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  1. #1
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    X-Maxx 8S sloppy Loose A-Arm FIX for good!

    Hey guys! This is my first post, anyways I bought my Xmaxx 8S used about a month ago. First of all, I love the truck! It has been super reliable in every regard. I charge it, I drive it, I charge it I drive it rinse and repeat!

    Anyways, the aarms were always super loose on my truck. I could literally wiggle them
    side to side and the silver tie bar braces would just move left and right inside the bulk head area

    This is a video I found on youtube showing the problem on another persons truck. “Not my video” but it demonstrates the exact problem. The main problem is underneath our skid plates is a small flat piece of plastic. This piece of plastic holds the aluminum A-Arm braces together, and it keeps them
    from moving. Well it doesn’t do a good job at all. And it wears out quickly!


    Anyways, I ordered the Hot racing front and rear aluminum tie bars part Hot Racing XMX09M06.

    After getting the braces and installing them today, I can say 100% I am shocked how tight my swing arms are on my X-Maxx now. “SUPER TIGHT” Absolutely zero slop now. I imagine it’s gonna make a massive difference in drivability. If you own an xmaxx, I would order the front and rear immediately!

    This piece is totally hidden underneath the skidplates, and you can’t even see them once installed. So the truck practically looks stock too.

    I’m just glad I fixed this, I found zero information on google, And I really felt that I needed to post this for other people with the problem as well!


    WATCH VIDEO FIRST!! SUPER SLOPPY A-Arm play side to side!


    https://youtu.be/AErdJFXxvjE



    Pictures of part upgrade to get, that fix the problem! You can hardly see it installed. But now, these arms actually have real support!!







    Last edited by tps34433; 03-03-2021 at 01:15 AM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Welcome and glad your enjoying your Xmaxx. Get a second set of battery and a good charger that can charge at 2c and your set for all day bashing, running one while other charges. till the xmaxx breaks. I can charge up my 9700mha set in about 25-30 mins. Takes me about 45min to a hour to use the battery set up.

    Btw the tie rod pins are steel not aluminum.

    I never noticed slop in my a arms I'll have to take a look when it gets healing bench time once parts arrive. Top brace, spur gear n front oversized hub carrier.

    Let us know how they hold up. If me I'd just replace the stock 7716 part. As 6$ for a set vs. 70ish from HR. Just like the skids and bumpers support i just replace every season as they wear. As cheap parts ..

    Don't know how hard you bash your rig. But I abuse mine something fierce.... most times it just keeps asking for more.

    So I want things to be able to bend and flex. Cuz 50ft launches. Bad landings, 50ft cartwheeling. Head on smacks into solid objects.... Needs things to flex some.

    Aluminum doesn't flex, just bends n then breaks, or will break soon after if bend back. Very few places I have aluminum hop ups. Servo horn and HR diff covers. Things that won't flex, or at least shouldn't be taking forces of a crash

    To me hard to say if those HR. Tie bar pin mounts will help strengthen the bulkheads and diffs, Or just transfer the crash forces into the bulkheads, and crack them or make A-arms snap. I'm on the fence on what way it would go....

    (Btw trx HD A-arms are probably the best to get)


    So very interested in how that HR part works for you and your drive style. Yet to hear of someone on the fourms using them. Can see them being good for a speed runner to eliminate A-arms slop.

    Btw put below into google search for easy fourm searching when ya need it.

    site:https://forums.traxxas.com/ xmaxx search terms

    Bookmark the parts explosion diagrams. For quick reference on needed parts

    Get bt link module to watch motor & esc temps and or a ir gun. I've had crap cover the fans and temps rose fast... even when 40įf outside. The user set temp alarm saved me from cooking my motor.

    Happy bashing!







    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Champion
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    Cheap fix;
    Goop the hinge pin braces in place
    Has been holding up so far on 2 Xmaxx’s here
    fabricator

  4. #4
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    I use these aluminum tie bars, but for totally different reasons. I have a chronic issue of cracking my bulkheads from massive incoming impacts with the earth. They start with hairline fracture, and if not spotted early, lead to loosening of the diff carrier area in the bulkhead. This eventually leads to stripped ring & pinion gears because the tight mesh is no longer maintained on the diff assembly.

    Iíve found the metal tie bars keep the plastic bulkheads from cracking. I believe the layered technique of bulkhead, tiebar, skid plate with the 4 through screws create a nice sandwich technique that aids in the longevity of my bulkheads.

    I too am a believer in minimal aluminum on the X maxx. Plastic flex is far better than aluminum. But I believe in this situation the aluminum is justified because it adds strength to, in my case, a weak point.

    As to the stiffening of the a arms/tie bar area, I agree Iíve seen an added benefit of that area becoming more stable.

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
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    I don’t think the aluminum HR tie bars will make the truck weaker. If anything, it seems like they would reinforce the bulkhead. I had to get a dead blow and tap the new aluminum tie bar plate in to each bulk head, then I screwed them
    down. The only problem I can see this causing would certainly be, when an arm is gonna break, they’re gonna break well!

    My truck runs minimal aluminum. I’m all for plastic parts!

    Here’s how My truck is setup.

    Stock VXL8S ESC has been repasted with thermal paste “Less heat = less power consumption”
    Stock 1275KV motor is also running thermal paste under the heatsink
    RPM rear hubs, and larger bearings
    RPM front axle carriers, and larger bearings
    2085X servo, larger spring, aluminum link, aluminum servo horn
    Proline badlands beadlock belted wheels and tires
    hardened GPM steel spur gear
    hardened gpm steel pinion gear

    I’m just running the traxxas 6700 batteries, and the Traxxas dual live link charger.

    I just ordered the proline shock shafts and proline shock
    bodies. Gonna run heavier traxxas springs and my stock plastic caps.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXMAXX View Post
    Cheap fix;
    Goop the hinge pin braces in place
    Has been holding up so far on 2 Xmaxx’s here
    SHoeGoo or? Friend drilled front and rear lower hing pin braces and put one long 4mm buttonhead screw through them into the bulkheads, works great but the steel tie-bar is very hard metal (thankfully) and he said it was more work than just drilling regular steel. Haven't done mine yet and my steering is noticeably less precise than his.

    BTW, these plates are not tie-bars, those are the little steel pieces that the upper and lower inner suspension hinge pins go through, which keeps the bulkheads from breaking in half due to the a-arms leverage on the mounts. These HR aluminum plates help locate everything more solidly via the skidplate screws. Personally some thinner steel would be better as the aluminum will eventually stretch the mounting holes out and break under heavy bashing.

    I did the Kevin Talbot mod and filled the underside of both front and rear bulkheads (and hollow steering post from the underside) with JB Products plastic weld, not regular steel JBWeld. The plastic stuff literally fused to the Traxxas plastic and still has some flex compared to the steel type.
    Last edited by Natedog; 03-03-2021 at 01:01 PM.

  7. #7
    RC Champion
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    goop used here - e6000 should be sufficient
    Have seen Shoe goo release from items in the past
    fabricator

  8. #8
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    Thanks for quick reply! I've seen E6000 come off and it dries up and flakes away if left in the sun, but it's great for removable later on if need be, just on things not left out in the sunshine.

    IME ShoeGoo is great and permanent if surfaces are well cleaned (I clean with isopropyl alcohol and blue paper shop towel).

    There are 9 types of Goop, I'm assuming you used the general purpose version?
    http://eclecticproducts.com/products...oop-adhesives/

  9. #9
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    I just did the front one! Here are a few photos of the flimsy stock piece that’s already there. These arms are so solid now!! I love it! This piece should be aluminum from the factory, or maybe just thicker. The stock arm braces have nothing to grab on to at all!











    It looks like this piece provides excellent bulkhead support too. Anyways, I like things to be nice and tight and solid feeling. My arms were all so dang loose, it was driving me crazy. It just didn’t seem normal at all, I even thought something might have been wrong else where within the truck. It’s just this flimsy stock plastic support doesn’t really provide any support after all. Very happy with the upgrade. These are around $28 dollars each.
    Last edited by tps34433; 03-03-2021 at 02:51 PM.

  10. #10
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    It's like someone is watching is the forum. Ebay is now flooded with these upgrades all of a sudden.

  11. #11
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by afreek1000 View Post
    I use these aluminum tie bars, but for totally different reasons. I have a chronic issue of cracking my bulkheads from massive incoming impacts with the earth. They start with hairline fracture, and if not spotted early, lead to loosening of the diff carrier area in the bulkhead. This eventually leads to stripped ring & pinion gears because the tight mesh is no longer maintained on the diff assembly.

    Iíve found the metal tie bars keep the plastic bulkheads from cracking. I believe the layered technique of bulkhead, tiebar, skid plate with the 4 through screws create a nice sandwich technique that aids in the longevity of my bulkheads.

    I too am a believer in minimal aluminum on the X maxx. Plastic flex is far better than aluminum. But I believe in this situation the aluminum is justified because it adds strength to, in my case, a weak point.

    As to the stiffening of the a arms/tie bar area, I agree Iíve seen an added benefit of that area becoming more stable.
    Glad to hear that the HR plates are working for you.

    Guessing no increased breakage on a arms?

    Glad to hear it's helping to protect the bulk heads for you.


    Hr diff covers seem to be helping me on bulkhead / diff ring gear destruction.


    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tps34433 View Post
    I just did the front one! Here are a few photos of the flimsy stock piece that’s already there. These arms are so solid now!! I love it! This piece should be aluminum from the factory, or maybe just thicker. The stock arm braces have nothing to grab on to at all!











    It looks like this piece provides excellent bulkhead support too. Anyways, I like things to be nice and tight and solid feeling. My arms were all so dang loose, it was driving me crazy. It just didn’t seem normal at all, I even thought something might have been wrong else where within the truck. It’s just this flimsy stock plastic support doesn’t really provide any support after all. Very happy with the upgrade. These are around $28 dollars each.
    Looks very good mate.

  13. #13
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    I don’t beat my Xmaxx hard at all. I just drive it on flat ground 99% of the time. I may jump the ditch every now and then, but my truck never gets higher than about 3ft lol.

    I just prefer things to be nice and tight. My steering had slop too, I replaced the entire steering bellcrank assembly for like $8 dollars. And that also made a huge difference.

    Now with these arm braces, and new steering assembly, this xmaxx tracks super STRAIGHT on hard acceleration or speed runs!!

  14. #14
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    I just got done driving around my front yard. The X-Maxx felt like a totally different machine. I’ve never been able to slide the rear end in my yard like I was today. “The grass is very short” and my proline badlands always forced the truck around instead of the other way around. I don’t really know how else to explain it. The truck went exactly where I wanted it to go, but I could also get it to spin around. The arms are locked to the chassis now. “Very stiff” the suspension even worked differently. It literally feels like a totally different Xmaxx 8S guys!

    I could go fast turn hard, accelerate and my truck would slide the rear end around and dart forward.

    I run a locked rear axle. I use a Hot racing rear spool, instead of an open diff, I run a live axle in the rear only. I feel like a lot of momentum was getting sent in to the slop of the arms during hard turns. As my Aarms would literally just twist and flex around in the hinge pin area near the bulkhead

    The truck feels so different, that’s all I can really say about it.

    I was expecting nothing to really change when driving after getting these aluminum braces.

  15. #15
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    Glad the HR front and rear aluminum tie bars part Hot Racing XMX09M06 are working for you! Might have to try these, because mine definitely is kinda wandering and makes lining up the jumps more difficult!

    Anymore bashing on it since the other day?

  16. #16
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    I think I seen some dirt on your truck.

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