I bought an X-Maxx a few weeks ago and I am loving it! I am trying to remove the front part of the chassis to fix a servo horn that I believe has broken. I am unable to remove it because of a stripped screw on the chassis. I will include a link to show which screw has been stripped out.
Does anyone have some good ideas on how to remove this screw? It is in an awkward spot since it is recessed and has the chassis top brace right above it. I have already tried a starred bit of approximately the same size. If it were in a different spot I could use a Dremel and a flathead.
So my plan is to first try superglue on the hex head and if that doesn't work use a drill extractor bit. If neither of those work I am planning to drill it out and possibly have to replace the chassis. Maybe once it is drilled out I could put some epoxy in and a new screw but that wouldn't be a permeant solution.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Not sure why my image link didn't come through in the original post.
Here it is:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/n5p3pTyMG3UvfGCA8
That’s a bad one, I’ve been there. You can try and flip the chassis over, remove drive shaft skid plate, and do the Dremel flathead groove trick on the backside of the screw. Then take a small flat head screwdriver and turn clockwise to get it loose.
After that hopefully it will be loose enough to remove the the rest of the way from normal access.
Make sure you dig out any dirt that’s in that screw head, and the best tool to use would be a
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Last edited by afreek1000; 02-25-2021 at 02:30 PM.
I haven't had much luck with the glue approach and with it recessed you cannot do the file and flathead screwdriver approach either.
The last one I had like this, I put a very small drill bit on my drill and stuck it in the hex head of the screw and unscrewed it that way... got lucky and it bit in enough to turn it.
Also for the future, you might think of getting some tools that have a hardened tip so that they put a firm pressure on the screw (assuming you stripped it out). I had bought some cheaper tools and stripped out a number of screws before I realized my sad excuse for tools were what was causing it all.
I'm on the edge of my seat on what the best tool to use would be.
Thank you for your response, that does seem like a good option.
My bad, got cut off at the end.
MIP.
Thank you for your response, on my screen it looked like your reply was cut off here:
After that hopefully it will be loose enough to remove the the rest of the way from normal access.
Make sure you dig out any dirt that’s in that screw head, and the best tool to use would be a
I appreciate your help, I like your idea. I'll keep my fingers crossed I can get it out.
Yes, sorry same thing on my end. Traxxas website has been acting weird lately.
Something like this would do you right.
https://www.amazon.com/Moores-Ideal-.../dp/B00D7DK0NY
Thank you. I'll definitely have to check those out.
I think the MIP screwdrivers are a must have with a quality RC truck to work in it, but a set of extractors it's necessary too.
Take a look at this:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...call_filtering
There's a couple of ways you can go. One way is (looking at Freek's picture), if you have enough threads of the screw protruding out from the plastic you can use a Dremel die-cutter disk to put a flathead screw driver groove at its' end. From there you can use a screw driver to get the screw out. That would be the easiest way.
The other way (looking at your picture) is, https://photos.app.goo.gl/n5p3pTyMG3UvfGCA8 use a drill bit size that will make the hex hole of the screw round, and put your work on a steel top bench.
From there, buy a cheap Philips head screw driver (that when you grind the tip of the screw driver off with a belt sander) the end of the screw driver can be pounded into the top of the screw (where you drilled to make the hex hole just barely round). Then, you put a pair of vice-grips on the handle of the screw driver to give you the leverage you need to turn the screw driver.
The trick here is, to use your belt sander to shape (little by little) the tip and the descending angle of the Philips screw driver head to where it's just a smidge bigger than your screw head's hole. That way when you pound it in, the fit (between the two) gets tighter as you pound, and the groves that are naturally in a Philip's head screw driver acts like (little grabbers) against the walls of the hole that you drilled.
Basically, what your doing here (with this second way) is, making your own Easy-Out that will fit down in that hole where your screw is, because a standard Easy-Out won't fit in that hole where your screw's at.
They do make Easy-Outs for circuit board screws (I have a set) that will fit in that hole, but to do the necessary drilling to use them (in your case)) would be way more difficult to do (without tearing up your plastic, plus they are very expensive) then my second suggestion. I've done my second suggestion many times over the years with good success...practice makes perfect, right?
P.S. Oh yeah, it's very important to use a steel bench (or a concrete block if you don't have a steel bench) to put your work on if you choose to do the second method. If you want to know the reason "why" just let me know, and I'll be glad to explain that to you as well. Good luck!
Last edited by ReglarGuy; 02-26-2021 at 06:00 AM.
Life's to short to be a sour puss.
Thank you Juanmacine & ReglarGuy I appreciate your input.