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Thread: Questions..

  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    Question Questions..

    Hi Guys,

    I am buying part for my monster slash conversion, and I just had a few things I wanted to get yall's opinion on.

    Which is better?

    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/6780 or https://traxxas.com/products/parts/6780A
    one has a metal cover and the other one is plastic.

    Also, Is this a good servo for a monster slash? Do you guys have any better recommendations? Is it overkill?
    https://www.amazon.com/Savox-SW-1210...4825883&sr=8-1
    Last edited by Invincibl; 03-04-2021 at 10:11 AM.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
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    6780 hands down - the 6780A is like the discount version of the 6780.

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
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    The servo is a bit overkill but a good product. You can get a lot cheaper ones...you just want some torque (250 or so) to handle large wheels.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
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    I can't get the Amazon link to work, but regardless, it's better to have more torque and rarely need it, then to have barely enough and lack responsiveness. As far as budget servos goes, the best I've had as far as torque, speed and durability is the powerhd 23kg. Got one that's had at least 4 years of abuse. It's the only servo under 100 bucks (cost 35 then) thats lasted for me.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    Power HD has great servos for the price:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-HD-LW...oAAOSwH21fO23d
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    What about this one?
    https://www.amazon.com/Power-HD-WP-2...31668894&psc=1

    Also, is there a difference in the performance of those center diffs? the only difference seems to be the metal casing...

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier GotNoRice's Avatar
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    If you are going to go with the center diff, then go with the version with the metal case for sure.

    But don't assume that the Center Diff is automatically an upgrade over the Slipper Clutch. They are different more than they are better or worse than each other. Traditionally the Center Diff has been more useful for racing whereas the Slipper Clutch is better for bashing or just having fun. That hasn't really changed.

    When you hit the throttle hard to the point where the front tires will lift off the ground, the Center Diff will transfer more power to the front tires (instead of the rear tires) which then brings the front tires back down. That's good for keeping your tires on the ground but I personally prefer keeping the power on the rear tires. I want to be able to wheelie if I want to, and I don't need anything other than my finger on the throttle to help control the torque.

    Also, with the center diff, when it sends that power to the front tires, they can have a tendency to diff out (spin very quickly during the short period that they are off the ground). The result is that the front-end of the hoss tends to bounce a bit. A repeating cycle where the front tires lift slightly off the ground, diff-out, hit the ground again while spinning very fast, rinse and repeat. When the front tires hit the ground while they are spinning fast (when they diff out), it puts a lot of stress on the tires. You are already seeing a trend of the Sledgehammer 2.8 tires (stock Hoss tires) showing early failures and this is likely one of the main reasons.

  8. #8
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by GotNoRice View Post
    If you are going to go with the center diff, then go with the version with the metal case for sure.

    But don't assume that the Center Diff is automatically an upgrade over the Slipper Clutch. They are different more than they are better or worse than each other. Traditionally the Center Diff has been more useful for racing whereas the Slipper Clutch is better for bashing or just having fun. That hasn't really changed.

    When you hit the throttle hard to the point where the front tires will lift off the ground, the Center Diff will transfer more power to the front tires (instead of the rear tires) which then brings the front tires back down. That's good for keeping your tires on the ground but I personally prefer keeping the power on the rear tires. I want to be able to wheelie if I want to, and I don't need anything other than my finger on the throttle to help control the torque.

    Also, with the center diff, when it sends that power to the front tires, they can have a tendency to diff out (spin very quickly during the short period that they are off the ground). The result is that the front-end of the hoss tends to bounce a bit. A repeating cycle where the front tires lift slightly off the ground, diff-out, hit the ground again while spinning very fast, rinse and repeat. When the front tires hit the ground while they are spinning fast (when they diff out), it puts a lot of stress on the tires. You are already seeing a trend of the Sledgehammer 2.8 tires (stock Hoss tires) showing early failures and this is likely one of the main reasons.
    I am thinking Center Diff because then I should be able to corner better, because I am putting an 8th scale powertrain in the car. I am not personally a fan of giant wheelies, so that is another reason for the diff. In another thread I made, people said that thicker fluid will allow me to wheelie if i want but it will still handle decently. Is there a way to fix the Wheel bouncing?

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
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    Quote Originally Posted by GotNoRice View Post
    If you are going to go with the center diff, then go with the version with the metal case for sure.

    But don't assume that the Center Diff is automatically an upgrade over the Slipper Clutch. They are different more than they are better or worse than each other. Traditionally the Center Diff has been more useful for racing whereas the Slipper Clutch is better for bashing or just having fun. That hasn't really changed.

    When you hit the throttle hard to the point where the front tires will lift off the ground, the Center Diff will transfer more power to the front tires (instead of the rear tires) which then brings the front tires back down. That's good for keeping your tires on the ground but I personally prefer keeping the power on the rear tires. I want to be able to wheelie if I want to, and I don't need anything other than my finger on the throttle to help control the torque.

    Also, with the center diff, when it sends that power to the front tires, they can have a tendency to diff out (spin very quickly during the short period that they are off the ground). The result is that the front-end of the hoss tends to bounce a bit. A repeating cycle where the front tires lift slightly off the ground, diff-out, hit the ground again while spinning very fast, rinse and repeat. When the front tires hit the ground while they are spinning fast (when they diff out), it puts a lot of stress on the tires. You are already seeing a trend of the Sledgehammer 2.8 tires (stock Hoss tires) showing early failures and this is likely one of the main reasons.
    I mean if you don’t tune the center diff it will do this. Changing the diff fluid weight will make it where nothing leaves the ground(light weights) all the way up to the same as a slipper clutch (thick fluid). So basically a center diff can do everything a slipper clutch can do and much more. I guess that’s not technically true... it cannot squeal like one.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dcuda69's Avatar
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    I 2nd(or 3rd or 4th) the Power HD servos. I have the 23kg in my Slash with 2.8 Trenchers....whips them around like nothing! Huge upgrade over stock! Hard to beat at $40
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

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