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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Check this out. New center shaft alternative

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/333839045453
    Looks like it could be a great option. Might have to give it a shot.


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  2. #2
    RC Racer EclipseMantis's Avatar
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    I take it you don't watch Kevin Talbot?



    He's bashed it pretty hard in some recent videos. Seems to have held up.
    𝘚𝘓4𝘚𝘏

  3. #3
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    Yep that is his design If I remember correctly.

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  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I did for a while but just couldn’t keep watching it. Just thought I’d help by sharing. I haven’t heard anyone mention these on this forum.


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  5. #5
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    Never had a center shaft issue
    going over 4 1/2 years

    Crazy over priced hop up
    fabricator

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXMAXX View Post
    Never had a center shaft issue
    going over 4 1/2 years

    Crazy over priced hop up
    After watching what KT does with his, it makes sense why he would need it. Before I got a 7075 M2C chassis on my outcast, I was bending it's center axles... chassis... and it had a break in the middle for the center diff. Still not enough slop for when you lawn dart from 20 feet in the air. lol!

    I bent the one in my stampede 4x4 a couple times as well. Haven't had an issue since I got the t-bone in it.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  7. #7
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    It's a good solution, but Kev runs his rigs very, very hard, very much than one of us, IMHO, he runs the rigs beyond his limits in every video. The two piece shaft is clever, but very expensive.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Just thought I’d help by sharing. I haven’t heard anyone mention these on this forum.


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    Thank you for sharing this.

    They are starting to get closer to solving the center shaft bending issue by making the shaft two pieces; but they stopped short on addressing the arc issue from flexing.

    To truly make that design work properly, they need to incorporate a two piece shaft design like they have in your link, but they need to make a universal swivel joint at the center bearing point like you have for ratchets that need to swivel at various angles before reaching a nut or bolt.

    I believe if you have a universal swivel point in the middle of two shafts, they have less chance of using the center spline piece as a lever to bend the independent shafts.

    Like I said, they are getting closer, but keep coming up short from actually trying the universal swivel joint approach for some reason. It would only have to have about 1mm~1.5mm of swivel arc to be effective from flex stress.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 01-07-2021 at 05:05 PM. Reason: Correction.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Thank you for sharing this.

    They are starting to get closer to solving the center shaft bending issue by making the shaft two pieces; but they stopped short on addressing the arc issue from flexing.

    To truly make that design work properly, they need to incorporate a two piece shaft design like they have in your link, but they need to make a universal swivel joint at the bearing point like you have for ratchets that need to swivel at various angles before reaching a nut or bolt.

    I believe if you have a universal swivel point in the middle of two shafts, they have less chance of using the center spline piece as a lever to bend the independent shafts.

    Like I said, they are getting closer, but keep coming up short from actually trying the universal swivel joint approach for some reason. It would only have to have about 1mm~1.5mm of swivel arc to be effective from flex stress.
    Mate, do you mean anything like this:


  10. #10
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    i bought one of these. it's got bearings on either end and seems to be working fine for me.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    Mate, do you mean anything like this:

    Yes, something along that idea, but possibly make a bearing swivel joint that can allow the center spline piece itself to perform that type of action so as to eliminate repetitive moving parts.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Yes, something along that idea, but possibly make a bearing swivel joint that can allow the center spline piece itself to perform that type of action so as to eliminate repetitive moving parts.
    I understand you mate, your idea is very clever.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I'd be curious how far you can bend it when cut in half due to the slop on the spline. I mean, the chassis will only bend so far before it splits anyway and if it can bend that far before tweaking the tubes, then the issue is more or less solved. If you crack the chassis, your going to have to remove the center shaft anyway, so if the halves are tweaked, you'd be there to replace them too.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXMAXX View Post
    Never had a center shaft issue
    going over 4 1/2 years

    Crazy over priced hop up
    80 bills is high.


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I'd be curious how far you can bend it when cut in half due to the slop on the spline. I mean, the chassis will only bend so far before it splits anyway and if it can bend that far before tweaking the tubes, then the issue is more or less solved. If you crack the chassis, your going to have to remove the center shaft anyway, so if the halves are tweaked, you'd be there to replace them too.
    Yes; fair enough.

    The truth is, the center shaft was bending because people were casing their jumps and the center shaft was acting as part of the rigidity between the two flex points of the entire bulk head units when it was a one piece design.

    If something smacks that center drive line skid hard enough and there is no arc point to absorb the stress impact from two ends of the truck flexing, the result has to be a bent center shaft.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 01-07-2021 at 05:52 PM. Reason: Updated.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    80 bills is high.


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    that one i posted about is $45. it still allows the shaft to slide.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-X-M...kAAOSwRBFeAX6t

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95blackz26 View Post
    that one i posted about is $45. it still allows the shaft to slide.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-X-M...kAAOSwRBFeAX6t
    This system in more reliable and maybe be a solution too.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95blackz26 View Post
    that one i posted about is $45. it still allows the shaft to slide.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-X-M...kAAOSwRBFeAX6t
    I’ve seen this but also it seems high for the just the 3D print and a couple bearings too. At least Talbots includes shafts.


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  19. #19
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    That one is sure not worthy

    Lawn dart over 30 mph and pay
    fabricator

  20. #20
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    If you map out the traxxas parts in cost of the OP design, it lands around $35 USD. Which means the cost of the 3d printed center support materials and machine usage, labor, and gross margin is $44 USD. How expensive that is to you depends on how much you value your time to build it yourself and if you own the machinery to make it. Good for them for building a product that is useful.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    If you map out the traxxas parts in cost of the OP design, it lands around $35 USD. Which means the cost of the 3d printed center support materials and machine usage, labor, and gross margin is $44 USD. How expensive that is to you depends on how much you value your time to build it yourself and if you own the machinery to make it. Good for them for building a product that is useful.
    Are you trying to use logic on the Internet? Foolish.

    Yeah the price is not bad. I don’t have much issue with them (bent 1 recall) and I jump a lot but tend to land in dirt and land flat. I think Kevin bends them from the state part. Landing on the ramps are hard. Weather it is the face or top of the ramp.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by TC450 View Post
    Are you trying to use logic on the Internet? Foolish.
    I know, how dare me lol.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    If you map out the traxxas parts in cost of the OP design, it lands around $35 USD. Which means the cost of the 3d printed center support materials and machine usage, labor, and gross margin is $44 USD. How expensive that is to you depends on how much you value your time to build it yourself and if you own the machinery to make it. Good for them for building a product that is useful.
    I think the same, each one put the price for his work and time, but for the RC kids, all is expensive, an amount of broken parts, high the bill.

  24. #24
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    How necessary is this anyway? I presume you have to jump pretty high to bend the driveshaft...

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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    How necessary is this anyway? I presume you have to jump pretty high to bend the driveshaft...

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    Of course, you need to jump very hard and high, most of the mates here never had an issue with their center shaft.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    I think the same, each one put the price for his work and time, but for the RC kids, all is expensive, an amount of broken parts, high the bill.
    The other side of the coin is... I can get a good 5-7 new driveshafts for the cost of this one custom built one.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    The other side of the coin is... I can get a good 5-7 new driveshafts for the cost of this one custom built one.
    I prefer to buy various center shafts instead this product, of course, more affordable.

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    The other side of the coin is... I can get a good 5-7 new driveshafts for the cost of this one custom built one.
    The same can be said about the MIP X-Duty's I have on my stampede ($45 for 4 new, $140 for MIP)... but having them break while out bashing is annoying, having to be "easy" on it is also annoying and replacing them isn't fun.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    The same can be said about the MIP X-Duty's I have on my stampede ($45 for 4 new, $140 for MIP)... but having them break while out bashing is annoying, having to be "easy" on it is also annoying and replacing them isn't fun.
    I agree, the reason you'd pay for these are not because they are cost effective, but because they prevent the effort of having to change out the part - which can ruin the day if lets say you damage the driveshaft when you first start your bashing session.

  30. #30
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    ¿Anyone has the link to B&M gear cover?

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    ¿Anyone has the link to B&M gear cover?
    I think it is a dead end Juanmacine.

    I had noticed more and more on eBay, that the guys that were selling 3D printed covers to accommodate MOD 1.5 gears were shut down. I mean they were shut down hard for some reason I don't understand because their ideas did not infringe on copyright protections.

    Maybe the demand was just not there...........I don't know.

    Every link I had tried to old 3D printed gear covers was dead - the links quit working about 3 months ago on all the searches I pulled up from the archives.
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I think it is a dead end Juanmacine.

    I had noticed more and more on eBay, that the guys that were selling 3D printed covers to accommodate MOD 1.5 gears were shut down. I mean they were shut down hard for some reason I don't understand because their ideas did not infringe on copyright protections.

    Maybe the demand was just not there...........I don't know.

    Every link I had tried to old 3D printed gear covers was dead - the links quit working about 3 months ago on all the searches I pulled up from the archives.
    I understand mate, thanks for the explanation.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    I understand mate, thanks for the explanation.
    Just when I thought all hope was lost..............I found one!



    Nice two piece design and custom availability options:

    https://td3d.square.site/product/x-m...rue&cst=custom
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Just when I thought all hope was lost..............I found one!



    Nice two piece design and custom availability options:

    https://td3d.square.site/product/x-m...rue&cst=custom
    Many thanks mate, I appreciate this very much.

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    Many thanks mate, I appreciate this very much.
    You're Welcome!

    I guess you needed one as well.

    Oh, I forgot to mention that it works with the belt drive systems too!
    Sent from my autonomous device.

  36. #36
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    Man I have a 3d printer. Need to get the file to design and print these

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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    You're Welcome!

    I guess you needed one as well.

    Oh, I forgot to mention that it works with the belt drive systems too!
    I have the three systems, MOD 1 stock gears (GDS included), belt system and various 1.5 MOD gears too, this cover works for all.

  38. #38
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    What's all this mod 1 and mod 1.5 stuff? I still don't really get it!

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  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    What's all this mod 1 and mod 1.5 stuff? I still don't really get it!

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    It's the tooth size/pitch on the spur/pinion. The larger the number, the larger the tooth.

    All I have are Mod .8, 32P and Mod 1. My eJato and stampede run M.8/32P, the rest use M1.

    I think M.8 and 32P are similar, the tooth is shaped a bit different, but they can be used together. But that's a whole other thing. lol!
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  40. #40
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    What are the standard spur and pinion?

    Basically it's fine to use whatwvwrz as long as the aupr and pinion "match"?

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