Check this out. New center shaft alternative

[Juanmacine]

It's the tooth size/pitch on the spur/pinion. The larger the number, the larger the tooth.

All I have are Mod .8, 32P and Mod 1. My eJato and stampede run M.8/32P, the rest use M1.

I think M.8 and 32P are similar, the tooth is shaped a bit different, but they can be used together. But that's a whole other thing. lol!

You're are right, it's the same. TRX4 has this type of MOD.

What are the standard spur and pinion?

Basically it's fine to use whatwvwrz as long as the aupr and pinion "match"?

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

In the case of X-Maxx, is the MOD 1.

[grizzly03]

What are the standard spur and pinion?

Basically it's fine to use whatwvwrz as long as the aupr and pinion "match"?

The stock Xmaxx comes with MOD 1 size gears (pinion/spur).

Correct. As long as the pinion and spur match in gear size it doesn't matter.
The difference is in the strength of the gears. The higher the MOD #, the bigger and stronger the gear tooth.

[Natedog]

If you map out the traxxas parts in cost of the OP design, it lands around $35 USD. Which means the cost of the 3d printed center support materials and machine usage, labor, and gross margin is $44 USD. How expensive that is to you depends on how much you value your time to build it yourself and if you own the machinery to make it. Good for them for building a product that is useful.

Agreed and love watching Kevin push the limits! I like to bash and jump, but haven't got as much air as he does on a regular basis lol. X-Maxx is $900 purchase plus tax, spare parts, hop-ups....if the shaft setup is too expensive, they're in the wrong hobby. I've bent the shaft in my Slash 4x4 a couple times but not yet in my X-Maxx though I've broken a-arms, knuckles, carriers, bearings, bodies.

[CrazyXMAXX]

Kevin Talbot’s new video shows what happens when using this
Chassis flex broke the stock steering assembly top brace
and the rear chassis

[halygon]

Thanks for bumping this thread. Ebay gave me a $30 discount on this OPs center drive shaft and I bit. The parts are well done, although I admit one of the shafts provided needed the end to be sanded a bit to be as smooth as I preferred. The action works well.

The center bearing and splined connector is actually just the same connector that fits on rear end of the drive shaft (so you could actually just buy this and the bearing from traxxas or lhs if you wanted). The only piece of this kit that you probably cannot do at home is the 3d printed piece that secures it all to the chassis.

I went the extra mile and added rubber o-rings to the center splined connector to cut down on extra clinking sounds.

[MarkSabier14]

I take it you don't watch Kevin Talbot?



He's bashed it pretty hard in some recent videos. Seems to have held up.

Ever since I started using RC Cars I have been using a 3-D printer and make my own parts on the cheap, Don’t get me wrong they’re not the most durable parts, but for under 10p per part it’s not worth worrying about

[ReglarGuy]

i bought one of these. it's got bearings on either end and seems to be working fine for me.

Where did yo get that?

[Gripdog7205]

Where did yo get that?

You can get that on fleabay


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[95blackz26]

Where did yo get that?

it's this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-X-M...kAAOSwRBFeAX6t

[ReglarGuy]

it's this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-X-M...kAAOSwRBFeAX6t

Thank you for answering my question. Also, does anyone knows if the bearings used are Traxxas bearings, and if so, what's the part number? One more question. Will that thing fit a original 6s Xmaxx?

[CrazyXMAXX]

Do it well

[RJUK]

Does the bottom panel even fit over that?!

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

[95blackz26]

Does the bottom panel even fit over that?!

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

yes it does. all i did was dissemble the truck enough to get the shaft out fed it through the support setup and stuffed it back in. no mods required to the truck.

[95blackz26]

Thank you for answering my question. Also, does anyone knows if the bearings used are Traxxas bearings, and if so, what's the part number? One more question. Will that thing fit a original 6s Xmaxx?

i sent a message to the seller since i'm not motivated enough to measure the bearings. i wanted to go all stainless for anything that could get wet. but they should be something you could get from jim's bearings. i'll let you know if he get's back to me or if i end up having to take apart the truck.

[ReglarGuy]

Cool, thanks.

[95blackz26]

Cool, thanks.

he sent me this back 1/2 x 3/4 x 5/32. it's an actual bearing size but i can't find a stainless version of it. i'm waiting on drive cups so when those come in i'll pull the back half of the truck apart and measure the bearing. that will hopefully be this coming saturday.

[Gripdog7205]

Cool, thanks.

Come on passive aggressive. You can type. I know better


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ReglarGuy]

Ooops, I wrote in the wrong post, sorry.

[Richard@JP]

Its only super heavy or poor landings that cause the chassis to flex enough to bend the shaft.
If it was a metal chassis car like a A**** it would have bent the chassis instead.

[Flux Capacitor]

Its only super heavy or poor landings that cause the chassis to flex enough to bend the shaft.
If it was a metal chassis car like a A**** it would have bent the chassis instead.

Objective thoughts are always appreciated and most of us understand why the center shaft is bending, hence the reason why this center shaft kit was shared. You are correct that if the chassis were more rigid or metal, chances are a center shaft would most likely not be bent out of shape.

Traxxas strives to make their RC's as light as possible with the most strength as possible with consideration as to what the stresses will allow. In all fairness, the brand I think you're mentioning (AЯRMA) is a good concept RC; however, the price to replace a chassis for them versus buying this kit for the X-Maxx is a no brainer in cost comparison to a center shaft versus a whole chassis replacement.

Point in case being, the Kraton chassis is more expensive to replace than buying this center driveshaft kit for the X-Maxx, plus a chassis replacement for the X-Maxx is a measly $22 bucks:




$99 bucks for a chassis versus $60 bucks for a kit that is going to save $12-15 bucks (plus shipping) every time you crash or land hard with the X-Maxx for a center shaft.

No thank you AЯRMA; I'll stick with my reliable X-Maxx that's easier and cheaper to maintain than an aluminum chassis based vehicle, although I do have to admit that it is easier to find parts for AЯRMA vehicles sometimes.

[olds97_lss]

$99 bucks for a chassis versus $60 bucks for a kit that is going to save $12-15 bucks (plus shipping) every time you crash or land hard with the X-Maxx for a center shaft.

No thank you ARRMA; I'll stick with my reliable X-Maxx that's easier and cheaper to maintain than an aluminum chassis based vehicle, although I do have to admit that it is easier to find parts for ARRMA vehicles sometimes.

For heavy bashers (big air, high speed) most have to fork out a lot more than that for aftermarket 7075 chassis (M2C $220) because stock just doesn't hold up.

[Flux Capacitor]

For heavy bashers (big air, high speed) most have to fork out a lot more than that for aftermarket 7075 chassis (M2C $220) because stock just doesn't hold up.

Actually, $220 isn't bad considering I spent almost that much for a decent set of wheels and tires for my X-Maxx.

Badlands are $189 and with shipping and taxes now, they are easily a $200 set of wheels!

[RJUK]

Watching Kevin Talbot's videos last night and it's not only upgraded chassis, they also run whopping great "basher bars" along the bottom of the chassis.

Amusingly, in the video I watched, despite having a "version 2" basher bar that was supposed to protect the chassis more, the Kraton 8S in question still blew out it's rear end after one mid-sized jump. So even if the chassis holds up, the bits attached it it might not.

I think weight has a lot to do with it. Apparently the big Arrrrrrmas are quite a bit heavier than the X-Maxx.

Also, why can't we type their name here? I get that it's Traxxas' forum, but being a Texas-based company you'd think they'd believe in freedom and freedom of speech. In most cases on a Traxxas forum the mention of the competition is going to be in a negative manner anyway.

Much like the body shell that we're not allowed to mention, but that most X-Maxx owners have. Everyone knows about them, so it's pointless stifling discussion about them. I don't see why Traxxas don't just figure out what they're made from, make their own and sell them through their own distribution channels with a full decal sheet. They could kill off that other unlicensed one in an instant and make themselves some extra money in the process.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

[ReglarGuy]

he sent me this back 1/2 x 3/4 x 5/32. it's an actual bearing size but i can't find a stainless version of it. I'm waiting on drive cups so when those come in i'll pull the back half of the truck apart and measure the bearing. that will hopefully be this coming Saturday.

I found some on Amazon.

[RJUK]

Edit: Answered my own question...

[grizzly03]

Also, why can't we type their name here? I get that it's Traxxas' forum, but being a Texas-based company you'd think they'd believe in freedom and freedom of speech. In most cases on a Traxxas forum the mention of the competition is going to be in a negative manner anyway.

Not quite sure what your talking about? Why the ignorance? I have seen ARRMA being mentioned without problems. I think you might have spelled it different. Some auto spellchecks change the Arrma name to something less appropriate.

[RJUK]

Not quite sure what your talking about? Why the ignorance? I have seen ARRMA being mentioned without problems. I think you might have spelled it different. Some auto spellchecks change the Arrma name to something less appropriate.

Oh, not sure - somebody posted above and it starred out most of the name - not my post. Hardly ignorance - just observation.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

[grizzly03]

Oh, not sure - somebody posted above and it starred out most of the name - not my post. Hardly ignorance - just observation.

Sorry for the use of "you" when it could of been "it" or "they".

Too many jump on the "Freedom of speech" bandwagon when that has nothing to do with it. Comment was more than an observation.

[olds97_lss]

Watching Kevin Talbot's videos last night and it's not only upgraded chassis, they also run whopping great "basher bars" along the bottom of the chassis.

Amusingly, in the video I watched, despite having a "version 2" basher bar that was supposed to protect the chassis more, the Kraton 8S in question still blew out it's rear end after one mid-sized jump. So even if the chassis holds up, the bits attached it it might not.

I think weight has a lot to do with it. Apparently the big Arrrrrrmas are quite a bit heavier than the X-Maxx.

Also, why can't we type their name here? I get that it's Traxxas' forum, but being a Texas-based company you'd think they'd believe in freedom and freedom of speech. In most cases on a Traxxas forum the mention of the competition is going to be in a negative manner anyway.

Much like the body shell that we're not allowed to mention, but that most X-Maxx owners have. Everyone knows about them, so it's pointless stifling discussion about them. I don't see why Traxxas don't just figure out what they're made from, make their own and sell them through their own distribution channels with a full decal sheet. They could kill off that other unlicensed one in an instant and make themselves some extra money in the process.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

I saw that one as well. The thing just shattered and it wasn't even that big of a jump. Must have been really cold. KT has mentioned quite a few times that the arms seem very brittle as he has broken quite a few of them. I have the outcast 6S and run RPM arms on it. After 6 months I had replaced the chassis with M2C, braces with aluminum and towers with titanium. All of them were replacing broken or bent pieces. Now structurally, it holds up pretty good, doesn't way a whole lot more than my ERBEv2.

My OEM outcast 6s body was replaced with probodyrc after a year and a lot of plastic bits and rivets to keep it together. I've since also put that on my other 2 main bashers, slampede 4x4 and ERBEv2.

[RJUK]

Yeah, I come from Arrma, as my first truck getting back into RC was a Senton. Plastic chassis on that though. Great little truck.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

[Gripdog7205]

Installed



New 2 piece shaft setup. Nice kit. Good tolerances.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CrazyXMAXX]

Right wear ya want the center shaft able to flex
Put a bearing
Perfect

Best choice ever

[RJUK]

Installed



New 2 piece shaft setup. Nice kit. Good tolerances.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which one is that?

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

[Gripdog7205]

Right wear ya want the center shaft able to flex
Put a bearing
Perfect

Best choice ever

Sarcasm?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gripdog7205]

Which one is that?

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

2 piece system. Apparently Kevin torture tested it, and Flux knows a guy who
Destroyed his truck but the shaft was good upon removal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Flux Capacitor]

2 piece system. Apparently Kevin torture tested it, and Flux knows a guy who
Destroyed his truck but the shaft was good upon removal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correct.

This is kind of the follow up video to the one that was posted in post #2 of this thread. At the three minute mark, he is removing the shaft from a truck that was using the center shaft kit that had extensive damage and he also rolls the shaft to show that it remained straight.

The funny thing is, after this video started to gain some traction, the guy selling this kit that you linked, sold out of them!




And at the 14 minute mark, he pulls his classic loading technique of his rebuilt X-Maxx.

I noticed you got the black colored center piece also. That was the color I received too. I really didn't care if it was pink to tell you the truth because you can't see the piece anyway when the center skid is on!

[Gripdog7205]

Sarcasm?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m gonna assume so, and say aluminum doesn’t want a flex point(not like it will return to its original shape), so that’s what this eliminates. Makes perfect sense if you consider what it’s doing. I’d say a shaft that’s relatively half the length of stock stands much less of a chance of bending. It’s a problem that’s plagued X-Maxx owners. Glad folks are thinking of alternatives, instead of run, break, repair attitude.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Flux Capacitor]

I’m gonna assume so, and say aluminum doesn’t want a flex point(not like it will return to its original shape), so that’s what this eliminates. Makes perfect sense if you consider what it’s doing. I’d say a shaft that’s relatively half the length of stock stands much less of a chance of bending. It’s a problem that’s plagued X-Maxx owners. Glad folks are thinking of alternatives, instead of run, break, repair attitude.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will have to admit I was at first skeptical myself and ended up eating my own words from my first reply in this thread. It wasn't without good cause to be skeptical because some of the things that I had purchased for the X-Maxx were gimmicks and didn't solve real world problems.

In this particular case with this kit, what appears to look like a weak design, is actually a pretty darn solid setup.

So, Thank You again Gripdog for sharing your find with the forum!

[Gripdog7205]

I will have to admit I was at first skeptical myself and ended up eating my own words from my first reply in this thread. It wasn't without good cause to be skeptical because some of the things that I had purchased for the X-Maxx were gimmicks and didn't solve real world problems.

In this particular case with this kit, what appears to look like a weak design, is actually a pretty darn solid setup.

So, Thank You again Gripdog for sharing your find with the forum!

You’re welcome, just trying to be a help. If mine is an issue I’ll eat my words and go back to my upgraded billet shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CrazyXMAXX]

Get the stock center shaft in your hands
See how much it flexes
All Original shafts still spinning here
Traxxas Research and development
stock center shafts for all my Xmaxx’s

Run what ya brung