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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Show your support! :-)

    Hey guys

    not sure where this will end, but thinking about supporting the body of a 2WD Slash.

    Variant 1: with bumpers
    Variant 2: no bumpers front and rear

    Would be cool if you could show me how you supported your body (roof, corners, front, rear, ...) and what you used to get some ideas.

    I was seeing some "bumper replacements made of foam", some people are building their own roll cage using a plastic hanger, some use dry wall tape (+shoe goo), some use foam inserts around the body mounts, ...
    I will give dry wall tape + UV curing acrylic a chance in the next 2-3 weeks.
    --> just a quick picture and brief explanation would be fine.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
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    No pics on hand right now, but I use the shoe goo and drywall tape. Did one body with drywall tape and flex seal, in an aerosol can, don't recommend that. It did make a difference, but had air pockets and had to lay it on pretty thick, so its heavy. Maybe I didn't have to go so thick, maybe I could have used a brush or something, too late now.
    I am interested in how the acrylic works for you. It being UV cured, I'd imagine it would be pretty tough, and hopefully flexible enough.
    I did see someone use small plastic kitchen cabinet door handles on the top of the body, which seems to help the road rash.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
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    The UV should be working fine. Shoe Goo has a Shore A of 80, 900% elongation. They don't state a modulus.
    I'll go a bit more flexible than the Sabic Lexan polycarb (modulus of ~2 GPa) that's typically used for the body. Let's see how that goes if it sticks well to the paint. Acrylics are quite wide in terms of properties and are more on the very low to medium modulus range in the plastic world.

    But beside working on the body itself, further supports would be really interesting for me!
    --> why adding layers to the body if you can do easier stuff like foam "underlayments" :-)

  4. #4
    RC Racer
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    On my Slash lid I used the Drywall tape, hot glue and Shoe goo. I taped the whole inside, everything. I then used hot glue here and there to make sure the tape didn't move around once I started using shoe goo. If you get the Shoe goo at Walmart that was the only place I found the large bottles of it. 3.5oz I think. I used 2 of them. Wear 2 gloves on each hand to keep them from breaking.
    3Rustler 2wd(VXL) 1Rustler 4x4VXL 1Slash VXL Fox

  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    Apr 2019
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    My go to is drywall tape and Shoe Goo. Gorilla duct tape works very well, too. Gorilla Clear Repair tape is also good. I use a blow dryer or heat gun to get it to conform to curves.

    I’m not sure UV curing acrylic would be right. It might be brittle. A family member tried some for a few light home repairs (drawer handles, etc) and the repairs didn’t last. Could be different products though.

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
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    I strongly assume all of you refer to those home depot UV repair kits when talking about brittle acrylics?
    If so: yeah, that's right! Background is that those materials should be able to withstand certain criteria like media resistance when someone is putting his cup into the dish washer. In addition they are creating that "aha" effect when you cure it in a second with a small pocket lamp. Doing so they need short polymer chains, meaning high cross linking, meaning stiff and brittle system. The dense network also implies a higher resistance to media and temperature impacts and also reduces an acrylic typical effect, the so called oxygen inhibition. And the stiff properties of those materials is also the reason why the standard go to examples for those repair sets are stiff and brittle materials like glass, ceramics, ... even seen a rubber being bonded with acrylics? nope...

    BUT:
    Working with adhesive in my job I know that acrylics are significantly wider in their properties. Think about your mobile phone: on the membrane of you speaker they're using UV curing acrylics as dampening. So you gotta match the "softness" of a silicone membrane to not stiffen it too much. Those materials feel softer than any play doh you ever had in your hands.
    So my choice will be on a material that has a lower modulus and similar elongation at break as polycarb. So the adhesive layer will be able to deform more than the body, but should still help to increase impact resistance :-)
    The only thing I'm worried about is that the adhesive might tear off the paint from the Lexan or that doesn't stick to it due to chemical compatibility on the surface :-)


    But I mean... everyone talks about body reinforcement. Don't you use any kind of foam dampers/ supports between the body mounts and body? no foam inserts on the bumpers? What about those body support frames that for example an e-revo has?
    things like this?

  7. #7
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Reinforcing or supporting the body has 2 compromises to consider, cost and weight. Weight reduces efficiency of the rig fast. Cost can defeat the purpose from the start. Brute force bodies and the Unbreakable bodies are the real solutions. Their costs are high but can be the last body you will buy if you like your rig to look the same, forever.

    I have explained how I increase the longevity of my bodies already in a couple of threads. I get about 3 times more time out of my bodies now for less than $10 each with about 200 grams of additional weight.

  8. #8
    RC Racer VisionSlash42's Avatar
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    All I have for body support on mine is medium-sized patches of duct tape between the posts and the body, and between the body and the nerf bars.

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