 6 is anemic for 1100 kv motor. It will quickly overheat and ultimately burn out from thermal overload. (Verified from personal experience)

    That motor is hungry for amps. Better to pair it with a Max 5.
    Well crap thatís good to know. I almost ordered that combo lol.


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  35. #75
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    Sorry, maybe I’m not being clear. For replacement of the Traxxas 8s VXL ESC, the Max 6 is a great alternative if you’re keeping the stock VXL motor.

    But for running anything more powerful (1000kv hobbywing motor in this case) no good.

    Hobbywing 1650kv would work fine. Though, if you’re looking for major power upgrade you may find this motor lacking.

    I would recommend 1100 KV or 800 KV w/Max 5.
    Last edited by afreek1000; 01-03-2021 at 09:37 PM.

  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    Sorry, maybe Iím not being clear. For replacement of the Traxxas 8s VXL ESC, itís a great alternative if youíre keeping the stock VXL motor.

    But for running anything more powerful (1000kv hobbywing motor in this case) no good.
    I see. Guess I gotta do more research I want to get the ultimate combo for my budget but also donít want to overpower it


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  37. #77
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    Max5 wonít overpower. Just depends on batteries and motor. Best to match batteries, esc, and motor. For instance the 5898 can around 200 amp continuous, the Max5 is good for 200 amps continuous, my batteries are good for 205 amps. Geared 37/46. Itís a monster.


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  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevy1991 View Post
    I see. Guess I gotta do more research I want to get the ultimate combo for my budget but also don’t want to overpower it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Wanting to run a Max 5/1100Kv combo will add more $$$ as you will need a motor mount(70-90), ESC mount (20-50)since it will not fit in the stock location, and strong pinion and spur gears (WFO mod 1.5 D bore come to mind and they are not cheap at 100.00. I see no one is explaining this to you as clear as this and it all depends how deep in the rabbit hole you want to go( your wallet ).

    On a different note since you are coming from a 6s to 8s upgrade which adds even more money I would go for the Max6/1650Kv upgrade to see how you like it. I would think that path would make you happy as the stock 1600Kv is no slouch on 8s. a lot of people don't recommend that since the motor is not recommended for 8s but a ton of people run it on Youtube without issues.

    Look at RCKnockouts Max6/1650Kv setup on Youtube.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1zx...nel=RCKnockout
    Last edited by TundraLu; 01-03-2021 at 11:42 PM.

  39. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    Wanting to run a Max 5/1100Kv combo will add more $$$ as you will need a motor mount(70-90), ESC mount (20-50)since it will not fit in the stock location, and strong pinion and spur gears (WFO mod 1.5 D bore come to mind and they are not cheap at 100.00. I see no one is explaining this to you as clear as this and it all depends how deep in the rabbit hole you want to go( your wallet ).

    On a different note since you are coming from a 6s to 8s upgrade which adds even more money I would go for the Max6/1650Kv upgrade to see how you like it. I would think that path would make you happy as the stock 1600Kv is no slouch on 8s. a lot of people don't recommend that since the motor is not recommended for 8s but a ton of people run it on Youtube without issues.

    Look at RCKnockouts Max6/1650Kv setup on Youtube.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1zx...nel=RCKnockout
    Good performance with this combo.

  40. #80
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    51
    Quote Originally Posted by TundraLu View Post
    Wanting to run a Max 5/1100Kv combo will add more $$$ as you will need a motor mount(70-90), ESC mount (20-50)since it will not fit in the stock location, and strong pinion and spur gears (WFO mod 1.5 D bore come to mind and they are not cheap at 100.00. I see no one is explaining this to you as clear as this and it all depends how deep in the rabbit hole you want to go( your wallet ).

    On a different note since you are coming from a 6s to 8s upgrade which adds even more money I would go for the Max6/1650Kv upgrade to see how you like it. I would think that path would make you happy as the stock 1600Kv is no slouch on 8s. a lot of people don't recommend that since the motor is not recommended for 8s but a ton of people run it on Youtube without issues.

    Look at RCKnockouts Max6/1650Kv setup on Youtube.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1zx...nel=RCKnockout
    Hi will still need a motor mount thought right? And what gears would I need to use the max 6 1650kv? I watched that video and that looks like plenty of power


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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