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Thread: Trusty Rusty

  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Trusty Rusty

    Hey yíall!

    I wanted to share ole Trusty Rusty with you. He ainít much to look at but he is rough and ready.
    Also I wanted to see if this new image hosting site works well. Was on Imgur but I donít like the upvote/downvote/comment section.





    Mods:
    Castle Creations 1515/2200kv motor
    Castle Creations Sidewinder 8th ESC
    17t pinion gear
    Traxxas 2250 steering servo
    MIP X-Duty rear driveshafts
    Tekno M6 front driveshafts
    T-Bone Racing wheelie bar
    RPM A-arms
    60wt shock oil front and rear
    Max rate (blue) springs front and rear with like all the preload shims they give you installed. Mostly in the rear.
    Proline MX28 Badlands
    17mm hexes in the rear (shattered the MIP 12mm hexes on 6S)
    Like 2/3 of the body remaining (the rest was destroyed whilst bashing and trimmed off)
    Preload shim in servo saver spring cup (tightened it up nicely)
    6S Lipo capable (runs at 4S when I donít feel like replacing parts)
    20m diff oil in rear
    Stock slipper locked down (or else it slips constantly)
    EC5 battery connector (I feel most confident soldering bullet connectors and thereís loads of batteries with EC5 connectors)
    Stock diff gears (including ring and pinion) taking the abuse like a champ!
    ZEEE(however many ďEísĒ) 4S lipo installed in photo (60C, 3700mah) fits under stock battery clamp with some EVA foam custom fit to snug it up

    Heís good for 8-10 feet of air before I start getting nervous about the c-hubs and steering blocks. The Teknos donít cut it in the rear at 6S but they seem to hold up in front. Going MIP and 17mm in front once I break all my spare Tekno parts.

    And no; the plastic Ultra shock caps have never once popped off! Iíve even got the aluminum caps but havenít bothered to install them because the plastic caps have been great.

    Questions? Comments? Non-sequitur stories? Ask me anything! Tell me what you think of it! Let me know if the images donít load!

    Happy bashing,
    -rb

  2. #2
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Picture work.

    Sounds like your having a blast with it!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Champion
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    Nov 2018
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    Livermore, CA
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    Very nice. The rustl4r’s chassis is deceptively roomy from the efficient use of space to mount the radio box, it’s actually easier to power up without relocating the receiver box. It’s nice to see people taking full advantage of that.

  4. #4
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    Mar 2020
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    Tbone bumper question. Did you add those white extenders to the wheelie bar?

    Quote Originally Posted by ricky.blobby View Post
    Hey yíall!

    I wanted to share ole Trusty Rusty with you. He ainít much to look at but he is rough and ready.
    Also I wanted to see if this new image hosting site works well. Was on Imgur but I donít like the upvote/downvote/comment section.





    Mods:
    Castle Creations 1515/2200kv motor
    Castle Creations Sidewinder 8th ESC
    17t pinion gear
    Traxxas 2250 steering servo
    MIP X-Duty rear driveshafts
    Tekno M6 front driveshafts
    T-Bone Racing wheelie bar
    RPM A-arms
    60wt shock oil front and rear
    Max rate (blue) springs front and rear with like all the preload shims they give you installed. Mostly in the rear.
    Proline MX28 Badlands
    17mm hexes in the rear (shattered the MIP 12mm hexes on 6S)
    Like 2/3 of the body remaining (the rest was destroyed whilst bashing and trimmed off)
    Preload shim in servo saver spring cup (tightened it up nicely)
    6S Lipo capable (runs at 4S when I donít feel like replacing parts)
    20m diff oil in rear
    Stock slipper locked down (or else it slips constantly)
    EC5 battery connector (I feel most confident soldering bullet connectors and thereís loads of batteries with EC5 connectors)
    Stock diff gears (including ring and pinion) taking the abuse like a champ!
    ZEEE(however many ďEísĒ) 4S lipo installed in photo (60C, 3700mah) fits under stock battery clamp with some EVA foam custom fit to snug it up

    Heís good for 8-10 feet of air before I start getting nervous about the c-hubs and steering blocks. The Teknos donít cut it in the rear at 6S but they seem to hold up in front. Going MIP and 17mm in front once I break all my spare Tekno parts.

    And no; the plastic Ultra shock caps have never once popped off! Iíve even got the aluminum caps but havenít bothered to install them because the plastic caps have been great.

    Questions? Comments? Non-sequitur stories? Ask me anything! Tell me what you think of it! Let me know if the images donít load!

    Happy bashing,
    -rb
    Did you add those white extenders to the wheelie bar?

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
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    Jan 2021
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    Thanks for the kind replies!

    Quote Originally Posted by palmryde@yahoo. View Post
    Did you add those white extenders to the wheelie bar?
    They actually come with the TBR wheelie bar, along with some super-long screws to fix the bar to the bumper!

  6. #6
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    Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricky.blobby View Post
    Thanks for the kind replies!



    They actually come with the TBR wheelie bar, along with some super-long screws to fix the bar to the bumper!
    I removed the stock wheelie bar due the damage caused by it to the body of other cars I have seen. I put on the slash rear bumper to prevent rear body damage. That looks like a good upgrade from stock. Loks pretty stout. Nice car

  7. #7
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    Oh yeah the stocker really chewed my body up. Had to hack it all off at the back because it was just coming apart and the tears were migrating up the body. Chopped the wing off as well because it was just standing straight up like a peacock tail.

    Thanks!

  8. #8
    RC Racer VisionSlash42's Avatar
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    Fraser Valley, British Columbia, Canada-The Wet Coast!
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    That's pretty cool, I gotta say. 6S, and the stock diffs'll take it? Huh. Overall, very impressive. I've heard that EC5s can be tricky to solder, what about you?
    Slash 2WD Vision Edition
    100+ posts, here I come!

  9. #9
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    Thanks!

    I actually took the diffs out for maintenance and the rear had some slight internal damage. The cross pin was shifting and dug a hole in the plastic housing and one of the spider gears chewed through the housing into one of the bolts. Diff was still operational though, just made a weird noise under high torque and rpm. Front diff was fine. I was not going easy on the car either. Even at 4S and these MX28s I can usually self right with just the trigger.

    For the EC5s it’s all about plenty of heat and good prep. Flux everything, tin the wire, fill the bullet connector with solder up to the weep hole and then just apply heat and dip the wire in. Remove heat and hold the wire for like ten seconds and you’re done. No need to add solder after the wire goes in the cup. I use a butane soldering iron and a fat chisel tip so I get plenty of heat. It’s called the Weller PortaSol. Nice not having a power cord, just have to be careful because there’s an exhaust port on the side of the tip that can burn the heck out of you.

    Ps- I think the hard part about EC5s is actually getting the bullets into the plastic housing. I usually just stick them in there while they’re still hot/warm and that makes it easier.
    Last edited by ricky.blobby; 02-24-2021 at 05:59 PM.

  10. #10
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    Update: replaced the front and rear diffs with XO-1 parts. Was pretty straight forward. Also did the spiral ring and pinions. Was trying out some lighter weight diff fluid in the rear (20mil to 30k) and the car went from power sliding (awesome) to traction rolling (not awesome.) Going to step the rear up incrementally to see if there’s a sweet spot somewhere in between. Want a little less sliding but not so open. Dropping 100k in today and we’ll see how that goes.

    If you plan to do the XO-1 diffs and use the heavy weight diff housings, make sure that you get the right bolts. They’re like 4mm longer. Traxxas p/n 3236.

  11. #11
    RC Racer VisionSlash42's Avatar
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    'Kay, thanks! EC5s sound like good connectors. high current cap, easy connet/disconnect, and, from what you've said, easier to solder than I previously thought. Thanks for the info.

    I've heard lots of stuff about how self-righting destroys your drivetrain, but yours seems to be holding up just fine!
    Slash 2WD Vision Edition
    100+ posts, here I come!

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Frankie Figs's Avatar
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    Nice ride! At what point were the stock driveshafts no longer working out for you?
    Rusty 4x4 aka Beater Bomb

  13. #13
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    I started breaking shafts before I ever modified the car. So the 3S batteries pretty much necessitated new driveshafts for me.

    Thanks!

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Frankie Figs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricky.blobby View Post
    I started breaking shafts before I ever modified the car. So the 3S batteries pretty much necessitated new driveshafts for me.

    Thanks!
    Wow! The stock shafts are pretty beefy too. I haven't ran mine on the 540XL yet and had every minimal time on the VXL motor. I ran it on 3S a couple times and it was a fun ride! I guess I'll see what happens with the stock driveshafts. Thanks for the reply, at least now I won't be surprised if/when I shred the stock ones lol
    Rusty 4x4 aka Beater Bomb

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