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  1. #1
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    Best upgrades for 1/16 e revo

    Hey all, so my friend and I both just purchased 1/16 Erevos. I need to be quicker and handle better than him so I can beat him on all terrains. What are the best upgrades to achieve this? I need better handling and if thereís a way to keep the front wheels on the ground without losing power that would be great. I have tea as 3s lipo batteries already. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Get the center diff upgrade and put new diff fluid in all of your diffs. Since you're running 3s I would definitely get a motor heat sink and a esc fan if you can find one. Those things are basic upgrades that you should get. There are many other upgrades you can get but I would start out with those.

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  3. #3
    RC Qualifier ThatTraxxas's Avatar
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    2 things that donít change speed but prevent breakdowns are rpm a arms, and a Savox metal gear servo. You will also want proline sandpaws or trenchers and a heatsink for 3s, like Extremercing said you want the center diff and different fluid. You will NEED a wheelie bar or the 3s will just make it do standing backflips.
    Hope this helps!
    1/16 E-Revo VXL, Bandit XL-5 Just Gonna Send It!!

  4. #4
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    Is the traxxas center diff the recommended one to run or is there a better one? I have already ordered rpm a arms and the new servo. I’ll look into a heat sink for the motor. Thanks.

  5. #5
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    Here's my list in order of priority:

    Required:
    1. Center Differential (leave stock diff oil in it which is 50k wt) (allows power to all wheels better and more efficiently)
    2. Hot Racing Sway Bars (Keeps it from rolling over every time you turn)
    3. Heatsink and high RPM fan on both ESC and motor (you will overheat on 3s LiPos without these)
    4. Blue/Purple Summit springs on Front/Rear respectively
    5. Metal or GTR shocks to prevent blown shock tops
    6. Aluminum Hubs for all wheels
    6. Bearings instead of stock bushings for all suspension rockers
    7. Metal hollow balls to replace stock plastic ones

    Optional (but good to have):
    1. RPM A-arms
    2. Metal axle shafts (front/rear)
    3. T-Bone Chassis Brace

  6. #6
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    Along with what has already been recommended, add shims to your front and rear differentials and replace the plastic center drive shaft with a metal one.

  7. #7
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    If you wan't better traction off-road you can look into the Pro-Line Trencher 2.2 tires, I have them, and I really like them, they provide way better traction than the stock ones. Another good upgrade for handling as others have said are sway bars, which reduce the car's tendency to roll over.

  8. #8
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    I'm trying so hard to locate the parts you listed, but some of them... I think I have wrong. Can you please update with links? Like Axle Shafts. What are aluminum hubs vs axle shafts? And the heatseak/esc high rpm fan. Would be super helpful if you updated with links! Or at least part numbers to search for.

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  10. #10
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    Leopard LBP2845 4110KV 4pole shaft 3,17mm
    You need to flat down that shaft


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  11. #11
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    So I did a bunch of upgrades to it. I put on a savox servo with the metal gears and bearings in the steering but I’ve noticed the front tires don’t stay straight and kick side to side and sometimes turns on it’s own. Is there something wrong with the receiver that would cause that? The servo also seems very loud while it’s just sitting there. And I installed the center Differential and now it seems to not be as fast and the front tires are spinning as it’s going by and ballooning up would thicker diff fluid solve this issue? Thanks!

  12. #12
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duster1972 View Post
    So I did a bunch of upgrades to it. I put on a savox servo with the metal gears and bearings in the steering but Iíve noticed the front tires donít stay straight and kick side to side and sometimes turns on itís own. Is there something wrong with the receiver that would cause that? The servo also seems very loud while itís just sitting there. And I installed the center Differential and now it seems to not be as fast and the front tires are spinning as itís going by and ballooning up would thicker diff fluid solve this issue? Thanks!
    The steering will turn back and forth if you have TSM. If you have a TSM transmitter/receiver try turning TSM off. The multi-function knob should control the amount of TSM percentage is on. Turning the knob to zero should turn it off.

    Thicker diff fluid will help with the front tires ballooning and help give you back some power.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duster1972 View Post
    So I did a bunch of upgrades to it. I put on a savox servo with the metal gears and bearings in the steering but Iíve noticed the front tires donít stay straight and kick side to side and sometimes turns on itís own. Is there something wrong with the receiver that would cause that? The servo also seems very loud while itís just sitting there. And I installed the center Differential and now it seems to not be as fast and the front tires are spinning as itís going by and ballooning up would thicker diff fluid solve this issue? Thanks!

    Like grizzly said turn down or turn off the TSM to see if that fixes the issue. The issues described by you are all related to TSM so that is the most likely answer.

    Adjusting the diff fluid in all three diffs is key to making that center diff work for you. If you ask the forum what weight to put in everyone will give you a different answer. I personally run 50k front, 30k center, and 10k rear. That's given me optimal traction on road and I'm sure I could make it more optimized but it works.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  14. #14
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    Is that what the adjustment knob next to the steering adjustment is? I never knew what it was for and this is my first rc truck in about 14 years so things have changed a bit lol

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier corneileous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatTraxxas View Post
    2 things that don’t change speed but prevent breakdowns are rpm a arms, and a Savox metal gear servo. You will also want proline sandpaws or trenchers and a heatsink for 3s, like Extremercing said you want the center diff and different fluid. You will NEED a wheelie bar or the 3s will just make it do standing backflips.
    Hope this helps!
    I was just going to start a thread about that steering servo on this car but where do you find that one and how does it compare in price to the metal-geared upgrade Traxxas has?

    I don’t know what Traxxas is doing with these stock servos that come on the 16th scale E Revos but my girlfriend’s son has gone through 3 of these servos. The first one started clicking real bad not even three weeks after we got it for him and the third brand new one I just put on there probably no more than a month, month and a half ago, has already started making that clicking sound as well.

    I know I stepped over the second one but I guess I don’t really count the second servo because In my opinion, I think that by adding that second new servo to this car to work in tandem with the other one is probably what messed it up too because there’s no way that I know of to tune and set the two servos up together exactly so that they’re not fighting against each other.


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    Edited for language abuse/bypassing the language filter.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-08-2021 at 02:28 AM.

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier ThatTraxxas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    I was just going to start a thread about that steering servo on this car but where do you find that one and how does it compare in price to the metal-geared upgrade Traxxas has?

    I don’t know what Traxxas is doing with these stock servos that come on the 16th scale E Revos but my girlfriend’s son has gone through 3 of these servos. The first one started clicking real bad not even three weeks after we got it for him and the third brand new one I just put on there probably no more than a month, month and a half ago, has already started making that clicking sound as well.

    I know I stepped over the second one but I guess I don’t really count the second servo because In my opinion, I think that by adding that second new servo to this car to work in tandem with the other one is probably what messed it up too because there’s no way that I know of to tune and set the two servos up together exactly so that they’re not fighting against each other.


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    I have the Traxxas metal one. The SavŲx is more powerful and I think faster. My plastic stock servo started clicking the 2nd outing! LOL

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/savox-s...0250mg/p301255
    I got my Traxxas servo for $50 Canadian dollars, ($39USD) the Savox is $30USD.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-08-2021 at 02:31 AM. Reason: modified quote
    1/16 E-Revo VXL, Bandit XL-5 Just Gonna Send It!!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatTraxxas View Post
    I have the Traxxas metal one. The SavŲx is more powerful and I think faster. My plastic stock servo started clicking the 2nd outing! LOL

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/savox-s...0250mg/p301255
    I got my Traxxas servo for $50 Canadian dollars, ($39USD) the Savox is $30USD.
    Still going strong with original stock servo after 5 months. What are you guys doing?

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier ThatTraxxas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    Still going strong with original stock servo after 5 months. What are you guys doing?
    Bashing, hitting stuff, bad landings, etc
    1/16 E-Revo VXL, Bandit XL-5 Just Gonna Send It!!

  19. #19
    RC Racer McCreary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    Still going strong with original stock servo after 5 months. What are you guys doing?
    Lol. Stock servo lasted over a year for me. I let a friend try it on 3s (I should've put it in training mode). He clipped the right rear tire of my Jeep with the right front tire of the Merv, at full speed. I guilted him into paying for a new Savox servo.
    That was the day I discovered how to get free upgrades.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    Still going strong with original stock servo after 5 months. What are you guys doing?
    Now I'm thinking I did something wrong. I broke the stock servo on my first run with the included NiMh battery.
    (In my defense, it was my first venture into brushless RC, and I ended up sending it into an unplanned cartwheel.)

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier ThatTraxxas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngelG619 View Post
    Now I'm thinking I did something wrong. I broke the stock servo on my first run with the included NiMh battery.
    (In my defense, it was my first venture into brushless RC, and I ended up sending it into an unplanned cartwheel.)
    You’re not alone! I can’t even count how many times I’ve done that!
    1/16 E-Revo VXL, Bandit XL-5 Just Gonna Send It!!

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier corneileous's Avatar
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    Her sonís not been too terribly rough with his car but in our experience, these servos ainít worth doodoo. I thought I could help the problem by buying him a new servo just like the OE one and hooking it up tandem with the other one but like I said earlier, since thereís no way I know of to exactly sync the two servos together, I think the second one got ruined just from using it with another servo. The third one, I just put it on there less than 3 weeks ago and itís already clicking.


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  23. #23
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    Links for all items:

    Required:
    1. Center Differential (leave stock diff oil in it which is 50k wt) (allows power to all wheels better and more efficiently)
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7014
    2. Hot Racing Sway Bars (Keeps it from rolling over every time you turn)
    https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=VXS311X01;c=455
    3. Heatsink and high RPM fan on both ESC and motor (you will overheat on 3s LiPos without these)
    ESC Fan: https://www.yeahracing.com/hacktroni...n-304-00038380
    Motor Fan: https://www.yeahracing.com/high-spee...-0327-00037450
    Heat Sink (trash the fan): https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?...8#.YED_tehKiLQ
    **Small note - the internal BEC cannot power all of these. You must wire directly to battery or wire to a secondary battery. I bought the power tap traxxas part and used it to modify.
    My own adapter (could have just wired to ESC plug):

    4. Blue/Purple Summit springs on Front/Rear respectively
    Purple: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7246
    Blue: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7245
    5. Metal or GTR shocks to prevent blown shock tops
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7061X
    6. Aluminum Hubs for all wheels
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-rac...SABEgIk__D_BwE
    6. Bearings instead of stock bushings for all suspension rockers
    Steering Bushing Replacement Bearings: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5114
    Rocker Bearings: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5124
    7. Metal hollow balls to replace stock plastic ones
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7028X

    Optional (but good to have):
    1. RPM A-arms
    https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a...e-mini-e-revo/
    https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a...e-mini-e-revo/
    2. Metal axle shafts (front/rear)
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-rac...SABEgL3OfD_BwE
    3. T-Bone Chassis Brace
    https://tboneracing.net/collections/...as-1-16-e-revo
    Last edited by halygon; 03-04-2021 at 11:17 AM.

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