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  1. #1
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    Red face New XMaxx Buyer - Initial Mods

    Hello Everyone!

    I have been into RC for years and took quite a large break from RC Trucks. I had gotten into the drone thing primarily about 6 years ago and am ready to dive back into RC Trucks. I have a couple of old Nitro Trucks that I haven't run in years and the new electric trucks have me kind of giddy. When I had seen the XMaxx, the little boy in me grinned from ear to ear. I don't want to say that money is not an issue, but I will be buying the XMaxx and some initial Mods/Accessories and I know how knowledgeable and awesome this community is for info. What are some of the best mods and accessories that I should purchase right away with the truck? I have been reading loads of reviews and realize that this truck has few weaknesses but am interested in potentially dressing up the truck with some things that may look cool but also add durability ie; metal shock caps etc. Also, should I be entertaining getting a beefier spare motor or things like esc upgrades? Thank you so much for anyone who has any suggestions! I look forward to being a part of the XMaxx community!

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    Welcome!

    I recently bought my own X-Maxx after having a couple other electric and nitro RCs. What surprised me the most is how little you have to do to this thing to feel comfortable with its durability (which is good because the parts are pricey).

    The stock servo is a bit on the weak side - I haven't replaced mine yet, but I have plans to in the near future. The 8s motor and esc are fine out of the box although you can upgrade if you feel the need/want.

    You should reinforce the body because this thing does everything bigger, which means landings too - so prepare for that.

    The only thing you will absolutely have to upgrade is the wheel carriers. The stock ones have smaller bearings that when you start getting a bit rough, will putt to much pressure on them. RPM sells front and rear oversized carriers and bearings that you can swap out pretty easily. I did this and would also recommend buying quality bearings at the same time from a different company because I wasn't happy with the RPM bearings myself.

    If you are going to get in snow or water, you might think of a screw kit to replace the stock screws that can rust easily with stainless steel or other material as a pre-emptive measure.

    As with any RC here, you can upgrade for endless hours but the above is what I would look at to start.

  3. #3
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    Thank you so much for the quick reply! Those items seem very simple and practical. I like it. I have never experienced an RC like what I am getting myself into here. I cant tell you how excited I am for this thing to arrive. One question about batteries. I did buy the traxxas kit "Traxxas EZ-Peak Live Dual ID Charger & 2x 4S 6700mAh LiPo Batteries for X-Maxx 8S" as it was discounted as part of a bundle. I noticed that some folks run 100C instead of these 50C batteries but would only want to buy quality. Are these batteries from Traxxas sufficient or should I think about getting some better quality 4S in a higher mah and higher C Rating?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody8771 View Post
    Thank you so much for the quick reply! Those items seem very simple and practical. I like it. I have never experienced an RC like what I am getting myself into here. I cant tell you how excited I am for this thing to arrive. One question about batteries. I did buy the traxxas kit "Traxxas EZ-Peak Live Dual ID Charger & 2x 4S 6700mAh LiPo Batteries for X-Maxx 8S" as it was discounted as part of a bundle. I noticed that some folks run 100C instead of these 50C batteries but would only want to buy quality. Are these batteries from Traxxas sufficient or should I think about getting some better quality 4S in a higher mah and higher C Rating?
    Quality wise, traxxas makes good batteries. They do make them however for their RCs, which means they build them to specs that meet the need of the stock vehicles. Higher C rating can give a bit more punch in some scenarios and definitely with aftermarket electronics, but the stock batteries will be more than fine to start off with.

    The good thing about Traxxas batteries though are that Traxxas support them thoroughly in the case anything happens with them.

  5. #5
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    Thats great information. I may just end up buying a 2 to 4 more of the 6700 4S and call it a day. Obviously, depending on how long it takes for me to get the itch to upgrade motor/esc it may require different power but as you say, should be great to start with. What kind of runtime do you think I can expect out of those batteries on a single charge? 25 Minutes?

  6. #6
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    I’d assume 30-40 min
    1/16 E-Revo VXL, Bandit XL-5 Just Gonna Send It!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody8771 View Post
    Thats great information. I may just end up buying a 2 to 4 more of the 6700 4S and call it a day. Obviously, depending on how long it takes for me to get the itch to upgrade motor/esc it may require different power but as you say, should be great to start with. What kind of runtime do you think I can expect out of those batteries on a single charge? 25 Minutes?
    Good idea to also look into SMC batteries. Very good quality and great warranty.

    http://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?...ory&path=67_96

  8. #8
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    Wow, much better than I anticipated! Thank you!

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    Thank you for the suggestion! I will look their also!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody8771 View Post
    Wow, much better than I anticipated! Thank you!
    Yes, very good specs. I own 12 of the graphene 9700mah. They perform flawlessly and hold up well.

    Multiple other guys here prefer and run SMC also.

    If and when you order, there will also be an option for what type connector you would like. They offer a TRX style connector that’s compatible with the stock Traxxas ESC connectors on your Xmaxx.

  11. #11
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    Re: afreek1000 Well thats awesome to know. Nice to protect warranty at least while it lasts. Thank you sir!
    Last edited by Cody8771; 02-10-2021 at 02:20 PM. Reason: Reply

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    Welcome!

    I recently bought my own X-Maxx after having a couple other electric and nitro RCs. What surprised me the most is how little you have to do to this thing to feel comfortable with its durability (which is good because the parts are pricey).

    The stock servo is a bit on the weak side - I haven't replaced mine yet, but I have plans to in the near future. The 8s motor and esc are fine out of the box although you can upgrade if you feel the need/want.

    You should reinforce the body because this thing does everything bigger, which means landings too - so prepare for that.

    The only thing you will absolutely have to upgrade is the wheel carriers. The stock ones have smaller bearings that when you start getting a bit rough, will putt to much pressure on them. RPM sells front and rear oversized carriers and bearings that you can swap out pretty easily. I did this and would also recommend buying quality bearings at the same time from a different company because I wasn't happy with the RPM bearings myself.

    If you are going to get in snow or water, you might think of a screw kit to replace the stock screws that can rust easily with stainless steel or other material as a pre-emptive measure.

    As with any RC here, you can upgrade for endless hours but the above is what I would look at to start.
    Out of interest, what was your issue with the wheel bearings from RPM? And what did you replace them with?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Out of interest, what was your issue with the wheel bearings from RPM? And what did you replace them with?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    The bearings do not come with lubricant in them, which is fine as I just have to add my own, but in two of the four (between front carriers and rear) bearings I received they did not have a smooth motion and looking in them when I was adding lubricant, I could see they were not very secure on the track. I sent my feedback to RPM already, so maybe they will fix it -- dunno.

    Anyways, I just bought a stack of 10 bearings of that size from Fast Eddy, which are cheap-ish but decent. They are also pre-lubricated. Figured I could buy them in bulk and change them out whenever I needed to.

  14. #14
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    Like others mentioned, the rear hub carriers need replaced in order to get that bigger bearing back there. One of my stock tires got a huge hole in it on the second run from ballooning... the tires were vented too and that was on 18/50 gearing. I replaced the tires with duratrax 24mm lock up x belted tires and they are fantastic. What I did straight out of the box was grease up all of the bearings with red n tacky grease. Then I filled the differentials with fluid of my choice. 100k front and rear, 20 million in the center. The diffs come pretty empty from the factory. Other than that, if you want more speed get a 20t pinion gear and 50t spur gear.


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  15. #15
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    RPM has a 2 foot jump warranty on bearing carriers
    Earl Moorehead YouTube channel proof
    fabricator

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXMAXX View Post
    RPM has a 2 foot jump warranty on bearing carriers
    Earl Moorehead YouTube channel proof
    Havenít seen this guy Earl, mildly funny had a few chuckles. But I agree with him the front RPM carrier pins will sometimes pop out I find this annoying but not a showstopper.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    Welcome!

    I recently bought my own X-Maxx after having a couple other electric and nitro RCs. What surprised me the most is how little you have to do to this thing to feel comfortable with its durability (which is good because the parts are pricey).

    The stock servo is a bit on the weak side - I haven't replaced mine yet, but I have plans to in the near future. The 8s motor and esc are fine out of the box although you can upgrade if you feel the need/want.

    You should reinforce the body because this thing does everything bigger, which means landings too - so prepare for that.

    The only thing you will absolutely have to upgrade is the wheel carriers. The stock ones have smaller bearings that when you start getting a bit rough, will putt to much pressure on them. RPM sells front and rear oversized carriers and bearings that you can swap out pretty easily. I did this and would also recommend buying quality bearings at the same time from a different company because I wasn't happy with the RPM bearings myself.

    If you are going to get in snow or water, you might think of a screw kit to replace the stock screws that can rust easily with stainless steel or other material as a pre-emptive measure.

    As with any RC here, you can upgrade for endless hours but the above is what I would look at to start.
    Is there any chance I could have you link the correct hub carriers and bearings? I don't know which oversize bearings to purchase that go along with the RPM Carriers. I am a relative rookie when it comes to the new stuff in the world of RC trucks. I did order a SS Screw kit. The body I am hearing to do Shooglu and Drywall Tape? Anything better? Thank you!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody8771 View Post
    Is there any chance I could have you link the correct hub carriers and bearings? I don't know which oversize bearings to purchase that go along with the RPM Carriers. I am a relative rookie when it comes to the new stuff in the world of RC trucks. I did order a SS Screw kit. The body I am hearing to do Shooglu and Drywall Tape? Anything better? Thank you!
    Hereís the size bearing you would need

    20x32x7mm

    Nice alternative here: https://jimsbearings.com/products/20x32x7

    Quality bearings.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    Here’s the size bearing you would need

    20x32x7mm

    Nice alternative here: https://jimsbearings.com/products/20x32x7

    Quality bearings.
    Should I do the RPM Oversize rear carriers in plastic and replace the front also? Or should I do aluminum all the way around? I am kind of against all of the aluminum A arms, chassis components, etc. In my experience they add weight and just make the stress points back onto the bulkheads and stuff cracking somewhere much worse than just an a arm or something. Aluminum can be beneficial in some places though just not sure which on this truck yet. Mine should be arriving on the weekend!!! Stoked!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody8771 View Post
    Should I do the RPM Oversize rear carriers in plastic and replace the front also? Or should I do aluminum all the way around? I am kind of against all of the aluminum A arms, chassis components, etc. In my experience they add weight and just make the stress points back onto the bulkheads and stuff cracking somewhere much worse than just an a arm or something. Aluminum can be beneficial in some places though just not sure which on this truck yet. Mine should be arriving on the weekend!!! Stoked!
    Yes, Iíd go RPM front & rear.

    https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a...raxxas-x-maxx/

    https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a...raxxas-x-maxx/

    Youíre correct though, good plastic flexes. Most aluminum parts just bend and stay in that position.

  21. #21
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    Here is the 10-pack of bearings I got: https://www.fasteddybearings.com/10-...ring-6804-2rs/

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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    Havenít seen this guy Earl, mildly funny had a few chuckles. But I agree with him the front RPM carrier pins will sometimes pop out I find this annoying but not a showstopper.
    They sell a screw kit that fixes that issue.

    If you want to use them on top in the front you need to melt the head into the arm a bit to clear the steering.

    I use them top and bottom on all 4 corners.


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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmarzke View Post
    They sell a screw kit that fixes that issue.

    If you want to use them on top in the front you need to melt the head into the arm a bit to clear the steering.

    I use them top and bottom on all 4 corners.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    That sounds very interesting. Could you attach a couple of photos of your setup? Thank you sir!

  24. #24
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    I think it would be sweet to set up a discord room for Traxxas forum members. Idk if the mods here would allow it but it'd be cool to have a defacto chatroom in real time. You guys have been awesome with all of the help! I ordered the 20t pinion and 50t spur tonight as well as the carriers, bearings, and HD Servo. Also splurged on the X-Maxx light kit, I'm just hoping it doesn't take too much run time away but I like to night run at times and will be cool at night with the go pro.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody8771 View Post
    I think it would be sweet to set up a discord room for Traxxas forum members. Idk if the mods here would allow it but it'd be cool to have a defacto chatroom in real time. You guys have been awesome with all of the help! I ordered the 20t pinion and 50t spur tonight as well as the carriers, bearings, and HD Servo. Also splurged on the X-Maxx light kit, I'm just hoping it doesn't take too much run time away but I like to night run at times and will be cool at night with the go pro.
    I run the stock servo with the metal gear kit from the HD model. The gears cost $35 and Makes for a decent backup.

    I would also pick up an aluminum steering horn. I stripped my original plastic one.

    I hear the wires on the light kit are small and fragile. Protect them carefully. They shouldnít impact your run time. They draw a tiny fraction of the current yer X draws on acceleration. It does look like a nice setup though. Give us a review once youíve lived with it a bit.

    Iím running 18/54 so you will have a bit of a speed advantage on me.

    Happy landings!


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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmarzke View Post
    I run the stock servo with the metal gear kit from the HD model. The gears cost $35 and Makes for a decent backup.

    I would also pick up an aluminum steering horn. I stripped my original plastic one.

    I hear the wires on the light kit are small and fragile. Protect them carefully. They shouldn’t impact your run time. They draw a tiny fraction of the current yer X draws on acceleration. It does look like a nice setup though. Give us a review once you’ve lived with it a bit.

    I’m running 18/54 so you will have a bit of a speed advantage on me.

    Happy landings!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I think what I'm going to do is shrink tube the wiring for the kit. I like how you can control the lights through the tq link on the app, part of the reason I splurged for the traxxas kit. I did see plenty of cheaper aftermarket kits but figured keep it traxxas as it looked optimized for the build. I will definitely let you guys know!
    Last edited by Cody8771; 02-11-2021 at 11:48 PM.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmarzke View Post
    They sell a screw kit that fixes that issue.

    If you want to use them on top in the front you need to melt the head into the arm a bit to clear the steering.

    I use them top and bottom on all 4 corners.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I apologize, guess I’m not being clear. Not talking about hingepins, I’m referring to (also Mr. Earl) the vertical steering knuckle pins. With the new RPM front steering knuckle carriers, sometimes the bottom vertical pin will pop a skew on hard landings.

  28. #28
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    Oh, so another weakness with an RPM "upgrade" part? So are they even worth having if they also have an issue? I've ordered a pair, but they seem to be delayed arriving in the UK. Might cancel if they have issues.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Oh, so another weakness with an RPM "upgrade" part? So are they even worth having if they also have an issue? I've ordered a pair, but they seem to be delayed arriving in the UK. Might cancel if they have issues.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

    Worth having, yes. Even with their flaws itís far better than replacing steering knuckles every other run and blowing out bearings constantly. For the price I donít think itís that bad but yes wish there was a fix to this issue

  30. #30
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    Are people really blowing out steering knuckles that often though? I don't think even Kevin Talbot has been breaking them in any significant numbers?

    What actually happens with the pins then and would it be possible to modify it to fix the issue?

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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Are people really blowing out steering knuckles that often though? I don't think even Kevin Talbot has been breaking them in any significant numbers?

    What actually happens with the pins then and would it be possible to modify it to fix the issue?

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    I don’t think many people are having this issue, as of now. I’m just saying I’ve had it happen, and decided to remark on it since Earl Moorehead mentioned it also.

    Just something to watch out for. No product is perfect, as with RPM. They are hit or miss regarding RC parts. As in their rear hub carriers are a perfect design. They hardly ever fail. Now their A-arms.....I wouldn't be caught dead with em......too fexy (IMO)


    Now, as to what happens to the pin popping. Here’sa photo to illustrate.



    But rather than popping out cleanly like that. It will tear out the upper hole by the bearing, thus making it a chronic problem until you replace the piece.

    So far I have a tear but it hasn’t popped out again. Yet I don’t think I’ve beat on it hard enough. When the weather warms up I’ll be sure to do that and report back.
    Last edited by afreek1000; 02-12-2021 at 08:56 AM.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    I donít think many people are having this issue, as of now. Iím just saying Iíve had it happen, and decided to remark on it since Earl Moorehead mentioned it also.

    Just something to watch out for. No product is perfect, as with RPM. They are hit or miss regarding RC parts. As in their rear hub carriers are a perfect design. They hardly ever fail. Now their A-arms.....I wouldn't be caught dead with em......too fexy (IMO)


    Now, as to what happens to the pin popping. Hereísa photo to illustrate.



    But rather than popping out cleanly like that. It will tear out the upper hole by the bearing, thus making it a chronic problem until you replace the piece.

    So far I have a tear but it hasnít popped out again. Yet I donít think Iíve beat on it hard enough. When the weather warms up Iíll be sure to do that and report back.
    Ah, thanks for clarifying.

    I have only broken 1 steering knuckle in 4 years so I think I will avoid the RPM ones. I got a whole bag of inner bearings so I will just replace them beginning and mid way through summer. I hate breaking in the middle of a session.

    I prolly would have gone with the Traxxas HD arms if they had been around then.

    Wonder if threading a screw into there would hold better than the pin?


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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody8771 View Post
    Hello Everyone!

    I have been into RC for years and took quite a large break from RC Trucks. I had gotten into the drone thing primarily about 6 years ago and am ready to dive back into RC Trucks. I have a couple of old Nitro Trucks that I haven't run in years and the new electric trucks have me kind of giddy. When I had seen the XMaxx, the little boy in me grinned from ear to ear. I don't want to say that money is not an issue, but I will be buying the XMaxx and some initial Mods/Accessories and I know how knowledgeable and awesome this community is for info. What are some of the best mods and accessories that I should purchase right away with the truck? I have been reading loads of reviews and realize that this truck has few weaknesses but am interested in potentially dressing up the truck with some things that may look cool but also add durability ie; metal shock caps etc. Also, should I be entertaining getting a beefier spare motor or things like esc upgrades? Thank you so much for anyone who has any suggestions! I look forward to being a part of the XMaxx community!
    Hello

    The only immediate mods I would recommend are the inner bearings on the hub carriers. It probably won't take more than a few minutes before the first rubber seal pops off, unless Traxxas have improved them lately but I doubt it. You can either go with RPM, or just buy stock replacements from Avid RC. A lot of ppl think that the size of the bearing is the issue, but it's the build quality. I'm still on my first set of Avid bearings after one year of use, and still going strong. And they're only two dollars each! This way you can also replace both front and rear.

    Would also steer away from Traxxas batteries as they are way too expensive for what they are. SMC is a good alternative, probably the best if you live in the US. Other good batteries are Panthers and Heavy Duty's.

    Otherwise I would run stock until something breaks. PS: Don't get water inside the wheels.

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    Anyone know what the inner bearing specs are?

    I have RPM front hub carriers on order, but thinking I'll probably cancel the order now and just get some better inner bearings.

    I have the Proline rear carriers.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

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    Quick question, I got my new x-maxx and wow, incredible. Can't say enough. I did get some snow in it and picked most of it out but am not by my air compressor. Is it ok to stand it up and let the rest drip dry? Just want to make sure I'm not going to mess anything up. Also, should I vent the tires? I see some say yes and some say no as long as you're not driving in a ton of water. Should I do that even for just snow? And if you do vent the tires, do I have to cover the wheel vents afterward? Thank you all! What an awesome machine!

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    Plug vent holes in the rims never drill holes in your tires drip dry in the bathtub send it
    Last edited by Big androski; 02-14-2021 at 10:48 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody8771 View Post
    Quick question, I got my new x-maxx and wow, incredible. Can't say enough. I did get some snow in it and picked most of it out but am not by my air compressor. Is it ok to stand it up and let the rest drip dry? Just want to make sure I'm not going to mess anything up. Also, should I vent the tires? I see some say yes and some say no as long as you're not driving in a ton of water. Should I do that even for just snow? And if you do vent the tires, do I have to cover the wheel vents afterward? Thank you all! What an awesome machine!
    In my experience, the foams will get ruined anyway. They might last a little longer while plugged and not drilled, but water can still get in through cracks in the rim, a rift in the tire, etc. The sad reality is that these foams are trash and that you are better off making your own.

    You can use something like this https://www.foambymail.com/PRB/foam-round-bolsters.html. 8" diameter, 18" length. I have done this myself, and atm I'm driving with both stock and self-made foams in the snow (about ten runs so far). The stock foams keep getting worse, but the one's I made feel just like new.

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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    Thanks.

    Just cancelled the RPM front hub carriers. IMO, a bearing seal popping off is less of an issue than the hub carrier disintegrating and losing the pin. I'll just upgrade the bearings if it happens, as somebody else mentioned.

    Not sure about RPM parts. I have them front and rear bumper mounts and shock guards, but I'm not sure I'd trust them on structural parts, as it seems their plastics are too soft.

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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJUK View Post
    Thanks.

    Just cancelled the RPM front hub carriers. IMO, a bearing seal popping off is less of an issue than the hub carrier disintegrating and losing the pin. I'll just upgrade the bearings if it happens, as somebody else mentioned.

    Not sure about RPM parts. I have them front and rear bumper mounts and shock guards, but I'm not sure I'd trust them on structural parts, as it seems their plastics are too soft.

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
    Imo they're way too soft. I got a set of castors and hubs for my Rustler and i hated them. I didn't like the flex and how easy it was to over tighten the screws. You almost cant tell when the screw has seated.

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