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  1. #1
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    How great would it be...and Unlimited Rock Racer kit based for the UDR?

    So Losi has been leveraging the Rey platforms to have both a desert truck and rock racer in both 1/10 and 1/6 sizes. We all know at this point the UDR has the ideal size and weight to be hyper realistic. How great would it be for traxxas to just sell a cage kit to convert the UDR to a rock racer?

    The way I see it, the cage just needs to shorten the rear end of the cage to the bumper doesnít stick out as far, heck include a single tire mount, more importantly on the cage at the joints more mounting points for panels around and some taller tires and presto! 1/7 Unlimited Desert Racer.

    I would pay to get that cage and tires for my UDR. Anyone else?

  2. #2
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    Oh yeah, I'd be down. I've floated the idea of building an Ultra 4 truck off of the UDR, but never got any interest. It's got the chassis, the suspension and the drivetrain for it.

    Traxxas did a U4 build and posted it a few months ago. It looked cool, but I think it could be done better.

    I'd love to have a roller to build a 2nd UDR into that.

  3. #3
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    As much as I like this idea, it's just easier to buy the Losi Super Rock Rey. Even better, Dave up a few hundred extra dollars, and get the DBXL-E 2.0.

    Now, back to working on my two Rusty 4x4s, and my Slash/Bandit-based no-prep drag car.


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  4. #4
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    Theoretically all traxxas needs to sell is a shortened 8430 side sections that terminates sooner at the rear and close on its own with some more body panel mount points, and a shortened 8432 center chassis section.

    Losi’s non race line uses pretty crappy plastic that gets sloppy quickly from what I read. AE was making the nomad but I don’t really want to deal with another companies parts supply system that will discontinue support quickly. If Someone like tekno made one it would be a different story though, given their excellent parts support track record and top quality plastic.

  5. #5
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    Theoretically all traxxas needs to sell is a shortened 8430 side sections that terminates sooner at the rear and close on its own with some more body panel mount points, and a shortened 8432 center chassis section.

    Losiís non race line uses pretty crappy plastic that gets sloppy quickly from what I read. AE was making the nomad but I donít really want to deal with another companies parts supply system that will discontinue support quickly. If Someone like tekno made one it would be a different story though, given their excellent parts support track record and top quality plastic.
    While I've upgraded several things on my Losi Baja Rey, the great majority of plastic parts are still stock, and I haven't had any problems with them. As for AE, I completely understand. In regards to Tekno, if they offered something in this class, I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

    Getting back to Traxxas, I have nothing against the brand...I have two Rusty 4x4s, a 4WD Slash, and a 2WD Slash/Bandit no-prep I'm building...but, I've realized (as many others have) that different companies are better for different vehicle types. Plus, each person has his/her own preferences. For the no-prep car, there are multiple routes I could have gone, to including converting a TLR 22 5.0...but, to I wanted to go the Traxxas Slash/Bandit route.


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  6. #6
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    My main beef with the Losi offerings is that they're still just a rolling chassis, with a rollcage slapped on top instead of a lexan body.

    The UDR is actually a complete scale chassis, so its more realistic in how it both looks and performs. This is an estimation from watching videos of the Losi trucks. I've never driven one.

    If I was jonesing for a rock bouncer, like what the East Coast guys are flying up hills in, the Rock Rey would look the part. But the West Coast Ultra 4 look is what I prefer. If you check out King of the Hammers footage you'll see that the UDR chassis without the body is a very close match to what's competing in Johnson Valley as far as IFS is concerned.

    Run some million weight diff oil or silly putty up front, take that front sway bar off and you'd have a competitive rock racer. I'd want to run a sensored ESC / motor combo though, and the cost of new electronics is the main obstacle for me.

    At some point, I'll probably do an Ultra 4 build with a second chassis. But that's years down the road. Thanks to Traxxas' model longevity, I'm sure I'll have no problem picking up a second one then.

  7. #7
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    First, not trying to start any arguments, or a "Traxxas vs Losi" war. Second, Fallen's 'assessment' of Losi's versions (reg & Super Baja/Rock Rey, as well as DBXL-E 2.0) being nothing more than "a rolling chassis, with a rollcage slapped on top instead of a lexan body" is way off base. While I admit there is a chassis plate (as compared to the cage 'being' the chassis, ala UDR), it is far more durable than the app-plastic cage/chassis of the UDR...plus, it is not "slapped on", and, there is a lexan body. As a matter of fact, the cage is attached to the chassis using 12 screws, and the body is attached to the cage using 22 screws (at least with the Baja Rey).

    If someone is looking for the most accurate detailing, then I would agree in saying to get the UDR. On the other hand, if someone prefers durability over incredibly accurate scale appearance, I would say yet one of the Losi offerings.


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  8. #8
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    Yeah, I can buy that. The "slapped on" was an overstatement likely motivated by some pro-Traxxas bias on my part.

    And yes, if you want a scale model you can really abuse, I think Losi would be where you should put your money.

    But I think the Losi / Traxxas war is decades old, and I like it. The competition between those two has brought us some rad models and they're probably going to keep getting better. Losi beat Traxxas to the trophy truck game and I suspect that was part of the motivation for the UDR. I hope Losi's Lasernut model prompts an Ultra 4 truck from Traxxas.

  9. #9
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    I think the Losi / Traxxas war is decades old, and I like it. The competition between those two has brought us some rad models and they're probably going to keep getting better.

    I hope Losi's Lasernut model prompts an Ultra 4 truck from Traxxas.
    Don't forget Arrma, as they also produce plenty of excellent vehicles. the great thing is that all three can coexist. Well Traxxas focuses primarily on the "entry level" markets, they also have a number of mid-range, and higher end, vehicles. Arma focuses primarily at the higher end, but also has mid-range, and low end, vehicles. As for lucy, they focus primarily on the mid to upper ends, but also have lower end vehicles.

    As for the Lasernut, I'd also like to see Traxxas' "take" on such a vehicle. While it is possible to convert other vehicles to a U4 (such as the Axial Capra), it's great to see an RTR version. Not only would I like to see Traxxas "take" on such a vehicle, but I'd also like to see 'someone' come out with a kit version, truly allowing owners to put their own "spin" on it, as they build.


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  10. #10
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    Traxxas would have to make it as tough as one of their 70+ mph backflipping monster trucks that can take the abuse of a ďrun it till ya break itĒ basher because those tough trucks were meant to take that abuse...in real life
    So the owner of this new model (that I want too) will have that mindset and will take the sport mode to the very limits and come back here to complain how weak and crappy this cheap pos is
    A tough truck is there in front of you because of the roll cage and chassis. Someone needs to 3D print it for you
    Besides - that new model will be based on the UDR chassis and then everyone will come back here to NOW complain about the ďcheapness and lack of originalityĒ of Traxxas
    Patience. If they build the UDR the creative ones will come out and give you what you want. Thatís the magic and wonder of 3D printing. Youíre blessed to live in this day and age
    Hey! Someone may have read this and are on their CAD program right now...


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  11. #11
    RC Champion Panther6834's Avatar
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    Or, instead of having a 3D printed modified cage done, one could always weld their own cage, which would be a lot stronger. That's probably the best way to end up with what you want, if it is to be based on the UDR.


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  12. #12
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    I already ordered a roller set from jennyrc, my plan is simple: cut off the part of side sections that form the rear deck, and use structural plastic adhesive to bond the rear bumper extension to where the C pillar ends. 3D printed parts would be good for the body panel mounts though, for sure. And since this will be more geared toward rocky terrain, no sway bars.

    We will see how it goes.

  13. #13
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    Sounds like a good plan to me. I'm glad to see someone acting on the U4 potential in the chassis. I'm surprised there hasn't been more of it already.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    I already ordered a roller set from jennyrc, my plan is simple: cut off the part of side sections that form the rear deck, and use structural plastic adhesive to bond the rear bumper extension to where the C pillar ends. 3D printed parts would be good for the body panel mounts though, for sure. And since this will be more geared toward rocky terrain, no sway bars.

    We will see how it goes.
    Having seen photos of some of your other work, I'm fairly confident yours will turn out pretty darn good. Wanna see photos once done...but, more importantly, wanna see video.


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  15. #15
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    In the interest of lower-speed rock crawling (Ultra 4), the 70/30 Throttle Neutral setting provides pretty good low speed control with no cogging.

    It still probably isn't as nice as a sensored set-up would be, but it's good enough that I'd save myself the $300 on new electronics and run it like that for U4 driving.

  16. #16
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    Bit late, but check this out!

    https://traxxas.com/news/udr-4400-race-rig
    𝘚𝘓4𝘚𝘏

  17. #17
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    I saw that and that was what got me thinking.

    What I’m envisioning is a mashup of the traxxas 4400 concept, but shorter rear deck, no sway bars, and taller tires. I have some hyrax 2.2 crawler tires coming that I am looking to trim and mount on the udr wheels, along with a MMX-2200kv sensored combo.

    The UDR already comes with locked rear axle so it’s practically already there. The only challenge is with the stock cage there is a limit of about 5.7-5.8inch diameter on the tires before the front tires rubbing when turning and compressing. I need to find a way to mount conventional 17mm hexes on the udr and widen the track just a little so taller tires can clear the front cage.
    Last edited by TwoBelugas; 01-04-2021 at 02:29 AM.

  18. #18
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    Hey man, I don't know how scale or class specific you're trying to keep your build, but if you're shooting for a true 4400, you might not need to worry about larger tires.

    I think the 4400 class runs 40" tires, which is the same size that the Best In The Desert trophy truck classes are running. The Ultra 4 trucks are just using different treads and compounds.

  19. #19
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    I stand corrected. According to the 2021 U4 rulebook, there is no restriction on tire size for the 4400 class. The racers might be commonly running 40" tires, but that's up to them.

  20. #20
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    Well, I'm on board this U4 train. The UDR is a blast as an Ultra 4 truck.

    My son and I were driving normally at a spot near our house, he driving his Axial Yeti and me on the UDR. When all of a sudden, out of nowhere an Ultra 4 race broke out!

    The truck body came off, and into / over the rocks the UDR went. It was an 1/8 mile course with mud, loose dirt and hills with baby head sized rocks. The UDR handled it well, but I DNF'd due to dead TX batteries. My son's Yeti also died due to a snapped drive shaft, but he was 1 lap ahead of me on a 20 lap race. We both worked up a sweat chasing our toy trucks around.

    So I'll be taking my front sway bar off and putting something stiffer than 500,000 WT in the front diff. I don't plan on making too many other changes since the truck did ok, and I still want to be able to run the truck body.

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Traxxas better hurry-up and get their rock racer/bouncer together...
    The Axial RBX Ryft RTR looks nice!



    An official Traxxas backed Rock Racer/Bouncer is much needed and would be great... although it would put my Slash 4x4 out of commission.


    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...=1#post6556099

    Can't wait to see what Traxxas has in store for 2021!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post

    An official Traxxas backed Rock Racer/Bouncer is much needed and would be great... although it would put my Slash 4x4 out of commission.


    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...=1#post6556099

    Can't wait to see what Traxxas has in store for 2021!
    Me too, I have one HCG rock racer and one LCG high speed desert rig built with the VG racing cage that could be obsolete. Lol.

    However, I recently got a set of long travel kit for 2wd slash from Marton Brothers and they mentioned they are still working on a 4wd version. When that comes out, it could breathe new life into the Sl4sh cage builds with longer travel suspension.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    They are pre-ordering their front and rear 4x4 kits.

    It would be nice if they sold their over-sized shock towers for the 4WD Slash separately... guess time will tell
    Last edited by Squeegie; 01-07-2021 at 03:04 PM.
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  24. #24
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    Those 4wd kits have been preordering for awhile now so I got curious and asked them, it appears those guys don’t put out half baked stuff so they are still at it. When they do come out I hope MIP can produce some longer half drives to preserve the overlap in the driveshafts, I blew so much money on MIP set ups for Sl4sh builds it’s frankly depressing. That was sort of the reason why I moved into the UDR game, if I’m gonna end up building a 4 figure car, might as well make it bigger. Lol.

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    Those 4wd kits have been preordering for awhile now so I got curious and asked them, it appears those guys donít put out half baked stuff so they are still at it. When they do come out I hope MIP can produce some longer half drives to preserve the overlap in the driveshafts, I blew so much money on MIP set ups for Sl4sh builds itís frankly depressing. That was sort of the reason why I moved into the UDR game, if Iím gonna end up building a 4 figure car, might as well make it bigger. Lol.
    MIP can do pretty much any length shaft you want. Contact them with the length you need between the U joints and they can hook you up. i did this for my Bomber built with Traxxas parts. XD are all the same size, mix and match the ends. Mine is Slash 4x at the wheels going to a Summit diff. When I built this rig, I went to MIP and they got me hooked up. Surprisingly, I got a shop tour and they were machining UDR shafts as I watched. Pretty cool stuff, you could eat off the floor in the place.


    20190110_191206 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

    20181123_145408 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAC FAB View Post
    MIP can do pretty much any length shaft you want. Contact them with the length you need between the U joints and they can hook you up. i did this for my Bomber built with Traxxas parts. XD are all the same size, mix and match the ends. Mine is Slash 4x at the wheels going to a Summit diff. When I built this rig, I went to MIP and they got me hooked up. Surprisingly, I got a shop tour and they were machining UDR shafts as I watched. Pretty cool stuff, you could eat off the floor in the place.

    Thatís right, you did mention the customizable shaft length with MIP in the other thread.

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Yes, all you have to do is give them a call and they will help you get the length you need.
    I have their X-Dutys on my ProLine ProTrac A-arms on my Slash 4x4.

    Just remember that there is a limit to the angles they can safety articulate (40˚).

    Have fun!
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  28. #28
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    Luckily I think the Marton bro kits rely mainly on longer length arms and different shock towers to achieve longer travel, at least on the 2wd kit, so they come with longer camber link and turnbuckle rods rather than simply increasing the angle of articulation.

    Perhaps one day they will build longer travel front a arms for the UDR, or in this case, a conceptual URR(ultimate rock racer).

  29. #29
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    The biggest "hang-up" to the UDR's rock performance was the planetary housing on the rear axle. It's huge, and mine's made from aluminum which is not a rock-friendly material. That's the only motivation for me to use a taller tire. It'd be nice to gain some ground clearance for that housing.

    I'm buying some new cage pieces to try shortening the cage. I don't want to cut up my Cerakoted cage. I'll be painting the new cage parts with Testor's silver, so we'll see how durable that is.

  30. #30
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    The “pumpkin” is definitely a clearance killer for morphing the udr into a rough terrain rig. There are a couple of other hang ups that I see too. In no particular order

    -the front end needs to be shorter to enhance approach angle. That’s a tough one but one with patience can alter that or aftermarket can fill in the void
    -front fender section of the cage limits tire height. That’s a tough one since the area inboard of tires follows the shape of the chassis. This would either require a different set of side cage or wider arms.
    -lack of choice of tires unless you cut your own, since the short course style wheels doesn’t fit rock tires and the weird stub axles don’t take 17mm hub wheels well, and the front knuckles won’t fit 2.2 wheels without some widening.

    Overall it won’t be a big deal for traxxas to mutate the udr a bit but little much for hobbyists, so unfortunately right now, we would have to get something like a super rock Rey to gain noticeable improvement in rock performance.
    Last edited by TwoBelugas; 01-10-2021 at 05:23 AM.

  31. #31
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    Making the front shorter is indeed a challenge. I cut off the fuel cell, shortening the rear cage significantly. I then tried to figure out a way to shorten the front, but came up with nothing.

    The skid plate attaches to the lower bumper, so it's difficult to lose that bumper. Finding a good way to mount the front lights is also stumping me, as the bumpers make up the light mount.

    I'll figure it out eventually. Fortunately the U4 course we ran doesn't involve any climbs where both front wheels are contacting rocks taller than the front bumpers.

  32. #32
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    Well, it’s happening. I will eventually sand down the cut areas to look cleaner.

    A crossmember was added for rigidness right where the rear sway bar would be since that’s the lowest point near the rear end of the cage that still clears the rear axle and upper link.
    Last edited by TwoBelugas; 01-15-2021 at 10:33 PM.

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    Nice! You made your cuts a bit closer to the cab than I did, as I cut right before the fuel cell.

    I drilled holes into the cage members that were left, and attached the stock bumper right to where I had cut.

    Unfortunately my VXL6S ESC gave me the 4 red lights of doom yesterday, so my UDR is dead in the water for a little while. My warranty expired one month ago...
    Last edited by Fallen; 01-15-2021 at 11:52 PM.

  34. #34
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    Yeah, in retrospect cutting right in front of the fuel cell would be better as that allows the rear bumper to stay intact and makes for a better tail end structure. The way I did I cannot bolt the tail bumper straight on as that gap is needed for the pumpkin to clear. Heck the side cage parts are only 18 bucks so I might get another set and experiment more.

    Have you thought about what to replace th esc with? I am looking at putting a MMX+2200kv in mine since sensored motor might be good for lower speed rock terrain.

  35. #35
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    I have a new set of cage sides coming too, because I want to be able to swap between Trophy Truck and U4 depending on the terrain. The cage is actually pretty cheap if you avoid the black satin parts.

    I was just planning to utilize the Traxxas trade in program if I can, but now that you mention it, this might be a good time to go sensored.

    Do you know of any ESC's that can support the stock light controller? It plugs right into the VXL6S, and I do appreciate that convenience.

  36. #36
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    Those satin parts sure add up quick. It’s pretty easy to spend a grand on an UDR before you even touch the electronics

    I actually have never bought a complete UDR, I ended up getting the parts that serve as the base kit from JRC since I planned to use aftermarket ESC and servo from the start, also axles, arms, etc. The LED lights, at least the power amplifier, does seem pretty proprietary....
    Last edited by TwoBelugas; 01-16-2021 at 12:58 AM.

  37. #37
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    From one of the guys on the forum who has the black satin cage, the finish isn't very durable. I've been painting my new cage pieces with Testor's silver, and it looks pretty good. It isn't likely to be any less durable than the black satin, and it's a whole lot cheaper.

    The only cage pieces that are a pain to install are at the front of the truck. The sides and rear are simple enough that I could convert from U4 to trophy in about 30 minutes.

  38. #38
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    I have been staring at the front end and I think, with a little heat, one can bend the front skid plate more vertical and remove one or more of the pieces that connect the front bumper bar to the “hood”. Heck, perhaps with enough bending we can use screw the skid plate below the bar straight to where the screws are in front of the sway bar rod.

  39. #39
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    TwoBelugas > more pics please. I have been thinking about that exact same mod. Can you post up assembled pics please.

  40. #40
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    An interesting solution for the front could be the RPM skid plate. It's a 3 piece design and appears to allow you to delete the bumper and possibly the bumper / skid plate connection.

    Could be perfect for modifying the front end.

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