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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    X01 Diff Swap Issue

    Well long story short ive decided to put the spiral cut x01 diffs into my rustler. The front went together just fine and works how its supposed to. But the rear is what im having trouble with.

    I put everything in how its supposed to go and once the truck is together i can spin the differential. Now the first time i realised that I was putting the wrong screw in the wrong hole and the tip of the screw was like holding the diff somehow. Well i changed that, put it all back together and i cant get the differential to work how its supposed to.

    Normally I can spin one tire and the other goes the opposite direction. Well now it goes in the same direction as the other tire. And if i spin the wheel while holding the other it makes a rhythmic click. I just noticed it does it even if i don't hold the opposite tire. I can feel the click through the diff and to the other tire and it almost tries to grab the tire im not touching when the click happens.

    Im going to take it apart and look at the exploded diagram and see what's up right now. But anybody have any ideas as to what i could be doing wrong? If i figure it out before any replies ill be sure to update this thread. Thanks.

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  2. #2
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    “5382X Diff carrier support “I-bar” rounded edge down“?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by fortunespoonz View Post
    “5382X Diff carrier support “I-bar” rounded edge down“?
    Yes, noted in assembly instructions... The I-bar has two flat corners, and two rounded corners, the rounded ones need to go down (into diff cup), the cup side spider (which stick out to attach axles to.) Gets a diff shim, and THEN an x-ring/seal, ring gear side ONLY gets an x-ring, according to instructions. I went ahead and copied the other side and have had no issues. I dont think its possible. And u def. Think youre smarter than that, but, its not like you may have "forced" the spiders into the cup 90 degrees off??

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trx4newb View Post
    Yes, noted in assembly instructions... The I-bar has two flat corners, and two rounded corners, the rounded ones need to go down (into diff cup), the cup side spider (which stick out to attach axles to.) Gets a diff shim, and THEN an x-ring/seal, ring gear side ONLY gets an x-ring, according to instructions. I went ahead and copied the other side and have had no issues. I dont think its possible. And u def. Think youre smarter than that, but, its not like you may have "forced" the spiders into the cup 90 degrees off??

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    Otherwise, i HAVE had an instance where the spiders didnt all-4 mesh properly during assembly, so when i cranked down the ring gear bolts, it was like a spool, instead of a differential.

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trx4newb View Post
    Otherwise, i HAVE had an instance where the spiders didnt all-4 mesh properly during assembly, so when i cranked down the ring gear bolts, it was like a spool, instead of a differential.

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    O.g. diff. Output bearings?? Or brand new/cleaned/lubed? Those bearings take a BEATING on these trucks.

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  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fortunespoonz View Post
    “5382X Diff carrier support “I-bar” rounded edge down“?
    This could be the problem. Its 430am here right now, I have trouble sleeping, but when i get up for the day i have the diff out i just havent split it yet. Ill make sure the rounded sides are down. Thank you guys both very much, i appreciate the help.

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  7. #7
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    The rounded edge is down. I cant fit it the other way. With the diff out and holding the cup in my hand, i can spin one axle and the other spins in the opposite direction. When i put the diff in the truck and try to spin it, it does the catching thing and spins with the opposite axle.

    What is happening? Why do i need to hold the cup for the diff to work the right way?

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    The rounded edge is down. I cant fit it the other way. With the diff out and holding the cup in my hand, i can spin one axle and the other spins in the opposite direction. When i put the diff in the truck and try to spin it, it does the catching thing and spins with the opposite axle.

    What is happening? Why do i need to hold the cup for the diff to work the right way?

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    Did putting the wrong screw in wrong hole cause a piece of plastic to bend inwards and is still holding the diff somehow???

    Otherwise, grab a flashlight and try to look at the front diff-output-hub for center driveshaft....you didnt forget the screw pin that holds the drive hub onto diff, right?

    Its sounding like maybe the ring gear isnt snugged up enough to sandwhich the spider gearset together.

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  9. #9
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    I just realised that is what would happen if the differential wasnt being held by the driveshaft.

    For some reason i think the clicking has something to do with the gear that meshes with the differential.

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  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trx4newb View Post
    Did putting the wrong screw in wrong hole cause a piece of plastic to bend inwards and is still holding the diff somehow???

    Otherwise, grab a flashlight and try to look at the front diff-output-hub for center driveshaft....you didnt forget the screw pin that holds the drive hub onto diff, right?

    Its sounding like maybe the ring gear isnt snugged up enough to sandwhich the spider gearset together.

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    The plastic piece theory makes sense. Ill have to look. Im at work but when i get home im gonna figure this out.

    Im not sure what pin your talking about.

    I unscrewed the 4 screws holding the diff together. I replaced the output shafts with the little blue rings. Replaced the spider gears, diff carrier, and pin that keeps that stuff together. Then screwed the diff back together. Put the new gear that holds the other end of the slipper clutch.

    Im 99 percent sure its together right. But ill look for something thats catching.

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    The plastic piece theory makes sense. Ill have to look. Im at work but when i get home im gonna figure this out.

    Im not sure what pin your talking about.

    I unscrewed the 4 screws holding the diff together. I replaced the output shafts with the little blue rings. Replaced the spider gears, diff carrier, and pin that keeps that stuff together. Then screwed the diff back together. Put the new gear that holds the other end of the slipper clutch.

    Im 99 percent sure its together right. But ill look for something thats catching.

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    Dont forget that one side gets a shim AND BLUE RING, i put both, on both outputs. This bring the spider in-closer-together

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  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    I put both blue rings in the outputs but i didnt see any shims on the old diff gears? Is that something i should buy?

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    I put both blue rings in the outputs but i didnt see any shims on the old diff gears? Is that something i should buy?

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    The gear set should gave at least one shim, they blend right-in with the metal color of output gears. I had overlooked em my first diff rebuild because they actually stuck SO flat against the gear

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    I put both blue rings in the outputs but i didnt see any shims on the old diff gears? Is that something i should buy?

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    The regular teflon coated washers dont fit over the gear shafts, only stub axles, etc. So it MUST be a "diff shim" idk if traxxas sells em without having to buy gearset??

    Look around on floor or any shop towels used during the process!

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  15. #15
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    I just looked and theres no shims anywhere. Just the blue rings. I put it back together and it still seems like it catches one tooth or something. I can hit the throttle and itll hesitate like it locked up for a half of a second.

    I might just drive it hard and see what happens.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    I just looked and theres no shims anywhere. Just the blue rings. I put it back together and it still seems like it catches one tooth or something. I can hit the throttle and itll hesitate like it locked up for a half of a second.

    I might just drive it hard and see what happens.

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    Well when you look at the assembly instructions / diagram there's definitely a shim on only one side for our particular vehicle I suggest putting a shim on both output drive gears in order to bring the spiders tighter in towards the center of the diff and make the mesh more efficient I'm working on my front as we speak 100K fluid going in

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  17. #17
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    One more thing I noticed was a little pegs that are used to align the ring gear onto the diff cup, are very fragile and can break off the slightest stress / misalignment etc.

    Just a few minutes ago I put my diff back together and my cup is made of aluminum even still the pegs were broken off and in the gears which caused all the spider gears to lose massive amounts of teeth before I rebuilt, and I put it all back together having missed a piece stuck to the inner side of the cup, so after filling the fluid reassembling and spinning around a bunch it worked its way back into the teeth and will spin smoothly almost 360 one direction, then I can spin it back the other way approximately and only 90 to 120° before it stops so now I have to redis assemble clean my fresh now wasted 100k lube, and fish out some little rogue piece of trash that's really EFFING up my day and weekend! I cannnot STAND not being able to bash a bit every day, ESPECIALLY on weekends, as its literally ALL i have left in my life to look forward to being at home for.

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  18. #18
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trx4newb View Post
    Well when you look at the assembly instructions / diagram there's definitely a shim on only one side for our particular vehicle I suggest putting a shim on both output drive gears in order to bring the spiders tighter in towards the center of the diff and make the mesh more efficient I'm working on my front as we speak 100K fluid going in

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
    Okay im gonna do that. Id rather not just see what happens. Its expensive stuff haha. Thank you. I also use 100k. 100k in the front and 1m in the rear.

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  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    Okay im gonna do that. Id rather not just see what happens. Its expensive stuff haha. Thank you. I also use 100k. 100k in the front and 1m in the rear.

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    That's pretty thick for these diffs. 50K in mine gives quite a bit of power transfer to the opposing tire. 1M in them would almost be spooled. Guessing yours is going to push in the corners pretty bad.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Yeah it does. I've taken the rear diff out before and thats what i put in last time. Its really not terrible.

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  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    Yeah it does. I've taken the rear diff out before and thats what i put in last time. Its really not terrible.

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    "Not terrible"... that is a goal I strive for on most days!
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  22. #22
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    "Not terrible"... that is a goal I strive for on most days!
    Right. Its bad, its just not terrible.

    So there is most definitely shims on the output shafts so im gonna take it all apart again tomorrow and put those in and hopefully i should be all set. I guess im just blind.

    Is there any on the front?

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  23. #23
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    Okay the diffs are back together with the washers and the blue rubbers. And it seems to work how its supposed to. I decided against the 1m diff weight with the help of others and from past experience and filled it with 100k.

    I havent put a battery through it yet, but i have the day off tomorrow and will be sure to. I cant wait. I have a pretty high gear in there right now. 21 tooth i believe. Itll heat the vxl motor for sure but i gotta se this thing go 60.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    Okay the diffs are back together with the washers and the blue rubbers. And it seems to work how its supposed to. I decided against the 1m diff weight with the help of others and from past experience and filled it with 100k.

    I havent put a battery through it yet, but i have the day off tomorrow and will be sure to. I cant wait. I have a pretty high gear in there right now. 21 tooth i believe. Itll heat the vxl motor for sure but i gotta se this thing go 60.

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    Youll be absolutely LUCKY, to hit 58! Just saying! And for the amount of HEAT the vxl produces on STOCK gearing?! Shoot!....
    I love my HW power system on 2200kv and anywhere from 15t pinion (for big boy tires), on up to 21 even 22t pinion with 2.2 tires and 38 or 36t spur! I LITERALLY NEVER BREAK the 120-150F range. 150 is big pinion, big tires/off-road, btw.

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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trx4newb View Post
    Youll be absolutely LUCKY, to hit 58! Just saying! And for the amount of HEAT the vxl produces on STOCK gearing?! Shoot!....
    I love my HW power system on 2200kv and anywhere from 15t pinion (for big boy tires), on up to 21 even 22t pinion with 2.2 tires and 38 or 36t spur! I LITERALLY NEVER BREAK the 120-150F range. 150 is big pinion, big tires/off-road, btw.

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    I can run almost or in excess of 70mph up and down my street on 4s, for the entirety of two, 2s, 5200mah 50c batteries by Zeee....check temps (after nothing but wide open passes roughly 1/4 mi. Maybe 1/8th....) Usually with proper setup my highest temps with 48-62F ambient on motor was like 156 ONCE.

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  26. #26
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    I got a 3200kv hobbywing system for my 2wd monster slash and it stays nice and cool.

    I want to get one for my rustler too. The same system. Maybe a 2200 so i can run 4s.

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