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  1. #1
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    Building a Maxx from scratch, fairly certain I'll need help!!!

    Hi guys

    I've been running a 4S Stampede but have reached the point when I couldn't spend anymore money on it, just to get to a point where it wasn't tough enough for my poor driving.

    I have an X-Maxx which is my go to truck, but it's just too big for the yard. I have just enough room for a ramp with launch & land space, but the X-Maxx is to big & the Stampede to fragile. I've also sold on my 1/16 E-Revo, that didn't deal with the grass or uneven surfaces well enough. (That's helping fund this build!)

    So, a Maxx seems the way to go, transferring all my Stampede electrics. This will give me all the radio gear, a Max 8 ESC & 4274 motor. I've also got the stock servo from my X-Maxx. I've also manage to pick up a cheap set of Maxx diffs, so I'm well on the way. I just need to get some plastics & the assembly can start.

    Currently I'm planning on picking up a widemaxx kit since I have no arms at all & probably go steel driveshafts from the offset as well.

    No clue what to do about wheels/tires, but hopefully something cheap on eBay will pop up. 4S backflips keep popping up, are they a good fit? I don't like the idea of heavy stuff, especially since the motor weighs a shed load!

    First big question, are there any upgrade parts that are worth getting from the beginning? Since I have nothing, I don't want to buy stock parts, just to find they need swapping after a single bash! That make sense?

    Cheers everyone.

    PS - Yes I know, it'll be easier & might even be cheaper to buy a complete new Maxx!
    But... I don't have that kind of cash laying about, the wife would kill me, plus even more importantly, where's the fun in that? I enjoy the building side of the hobby.

  2. #2
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    Well I have the 4s backflips on my maxx and love them. The widemaxx kit was worth it for me as a beginner so rolling less is a good thing. I also got the widemaxx steel shafts because I crash alot and need the durability lol.

    I did notice though going with those upgrades the steering power just seemed off, so I upgraded to a 2085x servo and its very powerful and works insanely good. To be fair though if you dont do widemaxx, widemaxx steel shafts or bigger tires then you wont need a servo upgrade.

    Really comes down to how much you want to spend.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC_Noob View Post
    Well I have the 4s backflips on my maxx and love them. The widemaxx kit was worth it for me as a beginner so rolling less is a good thing. I also got the widemaxx steel shafts because I crash alot and need the durability lol.

    I did notice though going with those upgrades the steering power just seemed off, so I upgraded to a 2085x servo and its very powerful and works insanely good. To be fair though if you dont do widemaxx, widemaxx steel shafts or bigger tires then you wont need a servo upgrade.

    Really comes down to how much you want to spend.
    Thanks for the reply

    I thought I may as well go wide, since I have no A arms currently, I'll just buy the kit. Same for the shafts, I have none, so may as well go steel in the first place.
    I've got the stock servo from the X-maxx, whatever number that is, so hopefully that'll be good for starters!

    I don't really understand why the wider arms reduce the steering power. You're still only rotating the hub on the end of the arm, it's not like the longer arm is having to be moved. Or is it only noticeable when driving and forces are put onto the front end to make it harder work?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Thanks for the reply

    I thought I may as well go wide, since I have no A arms currently, I'll just buy the kit. Same for the shafts, I have none, so may as well go steel in the first place.
    I've got the stock servo from the X-maxx, whatever number that is, so hopefully that'll be good for starters!

    I don't really understand why the wider arms reduce the steering power. You're still only rotating the hub on the end of the arm, it's not like the longer arm is having to be moved. Or is it only noticeable when driving and forces are put onto the front end to make it harder work?
    I think for me it was more of a precaution when I got the 2085x servo after I upgraded to the 3.8 backflip 4s tires. I didn't know enough (still new to the hobby, let alone the maxx) if the stock servo could handle all the extra weight from the upgraded so I pulled the trigger on the 2085x.

  5. #5
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    Oh, just thought, are the 3.8 much bigger than the stock wheels? I thought they were about the same.

  6. #6
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    Gonna order some parts this afternoon, money has come through from the sale of my MERV.
    Like a kid at Christmas.

  7. #7
    RC Racer VisionSlash42's Avatar
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    Wow. This is going to be awesome. Any thoughts about 6S? I've been seeing a few threads about that.

  8. #8
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    His idea had me wondering if there was a lighter chassis for the Maxx, ive snooped around but most upgrade aluminum parts are sold out. Very curious if the aluminum parts are lighter or heavier than the plastic stock stuff. Like say the aluminum caster blocks vs the stock plastic ones.

  9. #9
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    aluminum is not really needed anywhere on the Maxx it is a tough truck as is , save you money , maybe c hubs or rear carriers but thats about it IMHO, tires add the most weight, so just don't go huge

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    aluminum is not really needed anywhere on the Maxx it is a tough truck as is , save you money , maybe c hubs or rear carriers but thats about it IMHO, tires add the most weight, so just don't go huge
    That was my exact thinking. Since I added bigger tires (which are the heaviest), what could I buy, or replace to offset that extra weight. And his idea of making a Maxx from scratch had me wondering if some of the aluminum parts (regardless of cost just for science!) were lighter than the plastic ones.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    aluminum is not really needed anywhere on the Maxx it is a tough truck as is , save you money , maybe c hubs or rear carriers but thats about it IMHO, tires add the most weight, so just don't go huge
    This is why I like the traxxas trucks. I learnt a long time ago how heavy alloy parts can get.

    I've ordered the widenaxx kit and steel shafts, plus some random bits off of ebay. When everything turns up I'll have a build and start look at what is missing.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by VisionSlash42 View Post
    Wow. This is going to be awesome. Any thoughts about 6S? I've been seeing a few threads about that.

    Sorry, missed this reply. In the first instance, probably not. Once it's up and running though, who know what's next!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Sorry, missed this reply. In the first instance, probably not. Once it's up and running though, who know what's next!
    Yea man once you build this thing you definitely gotta post some pictures! FrankenMaxx 2021! ITS ALIVE!

  14. #14
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    It'll probably end up looking like every other maxx truck out there. It'll just have a none stock motor and ESC. Lol

  15. #15
    RC Racer VisionSlash42's Avatar
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    Not if you go custom lid. ThomasP managed to fit a Stampede JConcepts body on his.

  16. #16
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    A skully body or monster mutt would be cool

  17. #17
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    Be funny if I can get the stampede body to fit. I can tell the wife it's the same truck.

  18. #18
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    Looks like I should have a lot of bits turning up today. I've purchased the widemaxx kitt & steel shafts new, plus a couple of other bits, then I've a good few bits turning up from Ebay.

    I've been having a look at the exploded views, trying to work out how things go together & have a suspicion the questions are gonna start in the day or 2 when I have time to start building! It's weird how different it seems when you have never seen an assembled truck!

  19. #19
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    So I've started to put stuff together. Front & rear assemblies are coming alone, widemaxx kit & CVD are almost fitted to the diffs now. I like the pin kit, seems much better than the stock screw in type. There's a question coming further down though, that is holding up going much further now.






    My stock X-Maxx servo has gone in, but I need to plug in the radio gear to centralise it next.
    After that I need to look at the motor mount so I can work out where the ESC is gonna go & if I can fit the receiver box I have kicking about.
    At first look at the battery tray isn't good though, it appears my Stampede 4S battery is too big.




    My first question...
    Do I need to grease these? It seems a good idea, but then won't the grease just suck up dirt & wear the joint? I can't decide what's best.




    My missing bits list is going down though...
    • Wheels
    • Shocks
    • Bumpers & Wheelie Bar
    • Pinion
    • Body shell, but I have most of the mounts ready.



    Cheers guys. Thanks for the help.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    If CVD's/bones have well sealed boots, I use grease. If not, I use white lightning chain lube and apply it after every run. Just couple drops on each joint, then it dries for next time. Leaves a wax coating on things when it dries and doesn't attract dirt.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  21. #21
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    So randomly to date, I've not run into any problems. The build is coming together. The truck seems pretty simple to assemble, if I've done it right that is. Biggest thing I've got wrong so far is the lack of wheel nuts. Just can't believe they don't come with the hubs! Then another 20 for 4 nuts! I might see in Ebay cheap rubbish nuts fit. Anyone used any non-Traxxas?
    Anyways...



    Getting close to looking at mounting the motor & ESC now. Servo from my X-Maxx is in and working, so I think that's probably the next thing to look at, try to get all the electrics into place.

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier ThatTraxxas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    So randomly to date, I've not run into any problems. The build is coming together. The truck seems pretty simple to assemble, if I've done it right that is. Biggest thing I've got wrong so far is the lack of wheel nuts. Just can't believe they don't come with the hubs! Then another 20 for 4 nuts! I might see in Ebay cheap rubbish nuts fit. Anyone used any non-Traxxas?
    Anyways...



    Getting close to looking at mounting the motor & ESC now. Servo from my X-Maxx is in and working, so I think that's probably the next thing to look at, try to get all the electrics into place.
    Nice! Coming along nicely!
    1/16 E-Revo VXL, Bandit XL-5 Just Gonna Send It!!

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Biggest thing I've got wrong so far is the lack of wheel nuts. Just can't believe they don't come with the hubs! Then another 20 for 4 nuts! I might see in Ebay cheap rubbish nuts fit. Anyone used any non-Traxxas?
    Anyways...
    Never tried anything but traxxas nuts on their hubs. I have 20 of them laying around from cutting the hubs off for the nitro revos so I could use the traxxas hex with an HPI flange nut because the hubs would get egged out from the old nitro threaded shafts.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  24. #24
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    Did you buy certain screws for this build? Im tempted to try out the rc screwz traxxas maxx stainless steel ones just to avoid rust. Im concerned though that they are heavier and i'm looking for ways to reduce the weight of the car, not add more lol.

  25. #25
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    Some of the eBay bits have come with screws, if not I've just used them from my generic stainless screw kit. There's loads of random kits out there, I stopped buying the specific truck/car kits a long time ago.
    I just check out Amazon or eBay when I'm running low.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Never tried anything but traxxas nuts on their hubs.
    I suspect they'll be a standard metric thread. Probably fine I guess, since they're so thin.

    I think for the sake of 5, I'll give the ebay junk a go, if they don't work out, I'll have to order the proper things.

  27. #27
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    Made up a mounting plate for the ESC yesterday. Found a piece of alloy from my Stampede build that was nearly big enough. There's just 2 small dents in the top where existing holes had to be cut through. Weirdly the mounting holes on the ESC didn't want to play nice, but it all went together well enough.





    Also got the motor screwed into place. There's little point trying to use the rear support, I think if anything it will end up putting more stress on things. I'll drop the plastic off of the motor mount & run a bead of silicon (Tiger Seal) between it & the motor, that should help lock it all into place & add more support for the motor.

    This does bring along pinion size, which I know exactly what I need to do, try it out & switch it up to suit, but I don't want to buy 6 different ones if I can get it somewhere near first time. This is type of ridiculous conversation going through my head & over complicating which pinion to go for...

    I'm looking at Backflip 4S wheels most likely. They seem to be kicking around quite cheaply, so seems as good a starting place as any.
    So... with those wheels being a little larger that stock, I need to drop a pinion size.
    But... the motor is a slightly slower motor than stock, but being bigger should have more power to turn those bigger wheels, so stock pinion size will get the speed back up.
    But... I'm not really interested in top speed, faster acceleration would suit me better, so smaller pinion
    But... Lower gearing will put more stress on the drive train, so maybe that's not smart either.
    But... more punch will give better flight control



    Anyway, ignoring all that pinion size stupidity, these are the current bits still needed. It feels as though it is getting longer not shorter...
    • Shocks (Ordered)
    • Bumpers & Wheelie Bar (Ordered)
    • TRA8913 - Body Support
    • Wheel Nuts
    • Wheels
    • Pinion
    • Bodyshell
    • Battery Mount - discovered my battery fits in the tray, but zero chance of using the locking bar.

  28. #28
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    I'll just leave this here... No need to modify the battery tray then...

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zeee-6000mA...4676767&sr=8-3

    Temptation!

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  29. #29
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    Lol. I'm not buying more batteries! Stop it. Still trying to fund the build!

  30. #30
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    I'm sure you have a kidney or two to sell...

    Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

  31. #31
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    Thats good looking boss! Man if I knew how to solder and do connectors I would totally shorten the wires coming from the motor to the ESC. Looking at the way you have the motor and ESC you could shave a ton and man that would look so clean. Sadly I haven't gotten to the "learn how to solder" part of the rc world.

    I would also shorten the ESC connector to the battery, im sure shortening a ton of wire off would shave off some weight too. This project of yours has my brain working in overtime of what else I could change out to shave off weight. I'm thinking maybe the battery tray cover thing and switching to straps for the lipos. Sigh! lol
    Last edited by RC_Noob; 03-02-2021 at 03:04 PM.

  32. #32
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    Yeah, I still need to look at wiring. Things may work better with the ESC rotated 180 degrees. I can't see me stripping the maxx, so I may as well deal with the wiring on a permanent basis.

    A few more bits have turned up today. I need to see what's left on the missing list next job really.
    And decide on a first pinion to try!

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    Yeah, I still need to look at wiring. Things may work better with the ESC rotated 180 degrees. I can't see me stripping the maxx, so I may as well deal with the wiring on a permanent basis.

    A few more bits have turned up today. I need to see what's left on the missing list next job really.
    And decide on a first pinion to try!
    Will follow your posts closely! Nice build there mate. Please do remember to advise Is the HW motor direct fit? If not please post pics of the modifications need to be done. Thanks mate!

  34. #34
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    I'd say run the stock size pinion. Being a larger motor, you won't need to gear down for the larger tires. You might even find that you want to gear up a tooth.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  35. #35
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    Cheers Steve, that backs up my current plan.

  36. #36
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    Sorted the battery mount out. Stole the way I sorted out the 4S Stampede.




    Next job, motor mount. That was supposed to be done already, but I had the light bulb moment on securing the battery.

  37. #37
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    That thing is coming along very nicely sir, good job!! Any chance if you know if there are any titanium spurs, or any diffs that are titanium? Your awesome projects got me into the reducing the weight of my maxx project going on lol. I heard there is a titanium screw set for the maxx but I can't seem to find it.

  38. #38
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    Just get a set of titanium screws from anywhere, does not need to be Maxx specific. They're just metric screws at the end if the day, mostly M3 and M4.
    Isn't titanium quite a soft metal? If so, I think titanium gears are unlikely. Also a very small market for anyone to produce them.

  39. #39
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    Finally got round to the motor mount. Since the rear support can't be fitted, I used the 'old skool' method of giving it a silicon bed, actually Tiger Seal as always for me!




    With the bottom plate of the motor mount system attached back the motor, you would never know the sealant is there.




    It's a tight fit, but it's not as tight as it was on the stampede. Can't wait for the receiver box to turn up now so I can tidy up the wiring.




    Quick question, what are all the lugs for on the support bar? You can see some of them on the photo above. Is there another support bar higher up or something?

  40. #40
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    Looking good boss! Great idea on the Tiger Seal to fit it, and I imagine that softens chassis slaps as well.

    Looking at that picture, are the motor connectors long enough to go directly to the ESC? That would clean up that area quite a bit I imagine.

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