New motor and upgrades going to try to put in this weekend

[mag1]

Wound up going to a different LHS to get the slipper clutch upgrade and wound up with all this.
They didnt have the mount for the esc or the headz motor mount. Hoping these shafts are on par w the mip ones. Goin in my slash ultimate

High torque 400 servo tra2255
5362r
5351
Rpm body mounts
Traxxas front and rear driveshafts steel spline 9051x 9052x

Clear gear cover 6877a
18 and 19t 5mm pinion
Spare rpm back and front A arms
Castle mamba x 1512 2650 combo

Anything else needed with the above parts?

[Invincibl]

You Might need to upgrade diffs due to the Mamba X. Probably X01 Diffs

[El Sob]

You Might need to upgrade diffs due to the Mamba X. Probably X01 Diffs

The differentials will hold up for while. Don't let that hinder building your truck.

[fortunespoonz]

The differentials will hold up for while. Don't let that hinder building your truck.

Agreed. Do this upgrade when needed.

I always use alum. bearing carriers. Not a need, but a preference.

[mag1]

I cant tighten the slipper nut to make the clutch stay together. Seems like it needs a spacer?


I got it. Pin was in wrong hole..

[Panther6834]

I cant tighten the slipper nut to make the clutch stay together. Seems like it needs a spacer?


I got it. Pin was in wrong hole..

Instead of 'upgrading' the slipper to a Revo slipper, have you considered replacing the slipper with a center diff? There's two routes you can go. The first is TRA6780, which is all metal, including the spur. While designed for the Hoss, it can also be used in the Sl4sh, R4sty, & 4Pede. I've been running ones in my R4sty for over a year to without problems. As you already know, I've been running a 4100kV motor, and that center diff had been fantastic. The second option would be to get the 'standard' center diff (TRA6814), which uses a plastic spur, and replace the diff cup with the HR machined aluminum diff case (HRASLF25H). The 'up' side of the first is that it's virtually bulletproof. The (possible) 'down' side is the metal spur, as the spur is no longer there "weakest link". As for the second option, one 'plus' is that it comes with 54T, 52T, & 50T spurs, so you'd already be set to test out what we already discussed.

Getting back to the parts you mentioned, above, I still say the RPM arms are not a good choice...too flexible. The Traxxas HD arms are not only better than the 'standard' arms, but also better than the RPM arms. I'm in agreement about upgrading to the aluminum carriers (TRA1952) & steering knuckles (TRA6837). I'd also suggest the aluminum caster blocks (TRA6832).

As for the CVDs, they're great (possibly a very minor step below the MIP X-Duty, but better than the Tekno M6)...I've been running them on my R4sty (with that outgoing 4100kV motor...to be replaced (as you already know) with the same combo you installing) for almost 2 years, and the worst problem I've had was one of the stub axles snapping right where the hex pin goes through the stub...and that was only because another racer slammed his vehicle into that wheel.

Well, I'll let you get to installing those new electronics. Mine will be arriving today, but I can't yet so the swap, as the new STRC electronics mounting plate won't be delivered for a few days.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[mag1]

Traxxas upgrades for ultimate slash by J K, on Flickr

[mag1]

yes buddy I have. I had it in my hand yesterday at the hobby shop and decided to just do the slipper upgrade. I finally got the upgrade slipper in today and put on the 11t gear, and ran 2s stock motor. Man forgot how fast this thing is just on 2s. Didnt get a change to run 3s, I was running late for work.
I have to go back to the hobby shop again, not the one where I got the motor (Parkflyers RC in lakewood..great owner), but the shop where I got the pinion gears.. they gave me a pinion that says only run with a metal spur. THis is the 3rd time where I went there and they sold me wrong parts, hobbytown in toms river i am getting sick of. the clear motor gasket doesnt fit the slash ultimate, I told them but they said it would..Happy just a couple cheap parts they keep messing up. BUt its my fault also, I should of know exactly what I needed, but im so new at this..

I would like to install the cvds tonite if I can.
going to order the King Headz motor plate and some more gears for 5mm. I think my sons max needed something else for the widemaxx kit.
Ill grab some traxxas HD arms also and keep all of them.
For the aluminum parts I thought the Ultimate had some of those? Or just other upgraded aluminum parts?

Thank you very much for the advice and help

[Squeegie]

FYI: You purchased a clear gear cover, but said that your Slash 4x4 is an Ultimate. That means that it is a LCG chassis and cannot use use that gear cover... unless your Ultimate Edition is an old one that predates the newer LCG Ultimates.

Also, Is that Widemaxx kit for the Slash? Does it fit?

[Panther6834]

The King Headz motor mount I'd fantastic...especially with its larger bearing. Not only have I been running that in the same R4sty, but I've also installed one in the other R4sty I'm converting to the E-buggy. As for the slipper vs center diff, while I installed the XO-1 center diff in the E-buggy conversion, I've actually been running the Robinson Racing Slipper Unit in this one. It has a hardened steel 54T spur, which I've been quite happy with...but, with the same electronics swap coming up, I decided to remove that slipper unit, and return to a plastic spur.

The HR aluminum diff case I mentioned arrived a few days ago, but the TRA6814 center diff didn't arrive until yesterday. This morning, I disassembled it, thoroughly cleaned all the parts (ok, so I only did a half-assed job on the plastic diff cup, but only because it's being bagged & stored), and rebuilt the diff inside the HR cup. Instead of the 100K diff fluid, as used by traxxas, I went with 125K...and, instead of the 54T spur, I'll be starting with the 52T. Here's what it looks like put together:
For the front, I haven't decided whether to go 30K, 50K, or 80K, but it'll be a huge jump from the current (which is either 10K, or 15K...I forget). As for the rear, I no some go 1M+, while others go as low as 200K. I have neither 200K or 300K...so, I'm thinking of doing my own blend. I've got 100K, 125K, & 500K to work with (technically, I also have 2.5M, but that's for the rear diff in the Losi Baja Rey, and any other "larger" vehicles I might get - I've "got my eye" on the Traxxas UDR or Losi DBXL-E 2.0). If I do a 50/50 blend of 100K/500K, it'll be approx 300K...and, if 125K/500K, it'll be approx 312,500. Just curious, but, what did you decide on for the front/rear?

~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Panther6834]

FYI: You purchased a clear gear cover, but said that your Slash 4x4 is an Ultimate. That means that it is a LCG chassis and cannot use use that gear cover... unless your Ultimate Edition is an old one that predates the newer LCG Ultimates.

Also, Is that Widemaxx kit for the Slash? Does it fit?

If I recall correctly, the Widemaxx kit is for his daughter's Maxx.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[mag1]

FYI: You purchased a clear gear cover, but said that your Slash 4x4 is an Ultimate. That means that it is a LCG chassis and cannot use use that gear cover... unless your Ultimate Edition is an old one that predates the newer LCG Ultimates.

Also, Is that Widemaxx kit for the Slash? Does it fit?

yea the idiot told me it fits the slash.. it doesnt..

the widemaxx kit is for my kids maxx. figure im spending thundered, i can get him a 50 dollar upgrade lol..

[mag1]

The King Headz motor mount I'd fantastic...especially with its larger bearing. Not only have I been running that in the same R4sty, but I've also installed one in the other R4sty I'm converting to the E-buggy. As for the slipper vs center diff, while I installed the XO-1 center diff in the E-buggy conversion, I've actually been running the Robinson Racing Slipper Unit in this one. It has a hardened steel 54T spur, which I've been quite happy with...but, with the same electronics swap coming up, I decided to remove that slipper unit, and return to a plastic spur.

The HR aluminum diff case I mentioned arrived a few days ago, but the TRA6814 center diff didn't arrive until yesterday. This morning, I disassembled it, thoroughly cleaned all the parts (ok, so I only did a half-assed job on the plastic diff cup, but only because it's being bagged & stored), and rebuilt the diff inside the HR cup. Instead of the 100K diff fluid, as used by traxxas, I went with 125K...and, instead of the 54T spur, I'll be starting with the 52T. Here's what it looks like put together:
For the front, I haven't decided whether to go 30K, 50K, or 80K, but it'll be a huge jump from the current (which is either 10K, or 15K...I forget). As for the rear, I no some go 1M+, while others go as low as 200K. I have neither 200K or 300K...so, I'm thinking of doing my own blend. I've got 100K, 125K, & 500K to work with (technically, I also have 2.5M, but that's for the rear diff in the Losi Baja Rey, and any other "larger" vehicles I might get - I've "got my eye" on the Traxxas UDR or Losi DBXL-E 2.0). If I do a 50/50 blend of 100K/500K, it'll be approx 300K...and, if 125K/500K, it'll be approx 312,500. Just curious, but, what did you decide on for the front/rear?

~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

good looking

[TwoBelugas]

FYI: You purchased a clear gear cover, but said that your Slash 4x4 is an Ultimate. That means that it is a LCG chassis and cannot use use that gear cover... unless your Ultimate Edition is an old one that predates the newer LCG Ultimates.

This is how one knows squeegie is the resident slash-encyclopedia. Lol. I didn’t even notice that.

[Panther6834]

This is how one knows squeegie is the resident slash-encyclopedia. Lol. I didn’t even notice that.

When it comes to computers, or most "technical" things, I tend to notice things no one else ever would. When it comes to anything Slash-related, Squeegie probably noticed things no one else ever would.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Invincibl]

The differentials will hold up for while. Don't let that hinder building your truck.

Do you know how long they will hold up for? I want to see if I can spend a bit less and upgrade them later

[TwoBelugas]

Do you know how long they will hold up for? I want to see if I can spend a bit less and upgrade them later

The easier you are on the throttle the longer they last.

[El Sob]

Traxxas upgrades for ultimate slash by J K, on Flickr

I'm about to order the new CV axles myself. When you get them installed please let me know how you like them

[mag1]

Rocknroll by J K, on Flickr


Found this locally and picked it up

[mag1]

Upgraded slipper clutch and new driveshafts installed...

New hd driveshaft by J K, on Flickr

[mag1]

new 400 servo in.. need the better servo horn now, forgot to get it.
Is there anything I need to do to line up the new horn? And does it look like the servo is in the right way?

Servi by J K, on Flickr

Servi by J K, on Flickr

[Panther6834]

Is there anything I need to do to line up the new horn? And does it look like the servo is in the right way?

Easiest way to do that is to first attach the bellcrank steering turnbuckles to the horn (don't forget Loctite when using Aluminum horns). Then, with the servo mounted into the vehicle, the entire front of the vehicle fully assembled (except for the front bumper...it's better to have that removed for right now), and the servo horn NOT attached to the servo, turn the transmitter on, then the vehicles on. The servo will 'center' itself almost immediately.

The next step you must do carefully (ESPECIALLY if still using a plastic horn). With the vehicle on, and the servo 'centered', manually maneuver the front wheels to be as straight as possible. Once the wheels/tires are as straight as possible, CAREFULLY maneuver the horn into position, and CAREFULLY press it into the servo, but do NOT attach the screw to hold the horn onto the servo...then, make sure the wheels/tires are still (fairly) straight. If they're too far to the left/right, remove the horn, and slightly rotate it, so that, when you side it back into the servo, it'll have only moved 1 tooth. Check the wheels/tires again for straightness. If they're straighter, fantastic...and, if worse, CAREFULLY put the horn back into the servo add it was the first time, and recheck. In other words, find the servo position that has the wheels/tires as close to 'straight' as possible.

Now, turn the vehicle off, then transmitter off. NOW you can finally attach the screw, to hold the horn to the servo...and, again, use Loctite, but use as minimal amount as possible, as you DON'T want any Loctite to accidentally get inside the servo. Finally...this is the HARDEST part...wait 24 hours before running the vehicles, as you need to give the Loctite enough time to set/dry. Like I said, "the hardest part" - waiting.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Squeegie]

By looking at your photo, the servo horn is upside down.. It should by pointing up, not down. Also, set your Tx's steering trim to "0" and turn the system on. This will center your servo. Once centered, mount the servo horn to the servo one tooth off-center (about 1:00).

See the video by our member iftbashir and watch from about 2:45 to see what I am talking about:



Good luck!

[olds97_lss]

The easier you are on the throttle the longer they last.

In a slash, on 3S, they should hold up fine really, but best to get the i-bar/spiders with proper output shafts and hd cups. I made the mistake and got the wrong outdrives for mine.

I run my on 4S with a 4074 2200kv/150A esc in my stampede with 3.8" LP tires. With smaller/lighter slash wheels/tires, the diffs should hold up for a while without doing anything. I ran mine pretty good for a couple packs on 4S without issue, but upgraded anyway to toughen it up as much as I could.

This is the i-bar/spider kit I should have bought 6882X:
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-6882X.../dp/B007KMPOTI

With these cups:
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Heavy.../dp/B000XQ5CLS

[Invincibl]

In a slash, on 3S, they should hold up fine really, but best to get the i-bar/spiders with proper output shafts and hd cups. I made the mistake and got the wrong outdrives for mine.

I run my on 4S with a 4074 2200kv/150A esc in my stampede with 3.8" LP tires. With smaller/lighter slash wheels/tires, the diffs should hold up for a while without doing anything. I ran mine pretty good for a couple packs on 4S without issue, but upgraded anyway to toughen it up as much as I could.

This is the i-bar/spider kit I should have bought 6882X:
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-6882X.../dp/B007KMPOTI

With these cups:
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Heavy.../dp/B000XQ5CLS

Don't need anything else? not the ring gear?
Also would X-01 diffs come with the same outdrives?

[olds97_lss]

The parts I listed would work for both the front and rear diffs on a stampede/slash with the stock axle sliders or the MIP X-Duty versions (I have those).

The mistake I made was ordering this:
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5382X.../dp/B000XQ3GJ8

Notice the output shafts aren't milled down to the smaller stampede/slash size. The ERBEv1 uses them and that's what I ordered, I didn't realized they differed at the time.

These are milled down where the axle screws on:
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-6882X.../dp/B007KMPOTI

Looking at the parts explosion for the X01, it uses the same as the stampede/slash do with the milled down output shafts, 6882X.
https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...20Assembly.jpg

The ring gear, bearings, pinion I think are the same, but there are upgraded ones you can buy for that as well. They are machined vs sintered and helical cut vs straight cut. I still have the standard straight cut ones on my stampede.

https://traxxas.com/products/parts/6879R
https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5379R

I misspoke in my PM to you. I said I didn't know if the X01 used the same gear/shaft or not, but then I looked at the exploded view to confirm that it did and forgot to edit my text to you. Sorry about that.

[Invincibl]

Will the ring gear make a difference in speed? do they have a different number of teeth?
also do you recommend I get the upgraded outdrives?

[olds97_lss]

Will the ring gear make a difference in speed? do they have a different number of teeth?
also do you recommend I get the upgraded outdrives?

As far as I know, the upgraded ring/pinions are just machined and helical cut to make them stronger with the same gear ratio.

The outdrives come with the diff internals that use the i-bar like the X-01. I'm assuming the gear part is a bit lower profile or something to fit the i-bar inside. So if you get the i-bar upgrade, the outdrives come with it. The i-bar helps disperse the load on the two spider gears.

[mag1]

Thanks for the info and video. watched a couple of times.
Bought the metal steering horn today, 8247X gonna put on tonite.
also bought the RPM front bumper/skidplate

90 percent decided i want to put on 2.8 belted trenchers.
So i need to switch to 17mm. I have the steel traxxas cvds.
Not sure how to do it. Traxxas tells me its too advanced for them, and proline taking ticket orders but want proof of purchase.
Looks like mip or hot racing 17mm adapters maybe?

Also the horn didnt fit. Wrong part🤦🏻*♂️

[Panther6834]

90 percent decided i want to put on 2.8 belted trenchers.
So i need to switch to 17mm. I have the steel traxxas cvds.
Not sure how to do it. Traxxas tells me its too advanced for them, and proline taking ticket orders but want proof of purchase.
Looks like mip or hot racing 17mm adapters maybe?

All you need is the Traxxas 17mm adapter set - TRA6856X. Alternately, there's the MIP version (MIP10115), the STRC version (SPTST1654-17, available in different colors), and others (some good, some cheap/crappy).


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[mag1]

All you need is the Traxxas 17mm adapter set - TRA6856X. Alternately, there's the MIP version (MIP10115), the STRC version (SPTST1654-17, available in different colors), and others (some good, some cheap/crappy).


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

OK BUDDY.. going to order them...thank you

Got these parts today.. The shop only had enough for one diff. I should be good right?

Also did a lame speed run.
On 3s with 11t pinion stock motor and esc. 45mph.
2s was 30mph..
ill upload to youtube.

https://youtu.be/cnSxmqTcohw

Untitled by J K, on Flickr

[olds97_lss]

Got these parts today.. The shop only had enough for one diff. I should be good right?

Also did a lame speed run.
On 3s with 11t pinion stock motor and esc. 45mph.
2s was 30mph..
ill upload to youtube.

https://youtu.be/cnSxmqTcohw

Untitled by J K, on Flickr

Just avoid landing on power and you should be ok until you get the other diff upgraded.

[mag1]

Just avoid landing on power and you should be ok until you get the other diff upgraded.

im ordering a bunch of stuff tonite online. I cant find the king headz motor mount or metal servo horn anywhere local.
excited about the tires and hubs.
This is more exciting than my knife and gun collection.. ammo is out of control right now, so Ill stick to trial and error with the slash and maxx. alot cheaper..

When I hook up the castle motor and esc, will I be able to still run traxxas telemetry?

[Panther6834]

im ordering a bunch of stuff tonite online. I cant find the king headz motor mount or metal servo horn anywhere local.
excited about the tires and hubs.
This is more exciting than my knife and gun collection.. ammo is out of control right now, so Ill stick to trial and error with the slash and maxx. alot cheaper..

When I hook up the castle motor and esc, will I be able to still run traxxas telemetry?

Uncertain, in regards to telemetry. As for the XO-1 diffs (once you get the secondl, you'll greatly appreciate them...ESPECIALLY under the power we're both running. I can't remember whether, or not, you've already upgraded the driveshafts...but, if not, don't forget those - either Traxxas CVDs, or MIP X-Duty. Something I discovered is that 54T spur is the smallest that can be used with standard motor plate...that's why I ordered a different plate that repairing the motor centered above the spur.

As for collecting firearms, I know nothing...but, I DO enjoy collecting sharp, pointy things.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Invincibl]

Just to confirm, ,If I just upgrade the Diff Internals to X_01 diffs, the rig gear shouldn't be a problem running 4s on a 1/8 system right?

[Panther6834]

Just to confirm, ,If I just upgrade the Diff Internals to X_01 diffs, the rig gear shouldn't be a problem running 4s on a 1/8 system right?

Mostly correct. Again, you also need the correct diff cases, as the XO-1 diff gears don't fit (as far as I remember) into the stock Sl4sh/R4sty diff case. Also, on 4S, you WILL want/need the 'beefier' Traxxas CVD, or MIP X-Duty, driveshafts.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Invincibl]

Mostly correct. Again, you also need the correct diff cases, as the XO-1 diff gears don't fit (as far as I remember) into the stock Sl4sh/R4sty diff case. Also, on 4S, you WILL want/need the 'beefier' Traxxas CVD, or MIP X-Duty, driveshafts.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Ok! Thanks for the help

Do i need to get the Longer screws that OP bought? Or is that for something else?

Ive need to get the Diff Case and internals
I have MIPS

[Double G]

Ok! Thanks for the help

Do i need to get the Longer screws that OP bought? Or is that for something else?

Ive need to get the Diff Case and internals
I have MIPS

Review this to compare/contrast the Slash and XO-1 diffs:
https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-ML-121120.pdf

[Invincibl]

So I need the longer screw right?

[olds97_lss]

So I need the longer screw right?

I don't know... I know I used new screws with mine, but I have a lot of various lengths on hand. So I used the longest I could I think. That's what I usually do with diffs. Especially when they are 2mm hex. They tend to strip after installing/removing once or twice.